Show NEW MILLINERY I IBY BY BEATRICE DOWLER New York l Nov Jov 3 Novelties crowd fine upon another In the realm of mil millinery millinery millinery this month and never nev r has the Variety been so great nor the models so diverse Between the Immense Lam Lamballe Lami i balle hat and the tiny morning toque a veritable chromatic scale of styles and colors has been Introduced nothing be being being being ing considered too startling or sensa sensational sensational sensational to meet the occasion Grapes far from being eliminated from the scheme of matters are introduced intro introduced introduced on large and small hats alike and combined with apples or plums give quite a Bacchanalian appearance to the models Instead of toeing being bear carried out in white as they were during the summer they are designed in rich pur purple purple pIe shades of ot velvet or in gold silver or bronze tissue In some cases minia miniature miniature miniature ture grapes are employed which are little lit little little tle larger than a bunch of currants and In this connection it is interesting to note that these microscopic examples are also employed as hair ornaments to accompany the new gowns In chiffon velvet Elvet which are so popular Wings and plumes are a very Important important important tant factor in the making of the new hat liat models and a remarkable develop development development development ment is shown in the tendency to 0 combine com combine bine several kinds of feathers on one hat shape Ostrich and are frequently placed in conjunction and in some instances are even supplemented with curling coqs plumes in gray black and white Even as regards the soft pads and wings for morning head headgear headgear gear sear the same scheme is employed and a combination of pheas pheasant phe pheasant ant guinea fowl and even peacock dyed In a multiplicity of different col colorings colorIngs colorings Is used with capital effect Purple and leaf green represent a avery avery avery very effective alliance which h is 15 seen in inmany inmany many of the smart hats while parrot green and moleskin are among the oth other other er r leading color combinations of the season As a matter of fact moleskin Jp is almost invariably allied either to or orange orange ange enge pale blue or the more vivid tints of green the supplementary color being Introduced sparingly and with great discretion The smartness of a tally collar that clasps the throat closely is not to be denied fashions devotees t is autumn and happily the material that will be most employed is lace It may be coarse and white like Irish guipure with a over rim at atthe atthe atthe the top or quite fine with a ruffle of tulle to break the hard line of the sum summit summit summit mit Ruffles are certainly only waiting wait waitIng Ing for encouragement to become ubiquitous and I most heartily recommend recommend mend mendi those girls sirls who possess swanlike necks Decks to try the effect of them There are so many picturesque ef effects Sects gained this autumn with brocade and velvet In the way of vests both long and quite short that naturally one looks for the jabot of lace that adds so much to the air of the scheme And happily it Is forthcoming The really smart way of presenting it is In the old form because the ends are twisted in ina a careless manner as were w re those of the young French no nobles nobles nobles bles Who before the battle of had lad no time to arrange their cravats end nd appeared upon the field of war in Endless are th the ways in which the modern cnn be diversified with ends edged with satin or with a chou thou from which fall f flounces tier upon tier of fine net and lace v With the morning m shirt a stock and cravat of Persian handkerchief silk looks well the silk is bordered with and watercress green pat patterns patterns patterns terns and the body color is usually cinnamon or Old Designs Taking the old designs as a guide many expert needlewomen are find findIng finding finding Ing a new occupation for fol the closing autumn evenings and are evolving aU manner of dainty trimmings and frills and wide Fide flounces for the embellishing of their underwear these being carried car carried ried out in lawn the edges scalloped in numberless different styles In many man r I of the antique designs of this work i the running floral pattern which adorned the flounce was made in ad addition adI to t form the basis of the scalloped scalloped loped design as a variation of the con conventional i v rounded edge One of the I favorite schemes was that of the oak oakleaf j leaf the abrupt and alyd jagged edges of the leaves forming a most effective finish to a petticoat flounce while nar narrow narrow narrow row frills were were also adorned with rose designs the outer border of which was I carried out in b Jc edging edkinS and I with clusters of grapes i formed another scheme which had an I extended vogue I Scallop Embroidery Scallop embroidery might almost I have been regarded regard rd as a lost art until a afew afew afew few months ago and except as bor bordering bordering dering flannel underskirts or i underwear it is long since edging of I this description entered Into the scheme of ot dress Now however many manyan manyan I Ian an old flounce and collar embroidered 1 by b hands is proving veritable ver veritable verI to those who are arc i fortunate enough to have inherited i ithem them and these little personal relics of wearing apparel which form a link with the past of eighty or a 3 hundred years ago are ure filling a role in modern fashions which we cannot afford to discard nowadays Early E Manifestations of Fur The furriers are showing the first fruits of fashions edicts for the win winter ter terin in the form torm of o fur boleros made of or seal and sable and chinchilla chin chinchilla chinchilla chilla Upon very smart sm rt evening coats bands of ermine and of ot Chinchilla are re posed and the smartest milliners milliner are ure making a determined use of chin chinchilla chinchilla chilla both as regards the fur and the mottled gray graj gra colorings it displays Chinchilla feathers irs are very ver effective The bars of pearl changing to deeper grays look most charming harming in quills and ostrich plumes of the new variety in which the palest shade Is next neat the tile spine of the plume and the gradations of darkening take ta e place one by b one until the outer edges of the fronds are reached This Is a complete boule of the shot scheme which affected the leather from end to end instead of across it The Hair Waving and crimping crim Ing which Is 15 an essential factor according to the pres prest prese t e int nt vogue of dressing the hair is obligatory unless the latter is naturally naturally ally curly but it is more than useless to attempt operations op rations with the crimp crimping crimping crimping ing irons if the thc hair is too damp and andoU oily oU When Then a tendency is 15 shown to this condition the front part of the hair should be washed at least twice a n week and a suitable stimulating lo 10 lotion lotion tion rubbed into the hair every even J Jam U |