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Show THE ZEPHYR/ APRIL-MAY. 2006 light fog. Not to be denied dinner, we found a bistro off the main drag and ordered a pitcher of sangria. The barkeep, after much wrangling, finally agreed to our demand and suggested we begin our repast with a plate of baby octopus. Let me warn you now, if you're squeamish about eating weird shit that requires lots of chewing, skip the octopus. The tentacles are particularly annoying. Tam the only witness to what went in that sangria, so you'll have to take my word for it. Generous pours of vodka, gin, and rum were chased by a handful of grapes, and an orange (with peel), all topped off with plenty of cheap red wine. The barkeep figured we’d get drunk and run up a fat tab. What he didn’t count on was that we’d witnessed a violent blood ritual in the coliseum, seen what appeared to be the makings of revolution, and were already well under the influence. Alas, with only one glass of his noxious petrol in their . veins, our newfound trio of Yankee comrades promptly passed out face-down on the table. This was a bad sign. Willie filled the bota bag with whatever was in the pitcher and we requested the check, which turned out to sport a figure substantially more than our hotel room. To make a long story short, we did what we were getting good at and ran for it. I can still hear that son of a bitch screaming at our backs in a tongue I know not. _1 vaguely remember clouds of smoke, nodding out in an alley behind our hotel... thinking that tomorrow was going to be one of those days that gives pain a bad reputatiuon.. In 1976, Hal Holbrook starred in a TV commercial warning young Americans not to get busted while trekking in Europe. He made sure we all understood that mom and dad wouldn’t be able to spring their chickens from the innards of a Spanish jail. I had seen this advert several times and was keenly aware of its meaning. Yet, the moment is often more powerful than the message. Thus, it was at this point that whatever sanity had traveled with me from Alabama now decided to return from whence it came and leave me to my own devices, under the eye of an angry militia with zero tolerance for foolish hooligans from the United States of America. I vaguely remember clouds of smoke, nodding out in an alley behind our hotel, my feet up against a column of some sort and thinking that tomorrow was going to be one of those days that gives pain a bad reputation. Viva /a Paradiso! Cut to coffee and Daffy Duck speaking Spanish on a small television. There were young men in uniform on every corner, carelessly wielding machines guns. The train rolled through one of the worst ghettoes I’ve ever seen. And then we were in France and glad of it: What became of our friends is anybody’s guess. Spain lived on, largely intact, and the rest is just the noise of history. lended up traveling alone to Rome, where I met the kind of characters Charles Dickens would’ve appreciated. The juxtaposition of street whores to the Vatican was about as ironic as I ever need things to get. And it was lucky for me that the last vestige of Amsterdam made it to Italy, lending added depth to my 30 seconds beneath Michelangelo’s famous mural in the Sistine Chapel. I’ve been an art lover ever since. Youth knows no barriers. But even the most seasoned fool understands when it’s time to quit. Thus it was that I stumbled into a TransWorld Airline office and suggested that we'd all be better off if they’d change my ticket and put me on the next jumbo jet for the lovely USA. The cute blonde behind the counter took one look at me and said “How about tomorrow?” Salut! Subscribe to the Zephyr Join the BACKBONE!!! Details on Page 6 (44 « A, 4, fy fo, fa, hn, a, fn, ti, fie, fi, Mr, Night found the city under martial law; a curfew and a quiet pall settled over us like a a 4 2 TSAKURSHOVI A unique selection of traditional Hopi arts, crafts and cultural items including over 150 Katsina dolls done in the traditionalstyle, as well as baskets, ceremonial textiles, jewelry, potteryand more. We also have complete visitor information (including connections for knowledgeable and articulate guides) to make your visit to Hopi a memorable and enjoyable one. So come visit Tsakurshovi, the shop with the unpronouncable name. We're located 1 1/2 miles east of the Hopi Cultural Center at MP 381 on Highway 264 in the heart of the Hopi Rez. TSAKURSHOVI (The home of the "Don't Worry-Be Hopi" T-shirt) PO box 234, Second Mesa, AZ 86043 1-928-734-2478 Nwwwwwvwvwwwwvvyv . EMail Your Feedback Comments: If youd like to send us some Feedback via e mail we can be reached at: cczephyr@frontiernet.net Edward Abbey: A Voice in the Wilderness New Director’s Cut Now on DVD Back of Beyond Books Ken Sanders Rare Books and on the web Become a LIFETIME subscriber/Backbone member WHIPPLE All we are saying is give ea BOL od Cana al eeW AIG? Servng Moab & Monticello since PEACE TREE 1980. a chance. FRESH SMOOTHIES/JUICES WRAP SANDWICHES ORGANIC ESPRESSO MEET MARGY! Moab's New Manager PLUMBING HEATING YARD IRRIGATION SYSTEMS MOAB: 259.6997 MONTICELLO: 587.2864 ey SeeLO Rom Vien MONTICELLO: 516 N MAIN PAGE 17 [ium |