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Show v second much narrower. The jacket bodice t 2 IfrX should be tight-nttinir and rather long, and " r. outlined, as on the skirt, by one broad braid, t rZ. -7 followed by a narrower one, worked fanci- i Pjr y in tne corner- A Test of wide hopsack -i C&Jrt I )xS-V5' button rigidly from the chin down. i-- m) Any woman with a black silk house gown jl'!iimj Bhe propose altering: or making; will find Tui taPPT suggestions in a model that appears f --eMM t0 combine every advantaee. It has the I "J1?1 81mple bell skirt, with two tiny frills I ffli jB n A " of black aud scarlet ribbon about the edre JjTjrWt the Drignt color underneath. The bodice I i&'i'-'&A 1 ill ha a 8ofVull front of the silk, dragged i ;ffl x&fi jk m ! - '- skillfully around so as to make bll the folds & wBnlHliTTTT)Y 4 Vs . J rM'mi run dionMy from right to left. A frill to I fey11 'J-i Xil W-r " match the skirt ruffles finishes it about the 1ST m &r!ik LMv ed?e. w'hile small zouave of rarest silk, P M& M-mrify il itV braided in black, fits over the bust, and ii I ucedered by sort of coarse black crochet I 3p3?vZutc , Th Aathor of the Unique Idea Still I-0!, hfW" J Alive, f IS'S. 7 Mr8- Amelia Bloomer, who gave her name ; ,4,Sr Cr- . to one of the earliet of "reform" dresses, HIHtxlMllrK 1 is still alive, a gentle little old lady in good ? ''If fz$&M. " " health, at Council Bluffs, Iowa, where she has lived for the last thirty second much narrower. The jacket bodice should be tight-nttm and rather long, and outlined, as on the skirt, by one broad braid, followed by a narrower one, worked fanci. fully in the corners. A vest of wide hopsack buttons rigidly from the chin down. Any woman with a black silk house gown she proposes altering or making will find happy suggestions in a model that appears to combine every advantaee. It has the usual simple bell skirt, with two tiny frills of black aud scarlet ribbon about the edge the bright color underneath. The bodice has a soft, full front of the silk, dragged skillfully around so as to make kU the folds run diagonally from right to left. A frill to match the skirt ruffles finishes it about the edge, while a small zouave of rarest silk, braided in black, fits over the bust, and ii bordered by a sort of coarse black crochet lace. ABOUT GENTLEMEN. i Ton Find True Man and Ton Find a " Gentleman. When you hare found a man you hare not far to go to find a gentleman. You cannot make a gold ring out of brass. You cannot :t change a Cape crystal to a diamond. You i cannot make a gentleman till you first find a t man. To be a gentleman does not depend j upon" the tailor or the toilet Blood will de- generate. Good clothe are not good habits. A gentleman is arentle, modest and eourte- ous; he is slow to take offense, as being one who never gires it; he is slow to surmise evil, as being ono who never thinks it; he ubjects his appetites, refines his tastes, subdues sub-dues his feelings, controls his speech, and deems everybody better than himself, "lie should labor and study to be a leader unto virtue and a notable promoter thereof, di-K di-K recting and exciting men thereto by his 1 exemplary conversation; encouraging; them I by his countenance and authority ; rewarding I the goodness of meaner people, by his I beauty and favor." THE BLOOMER COSTUME. The Author of the Unique Idea Still Alire. Mrs. Amelia Bloomer, who gave her name to one of the earliest of "reform" dresses, is still alive, a gentle little old lady in good health, at Council Bluffs, Iowa, where she has lived for the last thirty years. The Bloomer never received popular favor, and an Eu-flish contemporary thinks its hopeless hope-less ugliness would make it impossible today, to-day, even with those who do not recognize the absurdity of wearing "suspenders" outside out-side their bodices. Mrs. Bloomer' original costume was of red and black shot silk, the skirt reachinc four or live inches below the knees, with Turkish trousers of the same material. The one excuse for the hideous Innovation was that the orthodox fashions of 1851 were almost equally ugly, the skirt being stuck out balloonwise over half a dozen or mere stiffly-starched petticoats. petti-coats. "My own opinion," says the English writer, "is that women's dress of today is extremely tasteful and charming, and that it will bear comparison with that of our grandmothers' girl days would, I am sure, be admitted freely by Mrs. Bloomer herself, who so soon discarded her suit of 'propria quse maribus' or, things proper to males." Fashionable Gowns of Black Silks. Beautiful black silk dresses are of the new roujrhly-repped silk, or of bengalino with twisted or spiral reps, made with a round waist and the bell skirt that has a bias fold not seam down the back. The sleeves are ombre velvet, either green or red, usually in two laree pulls from arm-hole to elbow, with a frill of black embroidered lace falling there over a long sleeve of the silk fitted to the arm, yet gathered to drape around it. A high stock collar of the velvet cut bias is folded around the neck, and the girdle is of velvet similarly draped. Wide black lace is sometimes set on in jacket shape. A pretty trimming for the -foot of the skirt is a bias baud of the colored velvet on which falls a kind of fringe made of two rows of loops of black satin ribbon falling from a jet galloon heading. FAIR WOMAN'S FIELD. Bright Itits for Those Who Brighten : Life. Little capes made of cloth, edged with rich galloon or narrow fur, are being prepared pre-pared in the style of coachman's capes three graduated ones. When the really cold weather sets in, long cloaks of velvet or plush, and even satin, lined with wadded and quilted silk or fur, will be used. These wraps will be cut straight and without eleeves, but full at the shoulder, on account of the wide dress sleeves underneath. Jackets Jack-ets are not to be quite discarded, but close-fitting close-fitting bodices, with tight sleeves, will have to be made expressly to wear with them. Hats and bonnets show no change in shape. A felt hat, as cheap as it is pretty, for autumn wear is round, rather flat in . shape, of black felt, and simply trimmed with a huge bow of colored velvet, which extends down the side from front to back. In blnck, with scarlet, it is stylish, but, perhaps, per-haps, is even smarter in brown, with a bow of that curicus shade of lizard green which is just now attracting the Xancy of the Parisians. During the opening seasons satiDs will be worn extensively; also shot and glace velvets. vel-vets. Very few broche silks will be seen. In tbe way of woolens, reps and all varieties of material that have thick ribs across the fabric will be popular. A new cloth or serge gown just now is a necessity to every woman's wardrobe, and nothing will be found more serviceable than a pretty tailor-made dress of chestnut-brown serce. The skirt should be perfectly plain, save for two bands of Russian braid around the bottom, the first three inches wide, the |