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Show GEfi?S0DoaiIWEa5e S07Kirtland7N.M Down Highway 550, past the stoplight and on the left were the directions I got to the 550 Cafe. I had stopped to ask because I thought I had gone too far. But when I followed those directions, I still missed it. On the side of the road just before you hit the lonely stretch to Shiprock, there is a wooden building with a sign marking the 550. If you blink, youll miss it. Unlike some places along the road of life, this was truly a hole in the wall. But, the food and prices more than made up for it. With that kind of stale feeling of a diner ravaged only minimally by time, the 550 s menu spoke well of the area. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were all on one piece of paper sleeve. Items featured influences protected by a plastic of three different cultures everything from pork chops to Navajo tacos to extra spicy chili. Having an unerring need to pay a lot for food even though I only need a little, I ordered one of the most two-side- d, straight-off-the-laser-prin- ter - Is dishes (which was still a bargain): the Navajo burger with fries for $6.79. I pxpected one patty, tomatoes, lettuce and a maybe pickle slice. I should have read the fine print. When it came, it was two patties on fry bread with all the fixings and a stack of fries bigger than the Shiprock itself. I looked around to see all the meals were of a similar size, so didnt feel like such a slob. The dinners were even bigger, with soup or salad, rolls, vegetable, and choice of potato. Suffice to say, I walked away defeated, doggy bag in hand. The 505 may have defeated me digestively, but it didnt defeat me emotionally. Watching people come and go, it was apparent everyone was part of one big family. Patrons knew servers names and left good tips for good service. A jar next to the cash register collected donations for the head waitress, who was fighting cancer. expensive And by the time I left, I felt as if I, too, could walk cafe with its wall separating the into this from the nonsmoking section, and sit section smoking at the counter, drink coffee and not feel at all uncomfortable. It was one of those places where the jukebox sings in the corner and people talk to you as if theyve known you for years. Blue Plate Special: Hamburger Steak and Onions. Decor: Its whats on the inside that counts Men: Cant live with em, can't Tabletop-topiclive without em. Parking Lot one-room- ed s: Pickup Count: 3 classic diner food going out to pasture? n By Missy votei the only green thing on a plate at a diner was a pickle spear - and sometimes the anemic tone of that was up for debate. If anyone wanted veggies, they could help themselves to the lawn out front, as one cafe menu so matter-of-factput it. uniform-wearin- g But just as waitresses named Flo have gone the wayside, so have some of the preby conceived notions of what diner food is. Today, many diners offer veggie burgers and salad bars right alongside the old fried standbys. And although its enough to make Mel from Mels Diner roll over in his gravy', its a trend that is picking up momentum. A lot of people, especially travelers, are real conscientious about their diet, says Tom Kramer, owner of the 501 Cafe in Bayfield, which serves up vegetarian and organic items. "Besides, my daughters a vegetarian, Ive got to be able to feed her when she shows up. In addition to using organic greens in his salads and sprouts on some of his sandwiches, Kramer also bakes his own bread, turkey breast and quiches. He even considered not serving burgers when he first opened, but rescinded after some constructive criticism from ly gum-snappin- g, he says. Theres a lot of people still like that, so youve got to cater to both. Sue Hanson, owner of the Roundup Junction in Lewis says the salad bar at her roadside cafe has been a big hit since she opened the restaurant six years ago. We thought customers might enjoy it, and it turns out they like it a lot. However, Hanson says most of the requests for healthier items come from tourists. Theyll come in and ask for salad instead of French fries, she says. A majority of the (local) people really like the old fried stuff. Yet, even locals tastes are slowly changing, and the Roundup now offers grilled chicken, and fish and pasta specials. I think its evolving. A lot of the farmers and ranchers we get ... want more healthy things. But Hanson says lovers of greasy comfort food have nothing to worry about. Theyll never wake up one morning to find their favorite diner has traded in its greasy spoon for a vegetable patch. We havent gone that far. I dont think that would sell out here, she says. Dan Tilley, owner of Tilley's Grill in Durango, says despite his vegetarian offerings, his eggs Benedict and Field Day Burger with grilled mushrooms, onions and Swiss are still his biggest sellers. And just like a locals. When I said no burgers, people apron cant change its spots, he has no said, Youre crazy. You gotta have burg- plans to change either. resident Theres two staples to any restauers, recalls Kramer, a of the area. So burgers went on the rant, he says, eggs Benedict and menu, as did some other not so healthy huevos. If there arent any, Im always a indulgences, including chili cheese little suspicious. fries, meatball sandwiches, fried catfish and meatloaf. Kramer says the difference between appealing to both groups Missy Votel is the editor of Cross and alienating one or the other is a fine Currents magazine who wishes there was a way to mainline hollandaise sauce. line. Most people are still meat caters, grease-spatter- Photo' via Andy's Photography by Pam Taylor 'Our daddy's gone bananasl He's giving away cruises I ed See store for details. 24-ye- ar NIMHIIPIINT W HOME FURNISHINGS -- v 1315 Main Ave. Durango March 247-295- 9 17, 2000 - Cross Currents 13 |