Show sleeves 01 are A T long neckline Is s H high ig h the mode lias has never known ft season in which careful selection and correct guidance were ua lis essential as aa they ure bic this autumn asserts a parts fashion writer in the new york tribune Trl bune the paris couturier appie oppre elating dating tho the strong attractions of oe the afie simple styles of recent blons Bu ons and recognizing at the same bamo time nil all insistent undercurrent which demanded radical changes has timidly compromised the question and offered a little of each nearly every fall collection there are a few notable notable excel lions has adhered to io the straight and slender modo mode and lioa has placated its cow con science by introducing in addition new fashion types such as the anti other period effects tho the fen dentures tures which are definitely certain to achieve a permanent place in full fail and winter fashions are the high neckline the short skirt long elonves elo yves the tunic and the ensemble details of the important paris exhibitions follow lanvin jeanne collection Is distan gulshen by exquisite workmanship a wealth of detail and a clever combination of color and material she calls upon several periods for her inspiration there are tho the long glietz with full lowing flowing skirts of tho the louis XV period the be robes do de style of the 1 early nineteenth century and medieval sleeves and tunics tunica which are eclen side by side with gowns that are reminiscent of if tho the venetian eighteenth century the persian influence la Is apparent in some of the embroideries and color schemes hots are arc like Illner vasi helmet or of russian inspiration or else little tamo tam o shan that recall the cap worn by borneo in ali the e couteau presentation ot of romeo et jullette juliette nearly an fn nil the evening gowns are robes do style with immensely full skirts touching the ground taffetas Taff fettis tulle and satin are their principal materials there Is less leas use of df ottoman titan than in most other collections coats are made m a de of 0 fine n 0 woolen w b 0 1 ln fabrics f a brics with A clever use of af several kinds bt bf fur worked into a mosaic pattern of interlaced ter laced diamond motifs or zigzags zig notably in white rabbit seal mus guntli and nutria these form the collar and cuts cuffs and border the lining in of a wrap and sometimes trim a dress coat sleeves are capacious and often have a sort of melon shape rounded from the elbow to tho the wrist and adorned with nu an pat IN ile black velvet frock battles Belt lesa featuring circular flounce floun oe tight sleeves torn tern of fur flat squirrel or gazelle in cut they are either cither straight sacks sack wrapping round the figure or else fitted in slightly at the waist with a wide flare to tho the hem in the latter case they are finished with a high fur collar gauntlet cuffs of fur callot callot collot favors the straight glit una for tallar mades and morning frocks and also for sheath evening gowns which are generally made of tulle heavily embroidered with beads there Is ho however vever much of the godet movement in this collection and great emphasis la Is wd laid on fullness and ornamentation na rift in tho the front while the back Is quite plain A new movement that Is repeated in various forms and in many models ls Is a wide crossover cross over ever drapery in front this may take the form of enormous kimono cuffs that tire ire folded over each cadi other or else laid side by side sometimes this Is done with wide stole draperies in the front or else wide naps flaps may be sewed slanting just behind the lie sleeve and brought over to the front in a similar manner the draperies which are tr traditional adit ional with callot are very much to tho fore this autumn site she still favors the wide band oi material draped round the hit hips 8 with a cascade arrange arrangement mW at the side or center f rout front very wide filp belts both in ili antin and len genther ther aro are a f feature 0 of t the to collection in the latter case they arb are finished with wide buckles while in the former they are tied in a knot or how bow at the trout front very wide ido wing ieng sleeves that give a n appearance are seen on many dresses dressea that are obviously for bjore conventional wear they aro are alao used on afternoon coats in which caso case they are embroidered or are of dl i 0 satin frock leopard skin bands trim flare tunic circular cuffs a material to the rest of the coat capes are made in every conceio conce iv able material and for every purpose in tweed they tire collared and edged with fur such as gazelle squirrel and the flat varieties of hare and andrut cut la in a wide circular movement that Is practical for traveling in velvet and cloth they are trimmed with more costly furs and the venetian collar movement Is often used there la is no doubt that callot considers the cape an important item of the winter wardrobe genuine spanish influence makes itself felt in this collection there to la a black lace dress edged with fringe i draped over one shoulder with a bunch of brilliant flowers worn over a red satin eaten sheath that might have come straight from seville and there are endI endless jess tassels cassels decorating the drees which also give a spanish atmosphere worth worth la Is enthusiastically adopting the exceedingly short skirt this season ills his tailored frocks and suits aro are almost 17 inches from the ground and the afternoon and evening gowns at least 14 or 15 inches ile he has two silhouettes the straight line and that with a circular flare at t the he sides in a few instances tunics tunica and evening gowns are circular all round but without any excess of f fullness ull there are two types of tailor made suits one features fea turea a short coat to the hips fitting below the waist and Is developed in mens wear sui sul tings plaids or kasha most of them have fur collar and cuffs and are worn with crepe do de chine blouses the other type of tailored si suit ailt has a three quarter length coat often with a flare movement tit at the sides and Is made chiefly in vegetable silk or ottoman bordered with fur such as skunk lynx benardeau renar deau squirrel and gazelle small melon shaped and round muffs ure tire 0 often carried with these costumes the dominating note of the afternoon gowns la Is the use of black satin and most of these frocks have three quarter coats to io match some of the dresses exploit long white tunics of or crepe remain most of them straight at al though some have a definite circular movement the double coat effect a feature of if this seasons collections Is seen J in 1 I a three piece costume of 0 bele beige crepe remain with a lining and edge of nutria the straight frock worn beneath it has bus a hem bein of the fur and a narrow border of it round the bateau neek ned loose scarf like drapery at the left shoulder gives additional softness aness reneo renee Iten ces autumn showing Is characterized by tine fine workmanship clever of ribbon material as trimming subdued and restrained coloring alq nm a n silhouette that Is slim and straight although occasional models evidence a slight fullness while other houses are concentrating ou the belt less dress and tun tunic ic ileno has a belt or even a sash bush on oll almost every model site she uses many buttons as trimmings as well as for fastening purposes ciro and mohair 11 braid both wide and narrow plays sn important part tn in her collection |