Show CH EN o Down the Portuguese Conat to the tho the tho Spanish Seaport Founded Centuries ChrIst Was Born A Glimpse of tho Columbus Saied Sailed to tho Discovery of c I AmerIca 5 w tN U Special Corr Cadiz Cadir Spain D Do 3 are arc not doing the Spanish tour In the ho straight an and narrow way of the tha orho ortho orthodox dox b but according to the tho vagrant fancies ot of our own sweet wl vIll vIllas as 01 to routes and details Ou time prin principle ciple that one 10 does not travel tar far to find Ond familiar 1111 we ignored the tho comfortable but commonplace stem steam steamON ON CN at O and Germany nn and tonic at on a Portuguese uC coter Coaster jabbering or of strange tongues menu nd nl al looking col cl swarthy villain with n a knife stuck ire In his twi h elt n a In opera d plenty of the tho of lo life I Thus We sIc down don tie time TUgs Tagus and ahdout out to sea hugin hugging the tho coast 11 all the way down the the peninsula In full tull view Ie o of the dark Sierra do but stol stopping ln nowhere til till after the tho sharp corner of cabo ab do Sao VI VIcento nto wal was then thence duo east Cht the province ot of Cn calling It at man many small ports to take on wIne fish 01 oil oles olives and other articles ot of and Spanish h trade From Lg Lagos nar near tho th Cap Cape to the rl forms torms the b boundary Ino line between Spin Spain and Portugal I a railway follows the shore hore the coast like the bada beads on We relIgIously vent nt ashore at each ch pr port or of orcal cal call there I Is them to tempt the traVeler Al All present time same en features n em fandy sandy beach fronted wih warehouses Il hou s lighters on amid one one or two to straggling atteSts lne lined wih wIth le tile and roofed undersized casas greedy y customs officials I military attaches brave brae In butt buff blue and non green pd padres under cha aux and Urchins wih with wonderfully brilliant e eyes brwn brawny In luo kirtles and Lad huge huge tel felt hatt hats wih wIth bare baN t feet t and les legs and enormous gol deD dea hoops hoop In their car eara contente contented b beg 1 gar gitre loungInG lounging In tho he sun aun who put on a pieus piteous exp expression lon while whining their pr per do de Vir Virgin lr gin but take rebut rebuff as ch cheerfully rullY 1 as road and cl call on the saints to bless you ou nil the same me its 8 everywhere ele else In Portugal th the omnipresent loler lottery ticket vendor Is abroad In the land no hamlet being BO that It has hils not ors or of the theta male and te male rolling have halves even cen ot of and finding ready indeed d the the pee pie the moro more anxious the hey seem m to buy p loa for is 15 fot not the saying tru true Tomorrow the wheel IOS goes round Who knows knoR but some twirl ot of Fortunes fin fingel ge gel wi Ila place the grand In fn the lie hand o of the man who Is hungry toa today Hope sprIngs eternal In thi the huma human breast therefore everybody Invests from the lie padre adro under hl shovel hat to the tho cheerful beggar gar lolling iP Ih the sun So beautifully hospitable lre are the Per o who occupy that golden mean o of talon b be time tho poUd proud but no and the illiterate the stranger tranger who In 18 loitering Iwa away arm an hour or two while his steamer dis discharges cha charges or t takes on caro cargo Is sure ro or of bing being invited Into homo home to tot t t under the thede of the corridor And refresh himself with n a fol draught of at In or lie He will be treated wih with ni all the courtesy courtey wu ei ed to I aim expected guest and when he departs there trill fi be cotal cordIal hand handshakes shakes hakel and ani fervent to the thecae cae care of the Ring arias too contented subjects lB nia he be and subject there Is very er much to be said ald In their favor Perhaps theIrs I Is th the truest ph no kicking against t the pricks of environment nt but accepting wih wIth tranqui tranquil hl whatever the gods god I bestow Rest Is In sea ea And fk sky and earth and aM airtime hoary hoar rest of centuries wih and modest plea plen t ty At their bark back dor doors are mountains and 0 I C green the whole year tar through unfailing In rich yield ot of fruit and grain In front ot of them the tho sea teeming with food tree free tor or time the takIng B Scarcely comprehending how greater might be desirable they wonder wh why nn any human being war worry and strive and ns as for him or her who Jesu there must be something radically wrong abut about so unreasonable a person To be lurt sure an American farmer with 1 hIs modern methods would elul easily Sc ac 11 in half n a day Ilay more than n a nan gang an ot of Portuguese farmhands can do en In a week but the former misses alto alo gether o of life Durin During the last years ha has made not a single improvement Jn an any implement or Iten sl sit Ground Is s lUl still scratched wih with plows of the tho first 1 pattern made b by man hItched tandem In traces of d straw A dozen mem women nod and chil mel chi cIen dren themselves Indispensable to the tilting ot of each tach short In tag to the tho PLO UA S the beam the oxen amid tremendous shouting rind excite moot ment and ani hn a few tew t feet t ot at nail II h have hen leen thus turned oer al all sit it down In the shadow ot of hi flowery hedge to en JO a siesta fiesta Wim Wb should they hur burr when summer never endl ends anti and harvest come alike aUke at the will ot of the tho planter All American cereals grow row wih with ye ro luxuriance In southern Port Forth gal They ar ate cUt with the short sickle followed by the gleaners as In the da days ot of nuth In th time f field ld ot of lIons Donz lorn rn Is pulled not cut cut the I leaven el pr preserved sered for or odder fodder the munChed munched b by goats and donkeys and the cor cobs al after r shelling used for tor fuel luel E far farm has Il its elm or threshing noora floora circular heap hean of Stone and beaten hard a as granite Upon time the wheat hent and bar barley icy ley are piled sail and over ocr them blInd blIndfolded folded cows and ani oxen are oro driven to arid fro ro until the treading hA relea released 11 anI the tho I I kernels kernel In the entire peninsula there I is no other method of threshing groin grain The stra straw Is then lifted off ott the elra cira with wooden forks an and a rag hol hoisted te teon on an 1 a tiek t hi fInd time the lr cUon o of the wind This ascertained the women and girls range themselves along the wind wad side of at the elra and tO toss 1 time the grain Into time the air until thc time chaff Is blown away Another e e instItution that I may been borrowed from Moses time is 18 the mora or waterwheel You I Pee 11 I it everywhere fre along th the country roadsides wih blindfolded oxen oln marching rund round Id amid roUnd the water Ir is sent nt through Atone troughs to 11 fill the fountains tl feed d time the irrigating ditch ditches e eLte Late In the tho afternoon we TO crossed the rub rubicon Icon of the Guadiana and left leU old Portugal behind So it II happened that In the glor glory o of 1 mm Spanish sunset I the first glimpse or of the lorland forland of m my ca chateau en n Inee since only bit of oC ral real estate I ever In cloud pictures against the tho sunset sky It Its shining towers ase arose complete Wih With ballem high II in the hush ot of the air And nd time tho turrets thorn thereon appropriately draPed In him crimson 11 and gold the tho royal colors color o of Spin Spain In time the moving of at J fleecy ecy clouds one could dl tr trace the gallant figure of Dorm Don Quixote do de In fn Pancha b by his faithful squire riding their donkeys lul full ti tilt against misty wind windmills mills the mighty Caliph rearing temples for the mal mail olad Cid to destroy nn ni all the other delights and wonter wonders that list blong belong to imaginary In Spain There WI was just time before tor daylight dropped ls Its curtain 01 the scene to get geta I Ia a of lalO time tho ancient port ort of southwestern Spun whence hance sailed tour four hundred years ago on Lis first voyage to Te The plain littie stolle church ot of St GOr George looking as fresh In the distance ns as Ir if only yesterday time contractor ha had handed over Imia finished gua guards s the entrance to time the town 1 as when the GREAT ADMIRAL hEAD from its pulpit time the royal roal time the citizens ls ot of Palo Pales would furnish his crews for tor time tho uncertain voyage In search ot of 8 another nother world world Fancy the terror and distress In the IUle little town ut at such nn an unexpected levy ley upon Is its scanty population I There lel to too Is the convent conent chapel of Santa Clarl Clara where Columbus and his sailors fulfilled th their lr vows after the ho return from that momentous first voyage oage You remember r that 1 a dreadful torm arose during which they Iel the Blessed Virgin tha that If saved b by her interposItIon the they would spend pend time the whole of their heir frt first night ashore In prayer antI and praise before her nearest iii al altar tar History fays says that Columbus at least performed his p to the tho leler letter kneeling all night long on tl the cold al stones before her Image In Santa Cara Clara Two or thre three miles beyond clear olear and distinct on It Its breezy breez hi hill to top stands tho old old convent of L La counterfeit figured at our Worlds Fair In Chicago n a few tew years ears ago Toa Today vessels rarely ly touch ouch at 1310 I because ause the aged town otter offers few ew In inducements to modern trade or travel but you ou ma may easily each It from Cadiz either her on after the tho fashion el of the country or In n a carriage Aside front from Is Its historic associatIons It con connine nine absolutely nothing of Interest only On one tong long straggling street antI and n a afew few fow scattered houses climbing up UI the thu hillside I 1 doubt I it hal half B a dozen of oC Is its five or sIx Ix hundred inhabItants ever heard of Columbus or ho II discos ered i and the visitor to Pales Palos brings away with him besides an extra burden of 01 dust and neal fleas n a sad end Impression o of prevailing ignorance lover sloth of discovery ot of Ater la only tor four little lo centuries ago ngo Is A as n a minutE minute nast Iut compare compared with the traditIons of Cadiz Founded by Hercules eleven centuries before Christ WI was born It is Ie not on one of the OLDEST CITIES I IN EUROPE but tul fully half Mold as old a as this weary world Iselt Itself according to the Hebrew I Wha What J t orl early name may have been under time the PhoenIcians antI and Is nt riot now known The Romans noman who ho captured I it throe three and a ahal hal half centurIes before the foundation of oC Hore was wae laid caled called I It Gaddis and made malle I it for tor a time the most wealthy Ind and Implant important dU city or of time the world A Af Afterwards the Goth Gotha and ani Moors tor had their turn nt at it each ench n a few tew hundred yearn ears arid I it It ha has ben been Spanish only since llIco 1 Nor has I it belon belonged ed to Spin Spain ever since for lor Drake the English buccaneer tok took forcible possession In 1557 followed b by I Lord El En Ensex sex ex and nud n a horde hord of who twisted ls its honored name Into something Ik like Kal Kales The h held ld I It a few tew years ar In iii the early earl part of the pre present nt century Ind and heaven heuven knows who Its next master mu may be when and Spain credit a a Ite little mor more out of pocket With these historic poInts In mind ones frt first view Ie ot of Cadiz Cadis The Silver CI City Is 19 an immense surprise You are prepared for tor a sad gray tumbledown old not for the brIght and b beautiful reality Seen from Cram a ships deck Eck II in th the ear early towers tower and battement battlements and tal tall stone house houses glIstening Ik like spotless marble In the lok looks a as If yesterday Here pen n arid Ink lire are to descrIbe I It t Do came near the tho truth when ho he said Oh One could not do bt better r than to write the wor word white l a white Pencil on him blue paper and make n a note noto on oh the marn margin Impressions of Cadia I I It Is a study In blue ami Illar regular rows ot of snowy buildings Blot aloft on n a bold promontory between sea and sk sky the color of indigo Stute Situated lit at the ex cx of II a Ion long and conneCted with the main only by byn bya n a strip of rk rocky oarth earth In fre seine places not two hundred yards r acrons CadIz I Is Rn an land island nearly al all II its streets beginning and ending at the Time The long surges ot of the Atan Atlan Atlantic le tic beat upon Is Its western and southern whiP the north ad and east elut is II hi by the tho dp deep p Inlet which forms arm an outer and Inner ba bay Th The cl city Is very l h fortified with le sea wal all batons bastion lors forts and watchtowers to mind time the inroads of pirates when perpetual wal h was kept and their dreaded cm coni InC b iy bui built 01 on the hilltops Anchored at list last In the outer by bay I rol tm climb down Into a quer queer craft an Irm Immense ne triangular sai sail and hul hull euln equipped wih with n a nI I rudder It at both stem stein and ani stern Item The are always In Cadis bM bay b by that 1111 the tha Inlet as through I a and nud time the coil to Is anything but until unal IO loyed delight with a stiff breeze tipping the to the lie gunwale at the frowning wals ot of San Sen Sebastian San Santa Santa ta Catalina San Fernando and several oU oilier torts you OU 10 go under rust rusty guns that lem seem to the hated wih wIth In Instant stant destruction Time instant your our r cot et touch le Ite shore o of Spain you OU rl real Izo that lint you ou are under not the most friendly and Pres onti find In the clutches of time the world greediest In time the FANNIE t WARD |