Show u coat W th vest front fitted coats ith vest fronts are nong the newest and smartest shown id are very generally becoming his one includes also the new eeves which are full at the choul irs and a novel roll over collar that extended down the fronts As 11 the material is wood bron broadcloth road cloth with the vest 01 white oth and the trimmings of velvet but 11 suiting materials and all materials vogue for coats of the sort are lually appropriate the long lines bat are given by the seams that ex nd to the shoulders are peculiarly esl rable as they tend to give a taper ig effect to the figure fethe coat is made with fronts that re cut in two portions each backs de backs and under arm gores the est being separate and attached un er the fronts on ind bated lines the leeves are made in two portions each end are finished with rollover cuffs the wrists the collar and revers nish the neck and front edges and e rolled over onto coat the quantity of material required the medium size is 3 yards 27 ches wide 2 yards 44 inches ride 1 yards 52 inches wide with ards of velvet and yards of any edth for vest flat boas and peler nes the new ostrich and flat BS and pel erines are wider than more extravagant in coloring nd command an exorbitant price ome of them are eighteen inches in eidth and have a decided cape effect i the back and over the shoulders his cape Is in a deep shade of the coring selected and the stole ends ido gradually until at the tips they re almost pure white the favorite are american beauty red iding to a pinkish white burnt range fading to palest lemon and a ch seal brown fading to a white lat suggests both pink and chocolate lor ka TEA j skirts must stand out akles even it it takes a bit of boning bring it to pass A child s white serge coat is pret ly trimmed with the red and white ln of the calf chenille straw in various colors and shaded effects figure largely upon millinery some ot the new leather belts have short tabs buttoned in chion to the back tight little marie antoinette elbow eeves are finished with a broad ance in evening gowns the frivolous herself has to short skirts for all occa ans but high dress there is little difference between ie tea gown of to day and any light et and effective house gown silk gowns are to be worn right into ro weather and silk and ribbon mined hats will keep them company coming skirt fashions skirts promise to be very full at the m the plain full skirt which has en such a success during the sum er season will be given a new lease life as will also this same model amed with double ruches at the hot m not a few of the plaited skirts e stitched down about the hips to rm a small yoke in general the hit breadths are left plain skirts 11 also have attached flounces with heading of deep plaits or some other rm of trimming tailored gowns tor will be built of finely woven wools in indefinite checks and lids or showing mixed grounds and dots coat trimmings plain broadcloth and serge coats in e tone especially the dark shades enlivened by white collars and effs braided with either gold or sll r many women continue to lieve that the taffeta coat whether aed or unlined is the best for motor 5 they shed the dust and it the aliby of silk is good they will last e or two seasons they are often ned not only with a lighter bight taffeta but a light flannel iced between the two silks A new del in pongee is built with a series capes three in number the gar int proper is semi fitting and the depest cape falls a trifle below the bows pows and one and all of them are to the body c hs garment by and straps in fact all three pes are made separate and one or 0 o or all of them can be worn or not material for dust coats A great deal Is said about the dur alty of et coats it certainly has the advantage of shed ding the dust but every drop of rain even after sponging leave sits mark chaetung Chan tung severely made but fash boned upon loose lines heavily stitched with a possible ornamentation of braiding or lace 19 one of the most successful garments of the ho ir of ten times a bit of color Is introduced into the coats in the collar or in the cuffs each weel more cloth coats are seen but these for the most part are the three quarter length garment loose and roomy and cut on rather mannish lines one of the new coats Is chiefly noticeable for the huge pock ets which are set on each side of the i front just below the line of the bust another cloth coat has an odd cape passing over the shoulders but run ning into the seams on each side of a box plait in the bad fhe knit home shuns are also in evidence the best model has a full belted babli and loose front which may be e ther worn open or buttoned back the belt slips through the side seams and passes un der the front furs used as tamm many cloth and velvet gowns have an introduction of beaver used about the corsage and sleeves while one well known furrier show s a few at long coats in dyed moleskin which might easily be mis taken for sealskin but with a much more brilliant sheen the coat was 1 warm and attractive be ing extremely becoming ermine is being used again combined with beav er or sable while chincolla chin cilla is likely to be worn much more than it was last winter lace is being used on fir models but more as a plaited lining at the base of shoulder capes or sleeves ch acken jelly let two or three chickens cook slow ly in a small quantity of water until the meat loosens easily from the bones and season with salt and pepper As soon as it Is cool enough to handle re move bones and skin place the meat in a deep mold and use gizzard laier and heart to the water left in the kettle add halt a box of gelatine dis solved first in a little warm water and boil until reduced to about a pint pour this over the chicken in the mold and set away to cool cut in slices with a very sharp knife popular type of M among the most popular hat shapes in paris are those known as varennes true they have been worn through out the summer but with lower crowns than now appearing in many cases the crown Is boniar or funnel shaped and it is a point to be observed that the trimming will con of a double band of velvet in two shades leaving the upper part of the crown visible and a plume of three feathers will be pinned in the center of the front and caught with a high narrow buckle box coats now fash enable box coats quite loose are among the most fashionable for general wear and are rendered both novel and smart by the introduction of collar and cuffs of contrasting material an attract ive model Is made of navy blue cheviot with collar and cuffs of white cloth stitched and piped with velvet and is quite as satisfactory to the wearer it is stylish and effective the flat felsh at the back and the fly front make specially noteworthy features together with the pockets which are inserted in each front new fash enable frill the swathed bodice will be among the fashionable features of the new styles it will be made of silk velvet and other s apple fabrics the dounda alon naturally fitting the figure but whether swathed or not the coming tight fitting bodice concludes in a sharp deep point in front and many of the new evening bodices are in the old fashioned style small tight fi ting without sleeves except for th drap ery of lace or chiffon princess gowns gowns are to be worn again anis autumn to quite a large ex tent they will tal e the form of the genuine old fashioned precess dress which has been modified of late out of all recognition and although many ot them will in real ty be fashioned in two distinct pieces this will be so con that it will not be visible latest th in ch afon veils the latest importations in chiffon ve Is are remarkable for their hand work veils to be draped over the hat are emt roide thice ly in a very fine silk showing flowers in natural colorings the stamped chiffon veil is also shown at a lower price and can be secured in all the popular shade ef facts of the year fash enable blue and green no or of the season Is more fashionable than blue and green and none effective when the cor shades of each are chosen th a very attractive I 1 atle frock Is made of dark green cashmere trimmed with bands of blue silk overlaid with nar row braid of the green edged with straight bands of the silk on ahlich ring dots are embroidered and is thor hughly charming the waist is one of the newest and prettiest of the sea son and Is made with quite novel sleeves that are joined to a trimming band their fullness so arranged as to agne te desirable broad effect at the shoulders shoil ders the skirt Is five gored id can be gathered at the upper edge as illustrated or tucked as may be preferred the quantity of material red tor a girl fourteen years of age is for waist 4 yards 21 4 yards 27 or 2 yards 44 inches wide tor skirt 6 yards 21 4 yards 27 or 2 yards 44 inches wide gown in light golden hues the new shade of light golden brown or saffron color which Is known by the name of onion color is prom ased a great vogue for the early au dumn but chiefly tor the robe d inter leur A dress in this particular tone was carried out in voile having a very short bolero coat over a slip of cream lace the skirt simply adorned with two deep frills for the tea table A new fancy tor the tea at a large formal function is a vase filled with small japanese fans they may be folding tans or the flat transparent silk affairs showing geisha girls or japanese scenes but they must be very small they are most grateful 0 o guests who find themselves caught n the usual afternoon crush A HANDSOME WAIST odd feasts of panne velvet are ex smart and exceedingly hand some in effe and will be greatly worn during the entire season for the theater informal and all oc cassons of the like this one Is pale yellow in color with the little square yoke of white net and Is trimmed with heavy silk p semen trills of lace finishing the front and the wrists the design Is a peculiarly desirable one and shows tucks which give a box plaited effect producing tapering lines at the back while they are stitched to yoke depth at the front so providing falness below that point the quantity of material required for the medium size Is aa yards 21 4 yards 27 or 3 yards 44 inches wide ard rf net arid yards of blocs |