Show I Ii DAIL Y HASKIN LETTER LETTER I 5 i HAND WEAVING S 5 i. i I I i I 4 By FREDERIC J. J HASKIN Wom Women n of or toda today aj an a s bringing handS hand S w weaving vIng as an accomplishment Int Into fashion fash- fash ion lon no doubt t to preserve the technique v. v h by which they they- once clothed all the tho naJ nil na- na J of or man fabricated his hia tent ahel- ahel S J tew terR e his Ornaments fIsh nets and h his hie S S blankets blanket Driven Drien almost out of being beI before be- be I tore fore the competition of or versatile auto- auto power driven machines hand a teemed destined d to beco become one of the lost Jest arts Here Here and there In out o or of the way placed where civilization J only Only- penetrates occasionally in the way of curious pilgrims adventure arid trade I p people popI ople who understand cat catering to appetites ap ap- ap petites for novel hand weaving maintains maint main main- t I a decreasing practice Even to the thee e places come productions of or tho power ower mills demonstrating that the commercial com corn mercial value alue of finger rinser technique is' is Is is' fast rl to to an end Navajo blankets V rugs certain brocades and ca cashmeres cash cash- h- h I meres mert's sun still contest upon the textile mar- mar with fabrics of the power loom There 1 i IK a a. sentiment nt In their favor which the fl flying bobbin the needle and frame of ste steel stel 1 l cannot iannot 11 not Impart 1 Hand weaving however ls Is nO 18 now how being I ved vocation It has lias Jev Obsolete as a f become became an accomplishment It Is beingS being S taught In girls girls' seminaries In the he pub pub- 5 T lie He In tn normal schools and In 5 schools of handicraft Its commercial value is 18 confined to 10 patterns of highly II intricate design For all oth other r purposes J the power posye loom loom- making J It possible for forone forone forone one weaver wea to att attend nd to from from four to twenty four looms each weaving from I o to tn threads a a minute has hason on Won onn a n Indisputable victory S Children Arc Taught I In the public schools and kindergartens ns the c children n are taught to nea c baskets bas bas- basS basSI paper designs rag carpets and ana finally cloths and ru rugs s. s This work ork de develops develops lIc de- their thir taste both of their thel- hands in In deftness l teaches es them the S of or design and fosters rosters the growth of of- patI pa- pa f tI In industry perseverance economy economy In in inthe f the u use e of or mat materials perception and con- con creates a community feeling and ond a wholesale appreciation of or labor fi 1 and supplies a mechanical balance toS to S l school chool life JIlt S At tJi the Mechanic I In Institute Rochester f X N. Y th th highest types of Creative artistic artis- artis S J tic lie work worle am are lau taught hL Mr dri W W. II Allen Alien I V t J o of t this Institute ha na has more than Utan 6 0 co- co designs design of weave et li Iii themselves an anI I almost complete history commentary of 1 th the textile art of the thc colonies colonIS Som Somo m oJ of t the names name of or these there designs are Braddocks Brad S dockA docks Defeat 1 at The Th Mayflower Phil S S 1 5 Pavement pa Wa Diamond Dia Dla mond and man many others dating between n S and an ISM 1800 S Made d on Hand Haud Looms I T are still made mado on hand handlooms handI I I looms leoma mt and t the e colored de design are worked I In b by bt finger t r Some Q Q the pr present noted I 11 studios 1105 where this work Is 18 done are arc th the atelier In Paris the weaving 1 sheds of ot lt Merton Merlon ton abbey In England antI ant I S th th of oC Albert in America s. s Some of or the richest works work of olden time tim tap t c rival rha the painters painter's mBa mas in their wonderful art and fidelity fl fl- 2 delity to detail de Weaving spinning and the preparation 1 S of Ut textile were performed d by hanc I until tha the end cud endor of or the eighteenth century It was wu between 1750 and anti that th the he wonderful strIdes j jere were ere made in the t textile tex tex- octile oc- oc S tile Industry which have hac brou brought ht It U to toJ J a a point where about one fifth of ot the tb Ua a 5 Is en engaged a ed in weaving wearing It H a f Rm tilled branches and the the- distribution itt o of ot t x 4 It its products With but little improvement Improvement improve improve- S 'S ment the Tude rudest t tools tool were employed em ii In ri 5 5 sloth cloth making for centuries les The distaff distal r and u used td In spinning WIll w-ll Cl nto the fourteenth o tc wh when n th lb thi the e i wheel toolY place place- to remain Ii In v t 0 1 years Ui the tho e pro production of cloth remained an au Indus Indus- try the home Tho The factory system wt 5 1 5 ushered In with lt Its it period of or brilliant t growth s which began In tn 1735 17 wh when t John Job n Wyatt or r f Birmingham England con con- 4 t the e drawing dra roll a rolla a anI and built Ui the e 7 f first machine for tho the spinning of or thread without the u use tiie e of the tho fingers of the succeeding fifty The stOl story ng r years CArs ears is 8 one of revolution re In the textile I industries Lewis Paul working with Wyatt evolved a cylinder carding machIne machine ma ma- c chine hine in 1748 John Kay HAY in 1733 3 in invented In In- v vented the flying shuttle doubling tho the output o of or the weaver b by removing remo this o operation from Crom the te direct province of his I I fi fingers This was Improved in 1750 Ills son on s R Robert Rebert bert Kay Invented the tho drop box ox I Io In n 1760 simplifying tho the working with col cot o ors rs I es succeeded with his spinning spin spin- n ning Jenny a machine for spinning a 80 number of Ut threads at once between 1764 a and nd 1767 I Improves Machine I S Arkwright ht Improved this machine In 1 1763 and Crompton with his mule frame combined the best feature of or the Arkwright Arkwright Ark Ark- wright and Hargreaves machines In 1779 Lees a added ded the apron feed reed and Dr Edmund Ed Ed- mund n-iund Cartwright applied steam by 1790 1190 taking th the work of or making thread out of I I tile tha spinners spinner's hands and making him overseer of or a machine Dr Cartwright I Invented the tho power loom In 1794 when the tho weaver as a craftsman began to forget torget his finger fluger cunning Whitneys Whitney's cotton cotton cotton cot cot- ton gin In In 1794 and Roberts Robert's self acting mule In 1830 completed d the cycle cdo of at In Inventions inventions inventions' In in- and laid sure eure foundations for fOL the great factory production of textiles of ot Ih the present In the tile hort period of or I I fifty ears yeam ears mans man's Inventive genius had robbed his lila womenfolk of the tho greater part of oC th the work w which had been theirs sinCe the dawn of or history W Weaving ll a I la one of or the most of or oraU nil all the arts Probably robab almost coincident with thi th first steps toward community I life wen weaving In has among amon al' al peoples with their earliest impulses to toward toward to- to ward waLd civilization It origin has hils been I placed in central Asia I I I Sinews rushes harks haiku reeds reed grasses i rawhide m and vine were er among the tha first mater materials als to be bo used Th Those These wel I made Into mats snares fish nets tents and articles of or clothing b by tying tIng twin twin- I Ing tl twisting knotting and Interlacing Split Spilt can canes OK and willow were used In wIckerwork wIck wIck- wickerwork basketry Women likely were th the first artificers Flax an and wool were UI used tilted cd before man had learned to work m metal ta The manufacture of cotton was vau u. u well U developed In Industry In India before borore time the lows Jaws of Manu Menu 1000 B. B C c. I which give ve regulations concerning Its I fabrication There is It no knowledge of or a time limo J the use of silk In China though tho the most ancient writers of the empire attribute its He discovery to one of th lie wives of r tl the Emp Emperor TI Hoang-TI railed SI- SI St Ri about 2600 B 13 C. C Almost every ven species of cloth s se seems ms to have been m mad niad d In ancl anci ancient nt times In fo foot fact t the t technique entering Into om iome of the th att art w waves eaves of the tho ancients seenia to ha have been Io lost t. t. t Certain German arclie- arclie ha hit have o been satisfied b by their stud study of or Egyptian monuments nt that the tho power loom luom was was as known to the civilization of or the tho Nib 1110 valley alley a II e These looms are sup sup- posed to ha have hae e been capa capable blo of well weaving Ing X webs at once and anti or of building up si six and ply seven c carpets It is I said Mid that some Home of or the th devices patented by our weavers Jv but a te few years before are found in iii on E Egyptian n remains of thousands thou thou- sands lands of years year ago The origin of or cloth ort Is preserved to u us l In many trade names ranies These Thes are I 3 Ben Ben- en- en gals ial a kind of frizzled n net t Ba Bagdad dad lace cash cash- cashmer mer Pekin brocades Canton crepes and damask Certain materials In ancient times were ere c characteristic c of ot nations Wool was al principally lly ur used d itt In Palestine and Syria In Asia Minor Greece Ita Italy I and slid Spain hemp It In the northern countries of or Europe flax In Eg EgYpt pt silk in central A Asia and cotton cottoS In India How however all ver a animal vegetable i A and mineral materials used heed in weaving Wea now hav have been MO so o used throughout historic his his- i Sheep's wool GOats hair beavers beaver's wool camels camel's a mels mel's hair silk link flax finx- finx hemp cotton gold f silver r and I tos w were WM-O ro as ae well wall in ancient weaves I Ins Ins' toda today is J a fiber r takemi from Q bivalve e shellfish found near the tho shores of or south Ital Italy Tie The fiber holds the fast upon th the sands lands Famous Famo for or Texture Woolens of or ancient t Melitus were famous fa fa- fa famous farnous for their soft texture The Hindus produced exquisite confections on their looms which in delicacy and fa cannot cannot can can- not b bo be surpassed d ul upon n machines machine To this work th the Hindu brought his box Inex store of ot patience and pro proba proa- a- a bly also alfo lila 1118 desire for Cor avoiding B bodily cx exertion Some of or th the Hindu weaves CAU show Mho their artificers to have hava been pos pos- of or an acuteness s of or lI and a flexibility and delicacy of or linger finger r work which is III ma marvelous Ther ore are three principles principle Involved hn Ir In 11 hand or power weaving First the or th the raising and lowering of roC tho tM warp wap threads thre or threads th tIia tha J. J run the length of tho the cloth second the picking or ortho orthe tho weaving of Ir Irne ne he e filling t threads the weft back and forth and third the tha battening or the packing down of or the filling Pa Patterns R arc ro produced b by vary vary- In log ing the execution of these processes Y |