| Show I I j S S S r 5 l I i i I Ni V i f Ii I 1i 1 j jl I II l I I i i < I k I i1 tS1 I I I II I I i I i r I l II I lTTiI lTTi IL i x c S J fj il I i r i jI I I I F I t If Y f r 1 1 t I 4 LIS t t IAi P Z5 5 tS I IF L lifi f l r 1 iiifJ Wrt cs j i V Mti I 1I it > 55 iwl S Ii S j r A debutantes frock is first last and alvays a creation of fluffs and frills S and the charming affair uketchod is of embroidered whito mOll > lclino do ooie Wreath of chiffon flowers outline the bottom of tho ckirt and tho low coruago II which is hold In placo with graceful folds of plain chiffon A docp belt of aanno v lvit enoirolos tho wai6t t S S I r AJ JjJA In AAJ II J A d A J AA A I A 111 A AA I A fJtA A A A I A A I J A r2K11 < 1 3 1 1 M 1 i j i o1 fc L O > > 5 otZ1Jz + ot < r < t > y 5 ft NE W YEARS FASHION Of PAR S Ii 1 > tt rt t + ot t A t 4Jt 0 t o + 1 > 0 f tl yw 0 < 11 > i v 1 yji jV I IJI M 4 or S 6 1r 1 VyY19j tI I IV VV fiV VtVV V VI utrs Dec 12H all the good I tL wishes for a happy new year a could be realized what a delightful de-lightful place the world at large and Pails In particulai would be Happiness If I a relative term but sure > some oC the staple fcatuies of this estate arc health sufficient wealth Inefficient attempts op the part of fate to worry us old lends unchanged and new filenda that will grow into old ones All these good things we doubtless doubt-less would possess were we masters of our fate But as we all are not darlings dar-lings of the gods we take the gifta they piovlde and make a vh Lue of necessity ne-cessity Since in the heart of every woman worth the name the success of hci clothes is hound up with her happiness let our New Yeiis electing extend to my ladys wardrobe May she lie beautifully and becomingly at thcil I through the coming rear Sat toiial belongIngs arc said to contribute meicly to material well being but even no they arc not to be despised It seems to me that theie is a decided menial uplift to be gained from a chic costume and it Is no display or weakness weak-ness to acknowledge this clothes prop In gomy the rounds of the gay capital capi-tal where smart society most does congregate a glance at the fair women arrayed In their stunning new winter clothes gIves one the impression oC time having turned backwaid In its flight The misc en scene is as It should be the auto cars flying machines ma-chines wireless telegraphy and the modern improvements are all decidedly 1005 and almost 1901 but the women In their 1S30 gowns are anachronl To be suio these Victorian effects have been remodeled to suit the new con turys needs A return to Victorian fashions in their entirety would mean a ictuin to the drooping narrow shoulder shoul-der line too often seen before athletics I became a part of womans life It is a question whether the women of today would give up their proud breadth of shoulder and deep breathing breath-ing for any fad of fashion In the present pres-ent revived modes we retain all these athletic prlvllcgej and achieve the old world air as well thanks to the skill and Ingenuity of clever designeis It is one of the sIgns of the times that these ISJO ideas were brought out by the Paris dressmakers more than a year ago but it is only this season that I they are making their appearance felt to any great extent The quaint styles of the days that are no more atc partlculaily pretty for the ball costume evening frock and ever useful house gown We are not restricted however to one eta and the many mindedness of modes at once both helps and hinders ones choice Steering lo more difficult In these conflicting tides For Instance the horizontal line IH an all important factor In the smart costume just now At the aamo time the perpendicular has its decided influence Indeed both lines are often to be seen in the same gown Perpendicular lines Introduced with the horizontal correct the shortening short-ening and widening effect ot tho latter In fact enaUlo a short woman to stand a horizontally decorated cou tume As an Illustration of bow these two I fj1VQ V v yifY l tV I 1 VYV V 1 IfVt V ryf7 lines work together for good the peler Inc stole may be cited The ionG tole encl In this popular garment balance the wide cape effect and the blending Is most successful Still another example ex-ample is found In the double decker skirta which to obviate the horIzontal i line have wide utiappnigs running ocr I their three tiers from waist to hem Just now line la a more restraIning motive than color Indeed one might say that color has never at any time I much to do with chic I saw a woman the other clay in a coat and hat of a beautiful red shade which if cut and S f S r M 4Y h14 I t i4I rAj S i v1 S I S S J f S F OPERA CLOAK OF ERMINE worn correctly would have been a charming costume In thIn instance with oveiy line In the coat hopelessly wronG and the hat tilted at an Impossible Impos-sible angle the effect wan anything but pleasing Just beside hcrJJ1 two types were seated at a concert was a girl dresbcd entirely In black but HO i artistic and charming In silhouette that she was altogether chic Bands of cloth or of any dress fabric stitched by machine In rows oC solid colored nllk or different shaden ot one color and othciu uC harmonizInG tones oC many colors aie used as a trimming trim-ming on the most exclusive toilets Thane bandn fire inserted on some gowns between other bands of fur and tho combination is singularly good Variety of a very original character gave Bplce to a useful day gown designed de-signed by Doeulllet Thin dainty frock was oC rather coarse and wiry mole colored canvas On tho skirt and waist were insertions of drawn work made by pulllne the threads tho canvas ITf lffY1 frV r ItyVyvyV 1 If Y Itself as if It were a hemstitched tablecloth ta-blecloth Above the diawn work was embroidered a design done In lose colored col-ored crowds A rose hucd belt of suede fastened with a large square rose coral buckle finished the original touches on this delightful gown A picture fiock In blue mousseline velouis is a beautiful icstauiant toilet toi-let The new lapis lazuli is the best blue of all Italian sea and sky blue in hue which is neither navy royal or turquoise hut combines the virtues of all three The skirt of this gown has no timiming to mar its glorious fullness full-ness and dignity of mien is added to the corsage by a bertha of ivory toned Flandeis lace and great buttons of carved lapis lazuli 1 With It goes a hat with a jam pot crown in old Ivory toned felt lined with laps lazuli beaver and an oval buckle holding a couple of sweeping Lea th cis shading from blue to ivory Could anything be more chaiming than this costume Pails looks as though the days of the first empire had returned so universal univer-sal has the wearing of violets become nor as a corsage flower but as an Ot namentatlon on the smart new hats In several shades bunches of these blossoms adorn many of the trlcorne hats I hatsRibbon Ribbon rosettes which are so popular popu-lar on hats aie being employed with quite as much success on dressy gowns An aftei noon frock of crepe de chine was tilinmecl with flounces of coarse lace headed with rows of ribbon rosettes ro-settes In the woild of furs this year we have so far seen little 01 nothing of stone marten pelt Now It is brought forward as a demlseason novelty The cream and white of this hitherto neglected neg-lected fur are very becoming and a pelerine pel-erine fichu and enormous pillow muff destined later for wear on the Riviera arc things of beauty This set Is made up entirely of the marten akin and it Is a positive relief not to see in one seta set-a mixture of furs Nowadays the characteristics char-acteristics of different fur bearing animals an-imals never seem to be let alone They swap heads and tails and are mixed up In a sort of happy family at the fair1 manner Fur garments are betrimmed beeorded and betasseled until all the gracIousness and the value of the skin Is lost In the matter of jewels emeralds are the favorites and when one cannot afford af-ford these expensive gems peridots arc an excellent substitute I saw such a charming hair ornament the other day of all green Iridescent Mercury wings divided by a heart1 Did it mean that hearts take to themselves wings and fly away I wonder Anyway these fliers will be veiy pretty while they light on beautys head The most stunning ornament for wavy tresses Is a twist of tulle to match ones hair with a pair of diamond dia-mond tassels with dangling fringes to finish it off These tauscls are awfully attractive also as a finish for a tulle knot at ones throat The live diamond stars VTC thought so fetching a little while ago where are they As well inquire about the snows of ycaiyryoa So you sue we are an lleklc in our fashions as we are In our fancies CATHERINE TALBOT W Wfi 1r lii1 n Ai 5 r S l 0J li1f Jtff 4 tilIIJtII W ifJIit 1ii zt1 J 2r I ff tt t 1 1 W i > i lif 1 < iW tiiIill 1ij bY tiiIillrfii1 HJ iiH1E < i r > < i T r 16 f r r c I t 4riI I I I it eIt2t I S f S I IJ 5 2 t 5 5 S < J t I it i 1lrwf A t 1it1a 1 ftf1hl t t r i G f I < i I P r t t < tiWNJ ii iiNii iM fI0 lii tt p j > Ji ll W S 8 t tkJIfrt I I llI I tii M 1tJti 1Jit i ijfi J 14 I Wt I lfi j 1 t uhiqtt V I r j l rti f i i i i10 fqi i fig rri FjU i > If 1 jIi i ilf I ill1 n 1fr1I iff rI t l f P I J 7 1 A = = riiw I I i If iiiNlW l21 i y y r1 ffJi < W > j h t It I I t 1 t i < 1IlI1h 6i J f u J tRElf 1 tIt t yyc J J z ij f r fotr I C1rtilf o ft 1 tl 1 ill J r i 1 O V 1 j I tt 1 i i t I tMf r ij > I t f i i I J 0 J I < w i i1 t f i j > i C k I I KJs i t 1l 6 f IBJ rgj f li J f1 IWi I tvi A 1 I i lN > iL rtWWWi rl I r U I I L7 I i I 55 S5 k y I f J > V Vf 5 5 S I This dainty afternoon gown is of violet velvet The skirt fitting plain t I about the hips has a rtifrlc at the Unoo which is not in the Icact clumsy ao the velvet is of the nov cuplino variety Very unique ia the adaptation of lace motifs ns a finish headed with a band of ermine The name trimming forms a collar and stole ends on tho bloused waist High cuffs of ermine meet the uppor sUovo of velvet I |
