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Show The Park Record Section B Following in the footsteps of Marco Polo, we trave Page BIO D Thursday, August 19, 1993 by Jim Powell Editor's note: This is the fifth installment in a seven part documentary account by Park City resident and world traveler, Jim Powell. Bokhara was a well established city in the thirteenth century when Marco Polo passed through on his way to China. As late as the nineteen thirties it was a city receiving caravans of camels along the Silk Route. Until 1920 when occupied by the Red Cavalry, Bokhara was a country ruled by an Emir, who maintained a palace complete with a harem of wives and dancing boys for his pleasure. Until "liberated" by the Communists Bokhara was known as a forbidden country and a Muslim stronghold. Travelers to Bokhara might simply disappear. The mud-walled city contained 350 mosques and over 1(X) religious colleges. Now we were on the highway along the valley of the Zeravshan River to this once stronghold of Islam, 150 miles west of Samarqand, which had seemed to us pretty exotic and wondrous itself. We took a pre-arranged lunch break at a farm along the way. The lady of die farm had a table set for us in the shade of a large tree. We walked around the farmhouse through an orchard of apples, cherries and apricots and a bountiful vegetable garden. There was an out house at the back edge of the property and a place to wash hands before our repast. The old-fashioned old-fashioned washstand, almost like a child's toy with running water, was set up in the middle of the front yard. We sat down for a lunch of hearty soup made from these vegetables. The lady proceeded to bring us breads fresh out of her oven. All one had to do was reach for apricots and cherries in bowls along the table. We were also served watermelon and tea. Mad there been a Taco Bell or McDonald's along this highway, we might have missed this pleasant feast. The road to Bokhara was much like the road to Samarqand that we Russia East to West traversed a few days ago, irrigated fields on both sides of the road with little traffic besides trucks and farm vehicles. Driving into town was more abrupt, no significant suburbs and fewer multi-story buildings, but many domed roofs, some in blue tile and others concrete or earth colored. It was obvious that most of the buildings were constructed of straw-filled mud bricks. It must not rain much in this climate. What looked to be openings reserved for windows in new construction were often filled with more bricks set in diagonal basket weave pattern, then the whole wall would be plastered over to a uniform surface. One could easily build his own house with a little assistance from a neighbor. Repairs to this kind of construction are probably frequently required. But repairs are easily accomplished with the straw and earth near at hand. Once you become used to this simplicity of shelter, it seems quite appropriate and blends well with the environment. Our hotel was another high rise set in a complex of government buildings in a spacious park like quarter. Ludmilla, our guide, went through the usual arm waving and haranguing with the desk clerk to get our room keys. I was to learn from other travelers that this is standard procedure at Intourist hotels. The clerks are surly and not at all courteous. There is a new class of tourist hotels built with foreign investment; they have smiling, helpful clerks, but are much more expensive. While waiting we chatted with a Scotsman who was living in town. He comes over to the hotel to greet travelers, probably to keep in contact with the English speaking world. He was very pleasant and offered to show us around. His offer was accepted by six of us. Although the afternoon sun was blazing down in the heat, we started out on a brisk walk through a residential quarter with narrow, winding alleys and little shade. He told us this was the Jewish quarter of the city. It seemed much like the residential areas we had driven by and walked through in Samarqand. Along the way we went by a mosque, in the Jewish quarter? The residential area opened up into a regular street with a scries of larger buildings some seemed commercial, some were former mosques and Islamic schools. We wandered through a market with all manner of hand crafts and clothing-everything from Damascus swords to handsome karakul caps at very reasonable prices. Our leader could have taken a local bus home from this point, but I think he quickly sensed our concern about finding our way back. He walked us safely back to the hotel. The city has canals running along many of the streets and large open reservoirs in park settings. As one might expect, small boys were swimming in the inviting water, climbing into the surrounding trees and diving in with glee, until a policeman appeared, then they all scampered. I was set to take a photo of a boy who had climbed to the highest branch of an old dead tree. He was poised to dive and turned around and retreated. I thought he had lost his nerve, but it was the presence of the law. He was lectured by the policeman when he got down to earth. Shortly after the policeman left, the pond began to fill with boys again. That evening after an early dinner in the hotel our tour group was taken to the same area that a few of us had just visited. Boys were in the pond and women were doing their wash from stone steps leading down to the canal. We walked into what seemed to be the courtyard of an old mosque. It was no longer a mosque but a pleasant place for tea and entertainment. The fore-court served as a stage for an ethnic orchestra and various folk dancers and singers. The dancing was spirited with emphasis on graceful arm and hand movements as well as body twirling to cause full appreciation of the women's full skirts. One man did a very lively dance with kicks, jumps and finger snapping. All the while we sat shoeless on for a bygone splendor. At times we were able to just stand or sit around in the shade and absorb the significance of these old spaces, some were still functioning as Islamic institutions, some were converted to secular-commercial use, and some seemed to be forgotten. We visited a 13th century mosque that had been excavated from over twenty feet of rugs were not woven in Bokhara, but in neighboring Turkmenistan to the west. It could have been a province of the country of Bokhara in former times. We were driven the wrong way on narrow one way streets to finally stop and then walk several blocks to a large tree shaded park. This must have been a standard tourist walk as the way was lined oLi fwz, raSy- oVsv K SiJaV-U The ancient city of Bokhara, shown on a slightly outdated map, is located in southern Russia near Afghanistan. the typical elevated beds with little tables drinking tea and eating sweets. One could imagine having just arrived in a caravan and being entertained by a gracious host. The following day our city tour included a fraction of the city's , mosques, schools and antiquities. ' There was a feeling of nostalgia drifted sand. It was in good condition with intricate brick work. It now serves as a museum and contains the only real Bokhara carpets that were to be seen in the city. Our hotel had machine woven "orientaT carpets hanging on the wall that could have come from the looms of Belgium. The museum director told us that "Bokhara" ' with sidewalk stands reminiscent of the Koolaid stands kids would set up here when a few cents or a nickel was nothing to sneeze at In the center of the park stood a small, but exquisite temple or mausoleum from the twelfth century. It also had been dug out , Continued on B11 PSA r ALAMO DRAFT HOUSE Offering on old western style bar featuring a variety of hot sandwiches, like our philly or chicken cheese steak subs (the locals' favorite!) to our almost world-famous burgers. Midnight specials from 69 p.m. Live music and dancing. A private club for the benefit of members. 447 Main, 649 2380. ALEX'S French cuisine at casual prices. Now open everyday of the week for the summer season. We feature fresh seafood, beef, pork, lamb, veal, and vegetarian entrees. Appetizers Include escargot, gravtox, and cheese fondue. We are a UDABC Licensee. Available anytime for private parties and catering. Regular restaurant hours are 5 30 -9:30. Reservations accepted, walk-ins welcomed. 649 6644. BAJA CANTINA Cookln' since 1983 The wildest restaurant In Park City Is here! Located in the plaza entrance of the Park City Ski Area. We enjoy serving our amlgos good tasting, carefully prepared fresh foods of Mexico. Open for lunch and dinner daily from 1 1:30 a.m. with Sunday Brunch at 1 1 am. Call 649 BAJA (AMX, M.V). THE BARKING FROG GRILL "Our Interpretation of Southwest cuisine." Enjoy our bright and lively patio, as our chef prepares you dinner on our outdoor mesqulte grill. The aroma of our BBQ Baby Back Ribs and our famous Adobe Chicken Is certain to tantalize your senses Great nightly specials and a wonderful selection of desserts. Open for dinner Tuesday thru Saturday 5:30-10:00 pm. 366 Main Street. For reservations 649-6222. THE BISTRO ROYALE The philosophy at The Bistro Royale as "Simply The Best" is to bring our customer the finest food available matched with unparalleled service. This Is accomplished through careful selection and preparation of the choicest Ingredents and the Imagination of a young, dynamic and motivated team at The Bistro. . . It Is this shared philosophy that Christian Oesch. Chef and Proprietor proudly presents The Bistro Royale. Oyster Bar open at 4 pm. Dinner 6-1 0 pm Wed through Mon, Wednesday Trout Night Thursday New England Seafood Supper. Catering -Private Parties -Weddings. 1500 KearnsBlvd. 649-1799 THE BORDERLINE RESTAURANT New In v3, Mexican & American food. Formerly "Scully's" with the same menu (soups & salads), but now the new owners have spiced It up a little for you Mexican food lovers, with the cooks' many years of experience In the food Industry. Come on In and experience the great taste of REAL Mexican food. Located at 333 Main St., 2nd floor. Main Street Market Race. 649-8172 for take out, BURGIES Serving fresh ground hamburgers with waffle fries. Turkey burgers. Veggie burgers & chill, home made soups, salads, and chilies. Old fashion shakes. Kids menu. Weekly specials. Hosting private parties for any size. Hours: Ham- 10pm 570 Main 649-0011 CHEZ BETTY Owners Michael and Barbara Rapp offer Fine Food and Dining at Chez Betty In The Copperbottom Inn. Seasonally Influenced cooking together with a dedicated staff, provide a delicious evening In our comfortable Dining Room. On Deer Valley Drive off of Park Avenue next to Jans. Easy to reach by car or bus. Plenty of parking. 649-8181 649-8181 for reservations. 5:30 -10 pm. We are closed Tuesdays 8c Wednesdays during the summer. CISERO'S Cookln' sinct 1985 Fine Italian food carefully prepared and served to you at palatable prices. Lunch and dinner daily, bar menu served all day. Uve music, Wednesday - Saturday, Local Jam Night on Wednesdays. Dance floor. 306 Main Street. Restaurant 649-5044. Private club downstairs for benefit of members. Bar 649-6800. THE CLUB Located right next to The Alamo, remember? Featuring hot sandwiches like our chicken parm, or maybe our veggie burger. How about our spicy chicken wings or nachos to warm you up? Weeknlght dinner specials from 6-9 p.m. Live music and dancing. A private club for the benefit of members 449 Main, 649-6693. COYOTE GRILL We feature Southwestern and new classical cuisine with a variety of vegetarian items. With an effort to bring the finest Ingredients from around the country we use Florida seafood via Federal Express and steaks and chops from Stockyards of Chicago. Our dining room Is located In the Park City Resort Center with great views of the surrounding mountains. Open for lunch 1 1 :30 am to 4 00 pm Thursday thru Monday. Open for dinner Thursday thru Sunday 6:00 pm to 10:00 pm. Underground parking, UDABC licensee, Reservations accepted. 649-1180 THE EATING ESTABLISHMENT Let us make your day a special occasion. Join us for Park City's favorite breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Includes: Eggs Benedict, Huevos Rancheros. lox and bagel, and Belgian waffles served all day, as well as homemade soups, salads, and sandwiches, and of course, the best burger In Park City. Open every day 8 am. Dinner from 5:30 pm featuring bar-b-que specialities and other delectable selections. 317 Main St. 649-8284, ELCHEEPO The fun family restaurant at the top of Historic Main Street. Featuring Chef Atvin's daily Gourmet Dinner Specials, World-famous flame-broiled chicken! Fajitas! Ribs! Burgers! Salads! Jukebox! Plnball! Private party room! Nachos! Fun and more fun! Childrens menu, take out available! Polio Lounge now open. Complete dinners from $5.50 Dinner only from 5 to 10 p.m dairy. 1 1 p.m. Frl. Sat. 255 Main Street 649-0883 GLITRETIND Enjoy the Stein Eriksen Lodge's Glitretlnd Restaurant, featuring Contemporary European cuisine In an exquisite mountainside setting. Ala carte breakfast. 7:00 am to 10.00 am lunch, 1 1:30 am to 2:30 pm; drmer menu. 6:00 pm to 930 pm. Call for nightly bears speclds. Sunday brunch buffet with live Jazz music. 1 1 :00 am to 2:30 pm. Deck dining as weather permits. Utah's only recipient of The Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Reservations recommended, 645-6455 or 649-3700. GOLDENER HIRSCH Featuring an eclectic European menu In an authentic Salzburg ambiance. Enjoy the chefs specialties offered dairy and traditional Alpine cuisine in our dining room or on our outdoor deck. Located In the Golden er Hirsch Inn at Silver Lake Village In Deer Valey. Open Wed-Sat. Wed-Sat. lunch 1 1 :30-2:30 pm, dnner 6-10 pm and Sunday Brunch from 10-2 pm. 649-7770 GRUB STEAK RESTAURANT Located at Prospector Square, The Grub Steak features such beef specialties as Prime Rib, 21-day aged New York steak as well as fresh fish, seafood and chicken dishes. All entrees are complimented by a 35-ltem fresh salad bar, the dessert menu Includes our famous Mud Pie. Try our new lunch menu. Including our Salad and Sandwich Bar, Sunday brings Park City's favorite Brunch, don't miss It! Open for dinner dally from 5:00 to 10:00, lunch 1 1:30 to 2:00. Sunday Brunch 10:00 am to 2:00 pm, 649-8060. LEGENDS CAFE Park City's new family style restaurant serving our unique legendary taste temptations. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night until 3:00 cm, Located In the Gallerla Mai, 580 Main St. across from the Clalmjumper. Take-out and delivery. 649-9229. McHENRY'S GRILL AT DEER VALLEY Enjoy the casual atmosphere with scenic deck dining and a menu the entire family can enjoy. Serving creative appetizers, salads, specialty sandwiches and our famous Deer Vdley Burger. Children's and take-out menus available. Liquor and wine available. Lunch from 1 1 :30 am to 2:30 pm, Monday through Friday, and 1 1 :30 am to 5 00 pm, Saturday. Sunday and holidays. 645-6724. MILETI'S 4 1 2 Man Street, 649-82 1 1 . Family owned and operated since 1973. Miletl's has been a favorite with loeds and tourists for many years. The menu has evolved with attention to pleasing both the eye and palate and Includes creative homemade pasta specials, and traditional Italian fare. Join us on Historic Main Street as part of your Park City experience. AEMCV MOUNTAIN CHICKEN Rotlsserie Chicken, great side dishes, and specials. "The new restaurant that everyone's talking about." Located In Park City Plaza. 1 890 Bonanza Drive, across from the Buggy Bath in Prospector Square. We marinate the chicken In our special herb and spice mixture. It's served hot from the rotisserle. High quality take out food or dine In. We'll cater your next party or family gathering. Give us a call, we can usually arrange a party for up to 20 with a couple hours' notice. Open dally from 10:30 am - 9:00 pm. Call 645-8483. MOUNT AIR CAFE Park City's family restaurant famous for homemade pies, rolls and soups. Serving breakfast, lunch and dlnnef . and ddly specials. Banquets for parties up to 80. Takeout Take-out orders. Open 6 a.m. to midnight daily. 1900 Park Avenue. 649-9868. NACHO MAMA'S Come experience the unique local atmosphere at Nacho Manna's. We serve a creative Interpretation of popular Mexican-style Mexican-style dishes combined with unique regional specialties borrowed from throughout the Southwest. Featuring blue com tortillas as well as distinctive chilies imported from New Mexico, 1821 Sdewinder. next to the Olympia Hotel. 645-TACO. PAISANO'S Park City's new Northern Italian Restaurant. Located upstairs In the Park City Racquet Club, on the city bus route. Palsano's offers delicious salads, pasta dishes, chicken, veal, beef, and seafood dishes. Our chef offers a variety of specials dally. Kids menu avdlabie. Open daily for lunch and dinner, Already a locals favorite. Cdl us at 649-7742 for more Information or reservations. THE OLIVE BARREL FOOD CO. An Old World Trattoria & Market experience located mid mountain at Deer Vdley In the Silver Lake Village. The OBFC strives to achieve the principles of authentic Italian home-style cooking through the use of a wood-fired brick oven and grill, by using only the finest and freshest Ingredients avdlabie and by preparing tradtlonal dishes firmly rooted In Italy's prolific culture, bountiful land. and the simple sophistication of La Cucina Povera". 647-7777, Open Tues. - Sun, 1 1:30 am to 10:30 pm. THE RIVERHORSE CAFE 4 NEW ATRIUM Serving an eclectic Trans-continental cuisine. Each weekend performances by nationally acclaimed musicians meet extraordinary cuisine In Park City's most spectacular setting. Incredible seafood, salads, pastas and vegetarian dishes along with delicious nightly specials and a wide variety of desserts. Open 7 days a week for lunch 1 1 :30 am - 2:30 pm, and dinner 5:30 -10:00 pm. Also serving a relaxing full table service jazz brunch, each Sunday from 1 1 :00 am - 3:00 pm. 540 Main Street. For reservations 649-3536 SASSYS Park City's only Western Dinner Theatre, and all done In grand style. Savory homestyle cookln' includes mouth watering BBQ ribs and hearty beef stew with all the trimmings (vegetarian plate by request; steaks for slight extra charge). After dinner enjoy delightful singing, dancing and comedy with Sassy's own spicey brand of western musical theatre. An evening of hilarious and fun-filled family entertdnment, Located at 7 Race, 427 Historic Main Street. Call 647-9222 for showtlmes and reservations. SCROOGE'S Beginning our 12th yea m Park City and celebrating Christmas nightly. Scrooge's still features our tradtlonal home cooking with a lighter summer menu Including the popular 1 1 1 A lb. MAIN LOBSTER dinner for $ 1 3.99. Complete dinners from $7.99. Open Wednesday through Sunday from 5: 13 p.m 402 Historic Main Street. For Information and reservations mil A49-XMAS. WASATCH BREW PUB Located at the top of Historic Main Street. The Brew Pub features Its award-winning Wasatch beers and an outstanding selection of fine foods. Pub menu offered from 1 1 a.m., dinner menu offered evety night from 5 p.m. Upstairs Sports Bar with pool tables, darts, and foosball. 250 Main Street. 649-0900. Ample parking next to Brew Pub. THE YARROW Sensational offerings In our newty renovated restaurant. Enjoy fabulous specials like our Lunch Break - a great ded for $3.75. Prime Rib Buffet Friday and Saturday nights for $14.95. Sunset Steak Dinner nightly for $8.95. And don't miss our extraordinary Sunday Brunch for $14.95. Open dally 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. 649-7000. State Liquor Licensee x |