Show I I Cl Clothes thes I Must Fit Into Mood of the Hour HourAt I I S Sl i l l' l 4 Y I 4 45 i 1 4 4 i A AS S S S ss S' S 5 S S' S 5 5 jj I S P- P iS 54 At M tl the left above is s seen en a Bendel im importation o tation of of black velvet featuring embroidery of gold and crystal beads on flesh radium On the right is a Russian ermine ermine evening wrap It is of one and is piece worn worl tOI to form to form a double cape of whatever length desired I Editors Editor's note This note This is the I fourth of a series of interviews wi with h Henri Bendel N New Nw w Yorks York's forem foremost st designer and importer I which will be published each week exclusively in The Tele Tele- gram 1 Dy By NFL NEk Service Writer riter NEW YORK YORE Dec Dee 20 The The mod x modern I ern era womans woman's clothes must express more than beauty and Imagination n I and nd what we call style tyle says sas Henri I Bendel Now Yorks York's foremost deSigner de- de deigner Signer igner an and importer x S 'S They must fit into the mood of or orthe the hour They must f express 1924 no matter if It the Inspiration was sixteenth century They must fit into the the pattern of the day and become a part of the general panorama ma of loveliness I if tr a woman is to enjoy then them an and b bC distinctive S S A k designer to be successful must feel the fhe trend of the times an and know how It if may best he expressed in lines an and 1 textiles he went on He lie may prefer refer th the Ie tit ut tb iliC Greek r roI W of Qt the tue I quality of I the mOch inO- inO cit ch uSe age e lii lint biH be he illi t l fc faSt H l these Ne In of the terms tWentieth century To rate his Is point Mr Mi Bendel Bendel Ben Ben- del explained that tha t the straight chemise frock which has become al alm almost almost al- al m most st uniform is not a favorite with designers or creators of costumes It is easily copied adapts adapts- itself to all figures and tends to mal make e women look 1001 alike Instead of or indi indi- via vidual ual S But the f straight raight rather unadorned frock suits a strenuous age alte that moves speedily and people who think quickly S speak ak and have no time for the gracious coult courtesies cour coul t sies and formalities of a less commercial commercial com com- mercial age limit But In Ue the simplicity of to today to- to tIny day Mr points point out ont there are tre pitfalls I Ihie ine and c cut t must be perfect a as Tell elI ns Os and materials A must not at conflict with the tV And most of all a woman must have an instinct for lines Sno ne I must know how to make male her lines seem long and flowing if if- she is short and amI to camouflage a a. tad Lad neck nek I or 01 shoulders sho without to do lo I S so ab I Tl Tile The e photograph shows an ada adaa- adaa a- a tiOn n of a l Callot model Mr aIr Bendel made for Mary Iary Young the actress and Illustrates how much labora- labora tion anti and nd style may be put put into a simple chemise type of frock without without without with with- out confusing the line or making It tt impractical for tor dancing or theatre theat-re wear The back ack is extremely low l pointed ed out because Miss Mis Young has a back perfect enough to stand such revel revelation But this same model could have been built up hI the back to suit any shoulder line The Tile white ermine coat Is in perfect per per- proportion for her figure Had she been shorter or taller it would have been proportioned differently There ore are stout tout today today to- to day parading about in from front the the- floor picture of 01 f cro- cro limit makes then them themI I o UI cly repulsive The same gown dropped droppel to a conservative distance from the floor would have hao style st and beauty can be bo no beauty without h OP 01 proportion Cop Copyright right 1924 NEit EA Service Ser Inc |