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Show im i 1 mrm CRISIS IN FASHION INDUSTRY mfik IsThe Midi To Blame? I It the IK-eneditor"! NottFollowin el three article! en the herd ime! to the women"! wear industry. Ccpyrlsht, 19t0, Women's News Service. ty CATHARINE NEW YORK BREWSTER (WNS)-Eigh- t-en manufacturers have closed r have gone into bankruptcy, said Mildred Sullivan, director mi if the Npw York Couture Business Council. She was speaking of this year, when a single season jjaw the doors close on such names as larvey Berin, Hannah Troy, Jo Copeland, and aurence Gross. Since the closings coincided ith the first season in which jthe longer skirt staged a strong comeback, it was natu-jrfor Miss Su'livan to blame Jeconomic troubles on a fashion change. She is far from the only one who believes the midi has brought disaster on the fashion business. Unfortunately, facts do not bear out this idea. None of the established firms who closed did so because of a nere hemline drop. In fact they had collections for shown all spring, had them weil received. What did them all in was a combination of inflation and recession, plus advancing age in a couple of cases. al fuesday, October 6, 1970 Every season, store buyers have complained about the higher prices for clothes, but top h' rs were locked into rising cost structures. Under labor forces were wages to getting beat the general inflation in the economy. Fashion firms have been meeting the problems in many ways. Younger designers, such as Bill Elass, Oscar ever-high- Renta, Chester de La Weinberg and Geoffrey Beene, had the energy to open subsidiaries. ; Because these count as new firms, new labor contracts could be negotiated for them on the basis of something nearer mass production. The clothes were sold at much lower prices, but still have the designer name on them, usually with the word boutique added. Older firms, however, either did not wish to use this device or could not do so. Harvey Berin and the principals of Israelson-Lev- y were all men THE COSTS For the last two years, costs have been rising mercilessly. In cont racts, union A15 retirement age who decided they hau had enough of the fashion vars. HER FEELINGS of Jo Copeland had long been th'nking of retiring, felt ths was the time to do it. Marquise was a house which had been in financial trouble for over two years, finally gve up the struggle despite having taken on top designer David Kidd. Kidd had already had one house shot out from under him well over a year ago when Arthur Jablow called it t. quits. Perhaps the clearest indica- tion that the midi hasnt been a cause of closing can be found in the example of Laurence Gross. Only in his thirties, Gross opened his house six years ago. By doing collec- small, tions in the bracket, and using good designers, first Phillipe Bodinat and then Levino Verna, Gross was successful. His fashion message was neither extremely mini nor $75-$15- 0 extremely midi, when the trend to longer skirts became obvious. His closing, in fact, was quite abrupt. Reason? His next labor settlement, however necessary for his workers, was going to price him out of his market. Foreseeing disaster ahead, he closed. His designer, Levino Verna, is now on his own, the same kind of doing clothes, mildly midi, which he has made up by contractors. ;Ss8 mm ABOUT INTERVIEWS In interviews with people from a number of firms either in trouble or closing, none said that the fashion changes of the moment were the cause of their closing. In fact, among the few houses in trouble for spring were those who had stuck with mini lengths. Notable was the example of Mollie Parnis, who could be heard last February screaming her head off against the midi, promptly went that route in late April when her first fall collection opened. However, there has been so much sound and fury over the midi thpt surely some of it must be true. On all sides one can hear stories of stores and manufacturers who are in trouble with the midi or who have refused to handle the new lengths. Just what part has the midi played in the current econom-i- c troubles of Seventh and pepper decorating scheme can add lots of dash to your home. Try black and white shag rug; white ceiling, black lacquer bookcase. Be sure to add some bright, colorful accessories. A salt Dramatic Color Scheme By CARLETON Avenue? fiepig temrating combinations pered, of course, with another color, maybe green. Green plants in white pots and multicolored accessories are all that a black and white scheme needs for that added . . . dash. Thinking about a new decorating scheme for the den or family room? Why not consider the salt and pepper look. Start with a great black and white tweed dacron shag rug. Wild There is one called West that I like very Mdnelly-Moffe- tt Making plans for a winter are Miss Muriel wedding LaDene Mclnelly and Tracy Brian Moffett. Disclosing the news is her mother, Mrs. Dean Mclnelly, 1180 E. 300 South. The bride-td-b- e is also a daughter of the late Mr. Mclnely. ;The future bridegroom is a sdn of Mrs. LaRae Shurtliff Moffett, 1172 Kensington Ave., 0 and Theron E. Moffett, much. ' 3367-130- East. The couple plan a Feb. 24 wedding in the ; Salt Lake Temple. That 'evening they will be honored at a reception at North 33rd Ward. Miss McLielly and her fiance are students at the University of Utah. She has attended Stevens Henager College. 90S JoAnn Koehler Ruth Hinmon Is made by her parents, Mr. and Mrs. Ottie Koehler, 2468 Imperial St., and Thomas East. Parents of the bridegroom are Mrs. Lois Clawson, Huntsville, and the late George is a graduUtah State' University, where she was a member of the Honors Program. 7070-287- 0 1910 P. Hinmon, 460-4t- h Clawson. The evening of their wedding the bridal couple will greet guests at a reception at Hinmon-Clawso- the Edgewood in Ogden. n wedding in the Logan Temple is being planned by Miss Ruth Hinmon and Frank Clawson. is a daughThe bride-elec- t ter of Mrs. Lucile E. Hinmon, A Dec. Announcement of the engagement of Miss JoAnn Lynn Koehler to Allen Russell Banks OCG LaDene Mclnelly Catalina Dr. The prospective bridegroom is a son of Mr. and Mrs. Jay E. Banks, East. An April 22 wedding at the Shalamar is planned. Koehler-Bank- s (to Co. Black and white has always been one of my favorite deco- Nu ptial News & What the little black dress is to the fashion field, the black and white color scheme has become on the decorating scene. Nexts The Midi"! Rot The VARNEY President, Dorothy Draper 18 STYLE CLOTHING SZES 6V2 to 32V240 to SO Dahte9 QUEEN SHOP 48 West 2nd South 364-418- 0 of You might use a comfortable tufted modern sofa covered in one of those new black soft glove vinyls. You can sprinkle a lot of spice on the sofa with black and white zebra striped pillows, or with black, white, and chocolate and white spotted pony skin pillows. A black and white room calls for great splashes of the Her fiance will continue his studies at USU, where he is a member of the National Honors Society. He has completed an LDS New Zealand mission. The American custom of frequent bathing was starting 1778 around by Benjamin Franklin, who defied public opposition by bathing twice a jackets. For further salt and pepper touches in your family room, what about covering an old hassock in a black and white plaid and using a black vinyl covered stainless steel chair behind the desk. Select a black china ginger jar lamp with white accordion pleated shade for your desk, and. for your sofa end tables, choose white ceramic lamps with black opaque shades. To filter light into your room,' hang draw curtains of a white sheer fabric. Forget about white silk fabric for your windows if your e. room gets a lot of bright After many years in decorating, it has been my experience that silk fabrics very soon rot if exposed to too much bright sunshine. gun-shin- DEAR DECORA FAMILY My carpet is a very dark gold. Walls are light gold with gold and w'hite stripe TOR: vinyl What wallpaper. color and fabric should I use for couch, two wing back chairs and one other chair? I would like to carry out the country French look. MRS. D. K. G. DEAR MRS. D. K. G.: So far, you have only gold In your living room. Why not use French blue and geranium pink with the gold look! Find a French blue and white cotton Toile de Jouy pattern for your sofa and the other chair. Wing chairs can be in a French blue, geranium pink, gold and white plaid linen. New Kind of Nail Tonjihener Takes Only 3 Days . . . Then You Can,. DUE TO LACK OF FOOD BULK Iri YOUR DIET . . . Without Breaking a Fingernail! ... " B law remains a mystery. 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' but isnt it consoling to know that now no matter what . . .youll have all your nails, no matter what. Important, its nice to know you van wear your nails extra long like a sultans favorite wile wears hers (just to prove shes special) and that your long, long . nails van still tire nut an unuiled typewriter. Most important always your nails look long and beautiful. The inventors of NA1LETTE Nail Strengthener guarantee that youll have mi more eraeked or Ivroken nails! Your nails may bend a little under stiess hut theyll he too tough to break. And theres no tormalde-hyd- e in "NAll.ETTE; not a drop! Absolutely new and different, it works by a new rapid oil absorption, nil moisturizing principle. Just put a drop of NAILETTE under the tip of each nail once ,, every day lor 3 days in a row and you'll have nails like a tigress daw his eyes out if you like . . . theyre beautiful. Safe, efficient Nail and fast; thats the amazing newly discovered "NAll.ETTE Strengthener. Only $3.00. So if your nails break, t rack and dont '' grow long and beautiful, get "NAILETTE today on guarantee of satisfaction or return bottle cap to store for money hack. At drug stores. The method of enforcing this colonial forefathers werent too keen on bathing, especially in cold weather, a study said. Some even thought it was harmful to bathe in cold water, and passed laws prohibiting people from bathing and installing tubs in their houses.' In Philadelphia, for example, one bath a month was permitted but anyone who indulged in more went to jail. , EVEN PULL TACKS IRREGULAR1? Frequent Bath: Today's Custom week. Our Women's 1 The ate bride-to-b- e . two basic colors. I would recommend spanking white walls and ceiling with black lacquered bookshelves. You can add more dash to your bookshelves with multi - colored book jackets and some colorful accessories. Many people remove paper book jackets from the volumes I never do. 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