Show 4 iI-I iI j PAGE j GE OF OF FEATURES FOR WOMEN WOMEN READERS n I L M A N A K- K ate v i tT 0 OF 1 I V V r V V i V jf Y I VV VV V V k I V Vr 4 V c 1 I V r I A 3 z t bJ F 4 c tu 0 M I I r r I Ir I Ia a 4 I. I V IJ- IJ V V V V. V OJ V VV V I 1 Y V V V V V e 0 I V p pI pV V V V V V I V t V I V I I. I I V V V V V V 11 V VV VV V V Z f V V V V d V VV V V V V 0 V V V V V V V V V V V V 0 V V 2 V V 1 f til l i. i 1 r 4 rJ r i t I t. t f. f I- I r f i V f J I t J 1 H f f r I 4 iL I i ii i c. J. J tV I V l j Mo AiK A r it w I iK 0 fe a hl 1 7 i t. t t y 0 ni 0 f i. i 4 fJ c I C 11 tf 1 i r I J I 1 I. I 11 1 r. r J f J J L r t j I d v r r i 1 J 1 J I V 1 r I r 1 r WV S iX V V V. V W n fT ti tJ 1 V Vf V V V V a V of t M. M 4 V V VV V l. l f i V V 3 V V V i J V Not even ven D the fascination of rare re and aud l unusual color e combinations on has iia been sufficient to ole lessen I n int interest rest in and ki t white effects effect f Qa the t contrary n new V constantly cropping up t. t J. treatments are l first Brat from torn establishment of one t. t great greit re t couturier and arid and then h n another no her V Much of th the inspiration ion for their th ir designing de dc V f signing je is due to th the vast t assortment V of f materials and t trimmings thero there i is to V. V i draw u upon o thi this season and to the i craze craze that fO for r embroideries eI c a and d i f Jace lace V Looking ack back over the various carious V periods ar dress s. s 1 I can find no o time t. such advantage used to J V irnen lace wall 5 M jt i t i iD OW r although upon up n that poi point t V V AV V lt b be there is ie some cause for reV roo re- re V o cret tut as s. s well w ll V 16 as 3 fo for T rejoicing since V is i. something U ethin to be Said gaid in rn favor V I mat materials tiala if employing beautiful D a spar spar- of V in in- Nevertheless lace ace is is IJ used 4 it I. I di n IY albeit aside the V made with c ra first i suggestion ui i tiou stion j V-V V 1 nowhere do we end find findL findt and i I blo blo discretion r tion v it it more satisfactorily treated than inV in inthe t L It confections It V the black and white rV y- y 3 ISem ems ems' to have han the same ff oJ V t touch that i n note notO tc of f color adds wit jot r m more r V conservatism r V V has been don done little V V Comparatively Co tJ V t for th the pa t few years eus until with tb let V j. j 1 1 worked in now V recently but ut It is Ic being I V ways ways' of really marvelous charm j in ways caye ittA little lit itt with del delicacy j generally eCy very and aud A J tie tle bein being attempted with the b heavy nc Y a y J f d e effects that thit used to be e c considered dei V quite tb insignia o of ht the tho V i it Jet preferring 4 J j Instead U wo we arc uC V f T Il t embroideries i i on net a and thuG theao rather r th in th the form fonn t of ff f tr tracery thin than in wild id r while fringe helps Ou out ut I 2 ti i V V n l although ou b tb the silk lik fringe ar arnot are re remu lAA t. t poto not so much mu h in demand nd as as ae tb they were wore at af least at th thy they are used with discretion V V now DOW instead of wherever an op V V city for them could bo forced n that J n. n hat they V 8 appear pear only in am small smal all c I a 4 upon thia sub sub- by b- b i y idd t f i 1 el I 7 erCy 0 o e a ns I of in rd n foot of a f rt V 4 u v V g X r I 5 one fl 61 side aide d' d of ora ofa tu rif l jt it II iq V two e etc etc- c cI I f V t V V tion or orto to finish and ando o outline its Us bor bore der er hem if it happens to be all in one piece Panni Panniers rs of draperies that suggest them them-I hem I refer to those that are nUke at both loth aro sides aro better trimmed with other than fringe et but for forbe forthe the be diagonal tunics or or for those that fall all straight to the tho foot fringe frange often often- proves prOtes precisely the thing needed V Sketched for this week is is a IL bl bland blade and white dinner gown that has ba has been very ver highly commented upon b bv all auto to whom I have ha shown tho the model and which I think you Vou will win a agree ree aside from its of detail shows a pretty pret prete ty balance The black and white you rou will notice are not matched blatantly one against the other but rather they thov seem eem t to j meet into ca each h hother other I I al always al af- af ways waye try tIT t to avoid what I call all splotched effects effect one note or two or three that always must catch the eye first Instead I strive f for far r tho the ensemble wherein tho the observer is if enabled to w take e ein in in the the effect V as a whole the tho details oc occurring to him bini only at a second or a a. third or a. a fourth glance lanee lance I Here then the skirt kirt is of white satin embroidered red in a tracery tracery of conventionalized con con- ven in fine black back silk Tho The tunic is an all around the b back k breadth cut in Sn stole stoIa effect disclosing tbd tb satin of the foundation quite elaborately but t in- in inthe the tho samo amo delicate deli deliS cate cato tracer tracery Bands of f jet let run not net two wide continue tho the outside lines Unes of this cut out section as s a far as the hem of the tunic losing themselves in the foot band baud that is of the net low tho PD panel l the tunic instead of ot the tho foundation tion lion skirt is embroidered this h 3 timo with net jet Similarly tho the jet iet embroidery occurs a about ut th the bibs i D and andr front indi indicating cating aUn a a. a hip yoke A A. sauar square la Is a f formed nned by bands bands' that holdIn holdIn hold hoid In a cape abo about t the tho shoulders and continuo continuo con con- on on under the tho satin girdle down the skirt to knee depth where the they are terminated with tassels V The ornament orna ment mont that fixes the bolt belt at the center cen eeD ter for front i ift of jet on a background oi of turquoise enamel the blue giving givin an interesting tinE note Jets Jd and Iaco Jaco are not always used tog U r so success but when hen teU l il fully combined tho effect is b unusually r rich Both n. n nit net t. t and lace however er mu must n not t. t only bo of exceptional quality but jut of lof exceptionally attractive pattern attern since they are such admirable foils foils' to each cach other ether I i like liko immensely the idea of using V Vi the lace ftC in the foundation leavin leaving the plainer er material materia the silk or transparency ency eney as 88 the case may be beJ for the th tunic G Gowns own II th thus evol evolved ed alwa always have a quaint old fashioned look Oh Ob that overworked over phrase but what is there thero for a substitute substitute that we all love rather than admire although as a a. matter of fact fad except when the lace is Is' Is ap applied d das as 18 a a. flounce the development is strictly modern That that however is is just dust the point upon which fashions this spring are turned They are strikingly are m modern mod mod- d ern era yet yot obviously altogether made up of antiquated features More often than not there is not a single ln le note in inthe tho the entire construction of a c costume I that has bas not already been introduced and aDd yet there is no DO mistaking the tho models models mod mod- els of l 1912 12 It is ridiculous that there is nothing new this season every everything thins is new ne in so 80 far faras as its its' separate fea f features a. a tures turn are arc related to other features with which Vh h. h it is combined and what else cle indeed is it that makes for or n novelty But to get et down to cases case During the last two weeks many of the suggestions sug aig g put forth by the e great fashion exploiters of Paris Paris' have come coine c cometo ine to a focus lotus For instance th the the- waistline waist line which has hM been fluctuating between the bust buet and I Iwas was to say say the tho hips hip thinking of the thel pointed effects hatS has adjusted itself telf to a liPo lino half aninch an aninch inch ab above vo the normal po 10 o r more pr bo po pol io l less ss Of course whatever fashion dictates in regard to this particular note t each cach individual must assume somo omo ree po i- i The raising or J lowering of the belt line Uns by so SOV much 1 oh cb as a a fraction faction of an inch IS is generally sufficient to change the contour of ones one's figure and this may may always be done dono wil 1 ut infrInging upon any rule rulf that fashion may have bAve made regarding the position tion flea of ot tho waistline The rity of slender figures are improved ini- ini roved by a slight lifting lif of the belt a stout figure responds to th the same treat ment Except in the franker Eo models models- the perfectly round waistline i ir h seldom graceful r but buta a slight ht readjustment re ro- ro- ro adjustment as 8 I say lY can caD generally bo be depended upon to work more mort or less of at the sides and andriot not riot infrequently tb the transformation A I |