| Show r 7 1 as VV w 1 T ws ati T W OLD STYLE S YLE IN VOGUE designs that were popular in 1830 have found favor dressmakers are cabled on to solve a great problem HE d discriminating 1 1 m 1 n abing dressmakers have a serious problem to set 4 tie lie just now in the 1830 designs which are fast be ja coming the smartest and newest of fashions for 1903 the cape the revers mantelet and Pel delonne pelonne otine play an important part the grave question to be decided Is whether their gracefully falling lines which are inseparably associated with the sloping shoulders of long ago will seem tolerable on the square some times pointedly square shoulders of to day 0 the cape revers mantelet and pelerine are here along with the im lm mense flowing sleeves and ous frilled skirts and about forty five women out ot of fifty have square shoulders it will be seen therefore that the question is of importance As to just what Is the best thing to do under the circumstances opinion is much divided at present many women of an independent cast of mind and some others who believe in piquant contrasts maintain the fact that sloping shoulders were once worn with capes and pel erines is no reason why square ones should not become them j as well but that teat the eternal fitness of things can not be eluded so lightly is shown by the fact that the illustrators who seek to adapt their handsome gir girls Is to the prevailing style of dress and the dress to the girls have of late considerably toned down the aggree sive of shoulder which only a short time ago was one of the most valuable possessions of each proprietary type of girl square shoulders have been aamir ed from time to time the egyptians admired them and so did the greeks but from the days of venus de N 1830 styles on modern shoulders medici until they came in again with the pre Raphael Rapha elites itea they were eclipsed by the luxurious fall and clytle clytie lie like droop of the shoulders called swan like by the poetical and champagne bottle by the irreverent the high favor of the sloping shout der came in the wita the fash ions tons which demanded their support and became them so well that the combined influence of fashion and shoulders pre prevailed Nailed for three decades in themselves these were gracious fashions rich flowing half conceal ing halt half revealing A trifle too abend ant for the stout woman chev may have been but a blessing tor for the thin one however you look 1001 at it the freak freal Is liness which has revived them for a vigorous and broad shouldered gen aeration Is past understanding what Is a poor girl to do doa she has her square shoulders and has acquired them by hard labor she cant get rid ot of them for she ashes s not a gibson or a christy girl on paper to be subtly and imperceptibly modi fled fied to the requirements of the mode one dressmaker suggests some neat little pads which by shortening the length of the neck would give a perfect slope to the shoulders these 14 1 J in our grandmothers day would be carefully made to suit each pair of shoulders the dress would be fitted over them and they would fin ally be sewed in the dress but of course they would be of no use in the evening froce another suggestion is the resort to the all powerful massage to ab stain from any violent use of the arms ard shoulders and to spend as much ume as possible with heavy we gats in each hand to pull down the shout ders I 1 of course a girl may join the in dependent party and declare that a sharp angle in her cape collar is 13 much smarter than a oft incline but it is pretty safe to predict that it if it s decided that sloping shoulders are the only proper kind to go with J an old time beauty 1830 fashions the required shoulders will be forthcoming |