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Show I ,$' fit'' f . , Enter the gentleman's look. Men will never be dull again. l , The gentleman's look: return to elegance By K. FOLTZ jjQ, Chronicle Staff tlietsrnaby Street, mecca for the w kioncomformist and anti-I. anti-I. stablishment designers started he rebellion in men's fashion and '""'t quickly spread around the vorld. ulliii: t hiptarved for color and creativity, htfeien frantically began demanding astaLhe new look. Styles came and lite trent as rapidly as did the design-rs, design-rs, stores, "now" boutiques and eadshops multiplying and pyra-sroujhiding pyra-sroujhiding to accommodate the new-rt:reed new-rt:reed of consumers. - , , m,jver night, it became a costume dl arty-and everybody was invited. ro;'ivid colors blossomed on his b lirts, checks and plaids snaked tytleir way around his trousers, ,laiiliaptain America reigned supreme leaser1'' the male Peacock was soon rutting in his bizarre new glory. ,nd now, the party is over. Gone, raisre the stars, the red, white and Leiilue-gone are the bangles, the fcraubles and bells-gone, for a iitvtiile, is the long hair, the ilk shards, the Hollywood, the Fellini id the freak. sifhe gentleman has returned. Men tasjll never look dull again. Not rffith the variety of color and St:eativity growing ever younger black and white-two-tone shoes, multi-colored shirts and solid deept tone suites. When he returned, the gentleman brought with him his oldest and most trusted friend, the suit. Suits will have even wider lapels this year, covering the breast pocket. Suit jackets will be tailored to fit the body, and can be worn with a bright shirt and even brighter ties or a form-fitting, light ribbed tur-tleneck. tur-tleneck. The trousers are more comfortable as they've . gotten wider. The fabrics offer an infinite variety of choice-plaids, patterned pat-terned or solid wool, waled or unwaled cordory, velvet, suede, chamois, cotton and double knit. All of this in more subtle colors, browns and wines and combinations combina-tions of the two are the favorites of the designers. Coats have been designed with the gentlemen's comfort and needs in mind. For cold weather, the coats will be long and heavy. The double-breasted coat has remained as the favorite style throughout its constant reincarnations. For cooler weather, there will be the short jacket, reaching barely to the waist in WW II military tradition. Any color or fabric will do, the trick is zippered or flaped pockets and the freedom, abbreviation abbrevi-ation allows. Stftvitn endless imagination. No, jot iver dull again, but they are free, veio-ee to dress for the pure pleasure lilii! looking good and feeling com-' )fl,fc:rtable. --ne gentleman was never really ne. He was a constant presence 'neath the frantic era of the lmng of age of men's fashion. It i a necessary era, man needed ! break the bonds of white and "mess-grey. But the gentleman b returned in color, modified ld quiet, confident in his 'ength and individuality. Jh his return, he has brought "est of what the party had to rer. The knit fabrics, because of w wnnkle-free, comfortable fit. 'e suit with a versatility which s the Jket to be used as a orts coat and the trousers as an Pair of pants. Turtleneck 0 eaters are back with a longer , collar. Shoes are heavier, 1 Reeled and indulgent. d rywhere, there's color, the jt guest :at the party-vintage mixed with brown and Hats are a hold over, or rather, a return. The funk is gone, the remodeled traditional, taking its place. Whether bowler or panama, the brims will be substantially wider, colors will be deep. The racing cap is back too, in plaids and a myriad of colors. The agony of sitting for hours in too-tight pants has ended. Common Com-mon sense prevails and pants are wider, cuffs are back and big and the pleat has wandered home. Sweaters, because of their ease, comfort and line are still around. With the advent of synthetics, sweaters are wash and dry, making them an economical addition to the gentleman's wardrobe. Color is the word for sweaters, with the length varying from the very long, to the short shrink sweaters. Patterns, Pat-terns, geometries and raindeer prints, contrast an otherwise subtle sub-tle wardrobe. The gentleman has returned and the party, the quiet, elegant party, has just begun. |