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Show T A Walking Gown lr the Autumn Shade of Leaf Brown Moire 811k U '' ' Model Designed by Lady Duff Gordon Owritfat I8i4.fr Xudie. IS V vS&i wrf A if 7"Mw(&Mm Ml 11 Ni4ffS i f . ym M v ( n X' -r Sx rV Street Gown of Dark Green Serge Luclle Calls TWi Costume the Glrondln Because It Is Rem! nlscentof the French Revolution Model Designed by Lady Duff Gordon Cbwrteht 191. bj TocHe." A Popular Fall Costume Is le Sent er (the Path), Designed of Dark Blue Covert Cloth for the Street Model Designed by Lady Duff Gordon, Ctopjlteht, ISO Iff India." If Rv-jl ip Jf 11 U II ' ' I Luelle's Favorite Dancing Gown Which She Has ' Named Spectre de la Rose (Ghost of the Rose) In Three Shades of Rose with Transparent Effects of Point de Alencon Lace Model Designed by Lady Duff Gordon OopyrWht; 191 by LucUe By Lady Duff Gordon. THE dominant note In the Autumn modes as they may be descried more or less clearly on the hort zon of events is the skift that is of nar row almost trouserlike effect at the ankles scarcely-wider at the knees but that billows from the waist line in one wide ripple after another One gown of which you see a picture on this page is of such distinctly Turk Ish silhouette that I have given to it the name Ishkowdah The effect Is audacious yet graceful aa though some charming girl were masquerading in her twin brothel's trousers and loose Chi nese-llke shirt yet dominating the cos tume by her grace and girlishness This model which already in Paris has become popular I have made in dark blue and In champagne colored serge The lines of the skirt re straight and It Is so scant as to barely permit a generous step giving the wearer "an especially feminized and al most Japanized walk The skirt like coat falls in graceful lines Just above the knees It id low and square cut at the bust line where It is edged with wide plaitlngs of malfne and" at the neck with a soft Medici colTairof the mar line The sleeves ere fairly full and at the-wrist the-wrist bell shaped. The dominant note to which I have referred reappears in what I have named the Glrondln because there is that In its lines that suggests the nearly for" gotten spirit of the French Revolution. Again you see the exceedingly narrow skirt grown a trifle fuller at knees than III PmIt f Novel Autumn J L"?Cr 1 Model of Blue M the Distinctive jl Ishkowdah Jit Model Designed by JS Model Designed W by Lady Duff Gordon ni, LADY DUFF-GORDON the famous ' Luale' of London, and fore- f most creator of fashions in the world writes each week the fashion 1 article for this newspaper, presenting aH that is newest and best in '4f styles for well-dressed women Lady Duff Gordon s Pam estabhshmait bnngs her into close touch with that centre of fashion , ankles but ample in the straight somewhat some-what heavy drapery of the graduated ripple tunic The coat is straight and loose, at the back is slightly fitted at the sides and front The narrow shawlcollar is of corresponding looseness of effect This fhave made on dark green serge In Le Sentier (the Path) is seen the same exceedingly scant skirt But above tile knees: the skirt has a drapery of three full folds one above the other and at least six-inches apart The skirt is part of a- model, mada on princess lines the upper part being of the same material mate-rial depending by narrow bands from the shoulder and wonr over" a plain waist slip of black satin. The coat is full and loose a smart touch being fur nlshed by the broad belt crossing in front beneath the bast line. To the nar' row coat collar a touch of color is given by its topping of brilliant Turkish em broidery in which reds and yellows predominate One of my favorite designs of the new-season new-season is a dainty dancing gown which 1 have named Che Spectre de la Rose (the Ghost of the Rose) It is buQt of taffeta of the palest- rose color The skirt is very narrow and open on the right side to the knee over a petticoat of Point de Alencon lace The drapery consists of three rows of the taffeta graduated from the front to knee length at the back. The twp upper rows of the Bcal Joped silk are ol the pale rose but the lower one is of a deeper shade and peeping from beneath the lower is a full panel of a yet deeper shade In designing the coloring of this lovely gown I have gone straight to nature for my modeL Study the exquisite shading of the- rose from the deep- heart of jt graduating delicately but surely to the pale edges of the outermost row of petals My home at Versailles grazes y the gardens of the palace and looking out upon those gardens in Summer t ft learn many lessons in colors that T afterwards teach tor my disciples in dress The corsage of the Spectre de la Rose Is of pale ecru mallne filled In with Point de Alencon In front A slight garniture of roses- at the girdle deepens the at-mospfiere at-mospfiere of the rose In this, which I regard" as one of the greatest of my trl umphs Even the- crushed" gff dler of the-pale the-pale rose lined withs the deeper shade s bit of the lining turned back is to my mind a model In the true message o elegancer exudes from one of th a. favorite models for the street It is of taffeta in the early Autumn shades Of leaf brown A little heavier than the" taffeta- worn In Summer it is of ff beau-tlful beau-tlful moire in fine almost invisibler stripes- the costume having a- delicate never obtrusive effect of constant change and in the eaTly Autumn Bun light has the effect of sunshine shim merlng on a leaf bottomed brown pool in the forest The skirt Is scant but wider than the more severe walking coBtumes. A knee-length knee-length drapery is of chiffon edged with wide folds of the silk curving from the waist IQe to the back in a gracefully graduated line The upper part of the gown- Is of blouse-like effect finished with a small sailor collar at the back and a- vest of mallne The coat is loose and straight meeting the folds -at the bacE. The simplicity of gown and coat are deepened by rather tight sleeves ending in a narrow cuff" on the" coat and finished by three dainty buttons-on-the gown. |
