Show I DAlL Y HASKIN LETTER I I t t HAND WEAVING I I I f By FREDERIC EDERIC J. J HAS HASIN IN i Women Women- of toda today are ao bringing hand f weaving yN a as an accomplishment Into fashion fash fash- ion no doubt to preserve the b by which thoy they once clothed all tho naI na- na I lions of or man nian fabricated his t tent nt sheil shel- shel l tera his hie ornaments fish Ish nets and his hits blankets Driven almost out of or being g be before be- be fore fote the he competition of or versatile automatic auto auto- matic power driven machines hand weaving lu seemed destined to become one ono 1 i of oC the lost lost- arts litts Here and there in inv Int v t out of ot the Ule way places where civilization 5 only penetrates penetrates- occasionally In the way t of or curious ll adventure and trade A. A people who understand catering to ap- ap for th the novel noyel hand weaving maln- maln t a n decreasing practice cUce Even to 1 th come productions n of the power mill millie demonstrating that the commercial como com corn o mercial value of or nn finger er technique Is 18 fast ut fastI I t drawing to an end n Navajo t Per Persian lan tugs rugs certain brocades and cashmeres cash- cash I i meres still contest upon the textile markel market marRet mar- mar 1 Ret kel with fabrics of the power lower loom Theta Is ff a sentiment In tu their favor which the flying bobbin the n needle edle and frame of ot steel cannot annot Impart i Hand Bend weaving however Is now notY being r Obsolete an as a a. vocation It has lias 1 become an accomplishment It Itis Is being belot j taught In girls' girls seminaries In the pub pub- lie 1 schools in normal schools In schools cho hs of 01 handicraft Its He commercial I to patterns of or highly 1 Jf Intricate design For all alt other purposes a the power loom making It possible for tor fori i f i on one weaver T to attend to from four to twenty four looms borne each weaving wea from fromi i to threads a minute has won n 1 Indisputable victory j Children Are Arc Taught In lu public schools and kindergartens the he children ore are taught to w weave wese le baa ba- tJ f de designs ta tag carpets and f a an and rugs This work de- de r their thIr taste both of their hands handa 2 it In s teaches them rudiments A rf of of ot design and fosters th the growth Q pf P pa- pa s tience industry Ind perseverance erance economy In t iv th the use of materials material pr perception and con- con creates a community feeling and d. a wholesale le appreciation of labor Jabor and supplied f n a mechanical b balance lance to school life Hie r r 1 At t t the Mechanics Mechanics' l fn In institute J V x Y Y- the highest t type tp or Ir creative artist BrUst arils arils- ft t t tI lie wont ar are J tau taught hl irV W r. l. H. i. i lIen Allen Ji q c of if t this Institute has han more than fIO co co co- tf d designs l ns of weave In iii an en 1 almost complete history hll commentary of or l J th the textile art of or the colonies Some Sam o of or ofA A 4 th the th names of or these designs ar arc Braddocks Brad 1 docks dock's Defeat Detent The Mayflower Phil R Pavement Dla- Dla t lond mond and nd man many fly others ethers dating between n X 1754 11 and 1800 SOO Mido Mado ou Mado-ou on Hand Looms are still made on hand handlooms looms and nd the colored designs desin ar are worked In h hy n f fluger r. r tome Some of or present noted studios t dl where here this work i Is done are RU the atelier in In Paris the thc weaving 4 4 i of or Merton abbey In England and th th the atu studios los of or Albert In A America merlea omo 4 x r Some mc of the richest worl works s of olden Iden time timeS i S- S etry ta artificers artificer rival al the painters painter's ma mu mas- tf In their wonderful wonderful art and ft ft- to detail spinning and the thc pr preparation I d- d tf fibers were p b by ha harm hand n th the en end l of or the c l lite ill cit It wn was between 1750 and anel that the wonderful strides were made In the tex tax V Ule thie Industry tr h have ve brought It to tc toa p a 8 point where about oni one ot of th the TI world is engaged In weaving It Its 1 i Allied brandies and the tho distribution of ot ofU r I Ua its U i products With but little Improve Improve- I m men n nt the tools were ere em employed loed In tn I I cloth loth for or centuries II The Tha distaff distaffs s i 4 4 tl- tl spindle s were ro In spinning wet pInning w l linto IL L. L I i into th the fourteenth c when hen th the j rl r took their pinco to remain I InA tn et t 90 00 U year the thu of ot cloth tema remained Cd an I it orth th home homi The factory system w wet U I hered In with tt IU fa period erint of or brilliant t r w which began In- In when John Johi ot of England con con e the c drawing rotten and built buill tha the i. i I fi first machine for the spinning spinning- of thread w without the tho use uso of the fingers n Th The Tho stor story of oC tho the succeeding nt fifty t y ears years is one of ot revolution re In the textile I Industries t Lewis Paul working with W Wyatt evolved coved a cylinder carding cardini machIno ma- ma chIno hIne c In in 1748 1749 John KA Kay In itt 1738 In Invented Invented In- In v vented the flying ln shuttle doubling the o output of the caver weaver b by removing this operation o from the direct province of his li lingers This was Voas Improved In 1750 Iii 1113 I on Kon Robert Kay Invented tho the drop box In i n 1760 1764 simplifying the tho working with col- col 0 oia 1 5 succeeded with wiLh 1 hi his spinning spin pin ning fl ing Jenny a machine for spinning a number umber n of threads at once between 1764 a and nd 17 1767 1757 7 I Improves Machine ArkwrIght Improved this machine in 1 and Crompton with his mule frame c combined the best feature of or the Ark Ark- w right and Hargreaves machines in 1779 1770 L Lees ees added the tho apron feed reed and Dr Edmund Edmund Edmund Ed Ed- mund Cartwright applied steam by 1700 t aking the work of oC making thread out ofha of ot t tho ha hands and making him o overseer o of ot a 0 machine Dr Cartwright I Invented In tho the power loom boom In 1794 wh when shen n tho he t weaver as BS a craftsman began bogan to f forget torget his finger n er cunning Whitneys Whitney's s coton cotton cotton cot cot- t ton on gin sin In 1734 1794 and Roberts Robert's self eif acting mule In 1830 completed tb lh the cycle ccle of In- In rt and lal laid 1 sure sura foundations foundations' for tor forthe t the he great factory production of or textiles s sor o of or f the he pr present In the short period of fifty years ears mans man's Inventive In genius had Jears r robbe robbed his womenfolk of 1 the he greater Grenter part o 0 of f th the work which had been theirs ii since uCc t the he da dawn of ot history Weaving Is one of or the most orell of or a ell all ll the art art Probably almost coincident with the lie first steps stops toward community l lie ife V weaving has among all p peoples with their carlle earliest t Impulses to toward toward toward to- to ward civilization civilisation Uon It Iii It origin has been placed In III central Afla Asia Sinews rushes barks bark reeds grasses rawhide and vine Ioe were among tho the materials to be used These were made mado Into mats snares snare fish nets tents and articles of ot clothing clothing- by tying twin twin- log ing twisting knot knotting tins and Interlacing Split canes an and ond willow were used In wickerwork wick wick- basketry Women lIkel likely were the tha first nt artificers Flax and wool were u Used ed man had learned to work met metal match tl The manufacture of r cotton cloth was wasa a a. well eloped developed Industry In India th the laws lawn of ot Il Mann U. U 1000 B B. B C C- I which give r regulations con concerning Its fabrication There Is 18 a no knowledge of or a Q before tho u use of silk Bilk In China though tho the most mot ancient writers of or the empire attribute Its discovery to one of ot t the e wives lve wh of or the Emperor TI Hoang-TI railed called Si Ling about 2600 B B. B C C. Almost ocr every overy species of or cloth seems to have ha been made In ancient clent times Umes In tact fact tho the technique entering Into some of ot ln thA alt ait t. t weaves ve of or the tho ancients seems scam to ben been lo lost t. t Certain German are ar arCe- arCe e- e have ha b ben been En fattened d b by th their lr study of or Egyptian that tho the power watt known kown to lo the civilization of or the alley T Tieso looms loom are ore sup sup- posed to have tu been capable of ot weaving sixteen webs at Rt once and of or building UP six Mx and seven ply carpets carpet it is ts said that some bomo of the devices patented by our but a few re-n. years before are found In Jn detail deull on Egyptian r malna remains of thou thou- sands of r years urs ago The origin o of cloth sorts aorta Is III preserved reserve to u in ht man many trade nantes names hee arc Na Nankeen Bengala Ben Ben- gals gala La chores BUngo 8 a kind of ot net Bagdad 1 lac S c cash sh- sh mere brocades Canton crepes crepea and damask Certain materials In ancient times were ere characteristic of ot particular nations on W Wool 5 was a Principally used In Pal Palestine and Syria In Asia Minor Gr Greece cc Hal Italy and Spain hemp In the nort northern em countries of or Europe flax In Egypt silk In central Asia and cotton In India However nil Il II animal an anti l mineral materials ml used In 10 weaving w now hav have been so 80 used TIlled throughout his hla- tone times Sheep Sheep's wool goats goat's hair heaver heavers wool camels camel's hair lual silk flax flax h hemp mp cotton gold silver er tos w were ro as well known In Jn an ancient lent weaves n nil tta S tOda today ill hi R. R taken from 11 a bivalve lj found near the shores hore of ot south ItAI Italy The fiber holds the pInn fast fact upon the sands Famous for tor Texture Woolens of or ancient were ere fa famous famous Ta- Ta for tor their soft oft te texture tur The Hindus produced produce exquisite confections on their looms which In delicacy and fineness cannot cannot cannot can can- not bo bl surpassed upon machines To this work th the Hindu brought his lne Inex- Inex store of ot patience and probably probably proba proba- bl bly also alco his his' desire for Cor avoiding bodily ex exertion Some Somo of oC tho tM Hindu weave weaves show how their artificers to have been possessed rOSe pos pos pos- s ec of or an acuteness of or sense en e end and a 4 flexibility and delicacy of or finger work which Is marvelous There ore ort three principles Involved t t In hand or power weaving 1 th the sited shed ding or 01 the thel raising and lowering r of the warp threads or threads thread that thal run the length of or the cloth second the picking or the weaving of the filling threads the waft beck back and find forth and nd third the or the down down of or the piling Patterns arc produced b by vary vary- log ing th the execution of these processes |