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Show THE WHEA WHEAT T AND EMERALDS EMERALDSNew Ne-"v Ne "v v New - " Russia Puts Past Behind Her-Halliburton Her Halliburton - Doubts DoubtsPeople DoubtsPeople People Will Be Forever Satisfied With Wheat ; Holds HoldsEmeralds HoldsEmeralds Emeralds as Big a Part of Life as Bread . 9K ro aLL- aLL aLLEs : ' : - _ : , Y r rrM rM r Es Esy EsY Esr y 9 / r Y , . J a aGr Gr ' ; ; : , yv 4 4ti ti tigek gek > \ r ry's y's ys ' t , eayypy 4 j/ j jr / r + 'i i ' . . ' $ + a 43 43k 43ww Y ' fG4 % ? y ' A + 6 3 y ylk lk 'R R ' aN k ww wwL L ywwvlv . . .n"w .nw nw . " .rr rr . . V VN N N tl-"Nw tl "Nw Nw tl"Nwa - " a 4 , 4 6 S Sr St t r as { d rr w f B Byv4 y yw"Y w"Y wY " 3S a aE E ( b bp yv4 N y ' { f fM M , p ; ; , N r r rf f ' X yt 9 " These photographs by Richard alllburton Halliburton Illustrate the metamorphosIs wluch which has oscrcome 0 ' crcome St . Petersburg Petersburgsmce Petersburgsince smce since the formatIon of the communist go goy , ernmcnt ermncnt : 1 . SovIet workers make themselves at home in the parks parksnd parksand \nd nd and ' \ palaces whIch once belonged C exclusively cluslvely to royalty . 2 . SymboUo Symbolle of the old Russia they know nothmg nothing about aboutare aboutare are the statues around whICh these y } oung SovIets gather . 3 . A group of RussIan students . By RIC RICHARD ARD HALLIBURTONAuthor HALLIBURTONAuthor HALLIBURTON HALLIBURTONAuthor Author ofuThe of "The The uThe " Royal Road to toRomance toRomance toRomance Romance , " Etc EtcT . THE SHE /T T / storyJL HE most important story storyill storym m ill the world today-and today and todayandthe today - andthe the most interesting-Is interesting Is interesting - is Rus Rus- RusS18 Rus- Rus Russia Russia - - sia S18 . This is not a phrase from fromthe fromthe fromthe the Soviet propaganda book booknor , nor the outburst of a parlor parlorpmk parlorpink parlorpink pmk pink . It is my own opmlOn opinion opinionand , and no one could be more morethoroughly morethoroughly morethoroughly thoroughly American , nor normore normore normore more of a champion champlOn of the theright theright theright right to live and pursue hap hap- happmess happiness happiness - piness pmess in one's ones ' own mannercontrary manner mannercontrary mannercontrary ( contrary to the Soviet sys- sys system sys sys- system system - tem ) than myself . Riding into Leningrad from the theairport theairport theairport airport , , I passed along streets streetsturned streetsturned streetsturned turned upside down with pavement pavementconstruction pavementconstruction pavementconstruction construction , and tiv \ walled \ alled with scaf- scaf scaffoldmg scaffolding scat-folding scat folding - foldmg folding behind behmd which wluch new factories factoriesand factoriesand factoriesand and apartments were rising rlsmg ten sto- sto storIes stories sto stones - - nes rIes high My motor car had to toplow toplow toplow plow through dense throngs of ofbusy ofbusy ofbusy busy , hurrying hUl'rying hUlrying ' pedestrians , for ill in illthe inthe inthe the fury of the new enthus13sm enthusiasm enthusiasmwork , work goes on 24 hours a day Thenoise The Thenoise Thenoise noise of the traffic , the concrete concretemlXers concretemixers concretemixers mlXers mixers , the steam rollers , the steel steelrIveters steelriveters steelriveters rIveters , . was deafening-and deafening and deafening - and sweet sweetl sweet sweetlIt ! ! It took me a ! full ull day to dig down downunder downunder downunder under all this mass of steel , , trucks trucksand , and swarming swarmmg workers who are arebuIldmg arebuilding arebuilding buIldmg building Leningrad Lenmgrad , to find what I Ireally Ireally Ireally really had come to see-St see St see--St see - - - St Peters Peters- Petersburg Petersburg Petersburg - burgAristocracy burgAnstocracy burg Aristocracy Anstocracy Built Bullt Culture . The capital ot of old Russia v w . wasone as asone asone one of the noblest , most beautiful beautifulcltles beautifulcities beautifulcities cltles cities on earth It had spaClOusness spaciousness spaciousnessdignity , dlgmty dignity , leisure , . wealth , power . . Pe Pc Peter Pe- Pe Peter - . ter the Great , , who built bUllt it on marsh marshislands marshislands marshislands islands at the head of ot the Gulf Gut ! of ofFmland ofFinland ofFinland Fmland Finland , had no less vigor and andimagmahon andimagination andimagination imagmahon imagination than the worker's workers ' ' coun- coun councIlmen councilmen coun-cilmen coun cilmen - - cIlmen of today . With a \ wave \ ave of ofhIs ofhis ofhis hIs hand he swept aside all obstaIles obsta obsta- obstacles obstacles - cles Iles to create public publ1c squares of ofenormous ofenormous ofenormous enormous area , and surround them themWIth themwith themwith WIth public pubhc buildings bwldmgs that are the thelargest thelargest thelargest largest and most lavish m in Europe EuropeThe EuropeThe EuropeThe The richest class of people in lD the theworld theworld theworld world during durmg the Eighteenth and andNmeteenth andNineteenth andNineteenth Nmeteenth Nineteenth centuries , the RussIan RussIanI RussIannobility Russiannobility Russiannobility I nobility , , . flocked fioched to St St . . PetersburgEach Petersburg PetersburgI PetersburgIach PetersburgEach I Iach Each : noble tried to outdo his neigh neighbor neighbor neighbor bor in the construction of palaces palacesand palacesand palacesand and in his show of splendor . In InI Inthis Inthis I thIS competition competlbon the czars kept well wellin wellin , in front , spending spendmg money and nnd gath gath- gathI gathermg gathermg gathering - ering ermg treasures to an extent incom mcom- mcom incom- mcomprehenslble incomprehensible incomprehensible - I , prehensible prehenslble to us today . i The resulting resultmg magnificence mngmflcence , bwlt built bwlton builton builton on the anguish angUlsh and enslavement of ofthe ofthe ofthe the masses , shone with a blmdmg blinding blmdmgl1ght blindinglight blindinglight l1ght light . , The Russian aristocracy de developed developed developed veloped taste , culture , sophistica sophIstica- sophIstication sophistication sophistication - - tion They became dlstmgwshed distinguished dlstmgwshedthroughout distinguishedthroughout distinguishedthroughout throughout all other countries fortheir for fortheIr fortheir theIr regal manners , their extrava extrava- extravagance extravagance extravagance - - gance . , their thetr Incomparably beautiful beautifulwomen beautifulwomen beautifulwomen women and lordly men The great great- greatcst greatest greatest - est cst collection of pictures outside the theLouvre theLouvre theLouvre Louvre found their way to the Her Her- Hermitage Hermitage Hermitage - mitage gallery , the music of Tschai- Tschai Tschaikovsky Tschaikovsky Tschal-kovsky Tschal kovsky - - kovsky and Rimsky-Korsakot Rimsky Korsakot Rimsky-Korsakof Korsakof - ( de- de despite despite de despite - - spite his radical tendencies ) flowed flowedfrom flowedfrom 1 1from from every orchestra . , The art ot of otballet ofballet ofballet ballet dancing became a Russian RussianI Russianmonopoly Russianmonopoly Russianmonopoly I monopoly . St Isaac's Isaacs ' cathedral , , an anI anarchitectural anarchitectural anarchitectural I architectural wonder of the first firstmagnitude firstmagnitude firstmagnitude magnitude , rose ! from rom the marsh marsh- marshlands marshlands - . lands Summer palaces were builtto bUIlt bUIltto builtto to rival Versailles In splendor . , . Em Em- Emeralds Emeralds Emeralds - eralds big as hen eggs glittered glitteredtrom glitteredfrom glitteredfrom trom from the crowns of ot Russian queens queensIn queensIn queensIn In the art and the grace graee of fine fineliving fineliving fineliving living , St Petersburg , right up to to1914 1914 . , led the great capitals of the theearth theearth theearth theearthSplendor earth earthSplendor earthSplendor Splendor Recalls Recalb Czars . . All this Is gone , utterly , irretriev lrretnev- lrretnev irrctriev- irrctriev irrctrievably lrretnevably irretrievably - ably , vanished Leningrad Lemngrad hates hatesdefames hatesdefames , defames , jeers at whnt what she used t to tobe tobe be , Just rust ] ust as the revengeful and andblnody andbinody andbloody blnody binody fisted peasant women jeered 1 I I at Mane MarIe Antoinette Antomette on her way to tothe tothe tothe the guillotine gU1llotme , because , , like the theczars theczars theczars czars , she had starved them in or- or order order or order - der to create immortal grandeur . On my first night in Leningrad I Iwent Iwent Iwent went to the Marmsky Marinsky theater to see seea seea seea a ballet , "The The " Hunchbacked Horse Horse"I HorseI . " I felt a real surge of excitement excitementThIs excitementThis excitementThis ThIs theater was almost holy holyground holyground holyground ground Here the most exalted of ofthe ofthe ofthe the old regime gathered to hear hearglorIous hearglorious hearglorious glorIous Russian music and watch watchincomparable watchincomparable watchincomparable incomparable Russian dancing dancmg To Toattend Toattend Toattend attend the MannsLy Marmsl.y Marmsly . , the nobility nobilitydonned nobilitydonned nobihtydonned donned their richest nchest jewels , theIr theIrwhItest theirwhitest theirwhitest whItest gloves , their most lavIsh lavIshgowns lavishgowns lavishgowns gowns and un uniforms orms Here the czar czarand czarand czarand and czarina czarma with Wlth their tilelr son and anddaughters anddaughters anddaughters daughters came frequently , . to sit sitm sitin sitin m in the Imperial box A more glit glIt- glItterIng glittering glittering - tering , royal gathering gathermg has not been beenseen beenseen beenseen seen elsewhereNo elsewhereNo elsewhere elsewhereNo No tneater taeater theater have I ever seen as asbeaut asbeautiful asbeautiful beaut beautiful ul as the Marmsky Marinsky . The Thewalls Thewalls Thewalls walls are covered with yellow dam dam- damask damask damask - ask , and each seat In the orchestra orchestrais is an individual mdlvldual arm chair uphol upholstered upholstered upholstored stered with the same rich silk At Atthe Atthe Atthe the back is the Imperial bO box , and on onthe onthe onthe the sides the smaller boxes bo'tes botes " ' : of the thegrand thegrand thegrand grand dukos dukes The decoration has hasfaded hasfaded hasfaded faded very little since smce they sat satthere satthere satthere satthereInto there thereInto Into this regal auditorium audltorlUm the new newmasses newmasses newmasses masses were pouring pourmg Some had on onno onno onno no coats , some had shirts but no nonecktIes noneckties noneckties necktIes , only half hat ! the men had hadshaved hadshaved hadshaved shaved that day Not one woman womanwore womanwore womanwore wore anything anythmg but the plainest plainestcheapest , , cheapest , sack Like 11ke dress Not a ajewel ajewel ajewel jewel , not a flower ilower , not a graceful gracefulathtude gracefulattitude gracefulattitude athtude attitude , not a beaut beautiful ul person A AsaIlor Asailor Asailor saIlor and his girl gtrl sat on one sIde sIdeot sideof sideof ot of me Two slovenly students In Incolorless incolorless incolorless colorless wool blouses sat behind behmd InI ; I next them , two women with gold goldteeth goldteeth i iteeth teeth who were probably street car carconductors carconductors carconductors conductors or brick layers From Fromthe Fromthe Fromthe the Imperial box leaned six labor labor- laborers laborers laborers - ers , probably from the shoe fac fac- factory factory - tory , eating eatmg pastry . The mUSICIans musiciansin in the orchestra wore wool shirts shirtsand shirtsand shirtsand and no neckties No class con con- consCIousness consciousness consciousness - sciousness anywhere-and anywhere and anywhere - - and mdeed indeed mdeedwhy indeedwhy indeedwhy why should there bel bet Bverybody Everybody Bverybodypresent Everybodypresent Everybodypresent present was a peasant farmer or ora ora ora a factory worker or a soldier or a asaIlor asailor asailor saIlor . There is no other class left leftm leftin leftm m in Russia All others have been beene'C.iled beenexiled beenexiled e'C.iled eC.iled eCiled exiled ' . or etermmatedThe exterminatedThe e\tcrmmated e tcrmmated e-termmated termmated exterminated etcrmmatedThe \ , - The ballet , I am happy to re- re report report re report - - port , was superlatively good Here HereIS Hereis IS one czanst czarist art the proletarIans proletarIanshave proletarianshave proletarianshave have not let die Magnificent Magmficent cos- cos costumes costumes cos costumes - - tumes and color and light and skIll skIllfiashed skillflashed skillflashed fiashed flashed from the stage for four fourhours fourhours tourhours hours The audience ate apples all alldurmg allduring allduring durmg during the performance OtherwIse OtherwIsethey Otherwisethey Otherwisethey they were well behavedSatisfied behaved behavedSatisfied Satisfied Sahsfied With Barest Necessities . , The violent vlOlent transformation of Len Len- Lenmgrad Leningrad Leningrad - ingrad mgrad proletarianis from imperial to proletarwn proletarian proletarwnIs proletarianis Is evident on every side . . The ducal ducalpalaces ducalpalaces ducalpalaces palaces , run down and woe begone begoneare , are now workers worl.ers worlers . ' apartments The TheYusupov TheYusupov TheYusupov Yusupov palace where Prince Prmce Felixmurdered reluc relucmurdered reh rehmurdered murdered Rasputin Rasputm is a house 'house ' of ofculture ofculture ofculture culture and rest " for teachers The Thegreat Thegreat Thegreat great suburban estates have been beenturned beenturned beenturned turned into pleasure grounds where wherethe wherethe wherethe the workers go to escape the des des- desperately desperately desperately - perately crowded quarters in wluch which wluchthey whichthey whichthey they live l1ve l1veThe liveThe liveThe The old Nevsky Prospect , now nowcalled nowcalled nowcalled called the Prospect of October 25 25once 25once , once one of the smartest and richest rich rich- richest - : est streets in the world , , is now one oneof oneof oneof of the dmgl dingiest ( st True , three tImes tImesas timesas timesas as many people parade it as be- be before before be before - fore , but they are dressed insacks in sacks sacksInstead sacksinstead sacksinstead Instead copecksto eopeclrsto of furs , and have copecks eopeclrs to spend instead of gold roubles roublesThe roublesThe roublesThe The shops that once offered oiIered only the thebest thebest thebest best and the most beautiful are arenow arenow arenow now poverty stricken , half empty emptyand emptyand emptyand and displaying displaymg only the cheapest cheapestand cheapestand cheapestand and most unattractive unattrachve goods No Nomdlvldual Noindividual Noindividual mdlvldual individual shop keeping is allowed allowedEvery allowedEvery allowedEvery Every place is state owned and andstate andstate andstate state supplied supphtd Taste and qual1ty quality qual1tyare qualityare qualityare are incredibly bad There arc are book bookstores bookstores bookstores stores , but only revolutionary his- his historIes his histories - . tories tortes boughtThere and treatises can be bought There are cinema cmema houses-but houses but houses - but only political . , Soviet glorifying films fUms can canbe canbe canbe be shown . It seems to me that the SovIets SovIetsdIscourage Sovietsdiscourage Sovietsdiscourage dIscourage their people from hav hav- having having having - ing anything anythmg more than the barest barestnecessIties barestnecessities barestnecessities necessIties Clothes , flowers , mo mo- motor mo- mo motor motor - - tor cars , simple romantic entertain entertam- entertam entertain- entertamment entertainment entertainment - ment ment . , are |