Show protection COATS THEY ARE MADE OF OLD WOOLEN RAGS GROUND UP 1 I s lon raw naw goolt anti and manu woolen compel tile working oon to wear war clothes ilow article ii caje darins the whole period of tariff dis cassion no lie point i so much atten atlan tion lion from public speakers antl and writers and aid aroused so much interest among th people as the effect V which bich our outrageous duties upon raw wool and manufactured manufacture 6 woolens liis has upon tile wool raisin raisins ili austry of the countey ou tho alio ono liand and the quality of tho the clot clothing bill worn ba b alio musses oil it tile the other the shepherds who defend ec protection declared that tho doty raw i wool ool alone stood between tho wooi growels anil and destruction and nd that hat tin duties upon manufactured woolen served to competition among ow oni manufacturers and thus give tile the penpit cheaper an anil 1 be better ater clothing than the could possibly get in ili any other way tho the friends of tariff reform c time ard and again that the result of ahm duties was most grievous that they do de st strayed rocil the demand for doi domestico dome stio wool which would otherwise la be used in largo larg quantities iu in ad mixtures with nith fo forcini rel t wools and at the same time encouraged tho the manna manufacture of shoddy one of tho the most interesting con tribu lions made in ili support of tile claim that thai shoddy has taken the place of mr do jestic grown wool in ili ilia manufacture cloth carpets etc is an article wiit tei by mr ar W E D estell and printed in all november supplement of tho new world sir estell is an agent of thi th new york reform club and under it direction made an exhaustive examina tion of the shoddy business ho Ile visited seve several ral states and some soine of tho the largest manufacturing establishments in the country it if not in the lie world principle principio pIc among these being the great shoddy establishment of hausser ausber ausser sons located at cleveland clr ir ebdell goes into the question thor their hughly bubly beginning N with ith the gathering ol of every description of rags from the 2 nev tailor clippings clip pinga to the filthy ol of old clot clothing lung gathered from every conceivable cei vable source tells liow how they are arc sorted according to quality and color packed it in largo large bales by the local dealers then thea sol sold to the manufacturers of shoddy the processes employed in converting the rags into shoddy are described I 1 in adint an interesting manner accompanied by illustrations of the machinery used shoddy of the best quality is is mail made e from newall new all wool rags the rags are torn into shreds by means of a revolving cylinder called the devil covered with b thousands of short sharp teeth sc close do these resemble real wool that detection is almost impossible the shoddy is mixed with a little live Ilive wool into inta yarn and made into the a all wool suits we hear so much about manufacturers thus foist upon the american people clothing which lias has been worn out before by four or five different people the last lippe arance of shoddy as clothing is in the form of sati nets the admix of cotton arid and shoddy out of which our 5 3 suits of clothing clochin aro are made E ei en then wo we sirs not cot rid wit of it for it is put through mother another process by which it is is ground fine as dust after which it is called flocks flock sand and usei used for fillin filling the cheap mattresses and pillows which cht the 11 e poorer people buy clr estell also tells low how the rags in which wool and cotton are ara mixed are I 1 subjected to various processes which have for their object tho the destruction of the cotton thus lem lea ing the wool though in an all imp impaired ired condition yet fit to be torn into shoddy the union goods as such rags are called are bathed iu in aad in fit borne instances and exposed to gasino enss in others tho acids and gas cat the cotton or other vegetable fibers leaving wool I 1 extracts woo shoddy and wool extracts aro are made into yarn and woven into cloth but since duties have made foreign fine wools bo high that none but the rich can affel d a genuine all wool suit matle made of soft wools many devices have been introduced to supply the demands for low lov priced imitation fine v woul suits one way of making cheap cheal coats is ia to run tho the cloth perhaps already half shoddy through 11 a flock c liquor containing gainin wool dust the dust adheres to tho the sui EUI face and is pressed firmly into the cloth by being bein passed be between tween largo large aulls another way of giving a soft velvety texture ani and of adding to the alio weigh of cloth consists of flattening flatte ning the yarn yam this ia accomplished by blowing flocks and fine shoddy against the threads while they aro are acin being twisted into yarn of coul couise so cloth made of such stuff lias has its faults these however are hidden from froin the unwary purchaser r in in various ways the flocked or bulled ful led sides of the alio cloth are pasted to together gither and the cloth clot is worked ill ii into ready made clothing with openings s left le ft in ili tile lower corners of the coats cents to pi ili event accumulations of fl flocks flachs and alli shoddy ir estell esac ll shows how abo growth of the Eli shoddy cAldy industry hia has kept pace with the decline of the wool kaiang indest im lii liistro stry ry and by from the manu manuec fac of shoddy alic ves proved that shoddy hoddy fc and not net free wool is the enemy of thet ali wool raiders rs of america MCM lac n nimr as mr ot of cleveland land the largest manufacturer of shoddy in america AmeTi eft if not in the frankly raid said that the he admission of foreign wool into this country would mean the destruction of the luling business arid and butr be ater prices to the american sheep glowers for their wool it is the high price because of tariff which our american clothing 0 manufacturers must pay for tho the f foreign 0 I 1 eign wool N w inch aich is indispensable to the manufacturers of good clothe claths that drives them to the use of shoddy instead of native wool an examination of the statistics relating in to the price of wool and the price of fit shoddy as given by the american wool and cotton ne Ile shows that every ery upward f tile manufacturer bof I 1 hoddy 1 iiren been followed by a decline ot aba I 1 he price of american wools while prices or of bous bogus wools havo have been wll will maintained prices of real wools wool have gone ilo do rapidly and until tile the election of when the lowest prices on i ecord decord were reached since then real wools are in better demand and prices have recovered several cents per poun pound l with free wool oar 0 ar ir shoddy manufacturers may lo 10 expected to take a back vent feat and leave room fur for ol 01 claths cloths clot hs in ili a f few e v our failers and laborers will b indulging in as comfortable clothing and blankets blink ets as are now common in nearly every other cold aud anti civilized country |