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Show !jc jialt altf Travel rtbunr Section T Sunday, August 24, 1986 Page story and photos by Tom McCarthey Tribune Travel Editor With its deluxe hotels, beautiful nights the bay shimmers in light when called beaches, international restaurants and elegant casinos, Puerto Rico conare disturbed by the watinues to be one of the Caribbeans ters movement. Although there was most delightful playgrounds. Because just a sliver of a moon the night our of its benevolent climate Puerto Rico group sailed, it was enough to keep is popular anytime of the year. the bay from shining But beyond the glittering nightlife The last parador we visited, Paraof the islands capital city of San Juan dor Montemar, was in the town of lies another side the tranquil life of Aguadilla the spot where Columbus is the paradores of Puerto Rico. These said to have first landed in Puerto Rico. It was the cheeriest, most rocharming country inns out on the island make ideal bases for exploring mantic spot we visited. The inns 40 the lush scenery and diverse attracclean, spacious rooms overlooked the tions Atlantic Ocean. Puerto Ricos paradores are modBy staying in Puerto Rican paraeled after the highly succesful system dores you get to meet the people, in Spain. First established in 1973 by sample a unique way of travel, and the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, oftentimes experience some genuine the collection of country inns now culture. numbers 12. Each of the paradores is Puerto Rico (or Rich Port m either a building of unique historical Spanish) is rich in culture, having interest or is located in a place of spawned artists, musicians and writers of international acclaim. In fact particularly scenic beauty. while our group was sampling the isVarying in size, the paradores are lands many delights, the Casals Fesvery affordable, ranging in price from $30 to $60 per night, double octival was m full bloom. We were cupancy. Some are located in the lucky enough to hear a flute and pimountains while others are right by ano recital at the beautiful Yaguez the sea. Theater in Mayaquez. On a recent visit this writer stayed The 100x35-mil- e island at the in three of Puerto Ricos paradores northern tip of the Antilles also feaand visited two others. Some were tures museums (Pablo Casals being more rustic than others. But the the best known), caves (Camuy), a 28,000-acr- e friendliness and hospitality at all rain forest (El Yunque), an historic town (Old San Juan), fancy were unbelievable. It was like being a resorts (Hyatt Dorado Beach) and a guest at the home of a Puerto Rican family. spiffy formal hotel (El San Juan). Parador Hacienda Gripinas, high in the mountains of central Puerto Puerto Rico is a Commonwealth of Rico near the town of Jayuya, was the United States. It enjoys fiscal and the most fun. The aroma of fresh cofpolitical autonomy over its internal fee lingered in the air at the mid-19t- h affairs, but its 3 2 million citizens century coffee estate. Its 19 rooms cannot vote in U.S. elections. were the most rustic of any I encounPuerto Rico was first discovered tered but the setting was absolutely by, who else, Christopher Columbus delightful. in 1493 on his second voyage to the Named for the tangy sweet flavor New World and called it San Jaun of its coffee, Gripinas was originally Bautista. The islands first inhabitowned by Eusebio Perez del Castillo, ants were the Taino Indians. whose rich coffee so pleased Pope The Spanish culture, which preLeo XIII that he made the wealthy dominates to this day, dates to the plantation owner a marquis. days of Ponce de Leon and his SpanIt was tough to decide which was ish Conquistadores who established more relaxing, a swim in the river-fe- d the first settlement on the island in 1508. From the Indians the Spanish pool or a chat and a drink with fellow visitors on the porch while learned to inhale tobacco, made the resting in native rocking chairs. The acquaintance of canoes and com limost astounding part of Gripinas quor, and ingested fruit and fish. however was the distinctive singing On the harbor of San Juan the of the coqui, or Puerto Rican tree built a walled city called El Spanish frog. At night they sang in unison, Morro that became a great strongconducting an almost deafening symhold of the Spanish Main. phony. For three centuries this land was In the historic city of San German, coveted by kings and pirates, among Para-dor Coeli is near Porta Church, the them Englishman Sir Francis Drake home feaOasis. The who occupied the land for five tures 34 rooms and is a true oasis in months before being driven out. Puerto Ricos second oldest settlen As a result of the ment. it made for a nice lunch stop on to Puerto was Rico ceded War, the way to visiting the ancient house the United States in 1899. The Jones of worship known as Porta Coeli. Act of 1917 made the people of Puerto The Villa Paraguera, located in the Rico citizens of the United States. Cafishing village of Parguera on the The island is filled with sugar cane, ribbean side of the island, was a tobacco, beans, bananas and citrus pleasant enough place for an overfruit. Most of the worlds rum is dis50 With stay. night tilled in Puerto Rico with names such rooms, this parador is great as a as Bacardi, RonRico and Don Q being jumping off point to cruise nearby See T-- Column 1 On moonless Phosphorescent Bay. micro-organis- c SP 5' Spanish-Ameri-ca- El Morro Castle overlooking old San Juan was constructed by the Spanish, begining in 1540. Drake from entering Puerto Rico. It kept Sir Francis I 4t t .. .t- - -3 c - v--- ; -- Jj: r i - S' . .v- Yr43 Ponce's striking red and black firehouse was built in 1883, above. The Hyatt Dorado Beach bas been gently updated, right. i ? 1 1 |
