| Show pla ds and str pes in regard to patterns as well as ors many women are prone to ig nore their suitability to themselves large stout women are occasionally so foolish as to attempt to wear a large plaid which but accentuates their is avoirdupois but on the other hand does a very small woman look well in a large plaid he pattern seems to be lost upon her tiny fig ire t women would do to avoid very clearly marl ed plaids and stripes although as a rule pin stripes are suited to a robust figure As for checks who cannot picture to herself the small woman daintily garbed in a checked silka it seems to have been made tor her special use there is no need to advise the blue eyed girl to match her eyes this rule applies indeed to any eyes their owner cannot fail to look well in a gown the same color the titian blonde however will occasionally try pink and red but she should keep to warm browns dark green blues and certain shades of gray whether her eyes be brown or blue salad a la russe salads comfort the cook A rus sian salad Is described by a corre spon dent ot good housekeeping small tomatoes were skinned and partly scooped out to be filled with a slice of cucumber cut very thin a ring of green pepper around the cucumber and a small round of truffle to garnish place the decorated tomatoes in nests of lettuce leaves and pour over them the following highly original dressing mix tour tablespoonfuls of mustard one fourth of a teaspoonful of salt half as much paprika one tablespoon ful of vinegar and one halt teaspoonful of worcestershire sauce add very slowly stirring all the time halt a cupful of olive oil french mustard Is indicated and the best imported should be used black velvet hat with alaci beath teath ers crown band of pale green velvet with large jet nail heads keep to one color why is it that so many women rebel at the idea ot confining themselves to certain when those colors happen to be becoming she should keep to them religiously even though the variety may be restricted and ex tiresome to herself the whole matter hinges upon the question as to whether a woman dresses to please herself or to please others and it is an obvious tact that she seeks to please others when pleasing herself most therefore it she looks well in brown why should she select a most trying shade of green because it hap pens to strike her fancy the woman who has plenty of money to waste in clothes and who ever feels that she hasa may try experiments it she likes but the woman who must wear her gowns whether she likes them or not will do better in selecting what ehe knows to be adapted to her lecul aar style of beauty and yet not so con as to make her too much known by her clothes philadelphia ledger S iks for the street there are several new silks for the street and of these nine out of ten are striped barred or covered with floral designs plain colors seeming at present to be at a discount except wien relieved by embroidered dots or convent onal flower patterns in self colors all the silks however are soft and have the exquisite chiffon fin ish which is found on them all from the bridal satin to the plainest silk for ever day wear like the ant que greek fabrics of exquisite fineness and the most gorgeous of embroideries were employed for the robes in which josephine and the dames of the first empire chose to array themselves but the robes themselves were of almost painfully skimpy proportions fash boned really on pseudo classical lines our modern empire modes mate far more closely to the antique greek models ample draperies fall ing in long graceful folds an excel lent example was seen recently it was of palest rose pink crepe de chine over glace silk finished with a deep hem on which appeared a delicate tracery of glittering gold embroidery the narrow bodice had small revera of faint green peau de sole ered with raised ribbon work in dell cately blended tints pale blue pink and mauve and gold thread the small puffed sleeves terminating in or nate little cuffs to match that met the long gloves the tucker a as of lace drawn up with nabow ribbon velvet for the school girl charmingly becoming to the awk ward angles of the school girl the demoiselle of 15 or 17 are those that are constructed with a shirred or gath ered corselet coming well up under the arm and to which a kilt or sun plaited skirt is attached not at the waist but rather at the hip line sep arate to be worn with this are readily made or the ubiquitous shirt waist will do as well A little bolero fashioned iron the same goods makes the gown fo street wear A very fh arming mod after this mode 1 ii deep shade ot rose hendree henrletta the other day the shirred part was mounted upon a boned and fitted waist lining and the skirt had a drop of duo moire for lining the top of the corselet took a deep heart shaped dip down in the center and handkerchief shaped revers of deep red rose velvet dropped over the edge on either side the blouse was of lace and little motifs cut from the lace were on the shallow revers the sun plaited skirt showed three rows of dark red ribbon velvet to match the lower row flush on the hem some five inches in width and to the other two rows about half boudoir that depth pink and blue in evening shades are the twin color favorites for velvets and transparent materials the little girl wears school frocks of serge brightened by turnback cuffs collar and belt of scarlet kid still more ruffles conspire to make the gowns of a girl in her first season even more airy and diaphanous are being recognized as among the most desirable as they are extremely fashionable materials ampire modes have invaded the juvenile realm and some of the smart est little coats shown for children are in this style muffs joined with a seam in the mid die to form an angle are designed es pec lally to thrust the short sleeve arm into the princess gown does not lend itself to cheapness of any sort and never Is lowered to the insecure foot hold of a tad empire styles to stay according to several eminent mo bistes the true makers of fashion nowadays the modern adaptations 0 empire styles will remain in high ta bior during the nest three months or so particularly in the way ot tea gowns and handsome coats for smart afternoon and evening wear the term empire Is an elastic one in these lat ter days applied to any garments which exhibit a very short yok elike bodice in all other respects they are amplified and idealized versions of their prototypes of a century ago as the curious in such matters will per belve at once by comparing them with old pictures and fashion plates corduroy Is qu te chic A hint tor an economical dresser was seen the other night in the shape of an evening coat of pale gray cardu roy velveteen it was an inexpensive thing but looked remarkably well and had big embroidered buttons sll ver and gold thread being used and i collar of imitation ermine this col ar had a border an inch and a half side strapping of silver tissue over which the tails of the ermine ran to form little black bars this coat should be lined with white or a very pale gray satin and have gray chiffon frills to face the fronts in any pale colored corduroy velvet it would be wonderfully good white corduroy velveteen makes a good evening coat too and might be treat ed in much the same way as the pale gray styles for the juniors circular skirts although popular are not quite so good for young girls as they are for older ones for cincu lar skirts will sag on the sides and that sagging Is so much more notice able upon that length 0 skirt than upon any others but that other skirt which tor apparently no reason in the world goes by the name of empire is immensely popular it Is circular in effect but that effect Is got by gores which with their many seams keep the skirt in shape kilted skirts are still high in favor for young girls suits and dresses they re too useful and becoming a style to be dropped in a hurry and they are at their prettiest when applied to plaid sui tings poverty cake without eggs one cup of sugar creamed with a large tablespoonful of butter add to this alternated altern atey 1 cup of thick sour milk and 2 cups of pastry flour that has been previously sifted with a pinch of salt 1 teaspoonful level of soda and 1 teaspoon level of cream of tartar flavor as liked this makes a light white cake or layer pie do not omit the cream 0 tartar as that offsets the extra soda and makes a fine grained cake hat of fantastic des agn one eccentricity in the shape of a lavender hat had a garland of shaded violets a large american beauty rose placed in the center of the front and another beauty rose with a spray of foliage perched there Is no othen word which fittingly describes the pro carious holdi upon the extreme edge of the brim one has a curious feel ing of uncertainty about this peculiar iv shaped and very peculiarly trim med hat nothing seems to belong it appears to be a haphazard collect alon of odds and ends left over from other creations and utilized as well as time and conditions would permit yet the hat costs a tidy sum and Is not within the leach of the ordinary purse lavender velvet waist blouse of lavender velvet plaited at the shoulders and trimmed at the hot torn in front with ruches of lavender de sole and white lace simulating a sort of bolero opening over a mo ise of white lace it Is trimmed around the neck and down the front with a band of cream pure or embroidery bordered with frills of the white lace the chemi sette Is of lace and the girdle Is of the velvet or of taffeta to match the sleeves cut with epaulets or caps are ed at the elbows with little lace ruffles and ruches of lav ender de sole embroidery on spring costumes it Is a little early to give su 1 gest lons for the style of embroidery to be worn on the linen coats lot next spring but it Is safe to say thit the eyelet will be used and that deep cuffs and large collars with a scallop running around them will be worn the skirts cau ie with tho the skirts can be finished with the same scallop instead ot a wide hem the material should be of sheeting linen quite heavy and preferably with a round thread A lingerie hat could be made of the same material but those made ot handkerchief linen are more and becoming pretty combination A curious outcome of the vogue ot heavy and light combinations Is that of using irish crochet of a very open mesh inserted in the middle of em with a close meshed bit set on without the more usual cutting away of the material beneath AFTERNOON OR CALLING COSTUMES the empire costume Is of violet or purple cloth the skirt Is slightly gath ered at the top and trimmed at the bot torn with a shaped flounce which 1 unit ed to the skirt by a band of the mate rial the ends ornamented with motifs of the cloth the narow Is plain rhe bolero entirely new 1 encircled with a group of tucks and the t ants form a sort of plastron ornament ed with buttons and the motifs ahe collar and cuffs are of velvet to match the waistcoat Is of cloth of a contrasting color ornamented with but tons i d opening over a of ace the ou e costume is 0 n th the skirt fitted over t e alls 1 1 p tnt b widths ft if finished with three shaped rafflea over a deeper flounce which Is cut in one piece with the narrow the top one 0 the three ruffles Is ornamented on each side of the front with buttons these with motifs of cord or ornament tie front of the bolero which Is plaited and finished at the bottom with a band of the material and of braid also with a plaiting of the material ahe turn over collar ornament ed with Is finished in the aade ay and the revers and girdle are of brown velvet the waistcoat Is of light blue cloth or velvet opening over a lace blouse the sleeves are with double cuffs of the material on n dented with and aj u with of the pile blue |
