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Show How I Uncle I Sam Guards , A Supply of Frozen Food by y Scientific Tests in Department of Agriculture !-c '1 i v - ' - J J.v-wM rev- ' . X v " t ; f'-' v. tjv v .. . r' ' ' w V;. ( '; -V s x - in a hundred chose' ?T'r " ,N , f Sj'rj)', Xj S. " th thirteen per cent. Sw . T. . '" " . ; t,'V, ' . It wlU be understood thatS ' v , V. " 1 In each iniUnee the three mixeiV "1 v ' t ,-.- ' J f J F were ctl7 .like. ve for the pWS ' , - A, tlORCU FORCl I eentacei of a (ingle ingredient Summed j .. ' ' rl - up, the trials showed a .decided prefer- f ' C ' ' tH7 flaer art Jen foinf to ha ? ence on the part of the American public -- , yy wt art u nafon tf ;c$ atam fnr titm r)mt anil awmtllt Ire cream. 1 . i best Only' ten tOs,. in a hundred chose Sfel th thirteen per cent. TT m It will be understood that .. In each instance the three mixea were exactly alike, save for the per centaffes of a single ingredient Summed up, the trials showed a .decided preference prefer-ence on the part of the American public for the richest and sweetest ice cream. Also,' as th result of another test, it waa proved that the prefeienc of a large majority is for ice cream that is Arm in textur. To make it firm, one-half one-half of one per cent of gelatin was used In the mix. Three in every Jour purchasers pur-chasers preferred the ice cream that had gelatin in it ' Housewives who make their own ice cream commonly as for this purpose so-called "ice-cream powders," which contain gelatin, gum arable or some equivalent They coagulate th ice cream, stabilize it, and prevent ic crystals crys-tals from forming. 'THE laboratory at th Department of Agriculture is an ice-cream factory In miniature. It employs only on machine, ma-chine, which is a metal, cylinder set horizontally. Correctly described, 1t is a cylinder inside of a cylinder.' Th inner cylinder, holding the mix, contains a paddle which is caused to revolve rapidly by an electric motor, and sur- . - . i ..... Scientists tell us that the tast i for intoxicating beverage and ths sweet tooth that demands its ice cream or candy are anal-, ogous therefore, the absence of vinous spirits, due to prohibition, pro-hibition, may have whole lot to do with the abnormal in-, in-, crease in the consumption of ice cream. Instead of the - "Face on the Barroom Floor" . it ia now the "Face in the Sweet Shop Window" Thus ordinary commercial ic cream lacks a proper proportion of butter fat and is correspondingly less rich. Solids other thsn butter fit, contained in th condensed milk or milk powder, sre made to tak th place of part of the normal allowance of butter fat They ax per- " ' , , : Hokey Pokey! ' "" i '1 V V Wt art a nation ict cream taltru ' j La$t year ate our timet at much ict I ,'.f.i crtam a Hi in 1914. In seven ysari A . - -C- , . ' ztmmcrcial production incrtatti nearly 300 ' j per cent A j In At city of AT York it k tttimatei that 60.000.000 quartt of ict cream art . . ' comumeJ annually, or a per capita con ' , . . mmplion of mart than ten quartt. Applied f ' to iht fciole population the continental W ' tmW Stales tnal srouW t .000.000.000 j . ' quartt of ict cream from one tummet to In next S : '3 -. ! SV7-v ' v . -. , , : Hokey Poey! ' "" i '1 V V Wt art a nation of ict cream eater i. j La$t yeaf ate four timet at much ict "t . iv i J cream at did in 1914. In seven years A . - -C- , . ' commercial production incrtated nearly 300 i ' j per cent A j In At city of AT York it k utimaUd that 60.000.000 quartt of ict cream art . . ' contumed annually, or a per capita con' ' , . . mmplion of mart than ten quartt. Applied f ' lo th fciole population of the continental W ' tmW Slales lno srouW t .000.000.000 f ' ' quartt of ict cream from one tummet to th next S : Wi '' l'-X. ) VyHY Is th price of butter so high? , Because people cat so much Ice cream. Ic cream, in a market sense, is butter's but-ter's most formidable rival. Th butter fat in milk fetches a much bigger profit when sold in ice cream than when sold as butter. If nobody ate Ice cream, th available supply of butter would be vastly greater, and it would be correspondingly cheaper. W ar a Nation of ic cream eaters. That might have beemtruly said, indeed, ten years ago, befor th war. But sine then consumption of the delicacy in this country has increased astonishingly-According to figures newly published by th United States Census Bureau, w Americana ate about four times as much ice cream last year as w did in 191. In seven years, from 1914 to 1921, commercial com-mercial production of th cold stuff in this country increased 281 per cent Th value of th total output In 1914 wss $55,988,000; in 1921, it was $213,-262,000. $213,-262,000. So important has th industry become that recently the Department of Agriculture Agri-culture undertook to make a scientific study of ice cream, with a view to reducing re-ducing to definite certainty and correctness correct-ness th methods of its manufacture; and th job, appropriately enough, was handed over to the Dairy Division., A small laboratory has been established estab-lished for the purpose, and for a number of weeks past it has been turning out thirty gallons of ice cream daily, under the direction of Owen E. Williams. That is to say, ten gallons of on kind of "mix," ten gallons of another kind, and ten gallons of a third kind. It ia always vanilla ice cream. Th object in view .is not to compare flavors, which are matters of individual teste, but to find out just what ingredients tnake th best mix. Thus, for a series f days, th mix was mad with thre different percentages of butter fat; another an-other series of dayj with three different -percentages of sugar, and so on. T)UT how determine which was best? Th expert in charge could not rely upon his own judgment; for th aim was to find out what would be most agreeable to the palates of ice-cream eaters in general The test was easily 'made by selling th stuff to employes of the department at th luncheon hour daily. To each purchaser a free sample was allowed of each of the three kinds, for a taste, and record was made of the kind chosen and bought The employes paid for weekly coupon tickets, entitling th holder to half a pint per diem. It was a test of palatability a practical prac-tical method of trying the product out upon th consumer. The number of U - XtT, ' Freckles and ic cream cones seem to have a natural affinity, and a close study of a small boy, with adequate capital, explains the tremendous consumption of hokey , pokey ' i . men have been put out of business by the ice-cream manufacturers, 'who pay higher prices for cream than th butter men can afford to giv. Ice cream cones ar said to have been first introduced at th St Louis Exposition. Exposi-tion. "Fried ic cream," which, though highly palatable, failed to obtain th same lasting popularity, mad its debut at the Chicago World's Fair. It ia mad by dipping a small cub of hard ic cream into thin batter and then plunging IC Into very hot lard (ft olive oil. The batter hardens to a crisp so quickly that th Ic cream ia not softened soft-ened in the least That mixture of nectar and ambrosia it, but what drove it out was the disapproval disap-proval of th National Association of Ic Cream Manufacturers, which officially offi-cially condemned ic cream of such composition com-position a a bogus and misrepresented product " Th aim of th experiments ef th dairy division of th Department of Agriculture is to get at th fundaman- -tals of Ice-cream manufacture and to determine th ideal mix, meaning by that term the mix that will beat pleas th test of th majority ef ic -cream eon- -sumers. Hitherto this has been more or less a matter of guess, manufacturers using different percentages of butter fat, sugar and other ingredients. Th making of ice cream has become one of the exact sciences. Uncle Sam ha conducted extensive experiments to determine definitely what kind of cream ia most desirable, and it was found that richness in butter fats and sugar waa demanded V . purchasers was larg enough to represent repre-sent fsirly the ice-cream-eating public. Their decisions wer flpal and eon-cluiive. eon-cluiive. Of course, they wer not told anything about th ingredients of th ic cream dealt out to them. They bought it and ate it without knowing it composition, choosing each day th kind they liked best Three mixes were made with eighteen per cent, fifteen per cent, and twelve per cent of butter fat, respectively.. It was found that eighty-two in every hundred purchaser' preferred the eighteen per cent Th thre mixes prepared for th following week (mad up daily) contained, con-tained, respectively,- nineteen per cent, sixteen per cent and thirteen per cent of sugar. Sixty-two in every hundred purchasers liked, th nineteen per cent -rounding it is a coil through which passes a stream of ice-cold brine. At intervals a little of the mix is drawn from th inner cylinders and tested for specific gravity. When th latter reaches a certain pjint th mix ia done, and then, drawn off Into big cans m a semi-fluid state, it is put into a box lik an ic chest to harden,' crushed ic and salt being packed around th cans. - Ic cream is 65 per cent water, 29 per cent . "milk solids" and 15 per cent sugar though " sometimes it may contain more sugar, than that Caterers and first-class, confectioners use "straight" cream in its manufacture. But ordinary commercial ic cream is not made with straight cream; for cheapness, cheap-ness, condensed milkV or milk powder is used as an adulterant. fectly wholesome, but th ic cream is not so good. One of these solids is milk sugar, which, if there be too much of It, ia liable to crystallize out in gritty particles. par-ticles. It. is these gritty particles that make "sandy" ic cream. rpHE origin of ic cream is obscur. Aa early illusion to it is found in th discussion of a banquet given by Charles I of England, at which it was served, an unheard-of novelty. Th King was so pleased with th "frozea milk," as he called it, that he pensioned th cook, ,a Frenchman, with an annuity of 20 a year, conditioned upon his keeping th recipe a secret and preparing th delicacy for nobody else. Fifty years age ke cream was aa occasional luxury; now it is a staple, everyday commodity. It is served at very soda fountain, eaten for dessert at boarding houses, dealt oat from hokey-pokey cart in th alums at a penny a helping, sold in cones and prescribed pre-scribed for the sick in hospitals. It i t common food of all sorts and conditions condi-tions of people everywhere. JANY ice-cream factories now occupy ' entire blocks, some of them manufacturing manu-facturing as much as 6000 gallons . of th product per day. Wholesalers of the delicacy cover whole cities with . their delivery wagons, and sometimes ship it for distances of 200 miles or more. - The dairy interests now count th ice- . cream demand is second in importance to butter. In many sections th butter which goes under th nam of ic cream sod is said to have been the Invention of a famous candy manufacturer, who introduced it at th fountains of csndy shops owned by his concecn in many cities. Ic cream is eaten not for nourishment nourish-ment but because it tastes good. Nevertheless, Never-theless, it Is a very nutritions food. Furthermore, it comes pretty near to bring th most digestibl of all foods, so that physicians commonly prescribe it for their patients. COCONUT Oil has been nsed to som extent as a substitute for butter fat In cheap ic creams. It is perfectly harmless, harm-less, but employment of it for that pur- -pos has been almost entirely abandoned. Th dairy interests, of course, oppose Th question is being settled by trying it out on employe of th department, ' who, wh!l serving a willing volunteers, volun-teers, ar paying th cost of th experiments experi-ments by buying the k cream. It ti scientific ice cream, of superior quality and beautiful smoothness, so that they ar glad to get it for a luncheon dish. Cheap, too. Ten cents for half a pint) ' "sixty cents for a coupon ticket good for six days' supply. Mr. Williams, th expert ia charge ef t ice-cream laboratory, is of opinion that th output of the ice-cream factories has decidedly improved la avarag quality qual-ity in th last few years.1 Doubtless, however, it is susceptible of further improvement, im-provement, and in that direction his . experiment, by offering mora exact knowledge to th manufacturers, are expected to help, . -. CoarrfsM. ISM. W riMM Leisw Cwuf ' ' , . . . . . - |
