Show DOWN THE iNDES ON i RIND GAR I I An Exciting Trip frorr Mountain Top to trio Patiltlb Over the Steepest Railroad of the World I Jb Engineericis Wooden of the Or01a Itailroold16VIAlth Climbs Upward Tre All In T6 hn 00 IStaIrdand Wleb Cost TnI1 lll lo 1Jollar oDd I e Thealad LIlIow an Amrle 11011I like lIn1 aud Its lrobl Future as is TrmnsAndeca IneA Trip to the Top of tits Andes In an Observation F21no sand sorne at th117cauter at The Ureat Sonlb mlrnn Mnunlaln 11ow 1 hey Look 110 Top WhIrci Von Can Spat Into 10 Oeean 1 Iymul Taking a SlepThTr m lOr Bnrorlio or the Mountain ftlrlen Mrllelne Ilcteim VTl lib Icocll aDd Camera Take Amhl Somr tic Urocuidoiot Scenery the Gibe I Copyrighted 1698 by Frank a Carpenter Carpen-ter Lima Peru April 16 ISO Down the Andes on a hand car Coistlng over the teepe > t railroad of the world Dashing through clouds to find clouds below YOU Hanging to precipices flying on trWCes over frightful chasms whirling whirl-ing about curies now In the midnight darkness of winding tunnels and now where the light of day malts You shudder shud-der at the depth below s on This will Rive you n faint Idea ot the last part of a trip from which 1 hive Just returned During It I have ascended to the very top of the mountains moun-tains and have come back again to this point which Is I Just six miles from theM sea the-M y trip was over the famous Oreya railroad the most wonderful rlLa of railroad engineering ever con ItrMteel or fanned The road Is I all told only 138 mile long but It climb up the steeliest mountains of the globe In UPS than 100 miles It ascends rnore than three nilles and at Its highest poInt It Is I IG666 t feet above where It starts at the port of Callao on the Pa file ocean At the top It li still 1000 feet below the summit oj Mount JtclstTs It cuts fight through this peak by a tunnel which curries It to the other Vjifeof the Andes It then descends l nlg hdt riii the Nalley of the Jaujo through the rich silver mining region of Yaull ann finally ends at Oroja an i Indian market mar-ket town 12178 teet above the sea It is I ono of the most expensive loads ever built > It was dear In both money tana men Seven thousand lives were III Is Bald lot during Its construction and the first eightysix miles of It cost 27000 MO or over 300000 per mile Be ten the coast and the summit there is I not an Inch I of down grade and the speed of our hand Car In my Journey over It was only regulated by the pre sure on the brake In the hands of the Indian who acted M i conductor On riany port ot tits road the grade in sVMeSlli KST 4 Per cent and at Such grades Ih trick winds about and up the Andes gWltouagbhUctutaninUjethe pasting through cut In the solid rock and through slxlythre tunnels some or which are ot the shape ot 0 letterS letter-S III is ot the standard gauge Its track is I well Id and to In excellent condition condi-tion BUILT BY AN AMCIIICAN This road was built by an American tough It was suggested by a Peruvian The man who constructed It was Hen U Uelggs Mclgg laid out the road tried as Its englneerlnrlilef raised lit I money to build It and In fact Is Milled to all the credit of Its construe lion The road was originally Intended Intend-ed to reach the Cerro de Poneo silver mines but J27000000 gave out when about eightysix miles were built nnd I the extension Is I still tome fort j odd miles away from these talllou nation I lain of copper and silver The portion por-tion of the road above where Melsg left ort was constructed hy the Peruvian I Peru-vian corporation under what Is I known no the Grace Contra The ultimate Intention Is I to extend It farther on Into tho 1rne a rich cocreerallng Ills trlet and to the head of the steam navigation of the Amazon at Chan chica > o The preliminary surveys for this hale alrealy been made The total to-tal dist once front the sea 10 the nav Jaahl Amazon Is I I am told not more than 210 miles but there Is I nt present no sign 1 or the mad being steam completed com-pleted It Is I doubtful whether the railroad now pays much more than lie f irt will expenses give dividends and It will In be proportion long I propor-tion to Its enormous cost Only two Passenger trains at run over It a week and the chief freight down the mountain moun-tain In ore CLIMBING I TUT ANDES WITH AN i ENtllNK I The usual trip over this road Is I token I en the regular passenger train which carries the traveler up the mountains one day and brings him back the next Though tho Kindness of the Influential American I firm of Orace Cut jJd WAS i taken up on n little engine and had my tide down on the hand car 1 thus hall a wonderful opportunity for studying I both the railroad construction and the mighty mountains up which It climbs I Our special engine wait called La Fn vorlto It wis composed of tho en Place proper nnd a cab walled with class and titled < up with comfortable seats His 1 observation compartment was a Part or the engine Itself taking the Once that the ordinary engine uses for coal Our Ullle engine burned coal oil and It vvas Peruvian petroleum that lulled us up the Andes The party con Plaited of the American minister Mr lludlejj the secretary of our legation Mr Neal Air Sherinyan the e > r the house rof Grace natt Lima manager a I 1renciantan named Piper and Mr rimon1 rrrg rlfretlorn rralr electric street railway man II from Ohio whol Is I out here 10 are hethfr the Lima tramways tire worth I MiYlner The engineer I end his helper we Peruvians We loft at seven In the morning and spent the whole day on the road stopping to take photographs at the meet Interesting po nt > nnd going on na fat or as Blow ma as wo wished ln 111114 You know Is situated In the Hey of Ihe TUmno river H Is I right at the foot of the Andes and our trip 1188 of this up river the mountains to Its very along cource the nn course the 20calmit At Lima the Tatman Is What In J Ir America would be called a goodsized I Creek It In nowhere navigable and Is In fact a stream of foaming Vt water from the top of the Andes to the lea Tl descent Is 1 so steep that quiet g g obestfecupnill Pool I are nOwhere to Find the firr 1 is 1 succession of waterfalls i3onall tic Churns and rushing rapids During the ride we could often see the r 11 bI vUI lrhO r a h rob Ova an elov lie at the same thine sd I R r we went lit up Climbing the Idisof the mountains I cheered an our way by the rushing of the waters AMONO Tim SIIC1AH I CANE AND COTTON We first Passed through the find cotton Plantation a hich filled sugar tire lialleY above Lima The fields look IlLe gardens t i gottenup for allow They Are surrounded by Mud Walls and the craft 1 ao 1 are he green as theme of tile UnIted States In Jun Now we pass 11 Sugar hacienda I In w7hich on one aide Pill Of ithe track two steam engtries are Ing m cable Plow through the field hlla lJo 0 the other side men Pltthis ale Nulling urging wNeIr 0lob beasts oxen and a dOll with dO-ll fifteen fee tic In the cotton Sang Of Indian workmen are Mbtktnlr under overseers on horseback the e Carlo adapts are In blossom and n fields look like vat gardens or pink Wants ellow they rS cl are The 1 as mm clean wed as any the rome garden at home There Is a cotton cot-ton mill and farther on we pafs a sugar factory which grinds out Ihou nds of pounds of sugar a day There Is I no better sugar land anywhere than this and we learn In passing that It produces from two to nix tons ot sugar per acre nnd litter t l iu will f cep on Producing for as long an SIX years We notice that all ot tile land Is I used The water Is I taken from the IN TltK ANDES row wo tire In the foot hills of the = Andes Haw bleak stud bare nnd gray they look In the early morning There to I not a green sjiot nnyvvhert to be seen on these vast walls which hero face the sea We shall find It different na We rise to the mountains behind Here they are ot soft silver gray velvet vel-vet where the sun casts Its shadow and of dazzling white where It Striker full In their faces The only green Is I the little strip along the Itlmac Further Fur-ther on we notice a thin fuz of green cropping out of the gray It Is ns I though the velvet was sprinkled with 0 dust oC ground emeralds Here Ihr Is I a llltlo cactus and there a small bunch ot weeds As we rise higher the mountains grow greener until at the level of Mount Washington we find them covered wllh a thin coat of vegetation veg-etation As we near tit 0 altitude lOr Leadvlile there Is I plenty of grass and at one point we count forty different kinds of lowers at a stopping ot our engine There are buttercups without number silver gray moca rand flowers ot ell colors the names of which I do not know As I remark upon the vegetation vege-tation saying that It In I still very scanty Mr Sherman tells me that the fact that there Is I any green at all to be seen Is I due to the rainy season And that at other times t of the year this whole western Ida tit the Andes Is I bleak dry and almost absolutely sterile The foot hills which In fact are mountains moun-tains In themselves looked ns though they were of dirt and gravel I Further up you cOllie Into a region ot rocks where only bits of BOll are to bo 1 seen hr and there In uch places I every Inch of ground 1 Is I cultivated The mountains are terraced clear In their top an some ot them are covered cov-ered wIth Steps ot enen built I up with rock and no graduated that a man can attend on one or the lower steps Or ledires and 1 plant the seed or weed tie crops of the next ledge without stoop Inc over Some nC the fields tire nol a big as a bedspread and some IOn tho opposite side 101 the mountain dn no look as big as a pocket handkerchief Borne Patches ot corn eelll almost Inaccessible In-accessible and remind me of tire farm ore of West Virginia who are said to have to plant their crops with a rifle as the hills are so steep that they arc in able to oland long enough on the sides to drop the corn In the rmv Wo rep InlIan planting and working In the fields and paps numerous little vallages ot oneotnry houses inside of unlrld bricks and roofed with thatch or sheets of corrugated Iron In most cases the Iron platMi tire not mlled to the huts They are merely laid on the rafters and kept there by covering them with strones Many ot the houses are not larger than dog kennels and qUit an quall1 as an Alllerln Pigsty and their inhabitants who gather around us at the Stations are ot the Pon varlety dorkfRc1 Indian men women and hllllren I frightened Porrost ot the chlldrenlvery much by posing them for mi camera They had evidently nr hoard or photographs and one little fellow howled < like aCherokcf Indian when I Pointed the Intrulllent at him Tim CATHEDRALS OF TIm ANDES AN-DES I have hen over every scenic route In the United States I hale traveled over the railroad 01 Mexico and have visited those parts of Europe which the world calls grand I have climbed the Hlrrmlayns and have watched the un et on tile mountains ot north China but OOhere halve I seen anything any-thing like the peenery o the Andes I will not Fay trial nr Is more beautiful or more Impressive than the Alps the Booklet or tle Himalayas but It surpasses sur-passes them in Same respects and Its wonder are Its own Here the moun lain rise almost abruptly upward You ride for miles between walls of rock which kill the sky thousands of feet Above you Some nf the rocks take 1100 shape ot gigantic cttedrala very 11II1le ot the rods their spims hidden In I the cloud Others look like vast fort I Ica floors wnll 01 rock to hut the nations ot the wt away trolll the riches ot this great continent mere ore no pretty bits of scenery such afl you see In other mountains Here all ls on tho grandest and most terrible rcalo In our ride along the sides of these wall Now wo pierce them by a tunnel high up In the air and higher Mill see another tunnel which we shall reach later on We cross gorges in goIng go-Ing from one tunnel Into another over air Iron network of a bridge which looks awfully frail ns the rnorlta pusses over It Wo pierce a wall of rock where a river has been turned aside that It may not Interfere with the road and by a winding tunnel dash out Into what It called The Infernlllo I or hell It Is a slender Iron bridge two miles above the sea high up ltwccn walls of rock Tar down below you see waters rushing and out of the wall we have left a great torrent of foaming water plunges Before us at the other end of the bridge there Is I another wall of rock I In which there Is a black hole pierced by the track and ns we look upward between the walls Wo see na through n nnrrow slit the blue sky ot han above this Andean hell There are a nUlllbr ot these bringing bridges on the route We stopped nt the Veruguas bridge which spans a Moment Via feet Ion hanging to tunnels 100 feet above the Verusuas river This bridge was swept away some time ago and for months both passengers and freight were carried nrrosa on a cable the little rnr hanging to the rope stretched from wall to wall across this frightful chasm At times we saw t tunnel above and below us Tire track goes up Its steepest places In a rlgza route so that at ono lime we counted nve tracks runnIng Almost prallel below be-low us Almost the whole line wvu blasted out oC the mountain rocks On many places along the line the hills are no steep that men had to be lowered In ropes over the edges of the precipice 10 drill holes for the powder which Ioltd away the loolges < I for the track Palling rocks killed some infidelities swallowed up others and many died or fever ON THE HAND CAB You can Imagine something of a sensation sen-sation ot golngdown such a road on a hand car The reality Is I wilder and more exciting than anything you can conceive The hand car on which I rode was of tho rudest order It was merely platform the feet long and a little wider than the track upon four ordinary car wheels On tho front part of the platform a strip of wood two inches thick Ont about that wide WBI nailed and at lhe back Was a seat much like that on a farm wagon The lat had a ralllnk Iwo Inches high and It vvas Just wide enough for three Tho jnduclor a brownfaced Indian satIn sat-In the middle till his blind on a brake extending down through the center of the platform Mr herman and I sat Sheronatifeandbroaceaa on the right and left bur feet braced against the strip on the bed of the car Sold our bonds on tho side nnd back ot the seat holding on for dear llfo a i we rushed down tile mountains Our only means of flopping the car was by the brake and the danger ns w 0 rushed through the tunnels wait not only that of the ear Jumping the track In going around the curves but nlso the possibility of mrellng a donkey oran or-an Indian coming through The rocks In many plac0 are 100 and tile dongr ot a landslide Is such at this time ot the year that a hand car Is I al I ways sent live minutes nhend of th regular I passenger train to see that tIO road Is I free At one time we chased a cow for about n mile and nt anotlwr two lamas I blocked the track for a tell mOlllents At time the road seemed to us to go down al nn angle of fortylive degrees and many of the severest grades were along the edges ot the Ireclllce lOr AN here we seemed tn be clinging to the walls or rock I cannot Pay that 1 Ia not afraid nor that m hart wa not often In mI throat but I will say that tire exper Inc wns such that knowing what I now do I would take the fl J mrney fain to feel the sime exhilarating eno ot pleasure nod danger com bitted binON ON THE TOP or Tim ANDES The sensation of stanellng on the top ot the Andes was worth having As ic climbed up and up above Casapalea he air grew colder and rarer We rode out ot a heavy rain Into a denict < snowstorm Soon wo vitere In banks or now Now the inlet and clouds surrounded sur-rounded Its eo that wo could not see twenl feet bond the car We rod through the storm and al the cloud sweep down the Andes below us As the Mint disappear we caught a glimpse of the country through which we had bn i passing and shuddered at the pre clple es over which we had gone Mount Melggs was also straight above us and we stopped the engine a moment In front ot the black lIIoulh of the lalero tunnel on the very roof of the South American continent 11lnd us all the wale were flowing Into the Pacific ocean On the opposite side ot the tunnel all of the waters find their way t hrough the Amazon Into the Atlantic The dividing of the waters Is I In fact within the tunnel Itself and you could readlir Ptand at a certain Point In the dalern tunnel 1 and na on both oceans mitbout taking a step to ono side or the other I did not do this for the diddark Interior mas no dark as Pitch and 1 Ia too anxious to ee the othe side ot the Andes We went through the tunnel and stopped the Favorite at the other side among Born ot I grandest ecent ot the trip The mountains all nbout us were capped with snow Over us toweredMountMiIees7D76 feet hlghlts top a halt a mil above Where we tood Our Itltudo was more than three miles aloe the men We were on the highest railroad point In the world Think lt Il Wa wr Car above the bright of Fuglyama the snowcapped itiountain ot Japan far nearer i tile heavens that the top of Mount lllane or any pint In Kurope a thousand reel higher than Pikes Peak or any mountain moun-tain In Colorado above lit Whitney and In tact higher than nny other mountain In the United states outside or Alaska As I looked at the grandeur grand-eur about me I felt like the cxprea Five but not the Irreverent cowboy mho awoke one morning In the mldt ot the Alps His method of showings h showing-s approbation had always been by a hUlnh and len 100 leaked UI at snowcapped peaks rising one all ove another as far as his eye cud reach he could contain Wmslt n longer and he throw his hat Into the air and Hurrah for Goal TIt TERRORS OF SOnOCHE This how I felt I was acted far differently dif-ferently ly voice was so meak front the rarity ot the air that I could not hnlo whistled 1 dog At about len thousand feet above the sea converse tlon began 10 lag In our part I as almost Imposlhle 10 talk to one another an-other on the outside platform ot the avorlta and I found myself again and agaIn weighing my thought to decide Whether they were worth the breath It would take to utter them All ort ot exertions took triple strength to perform them I found mybools grow suddenly heavy and I changed my step to that of nn old man At the astern end ot the Qalera tunnel we topped amid bank ot nol and Mr Sherman and myself had a Pnowball Ing fight away up there In the clouds I was not an exciting contest however how-ever Every throw sent our hearts Into our throats and we had to stop and pant for breath When we walked at all after this we had to go very slowly and In climbing up the hills we crawled Aa the day went on the uncomfortable feeling from the extraordinary height and our quick Jump from the sea 10 the top ot the mountains Increased We descenede about 1000 feet and stopped an toPd for the night at Casapolcn where there Is I a big silver and copper smelter owned by nocku Johnson and company com-pany an enterprising firm which 1 shall describe In another letter eating ot the mine ot Peru Wo were received re-ceived here by the vice President of the company Captain I Oler nn Idaho nlnlng engineer who made us at homo and put us IP for tile night Before ne trot to the house the Frenchman and Mr 1leon were attacked With earache or the mountain sickness a disease cOlllmon to strangers In high altitudes and later on the whole ot the party were more or less I affected My attack did not come unUI midnight I awoke feeling as though the top ot my had was rising Into the air I had a terrible pain In the tempi cramps In my Jeg I and nt the salll time a Btrong IncllnaUon to vomit I 1a y on lY back all nIght to give my lungs as full play as possible and hardly hard-ly slept n wink I managed to get up at daybreak and although there was a coat on my tongue as thick as the fur ot an Alaska seal I drnnk some coffee and by keeping out tit doors was sufficiently recovered to take my handcar hand-car ride down the mountains Mr Sherman fared even better than I but Secretory Neal said that between the smell of the sulphur from the smelting Ing furnaces and the oroeho bethought be-thought he was In hell and dreamed all night that a hundred devils wr dancing on his chest while Mr liter son looked tie though he had lost nU his friends and said he longed for home Captain Oujcr told us that allllot every one that como up the mountains Is I similarly articled and that soma fared much worse A week or so ago Mr Stuart tho former 2 United States minister to Paraguay came up to Ca Bapalcn with his wife The madam fainted before she could get from the train to the house and was terribly sick all night The minister got along very well till near dinner time when he was attacked with vomiting diarrhoea and 1 fainting spell and he was also sick for the night The earache Is common com-mon throughout the Andes and I fear I shall have more of It before my trip Is I over I usually begins at the ali tude ot 12000 feet With some It does not last more than a day or so anti then passes oft With others It la I very serious The first symptoms are pains In the head and nausea Then comes vertigo dimness ot sight and hearing fainting ills follow and blood flown from the eYe nose and lip Those who have weak lungs are liable to hemorrhages and those whose hearts are weak sometimes drop dead I Is I especlnly hard on fullblooded and tout people and those addicted to liquor and high living Healthy thin people peo-ple of temepratc habIts soon get overt over-t and as I am ot that class vvelghlne all told not more than 100 pounds I expect t survive PIIANK O CAHPCNTEn kh |