Show HifTlf Madison Monroe and Jefferson The Salt Lake Tribune Sunday December 6 1987 T7 Virginia’s verdant countryside — Where giants walked story and photo by Genevieve Rowles Walking where giants walked can To wander through the houses where they slept dined played with their children loved relaxed savored the small enjoyments of life is to touch our lives with be theirs In this the 200th year of the framing of the United States Constitution many of us will make pilgrimages to the sites special to the men who fashioned it and to the women whose lives were played out in their shadows DC Washington the testing ground of the Constitution may be a good place to begin But do take a few days to drive south from Washington through Virginia’s verdant countryside to places bearing the stamps of Madison Monroe Jefferson and Patrick Henry who formed the backbone of the Constitution Montpelier home of James Madison and the irrepressible Dolley is a r drive from Washington It’s fitting that it’s open for public tours for the first time this year for Madison who later became our fourth president is acclaimed as the Father of the Constitution Montpelier in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains was Madison’s boyhood home and the home to which he and Dolley returned after his two terms as president It was built in 1755 of brick in the center-hal- l Georgian style by Madison’s father on land his grandfather patented in 1723 But Montpelier has undergone many changes over the years These changes in which the house was built onto many times and altered greatly offers visitors an architectural mystery tour lacking in houses perfectly restored and furnished The restoration being still in progress visitors gain insight into the painstaking work involved in restoring a national landmark Eventually rooms will be furnished in the periods of both the Madisons and William DuPont who purchased the home in 1900 and enlarged it by adding two floors to each of the wings The Madison cemetery and the estate’s extensive gardens add a special dimension to one’s visit Montepelier is open daily from 10 am to 4 pm Admission: adults $5 senior citizens $4 and $1 for children From Washington take ages 1 south to Fredericksburg then go west on Rt 3 and 20 For more inforor mation phone (703) write PO Box 67 Montpelier Station VA 22957 Some 20 miles from Montpelier on Rt 20 is Charlottesville where the stamp of Thomas Jefferson is felt Though he was minister to France during the summer of 1787 Jefferson’s contribution to the Constitution is indisputable for his correspondence with Madison provided the benefit of his considerable legal research his political savvy and his Support for its principles While the campus of the University of Virginia is well worth a visit it 'is The Lawn the stretch of grees-war- d flanked by brick colonnaded pavilions and headed by Jefferson’s famous Rotunda that is the focal point Designed by Jefferson and dubbed his “Academical Village” the present-dacampus’s core draws Tvisitors back to his time The 10 pavilions connected by colonnades are backed by charming brick-walle- d gardens little changed since their some 170 years ago The Rotunda Jefferson’s crown-- ' ing architectural achievement dominates The Lawn Virtually destroyed by fire in 1895 it was reconstructed under the supervision of architect Stanford White in a Victorian inter- 'pretation of the Roman style then returned in 1973 to Jefferson’s origi-- ‘ nal design The amazing Dome Room is used for University social events the first of which was a dinner for 400 honoring Lafayette during his triumphal tour of the United states One can almost feel the ghosts of generations of students while ex two-hou- 672-220- 6 ploring the cool passageways of The Lawn and standing under the Rotunda's dome where window niches still provide study nooks and bookshelves conveniently at hand And perhaps Thomas Jefferson looks on and smiles his approval The Rotunda is open daily year around from 1 1:30 am to 3: 30 pm except for three weeks in December and January Tours are conducted at 12:30 and 3:30 For most Monticello is synonymous with Jefferson Overlooking Charlottesville and the rolling countryside he so loved Jefferson’s home reflects his ingenious nature in a thousand small ways “All my wishes end where I hope my days will end Monticello” he wrote And so they did To tour Monticello and its dependencies and gardens is not only to visit the house often described as one of our country’s foremost architectural masterpieces but to gain a measure of access into the mind of a man far ahead of his time You will see his ingenious seven-da- y calendar clock the single-actindouble parlor doors that have never needed repairs the dumbwaiter and revolving serving door that eliminated the necessity of servants being present during meals his amazing bedroom-studAnd the gracious furniture and surroundings that were so important to him And the gardens and orchards that absorbed much of his attention That excavations are still ongoing underscores the complicated nature of the man Jefferson His entire story will perhaps never be told Monticello is apt to be crowded and the tours less than leisurely and regrettably sanitized His fascination personal life is not mentioned But to visit his home is nevertheless to feel his presence A new museum adjacent to the Visitors Center affords some additional insight into Jefferson’s life Allow time to browse in the exceptionally good gift shop Monticello is open daily except Christmas Day from 9 am to 4:30 pm from November 1 through February 28 and from 8 am to 5 pm the balance of the year Admittance: $5 for adults $4 for senior citizens and $1 for children ages 1 Group rates are available Given the attention that Monticello receives it may come as a surprise that fifth President James Monroe who carried on an extensive correspondence regarding the framing of the Constitution with Madison and Jefferson lived nearby Monroe asked his friend Jefferson to choose the site for his house And so he did on a hilltop commanding a sweeping view that included a glimpse of Monticello Originally named Highland Ash Lawn provides not only insight into Monroe’s surprisingly modest domestic arrangements but into an early 19th century The house’s working plantation smallish rooms are a charming hodgepodge of elegant furnishings some gifts of the Bonaparte family and homely touches such as guests’ surprising sleeping arrangements Sheep and peacocks roam the lawn The vegetable and flower garden with the Blue Ridge foothills beyond is breathtaking The estate is a refreshing change from the elegance commonly associated with plantation homes The house is open to visitors daily March through October from 9 am to 6 pm and 10 am to 5 pm November through February It is closed New Year Day Thanksgiving and Christmas Admission is $4 and group rates are available d For information write Ash Rt 6 Box 37 Charlottes9 ville VA 22901 or call (804) g y Lawn-Highlan- 293-953- Nearby is Michie Tavern where Jefferson Monroe and Patrick Henry were wont to foregather Opened as a tavern in 1784 it offers visitors a slice of life and a meal typical of rural Virginia circa 1800 After putting buffet lunch a tour of the tavern and adjacent grist mill still in operation after 160 years makes for a pleasant interlude The buffet is served from 11:30 am to 3:30 pm year around The Meadow Run Grist Mill Virginia Wine Museum and General Store are open daily with the last tour starting at 4:20 pm Admittance: $3:50 for adults and $1 for children Charlotte offering a variety of hostelries and guest houses good restaurants and interesting shopping is a charming place to spend a night For information about these and other attractions write The Thomas Jefferson Visitors Bureau PO Box 161 Charlottesville VA 22902 The next day it’s on to Richmond 69 miles down from Charlottesville Primarily noted for its part in the Civil War Richmond Virginia’s capital since it’s removal from Williamsburg in 1780 is undergoing a mammoth restoration campaign Nowhere is this more evident than at away a the Jefferson Sheraton Hotel Dubbed “the Belle of the Nineties” the hotel fell on hard times But it’s been returned to its original magnificence complete with Historic Michie’s Tavern where Jefferson Monroe and Henry were wont to gather Austria marble staircase and glorious skylights There is much to see in Richmond not the least of which are the Capitol and magnificent Monument Avenue But a visit to St John’s Church where Patrick Henry delivered his famous “give me liberty or give me death” speech is a must The 1741 church rises serenely from an interesting old cemetery containing many d sarcophagi The best time to visit St John’s is at 2 pm of a summer Sunday when reenactments of Henry’s speech are presented from the last Sunday in May through the first Sunday in September Tours are conducted from 10 am to 3:30 pm Monday through Saturday and Sundays from 1 to 3:30 pm The church is closed 'on Christmas Eve and Day New year’s Eve and Day Easter and Thanksgiving It is located at 2401 East Broad 5 Street Telephone: (804) Heading back to Washington on you will want to turn off at the Ashland exit take Rt 54 and follow the signs to Patrick Henry’s Scotch-town- : a drive through Virginia’s beautiful farming country Built about 1719 and purchased by Henry in 1770 Scotchtown was his home during his most active political years In keeping with a man for whom liberty was of prime importance the house is a simple one whose dormered second story was never finished off Ironically his first wife Sarah d was imprisoned in the basement for some time following the birth of her sixth child when she stained-glas- s above-the-groun- 648-501- became mentally ill Walking through the house that holds many of Patrick Henry’s effects seeing the family’s living arrangements listening to the story of domestic heartbreak is a poignant experience Scotchtown in open for tours from 10 am to 4:30 pm Mondays through Saturday and on Sunday from 1:30 to 4:30 pm Also by special appointment Admission: adults $3 student $1 For further information write Scotchtown Rt 2 Box 168 Beaverdam VA 23015 Many other notable Virginia homes and plantations are open to the public For a copy of Virginia’s Historic Homes brochure and other information about things to see in Virginia write The Virginia Division of Tourism 202 N Ninth St Suite 500 Richmond VA 23219 Genevieve Rowles lives in Salt Lake City Good skiing in Innsbruck by Judy Williamson Dallas Morning News INNSBRUCK Austria — Skiing in the Tyrolean Alps translates to vertical drops of 4000 to 5000 feet 3000 uphill facilities (from enclosed mile-wid- e snow gondolas to bowls above the treeline ample sunshine and a magnificent medieval town with snow piled like whipped cream on its gabled roofs and balconies ski The big draw for hounds is of course the impressive snow base that ensures dependable wilderness skiing and serious downhilling from ’til or May Glacier skiing in the summer months is a possibility as well And while Innsbruck might not be the big name in European skiing — such as a Zermatt or Chamonix — its status as the site of both the 1964 and ’76 Winter Games has earned it a credibility that appeals to both Euio-pean- s and Americans die-har- d cross-countr- y early-De-cemb- late-Apr- il XXX Igls and Axamer Lizum boasting miles of runs that are steep long and thrilling are the best known of the region’s five ski areas (Hungerburg Mutters and Tulfes are the others) and were sites of Olympic events both years Igls’ fame is due in part to the dramatic run by Olympic champ Franz Klammer in the men’s downhill in ’76 Amateurs are invited to test their skills on the Men’s Olympic Downhill Course open to the public daily Another draw for Igls 2Vfe miles from the center of Innsbruck is that it is the only one of the five areas to offer a traditional ski village at the foot of the slopes The outlying mountains including Axamer Lizum require that skiers shuttle several miles from overnight lodging in nearby rural towns to the lifts Though Axamer Lizum is a ride by car or shuttle bus from Innsbruck it provides the greatest variety of runs the best snow conditions — and thus despite ample lifts the most crowds Axamer Lizum too offers skiers a chance to relive past Olympic events by opening the sites of past men’s and women’s downhill courses to the public These two runs can be negoti- - framed by the Hungerburg soaring to 5500-plu- s feet cough up a small entrance fee to view displays relating to previous Winter Olympics including the two Games held in Innsbruck On display are clothing and equipment from past Olympic stars relate ed memorabilia and film coverage of Olympic events on the very slopes tourists may have traveled the day before ated by most intermediate skiers while the men’s giant slalom course also in the '64 Olympics should be avoided by all but the most expert Meanwhile schussers should be heartened by the knowledge that while intermediates can ski about 90 percent of Innsbruck’s mountains novices can manage about 50 percent after one or two lessons from a highly trained ski instructor — who just might be a former Olympic champ white-knuckl- XXX —AUSTRIAN TOURIST OFFICE: For information on hotels restaurants attractions and ski packages contact the Austrian National Tourist Office 4800 San Felipe Houston 77056 (713) —IN INNSBRUCK: You can stop by the Tourist Office (Burggraben 3 6020 Innsbruck) to pick up information Hours are weekdays 8 am to 5:30 pm weekends 9 am to noon —WHERE TO STAY: The Hotel Europa Tyrol across from the railway station and 10 minutes’ walking distance from the old city offers speavail) cial ski packages able to Club Innsbruck participants beginning at about $50 per person per night double occupancy Reser0 vations: (800) —NOTE: Although good lodging (but without such frills as heated s pool etc) is available in Igls or (for Axamer Lizum) a better idea is to stay in Innsbruck because of the many interesting sights in the old European city Shuttle service from hotels and other designated points in the city to the slopes is frequent and dependable and free to Club Innsbruck cardholders XXX Another draw for skiing in the Austrian Alps is that it’s more affordable than one might expect thanks to competitive air fares and a number of attractively priced ski packages Even with the weak US dollar struggling against the Austrian shilling (roughly 1198 shillings to the lift ticket costs about $1) a $53 Compare that to $155 at Vail or Beaver Creek (Top-fligracing skis boots and pole rental come to about $16 a day) Moreover the Innsbruck Tourist Office rewards skiers who stay at least three days with automatic membership in its Club Innsbruck program which allows a free ride on public transportation and ski buses from hotels to the lifts a break on hotel rates a reduced lift ticket and admittance to a number of combinan meettion social ings trans-Atlant- 850-999- 9 (half-board- 221-234- Ax-am- hours-orientatio- XXX s For the medieval city of Innsbruck offers a number of sightseeing attractions cozy bistros and good shopping opportunities — with most restaurants and shops clustered together in the pedestrian-onl- y old city Sports-mindetravelers will want s to join at one attraction here in particular: the city’s Olympic y Museum housed in a structure known as the “house with the gilded roof” built by Emperor Maximilian I out of more than 2500 gold tiles Tourists who visit the museum non-skier- d non-skier- 16th-centur- ¥ —LANGUAGE: If your own tongue isn’t comfortably curled around conversational German head for one of the bigger hotels where English is spoken In any case it’s not a bad idea to take along a German phrase book or a German-Englis- h menu reader —A NOTE ON SHOPPING: For purchases of more than 1000 shillings (about $83) request a refund on the Value Added Tax when leaving I HAWAIhlilet of Paradise Discover the Aloha Spirit of Hawaii on our exciting new tours to Hawaii Our tully escorted tours introduce you to the people charm history culture and beauty of Hawaii Stay in first class hotels eryoy activities and meals other lours don’t include Select from our 8 or 12 day itinerary Jo really see and experience Hawaii callus 8 days 12 days $1049 $1479 POSE PABADE-N- YEAR'S HOLIDAY EW For the most fun filed Holiday Season of your llte1 In Las Vegas stay at the elegant Goden Nugget in Los Angeles the Hilton and in San Diega the beautiful Hotel Del Coronado Eryoy exciting activities including Disneyland Sea World and Unive- crowned by a Gala New stand seats at the Pose Parade December 27 January 3 rsal Studios Years Eve Celebration and reserved grand $595 TEMPLE TOUR great time to get away from winter weather Visit St George Mesa Los Angeles and Oakland Temples Included ere stops at Palm Springs San Simeon San Francisco and Rena with fun activities and interesting places along the way $575 February 8 A CLASSIFIED THE PRIVATE PARTY MEANS OF ADVERTISING MERCHANDISE SERVICES AUTOMOBILES REAL ESTATE AND MUCH MORE DIAL 237-200- 0 In 1 Utah Outside Salt Lake Call Toll Free 8 am-- 86 00-662-91 4 pm CALIFORNIA WINTER BREAK fun break from Utah’s winter to Southern California Stay on the Queen Mary permanently anchored at Long Beach Also stay in San Diego Lawrence Welk Village and the lavish Golden Nugget in Las Vegas California fun all the way1 Take a February $499 22-2- 9 MEXICO Mexico is a rich combination of modern cities ancient civihzaions colonial settlements and glistening beach resorts Eryoy the highlights of its rich culture history and scenery from Mexico City to the runs of the Yucatan February $1095 21-2- 8 DEEP SOUTH SPRING BLOSSOM TOUR Discover the spirit and beauty of the South during its most colorful season Fly into New Orleans and motorcoach through the South Including highlights such asEPCOT Center Kennedy Space Center Charleston Williamsburg The Grand Ole Opry and more (Optional visits to Atlanta and Washington DC Temoles ) $1449 1988 April 3 for more Remember daily newspaper Want Ads do more things of advertising form other than cost at lower any people Tel 88 West (801) 500 South 295-944- 3 Bountiful Utah Toll 84010 Free I I k I ) I |