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Show im Amewcan wqwan IT JOSEPH, OF FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK, CREATOR OF AMERICAN FASHIONS but a eew 'urn la gtrea them bj la- troduriag into the geaeral scheme uma treetraeet that ealla for ohyiomlv straight line., aad, apropea of thie, there ia a modal under way that will arva to Illustrate quita convincingly tbla point Ia tba original a baautifuf. oft. cream tintad erena da ekiaa ia employed with a girdle aad saeh of gold Haa tipped with hlars and ela that hara graced tka baeka of to manv of tha winter's eucceeaful eraav tione. Now tha tida haa urged tham claar aiound to tha front, and it ia tha idea and bark that receive tha draping, and the front that it railed upoa to curb tha fnvnloua curve, and turas ot the draping, through the medium of a panel, straight or aearlr ao. In one model the panel ia swung from a point between the shoulders, sjgnrid bv a ae.roll like ornament faah ionerl of tha una eat in cording placed nt either enrner, and auaia it is caught to the drees at the waistline by thu a me method. Prom there the pane', whirh is of uniform width, and that I nine inches, falls free to the top of on. of two ehaped flounces, being property lined from that point. Another form has the panel hnng orer the top of the girdle, after the manner of the French sash that haa had a long run of popularity. It ! sometimes turned nnder the foot hem to droop a bit below it, or la tunic i nnder the hem of the tunic if It i a straight one. It also this French see" panel la much liked where the tonic in draped at either side, the panel the' hetn? employed to confine it and con real the r.ait or the gather atrtag that effect the folds. Mtill one other variation of the pnnel and one that nerhape in moat intereat ing of all, consists of a niirrow "trip ni material. sav nix inche wide, started at anv desired point above the waiat line and continued to the end of the tnnlc or nnder the ekirt. aa preferred decorated all the wav down ita center with hnttona or a aeriea of well worked bnttonhnlea. Thi panel is caught and otherwie treated prc iaely aa is the last one described. Evening gowns show a cosmopolitan tenday they are striklnglv Hah aad oppresaivalv sumptuous. they are daintily attractive ia a way that only gradually assert, itself, for they arc frankly practical, dependent upon perfect per-fect l oa of line and beauty of material rather thaa upon any aovelty of cut or intrieacv of trimming achemsx Draperies prevail, and much that la original and unexpected is being doae with them, but thee that have the appraraaee ef utmost simplicity are by far the xaost successful. Aa a matter of fact, there is ae each thing as a draperv that la simple to accomplish. ac-complish. Those that have tha fewest folds hate been arrived at, la all probability, by the great sat amount of maneuvering;. Just at present the rail Is for draperies that interfere aet at all with tha trigassa of lima or that la nowise brook tha lino, aad it la ia this that Ilea the keynote to what to tho antralaed eye i, taken for tha simple drapery. Ia tha sketch accompanying this article is repreeeated a gears of flame colored chlffoa over flesh colored satin, with tunic hravttv beaded ia bugles aad rhincstonea Tha chiffon la draped thickly over the aatin. hnag with mane folds at the side and top, and then drawn aside sad spread out below the knees, forming pocket folds at the right side aad being caught up at the loft with a rhiaeetone ornament. The corsage haa oaa aide draped with the chlffoa aad the other with the' embroidered em-broidered chiffon of the tunic, with a black chiffon roae. tho petals of which are edged with rhineetonea. to fasten tha surplice at the belt line. The sleeves are of the chiffon draped into a claaa bead of jeweled chiffon, with rhineetoae strings falling over them from ornaments that cover the shoulder seams. Creamv lace ia let in between be-tween the slashings of tha skirt at the aide, aad the back presents a long, plain sweep fo jeweled chiffon aupple-mented aupple-mented by tha flesh colored chiffon. Wrapped effects, which have been so popular all winter, are still in vogue, red chenille fringe. You aaa, even In a white frock, for evening wear it is impossible to get away from the Bulgarian Bul-garian influence which is playing upon all departments of dress and upon most of the individual features, aad with suck strenuousneas and versatility that, were it no that its colorful ef fecta are most uncommonly forceful and compelling, it would have run its course long, long ere thie. As it is, the little touch in this instance the tipping of the sash with red aad black, apparently an unimportant procedure-is procedure-is really illustrative of how telling thi Bulgarian influence i at the moment. Not even the most powerful aad a tboritative of the designers can proph eey boar long it will coutiune. For the present, however, there is no question that they are all making the moat of a, To continue with the model under dieeoeeioa It ie made on a straight fonndation with wrap around drapery below the knees of which the small folds are held in place bv being caught lightly to the foundation with greateat care not to effect a "fixed" appearance, appear-ance, yet sufficiently secure to Insure each graceful fold taking ita cue from I the one above it. 1 Above this drapery i a section of 'the same crepe do chine gathered across tho top. with the tiay crease-evenly crease-evenly distribufcl. Then it is dropped , down to meet the other drapery, pouch ing a trifle as it does so. A long panel of the crepe, this time laid in regular plaits, is swung from the girdle, caught all tha way down the side to the front drapery, but yet falling easily and not at all stiffly, as might be supposed from the way it is managed. The eorsag ia Greek like in its aim-plieity. aim-plieity. The plain, creamy crepe Mouses ; over a high girdle that is, ae has al-. al-. ready been explained, of gold cloth, 1 and the back and front sections meet i merely in a point at the shoulders. The neck is simply turned away in a V. Another turn in the trend of fashion has to do with these abbreviated pan I 1 An evening gown of flame colored I chiffon. |