Show n LAST AND BEST BESTIa Ia I JOURNEY IN SPAIN Dolt to of n a t Across Tho Raisin I Spanish Tho Wino pross Is Trodden bya by a Barefooted Days Boya and Mon In Hem Hemp pan n 1 n 2 Day In Malaga j m S u UJ 1 Special Correspondence Granada Jan Jun 27 21 suspicion you ou began to entertain at nt strengthened In III spite of oC sentiment and triathlon ut lit Valencia and all ull the thc the way wa down the Mediterranean coast i becomes positive YO conviction con nt at n t Malaga that world Andalusia Is noy no longer the Jewel of or Spain Front From a II y und cull aesthetic point of or view Cadiz Seville Toledo lol du do their air of ot dreamy repose thou their haughty but aristo aristocracy t I cracy cruey and general out al elbows con coil condition are aro by y fur far the most Interesting In At Al every evory turn they remind you of oC u l glorious und and opulent prime long ong long 1001 th a whereas In these the c cities with their modern bus hus hustle tle and activity of ot commerce Urn push past i Is III forgotten In Uie prosperous life of ot today It seems like tika heresy to preter trade tralle to 10 the Ihl romance of ot lines ages but though dreams are aro delightful bread and butter hutter plentifully II Is II of lit more consequence to cities as III well as cis to Individuals Malaga Is u a 1 shining example of ot this i latt latler duy with Its MH world famous raisins and Its wines clues of vr many Marty varieties l Its brandy distillery which IB Is Otto one of or tho the most meal perfect establish establishments meets ments In Europe Its factories of or sugar chocolate and porous earth earthenware lt ItH ts cotton ollon mills and paper I mills and leather and l lead and Iron Ion works its It II enormous trade In III oranges olives bar barley ley Joy figs liSs list fist and commodities lor tor or which thousands of ot vessels annually visit Its Ha harbor Its tour four great sugar I I manufactories turn out n yearly aver average average age of lit ninety thousand hundred weight its Ita H two t 10 cotton colton factories employ more inure than hands rands rind Its merchants export every variety of at sweet muscatel Mines from the tho celebrated tours tear do Mantilla lul and anda a II couple of or orCE CENTURIES CE OLD OID I i to the ho common fiery lIery stuff which Is la much too strung strong for Cor the average Amer American AmerIcan Iii ican lean to sample with Kith impunity A Avery very el cheap and popular Malaga wine swine has hua huas ii tills this quality of or burning strength Im Inn Imparted s 1 parted to It U by hy bring being mixed with witha alco hol made horn potatoes Immense t titles of or which are Imported front Ocr Ger Germany many maJl to tho the Infinite detriment of ot con Its alcoholic character com cont combined combined with the tho heat heal of ot tho climate and national excitability drives the drink ors ITS crazy and no doubt doubt to UK Its cheapness cheap cheapness ness and consequent too loo liberal use may be e attributed most moat of ur the crimes s which have hao clen the place such l uch an un ar unenviable enviable reputation With the charming prospect before us of ut u It drive to a run ail a athu i i the thu showplace ace preeminent of or all the j showplaces In Spain we were recon reconciled I eked to another hours hears of ot oft t j robbery robben In the tho expensive hut hot com fort i less Gran lintel Hotel de do la 11 Roma while I waiting for tor tho the semiweekly weekly i Meantime there thero Is la quite enough of oC In III Interest terest In Malaga to keep keell ono one all aU dayi day l out of at doors In tho the sweet warm sun suit sunshine i shine and thu tyre long nights en cn cassa come to an at end nt fit last though through sleep Is murdered by lusty generations of ot ver vermin er It min man vile vUc odors In viler combinations and the tics street 1 of at bedlam let loose The Itoman cathedral which by reason renson of oC extraordinary size and height dominates tho the town and IH is seen fur far out to t sea Is rendered the themore themore themore more conspicuous by u Its walls of ot bright red led while all nil tho the i other buildings are of or dingy trays Brays s cad and yellows It waa begun In the sixteenth century but butIs I Is not yet jet et completed c and probably lever will be he Architect after architect through four Cour hundred years has added lidded ids his quota quoin of disfigurement until now tho the vast Kt pile with Its lis media of In s designs bedaubed Inside Innumerable costa coats of or whitewash presents u painful example of ur ull thu tho Its defects defects of or ofa athe thu worst In art Its a western front has two toners tatters ono one I I shooting up 1111 telescope tele cole fashion three UI tJ hundred feet felt with a tiny tin dome on top that hat looks the button on nn the horn hornof hornot hornof of ot an ox while Its companion tower IH Is IHa Int t a 0 squatty unfinished dwarf darr where There are seven Helln entrances a II great many enormous windows and cud a it number of uC curious little cupolas on the roof root It occupies the tho site of n a mosque at nt the thc entrance to the old Moorish quarter whose steep and narrow by byways u ways load by u divisions winding InlIne to castle on top of ot the five O hundred toot foot high hill hili It Is I said Mill that t more money Is I yearly earl for candles u in this cathedral than for tor all ull the th meat and bread brend consumed In III Malaga l At any nn tote rate Ill te thousands of LIC candles are ure per pcr perpetually burning bunting I on Its altars and ut icily any time thill of ot du day dllY every overy day da In the th year cur Is la going on un Soldiers artisans grandees beggars even cen professional smugglers and hUh high highwaymen waymen all ull devoutly answer this call all allot of ot the cathedral l b lI anti and you oU see feo a n constant procession of ot Spanish w nm n entering Its It II doors always plainly dressed In black garments with a bit ull of at lace thrown over oer the head Tho chief beauty of ot the town Is IH Its lIs delightful a broad brouet and avenue WITH A lItO tEN ADI In hr the tho center under noble trees bun foun fountains talus and statues scattered nt at Inter Intervals vela vals tint and stone stints seats In the shade whole where people sit It chatting und and listening to the music The fountain at tho the far end 1111 was brought from COIll Genoa by b Charles V and all Intended for tOl his hla pal palace palace Jal ace lice at Granada You 1011 may tuko some lovely drives In Inthe Inthe Inthe the suburbs of Malaga maid amid the coun oun country country try seats Hents of ot Spanish grandees std and the fur far more pretentious aristocracy of ot the wealthy raisin merchants whose whore splendid splendid did villas line lino the hillsides These o lat hat latter lutter hatter ter gentry form a I crate iste Their enormous Incomes enable them to sup KUp support port princely establishments to the tiro un tin undisguised disguised envy of vC the thc rest Iest of or the till population lation nobility Included Although h many matl foreigners rue ate Included Inri udell among them all nil distinctions of ot nationality are arc Ignored In the tho acknowledgement of oC their common occupation This social Intimacy however Is 18 strictly to their own circle and outside of or It the arrogant exclusiveness of oC this par parvenu lIlU aristocracy IH is us liS ludicrous as ie rc tune the most moat eminent philosophers philosopher pliers pher statesmen mi thorn artists ns as aswell well ell us its the bluest blooded noblemen of ot ottIl the tIl old clog being alike Ignored by y I these tho e neuvo riche In III tho the suburban gardens you see flee the rarest of ot tropical vegetation coffeo orange and pepper trees bananas pineapples and porno ponce granites all flourishing to perfection amid n a III ill d u a wilderness w of nt wherever ever over Irrigation Is practicable Hut there thare Is no grass cruss In hr this part pait of ot Spain Instead they cultivate a n sort Kort of ot Ivy and very rich and nud strange o it looks rolt molt molting Ini ing In over oar the tho ground Ono One of the prettiest prettiest spots In Malaga Is the tho I cemetery Just JUHt beyond be the thu city walls It Is a small but beau beautifully beautifully laid out and carefully kept a apet perfect pet feet garden of ot shade and fragrance III Ip which one anti could contemplate the last tong long sleep with less of ot horror honor than In any uny Spanish The Tho graves graved can scarcely be ren for tor we 11 while avenues of or line lIue trees and amid mil greenest Ivy are aro bordered horder ll With roses roes ro cs and un 11 geraniums A good many Englishmen l and Ameri Amen Americans Americans cans live In naturally Homo home of oC them die dla there ther In Spain they seem scorn to think more alone of oC you In death than In life lICe or at least they ate are snore more loath to part with you If it you 1111 die here hort your our body boily must be hurled burled within twell t four hours and there thele It must remain file n no b nM 1 b a U I nn tor lUr u Lar s uv a etc V OJ Ig It r PI v J n nto to your home One Ono of ot the first Hist graves made In tho the r cemetery was 1119 that of Major MoJor Thomas of or Minne Minneapolis apolis a IL tanner former of or the tho United who died tiled of ot smallpox In lit whatever r foreign country you find nn on English embassy or only nn an Insignificant cant consulate there Is I also III o a of ot worship If of nothing more mon 0 r than a n plainy he room Great and und prosperous Britain carries her I everyday unostentatious religion i wherever her armies or her flag Ila Is tint that menus means all nil around the till globe The rho church of Mal tul Malaga n aga 6 il H ls a u tiny t In S Grecian at chapel near tM the th cemetery gates embowered In flowering vines A wider contrast can hardly bo pe Imagined than between this trim true beautiful place and the Sunfish cemetery tho latter lutter being merely merel a avant avast vast vant l hare baro licIt Held unclosed en closet within high 6 h walls walla The central spare space Is tilled filled with pretentious monuments and ani bake bakeoven shaped of or rich citizens and the encircling walls being eight feet teel thick are HONEY CO with rows of long onA narrow compart compartments compartments ments rents like the loculi moult of ot the ancient Human Itoman catacombs Into each cacti niche a corpse Is slid head heuI first t In a ia collin or not according to th Ih means of ot th the mourners and then thun the stone Is fitted In place and aM seated sealed The wealthy and powerful occupy the lower tiers the poor the upper onen thus reversing the positions they held In life lite The long ride to the tho thoN N p p p famous raisin belt and orange groves which extend forty miles mile front from the mountains mountain s to t the thu t Ia sect Hen Is tho the experience of or a lifetime 11 Protected d from fromet winds by liy rigged peaks that enclose It like n semicircular wall willi w rt ll the sunny valley Is la filled with the must most luxuriant vegetation than tion while the tho steep sleep hillsides apparently bare at nt a little distance are cov covered covered covered ered with grapevines Interspersed Intersperse among the orange groves lire are many smaller plantations of or olives olle lemons and other oilier fruits palm trees and aca acacias clan cias add beauty to the scene gerani geraniums geraniums ulna and heliotrope grow wild willi along the hedgerows rose vines and masses musses of at brilliant towers lowers mantle every wall walland walland and purple Judas blossoms leap from tree treo to tree across the road ran making miles of ot shady arbor Everywhere white while villas nestle among the trees The most delicious odors fill the nh air curd and the laborers In the vineyards are dressed In snowy white At every hamlet you see sec picturesque groups of peasants nil alt beautiful of ot face fac In spite of oC rags and dirt with olive skins dark darl eyes anda and unit n II certain Indescribable haughtiness combined with gracious courtesy truly trul Spanish The TIle muleteers WEAR WI An GAUDY BLANKETS TS and leather uther I leggings le and und the teamsters short velvet Jackets covered with em and nm wide Ide calico drawers reaching reach reachIng Ing not quite to the tho knees Tho The best bOllt raisins In the world conic coma front from barren elevations ele where only n a toy few Inches of ot soli soil conceal the tutu rock The rice vines are platted planted upon terraces built up of oC me fertilized with loam brought from the Ito valley alle below Thu Tho estates to which these those vineyards be he belong belong long 1011 If are II the tho most valuable In the tho king dim and have been lieen In the tho same families lies Iles for Cl Vines Ines lire are still bear bearIng bearIng ear earIn Ing In abundantly that tire are nr known to be e score titan than three hundred years old They are aie not trained upon stakes stake or but are allowed to follow their own sweet siy will Willi and the gnarled and acid twisted stalks only two or three feet high und and often oCten eighteen inches In to din dla motel mater would never be recognized elsewhere else elsewhere where as liS grapevines The vintage c begins about the middle of September and lasts six weeks It In is Inn hn isa n a popular festival anti a 1111 Is celebrated with the license licence of ot the thc Homan Roman Saturnalia Its 1111 opening aliening Is announced to tho assem assembled bled peasantry with great Ireat formality by hy bytho hythe the Lire proprietor of a n vineyard lne mill and Is ac nc accompanied companied by hr quaint ceremonies handed handell down from front the ages For Tor the time lime all social distinctions are levelled tho Master laRter who feels his consequence so e stupendously elsewhere el seating himself and his family at the same table tahle with the servants and anI Joining freely treelY In their games until the end of oC the Which closes COSOM with a proclamation Inn lar to that with which It U is h Inaugurated I and then Is III eminently his old aid proud self n The rice grapes mIJe mire nrc gath gathered erect ered lOUI in lint flat baskets mostly uy by women and nud thrown Into a n large vat nt When the vat ut Is nearly full Cull till as 1111 many men ami ail boys as Os eon can get Jet Into It Jump In and dance upon the lice grapes to lively strain of or music drawn draten from Crom the number lumber of oC guitars and It Is a u base libel to say that they are arc ALL II BARr nARnI D for tor while many remove their dusty others than don them on purpose to tokop kop kep tho Ito out of or their too toe nulls mills When the rapes are arc sufficiently brul bruised ed ll till the dancers climb out dripping juke jillee and perspiration and amid l tOIl to toe loe The mats mass mn 9 Is then placed in a n rude press and the re me remaining Juice exhaled If It the most In Inveterate were to watch the whole modus operandi operand of oC Its It making I think his appetite for tor the favorite tipple would world be Impaired The fhe grapes are arc somewhat dif different foment ferent f In appearance and anti treatment Kar as the eye Cl can see sec stretch the vine vineyards vineyards Ine yards In every direction not the clam clambering I boring bering green Jllen vines Ines described by b poets but short unsightly stubs set sN n cc few ew feet feat In regular rows rOWl Around rh r 1 root h IH I n a little trench or basin to gash gath gather er or and retain the precious moisture j which Is s the condition of or their life lite find and the source of or their rich product Every toot foot of earth Is ts planted even eon where water seater has hu furrowed the Ft steep cop height hl the rift of red and soil Is covered with vines Tho Tim great relt clusters of ot |