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Show The Frock and Its Trimming New York, October 5. Winter fashions have been fully settled set-tled upon and it is gratifying to say that for many a season, if ever, they have not been as attractive as they are this year. There is a charming variety. Fabrics are rich both in quality qual-ity and coloring, trimmings are artistic, artis-tic, and designs are simplicity itself. The simple serge and gabardine frocks, so much favored for all daytime day-time occasions, are trimmed effectively effective-ly with braid, designs in soutache, Hercules, Her-cules, and novelty braidings; but the touches that render them distinctive are the curious color notes that are being introduced for contrast on many of the smart new French models. IP Braid Trimmed Check Costume. , Pink silk embroidery Is orten seen ' on frocks of dark iblue serge, and a I dull reseda wool embroidery is unusu- ally smart on dark blue: this wool em-I em-I broidery is one of the new notions of the winter; it appears on collars, j cuffs, girdles, and trimming bands of 1 frocks, coats, and blouses. Heavy wool i worked out in a rib effect to imitate ! wide Hercules braid, is a detail of many of the imported serge and gab-) gab-) ardine dresses. The various conven-H conven-H rtPiiritid nQMitaiffha pftttapan on foundation of net or chiffon, often i edged with a band of a flat silk braid I or an edge of fur, is much in vogue i for trimming the more dressy frocks; the wide -braids, in numberless attractive attrac-tive designs, are ipopular as well. The , standing soutache -designs are favored for yokes and chemisettes and for the half ibelts so much a feature of the smart ipanel Princess dress. The braids are often used for an entire panel or yoke on a skirt; also for cuffs, and the standing band collars which appear on so many of these cloth dresses. Another quaint and ibecoming detail of these dark cloth dresses is the collar. col-lar. Many of the plain redlngote serge gowns are made with single or double cape collars. Colored collars of all descriptions are 'being worn; turnover collars of colored velvet add a smart touch to the choker of the simple dress, and the idea of the colored col-ored chemisettes of the summer is being carried out for winter in failles and brocades, striped and figured velvets. vel-vets. Chemisettes of ipale pink faille, made with high, unlined, unboned collars, col-lars, buttoning at the side and wrinkling wrink-ling about the throat like a mousque-taire mousque-taire glove, are worn with gowns of serge or velvet. The neckline of the dress is usually rounded in an old-fashioned old-fashioned curve and finished with a straight iband of the material. At one of the fall openings In Paris a chiffon afternoon frock was trimmed with wide, heavy Hercules braid; following fol-lowing this idea comes a frock of serge trimmed with soutached chiffon. Among the button novelties, iboth for service and for trimming purposes, pur-poses, there is a large gold button, patterned pat-terned after the plain, four-holed porcelain por-celain underwear ibutton; another is an acorn ibutton of "brilliants. Skirts are Ibeing trimmed considerably consider-ably this winter; and there is a marked use of velvet and cloth, com- Redingote of Serge and Satin. ' mWmmmmmmmammmmmmm kKf '', i 'S p s$&JjL M. E. MULVEY Candidate for City Commissioner bined, and of velvet chiffon, and velvet and faille. ,. of the skirts are ibanded with velvet, wide and narrow. nar-row. Some of the prettiest and smartest smart-est notions along this line are the contrasting con-trasting facings. Early last spring Paquin introduced the idea in a chic little afternoon dress of dark blue taffeta; taf-feta; it is now being applied to serge and cloth frocks. Many of the strictly strict-ly tailored dresses of serge, gabardine, gabar-dine, or ibroadcloth, show these ibright colored facings; the facing generally comes down and finishes the lower edge of. the skirt with a narrow piping pip-ing of the color. Blue gowns are faced with rose, red, old gold, and black velvet; vel-vet; the effect is wonderfully attractive attrac-tive and harmonious. One of the smart innovations of the season is the three-quarter coat of leather, trimmed with fur and velvet. Paquin introduced this at her recent opening and also introduced leather as a trimming for suits and frocks. Perhaps the most pleasing thing about the winter trimmings is the touch of fur which appears on many of the indoor costumes and most of the out-of-door suits and frocks. The tight, little choker collars of one of the short haired pelts, beaver, nutria, or that smart Russian krimmer, are decidedly) chic and most becoming. These collars are ibeing worn with suits and with the one-ipiece dresses; generally they are accompanied with a muff, as round as a -ball and strongly suggestive of Grandmother's day. Wide cape collars of fur closed under the chin with a stiff little bow of taffeta or moire ribbon are smart, too, with these small muffs. |
