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Show 4 - FLAGRANT TIMES - JUNE 15, 1998 GARDEN GRAB BAG swam... One of those subjects which I’m very interested in, but not necessarily knowledgeable about, is the topic of summer bulbs. So I decided that this would be a perfect opportrmity to educate myself and any of you who are interested at the same time. I've used what resources I have to gather information presented here, but I’m more than willing to admit that this is all the famous “hearsay” referred to in those courtroom dramas since I haven’t yet had a chance to plant these myself. But I’ve talked to those who have and admired the results of their efforts, and I’m promising myself that I should try at least a few of these this year. Bulbs are usually divided into two basic types..the naturalizers and those that have to be replanted each year. This can also refer to not only true bulbs but also corns, rhizomes, tubers, and tuberous roots. Contrary to bulbs like daffodils and tulips which bloom in the spring, providing cheerful color after a long dreary winter, spreading out, and increasing in number, there’s quite a difference with summer blooming bulbs, most of which are not hardy in our climate and have to be dug up during the autumn months if they’re to be saved from year to year. There are a few exceptions in this category which are perennials, such as lilies and Siberian iris, but most of them are very susceptible to any type of frost. Also there’s the problem of timing...in the spring when you order the bulbs, I’ve usually spent all my money on seeds from catalogs which arrived earlier, and at the end of the summer I’m usually about “gardened out” and don’t want to have to think about when that first frost is due. Some gardeners just allow them to freeze and plan on starting new varieties each year, but for those who are passionate about certain specimen plants (I’ve found many dahlia and begonia growers to be in this group) the joy is in the maintenance and propagation of their favorites. So I guess the place to start is with the planting which, if you’ve done spring-blooming bulbs, you’re probably already familiar with. Start off with good bulbs which the bulbs with a spading fork or shovel. being careful not to spear them. Several good suggestions I got were to mark the outer circumference of their planting bed with rocks or even to plant them in a type of basket created by laying a piece of chicken fencing in the bottom of the bed when you plant them, turning up the edges and giving you something to dig around and then grasp to remove the bulbs. Brush off the dirt then spread them out and allow them to air dry for about a week in a cool, dark place. When they’ve had a chance to dry, dust them with sulphur or other fungicide (getting rid of any which look diseased or damaged), pack them in peat moss, and store in a cool place till the next spring. These bulbs are relatively pest and disease free, with the exception of problems caused from rotting which is usually remedied by watering less. If critters such as mice or chipmunks think your bulbs are pretty good eating, then use hardware cloth or more of that chicken wire to surround and cover your bulb bed. This works for those spring bulbs too. I had a list with descriptions of each plant and flower but there were more details than we need here so I’ll just use this table to give you some names and general sizes, and if you want more information call me (Rusty Salmon, 259-4044). I haven’t listed the begonias, dahlias, or the various lilies because there are enough varieties of each of them to do a whole article on! Maybe you can try a few of these this year and enjoy something a little different. Happy planting! Short 6”-12” Mid-size l’-2’ Tall 2”+ Crinum Freesia Acidanthra Caladium Crocosmia (Montbretia) Lapeirousia Babiana Tritonia Tigridia Carma Agapanthus Homeria Sparaxis Tuberose Ranunculus Gladiolas Ornithogalum generally means avoiding those mail order offers for dozens of bulbs for only a few dollars. I’ve talked to too many people who’ve been disappointed for life with summer bulbs because they tried these and had maybe one out of twenty Ixia Ismene Calla lilies ever bloom. Quality bulbs will give you quality blooms. Avoid any bulbs which look soft or mushy or show any other signs of decay. As a general rule they should be planted in holes or trenches at a depth approximately three times their diameter in an area of well drained soil to minimize any potential for rotting. Most are planted around the time of the last frost. As with spring bulbs, multiple bulbs in an area will give you lots of color and drama rather than spread out in a long, skinny row. You should add a slow-release, complete fertilizer into the bottom of the hole into which compost, old leaves, or chipped or shredded wood has been worked. Any manure used should be well aged to prevent burning the bulbs. Then water thoroughly o Groundwater . Locating and remember that they should continue to be watered and fertilized regularly during their growth season. Now sit back and enjoy the show! Digging and storing these tender bulbs is not that difficult, just another one of those things to remember in the fall. You’re supposed to wait until the foliage is almost dried out and then gently dig 9 Well Development . Studies & Reports. Water Treatment Systems. HC 64 Box 2003 Castle Valley. Utah 84532 801 -259-BO42 Anton Layne Kabonic |