Show I I i i r rI I 1 I t I J. y WOMAN J I t I r r rr I r BY JOSEPH ff Fifth Avenue v Ne York 1 CREATOR OF AMERICAN FASHIONS If the coat t and wraps that have been designed for this thia fall fail hil to fascinate the mo mot most discriminating woman then there thore ia je 8 no pleasing her for it see ema quite quit hopeless that a 8 more a collection shall over ever be brought out ut and certainly there is to so mu much h variety that that any one oue should be able to make make- a entirely satisfactory Materials are rich u 1 and an and d many miny unusual ones onn there are Te to mingle with those that we have known season in and aud season out and a as might be expected ex when so 80 much liberty is I. ai al- aimed med there ther are rare and weird weid corn com In the sketch I have demonstrated A d tho the general a character of the new models mod moa els cIa by 01 two which are re suitable eith either f for er daytime or evening The first Ant is 15 of tel steel beaded chiffon cloth a durable quality qualitY- I so o w well rell lined that with it ita colf collar col col- col- col f lar r and cuffs eutia of gray RT fox fox with an 32 its ite ta lightness and grace au it i is il warmth th ing The rho lines of it are wonderful accented ac so t by the tha tiny tinT long loni curving folds fold into which the chiffon falls as a heavier heavier ier ler fabric could not and yet withal keeping to a trig directness that actually actu actu- ally smacks of fine tailoring Personally Person Perin- ally any I am tremendously pleased with th the model which is original The second design n represent one of oftie tie the e most moat practical of coats coati one in which beauty has n not t been sacrificed to utility Its It material is il black brocaded cut ut v velvet with blue to fox for collar and de and the richness of lie ita fabric combined with the touch of severity se so- verity arity in the cut effects a 8 happy compromIse compromise com cent promise between the tho wrap wray that thai is exclusively exclusively ex ex- for day dy or evening wear Velour de do laine lame o broche and the innumerable ble materials material ll that tb-at are ars of at similar nature make up a a- remarkable assortment to draw from but velvet is bound to overshadow al all others other in it Its vogue But after all aU it is is' not so much mucha a matter of material a as aa it is of ot color tb that t stamps the coats of this year with th the hallmark of success success color color lor and line for the range of ot tones and sud shades is complete completo as never before The dyers must have taxed their powers power t to the utmost to accomplish them theta Pom and geranium are favorites favor favor- ites In Tn fact red rod has bas been played upon his this year more than an any other color A nd more ore 8 satisfactorily Besides Beside e red fJ 6 less used in recent years yeara eara returns as a novelty Gray too never was more expressive and will wilI be a great et fa La olite Then when blue is worn in daytime it is very dark dark midnight dark midnight ht and cloud tones toe but but but all 11 of the It old old l es will be teen seen for evening Under Unar the pres present nt regime it is so 0 possible so often the brillian brilliancy y of the bright colors that even een the most mOlt eon conservative woman will find that she can adopt them with im jut- C Coats ats it may be said ar are ana of two classes so 0 far a as their style goes goes goes- those which are draped and those thole which tend to straight lines The former nat nit are are seen sen in evening wraps though not by any means ex cx- Adaptation of shoulder tape capes wi will figure gure upon street treet coats One of these has a i cape consisting of two circular sections section one three inches deeper dupel than the oth other r started under the tho arms arm and aud taken take in with the under arm arni seam eam From there it encircles the shoulders shoulder era falling down to the waist line Sometimes Some Same times time the cape tape instead of ot hu hugging bugging ns the neck is mounted to the coat cost underneath a wide flat fat collar of some cont contrasting material the collar finishing just over the sho shoulders where it is met and the line of 01 it continued by tabs of its exact enet width Another Another adaptation comprises a clr- clr cular section swung from front the neck at the be back to fall in ripples ripple le h between tween the shoulders but owed narrowed into tabs that just fit t the space pace aee between the neck and sleeves at the e shoulders and continues in revere revers down the fronts hont The latter model Ss s remarkably fetching in fur or velvet and bound to be b becoming omin Transparencies have proved too alluring aunt in In ing to be fe passed up easily hence the effort on the tle part of the designers ers to evolve evol model for br winter in which these ethereal fabric can be utilized utilised without appearing Incongruous The mode sketched I consider one of the cleverest r and there thero is also a model in which a tP fauna tance e chiffon is I superimposed on silver r and brocade and finished with witha a lar large e collar conar of af the new imitation allver all sil ver for forand and wide sleeve leev bands band of taupe velvet elvet Tb The cloak is made with a hirr line Une rn run nna lo the sleeves cleave and across the beck back and ma th tb then rn ha b bus the fumeS drawn prawn into a band of ot velvet at the bot hot tom torn confining it thereby to the narrow width that is le still lUll required in garments armenti of all typos types Tho Too or cadel are preferably made up in such men a way war as to display their beauty beau beau- ty and effectiveness to the best beet ta tage e and arid for this the wrap rap around style seem seems best suited or after that the straight ht cloak effects Whore Where it i i is de de- SUed sired to wear the wrap with different costumes black is always most practicable ab e and in the brocades brocaded or velvets pIcK black never nover was more ore Charmin charming than it is it this year A hana handsome bJ black k e coat now in our workrooms workroom is of panne velvet with lining of ot ivory satin ratin It fastens over o the hi nip with a monstrous ornament of ot I satin tin and has its ftc length completed with a ft band fifteen inches deep that is composed com Corn posed of alternate rows rowl of shirred ye velvet vel vel- vet e e and sable labIa Collars Collar and nd cuffs are of f- f the velvet f A A. delightful fad tad that will II catch this this' winter is the wearing of broad scads fl some aone of them a yard rd wide They are wrapped about the figure figura in spiral iral fashion Bom Sometimes they are of fur with beautifully shirred shined or fanciful Un lining and a again in they are of a soft oft ilk ilik velvet o or cl chiffon edged edited all around with mth fur or They are areso so se broad and ar are arc wound about in such sucha a a. a way that they appear at first glance I regular coats of a very verr attract attractive o do do- sign eign They are aTe expected to have hae a 8 pro pronounced pro pro- v vogue vogus but they cannot of 1 course be coun counted ed U upon OD to fulfil the of flea fice of o- o s a coat in the wardrobe bein being I merely It useful and ornamental s as an al al- 1 I c I T J ir I p p f 1 4 16 tj I t I.- I. J su iv t tI I t. t 4 I I j p j H 1 4 i A J a d h Both d day 1 and evening wraps are of richest heat materials |