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Show i WJitterest to Lady"jadmi ; : : ; : SMALL AKTICLES OF ,( SUMMER DRESS. I' " - 1 The Deep, Low Sailor Collar, With ; Nautical Lacings, Is the Fashion- jr able Thing How to Make a Boa i New and Simple Neck Arrange- : ments That Can Be Made at Small j Cost By the Home Woman Re- modeling Summer Dresses. Faris, July 10. The summer resorts are suffering terribly from the effects of the Exposition: and never was the seaside sea-side reason so dull. In town, on the other hand, all is life; anil "for once Parisians Pa-risians are treated to the spectacle of a French aristocrat home in the summer time. People who never in their existence ex-istence saw the Bois in mid-summer are now daily driving through -its broad avenues and drinking in the weather as gaily as though they had lied to the north instead of remaining in town through the heated term. Paris is enjoying itseif immensely. The Exposition is a success, though by lie means the grand affair of Chicago Y ith true French thrift the city fathers have taken advantage of the Exposition to erect -buildings which shall stand permanently along the Seine, and have at the same time, taken the opportunity opportu-nity to convert structures that were poor paying properties into Exposition buildings, thus making money in umx- pec ted ways. The French matrons, in spite of their ; frivolity and wicked chic, are thrifty and never was this shown to a greater! extent than the present season. Glad of j an opportunity to remain at home and ! thus save the price of exorbitant sum- ! mer hoard, thf-y are wearing their old i clothes and renovating last season's i gai ments with a vigor and a thoroughness thorough-ness which are highly commendable, as well as most satisfactory. '' A REMODELED GOWX. If you doubt that a French woman can do wonders with a garment of last season you have only to examine a few that have been through her Angers. Under Un-der her careful supervision the inexpensive inex-pensive little seamstress can work such miracles that you would never recognize recog-nize the former state. A well-to-do young matron of the 1 Foubourg Ft. Germaine. that Murray Hill of Taris, showed me a gown which at first sight looked as though it were ! just arrived from one of the smart sh-ps of the Boulevard Haussmann. Ih- stinctively I turned the waist to look at the name upon the band. But there was no name: neither had the garment the matron told me anything to recommend rec-ommend it in the nature of expense. Last season this dress was a, cream colored cashmere, with round waist, slightly bagging in front. The skirt had a habit back, one of those plain hacks which a year ago were so fashionable. AVell, in making it over the young j matron had removed the collar and j stock entirely; and in their place had' f attached a very deep sailor collar of butcher's linen embroidered in blue silk. The front was continued in two long stoles, which crossed upon the bust and were drawn under the- belt, "so as to " hang nearly to the bottom of the skirt. The ends were scalloped and very neatly neat-ly embroidered in blue. The collar laced in front with blue silk cords which were latticed over tiny buttons. The neck was low and square the very newest Paris style. To make the transposition more com plete the entire surface of the goods had been striped with narrow black satin ribbons, put on in such-a way as to form points in the front and in the back. The waist was striped in the same way. Small cuffs of the linen embroidered em-broidered in blue set off the wrists. The habit back, no longer in fashion, was split right in the middle, and over the opening thus made was set a large double box plait of the cream goods, thus making the skirt decidedly fashionable fash-ionable in cut. : A rough straw in natural color was trimmed with a black velvet band; and at one side there was an immense bow of black velvet, dotted with blue chenille. che-nille. BOLERO DESIGNS. The bolero designs are more and more numerous. The smallest one was recently re-cently worn over a brown foulard stamped upon a cream ground. This little bolero was made of batiste and lace cunningly used in combination and fitted to the figure by shirrings at top and bottom. It was a. front bolero only, find was held by narrow black velvet straps over the shoulders. Narrow black satin ribbons are extensively ex-tensively used, and with good results. A" charming arrangement requires yards and yards of ribbon. The belt, w hich consists of narrow bands of the i sobon, is so arranged as to be attached io a broad satin piece in the middle of the back. This is formed by covering a piece of well-boned crinoline with black satin.' The strip, which is not more than three inches wide, is placed up and down in the middle of the back; and to each side of it the ribbons rib-bons are attached. Four or five ribbons start in this way in the middle of the back, and are brought around to the .front, where they are tied in a bow with long ends, which hang to the ground. Narrow black ribbons are attached to the back of the hat and are crossed; after which they are brought around to the front and -tied under the chin. The bow is fastened by a brooch in good old-fashioned style. Skirt yokes are tucked and shirred and the goods are trimmed in other ways. Unless one is very full around the hips the trimmed yoke is to be recommended, but for embonpoint it should be avoided. Tulle of all colors can be used for the boa. The latest design is the snake boa, which is very thick at one end and tapering at the other. To give these boas foundation there is a lining similar to the lining of a muff over w hich the material is shirred. To fashion such a lining a tiny roll of cotton batting is prepared until it is of equal thickness, except at one end, where it is tightly sewed to give it the desired point. A black silk case is slipped over the boa, reminding one of the way a bolster is slipped into its case. The boa is now ready for its oueside covering, which may bevf any selected material, with a preference always for black tulle of black chiffon. NEW GARNITURES. The most beautiful boas are of black tulle with gold dots put on in such a j way ns to require a very close thick shirring. Each division is tied with a tiny black" satin ribbon, with ends snipped off very short. ( harming garnitures are fashioned of white chiffon and lace. These are lovely love-ly upon a new garment and of so transforming trans-forming a nature upon an old one. that you would scarcely recognize the gown. They make a chiffonette, scarcely coarser than chiffon, yet quite wiry in nature, and of a sort that will liot wilt in the dampness. The very newest fischu, of this chiffon, chif-fon, is gathered around the shoulders and brought in a big soft fold to the front where it is tied in a knot. Below this the ends disappear underneath the lapels of the vest, but reappear below the waist line, where they hang in Jong, full streamers, very long and trimmed upon the ends with lace. The fischu is lace -trimmed and very soft and pretty. The lace undersleeve is seen in many quaint ways. As a revival it is extremely ex-tremely popular and is used in the form of a gathered cuff extending below the sleeve of the gown. French thrift here again finds expression. ex-pression. A gown made for an American Ameri-can woman had sleeves only a little below the elbow, and of a decidedly bell shape. When the American woman wo-man saw it she exclaimed: "But my arms are thin; I do not like such short sleeves." "Then wear the lace sleeve, madame," responded the couturiere. "The dress sleeve is built so as to be worn either short or long." Some of the newest undersleeves are entirely of lace; others are lawn with a tiny lace edging; and very pretty this edge is, with its soft fullness arranged to set off the hand. And in this connection it may be remarked re-marked that styles: in sleeves are changing constantly. At one minute they are very tight: again they are full with many alternate rows of insertion. The perfectly plain sleeve is not the popular one, and the more the design runs toward trimming the more fashionable fash-ionable it is. THE SAILOR HAT. While the tide of travel is toward Paris, and not away from It. still there are many who are escaping to the cooler cool-er countries. Russia, especially, is enjoying en-joying its fashionable season. The czar and czarina are holding receptions, and many Americans are being received. The court dress is by no means so rigidly prescribed as the English presentation pre-sentation gown, but is none the less gowns are being sent north, and whole cargoes of pretty things for the neck are sent for the Russian tailors, who are severe in their styles and lacking in taste, in the soft fluffy ornaments of which the Taris modistes are so fond. DISCONTENTED WOMEN. BY LAURA JEAN LIBBET. Of all women who have woes, real or imaginary, discontented women are the least to be pitied, for they bring about their own troubles, and nurse them much more zealously than the blessings that strew, their paths. I mi mi" "" I JP YOIT WOULD BE PERFECTLY 52?ij5nG STTO'''' ? " CARRY A LARGE ROSE, WITH RAILING STLM. RTWAIST. I RED AND GREEN OF TOUR LATEST SUM.mv The discontented woman lives in open rebellion with God. He has a certain niche in life for each human being whom He creates to fill. Do His creatures crea-tures know better than He the path that is fittest for their feet to travel? "A contented mind is indeed a continual contin-ual feast" and there is a world of truth, too, in the words: Sour discontent that quarrels with our fate May give fresh smart, but not the old abate; The uneasy passions' disingenuous wit The ill reveals, but hides the benefit. If the chance of birth has given you as your portion poverty instead of wealth, of luxurious idleness, do not rail at fate,, but accept the situation Avith a cheery. heart, firm in the faith that God will oetter your situation if He finds you worthy of advancement. They who have so little knowledge of human nature as to seek happiness by changing anythi but their own dispositions will wasie their lives in fruitless efforts and multiply the causes for discontent. The society woman is discontented because a newer and stronger power than herself has dawned on the social world. The housewife is discontented because be-cause her neighbor has a better furnished fur-nished home than her's. The seamstress, because her work is so arduous. The saleslady, because she feels within with-in her the knowledge that she could fill with grace a higher position on life's plane, were she not kept down by the environments of an unkind fate. The brain toiler, because so many, seemingly less worthy of the world's applause and recognition, pass her by on the road to fame. And last, but by no means least, the pretty housemaid, because he Lord does not hurry some man along to marry mar-ry her, though she would jump from the frying pan into the fire with both ! eyes open. The benefits of good home, liberal wages, kind and appreciative people, who would be true friends if sickness or death threatened; all this is forgotten in the discontent over the Lord's tardiness in not sending around a man. All this is very wrong, .my dears. You must overcome that discontented feeling; feel-ing; conquer it with an iron will and a firm resolve. .Strive to do your best, and cheerfully, cheerful-ly, in whatever walk of life you may be placed, and leave God to work out the rest for you as He wills. Rest assured He will choose a better future for you than you could select, knowing' what you will have to pass through in the years that are to come. Be ambitious for wise advancement. In every move take a step forward, never take a step backward. Never leap eagerly out of a safe certainty cer-tainty into an uncertainty. Steer your bark on life's ocean carefully care-fully past the places where the shoals and jagged rocks lie, if you would not be shipwrecked She hath a weary, pilgrimage As through the world she wends, If on each stage from youth to age Grim discontent attends. I would say most earnestly to the discontented dis-contented woman take care, beware my dear, lest the Lord rebukes you by sending you far greater troubles to contend con-tend with than you have now. Be cheery, and. hope, no matter how dreary your surroundings. There is no road so long but there is an end to it. QUIET HOUR CHATS, BY LAURA JEAN LIBBY. The Oldest Girl's Beau. One letter reaches me today which will be read with deep interest by many families where there are a number of daughters. Space allows only a faint outline as to the import of it, which is as follows: My dear little correspondent is only 17. She has a sister two years her senior, who has a handsome debonair beau. A few evenings since the beau called unexpectedly, and the little sister was sent into the parlor to entertain him .while his sweetheart made a hasty toilet toi-let up in her room. Sweet seventeen Seated herself thoughtlessly upon a sofa, and straightway straight-way the fickle beau seated himself beside be-side her and (what was still worse threw his arms suddenly about her and kissed her. , Now, what shall she do? she asks me. She fears and yet wishes to tell iher sister, and her defer little worried heart is torn with conflicting emotions. ' Do not hesitate to make a clean breast of the affair to your sister, my dear. You should have resented spiritedly spirit-edly tha unwarranted libertyi No man of true honor or manly dignity dig-nity would attempt to offer a caress to any young woman unless they were formally betrothed. Many young men will pooh-pooh this statement, but down deep in their hearts they must acknowledge that it is true. The young man's action certainly showed a lack of respect for your elder sister's feelings in the matter. I do not know what business, anyhow, any-how, a younger sister has in entertaining entertain-ing an elder sister's male company. If he is too fidgety to put in the time of her absence calmly and patiently, let an evening paper be sent in for him to peruse. Place etchings, poems, anything within with-in his reach save a lovely younger sister. sis-ter. LAURA JEAN LIBBEY. COLLEGE GIRL AND COLLEGE WOMAN Intel'ectual Training is Valuable as It Helps in the Trivial Cares and " Crosses of Daily Life. The college woman is not an over-educated over-educated being whose mind has been crammed at the expense of her body; she is an all-around person, whose de- j velopment has enabled her to grasp opportunities, to fill responsible situations, situa-tions, and to do her duty in society and the home. One can nowhere else find such specimens speci-mens of girlhood at its beautiful best as in our colleges. The graduates of this summer are neither deficient in physical training- nor indifferent to domesticity. They are a splendidly vital set of young women, athletic, vigorous and blooming; bloom-ing; they have good appetites, good digestion and firm muscles; they know how to stand, to sit, to walk and to breathe, as wel las how to study. They are women who have been finely equipped equip-ped by exercise in the gymnasiums and in the open air, and are quite ready for the next step in life, whatever it may be. Their work in mathematics and languages, lan-guages, in history and belles lettres, has not disaualified them for presiding in a good man's home as his wife and the mother of his children, while it has by its thorough mental discipline fitted THE LOW NECK IS FASHIONABLE, AND IS SEEN TO BEST ADVANTAGE ADVAN-TAGE IN THE FLAT SAILOR COLLAR, CUT SO AS TO LIB UPON THE GOWN. WITHOUT A WRINKLE FRONT OR BACK. them to be his equal comrade on the road . and his helper in shadow and sunshine alike. A great deal of nonsense is always afloat, about the difficulty of understanding under-standing and performing housework, cooking, laundry work and the rest of the details which belong to the administration admin-istration of a home. As a rule there is nothing occult about domestic work; not a thing which any clever girl cannot can-not master in six weeks, if she gives her mind to it, and a well-trained college col-lege girl has a bright mind to give. An intellectual training and the more profound and thorough it is the better is valuable chiefly In that it helps in little daily duties, the trivial round, the common task. And if this is true, the argument holds in the larger things. A woman will be a better mother for being an all-around, well-taught, well-taught, well-trained woman, physically, spiritually and intellectually. The least successful mothers are the mothers doubly handicapped by poverty pov-erty and ignorance. They not only do not know hygienic laws, but scorn the verv mention of them in connection with the care of infants, while those of their children who survive infantile perils scramble into adolenscence as best they may, and owe their escape from illness, sin and stain less to their mothers than to society and to God. College training in its symmetry, its thoroughness and , its fidelity to the highest standards, is directly and indirectly indi-rectly the best training a woman can receive for -wifehood and motherhood. But it also fits her to adorn any place in life to which God calls her, and prepares pre-pares her to be a happy and useful spinster if that is His appointment. Fathers and mothers are equally responsible re-sponsible for the upbringing of their children and should equally share in the carrying on of the home.- A child is best educated who is subject to the moulding influence of both parents working together in the harmony of love, to each other and to their offspring. off-spring. In the ideal marriage and there are many such the husband and wife have a thousand blessed things in common, and there is not drawn a hard-and-fast line, on one side of which the man stands intrenched in reason, and on the other of which the woman kneels pleading plead-ing for affection. Tennyson summed up the matter in the closing scene of "The Princess' when he-said: ' ,r "Love's dearest bond is this Nit like to like, but like in difference;-Yet difference;-Yet in the long years liker must they grow, The man be more of woman, she o' ' man, Like perfect music into noble words." There-is a certain chivalrous intention' in the desire-i to save? wornen from the hardships of life. But these hardships must be borne. They are her share and she does not shrink from tnam. Mm), BLACK VELVET AND BLACK SILK RIBBONS ARE USED IN TRIMMING TRIM-MING SKIRTS AND BODICES; EVEN THE LARGE SUMMER HATS ARE TIED WITH THESE RU330NS. S hi T ADY RANDOLPH CHURCHILL, ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS OF LIVING LIV-ING MERICN WOMEN, FROM HER LATEST AND BEST PHOTO- . GRAPH, TAKEN JUST AFTER HER RETURN FROM THE CAPE. SHE WAS TO MARRY YOUNG LIEUTENANT WEST-RON . OF HER : GREAT RIVAL IN THE SOCIAL SET OF ENGLAND WHEN HE WAS TAKEN SERIOUSLY ILL.. |