Show EMBROIDERY AND LACE Manufacturers have to to look far ahead in these days and to the woman who Is not yet at all decided about ab abe t her early autumn gowns It may seem rather astonishing that the chief orders for next spring are already ordered by the leading wholesale houses Here and there an error of judgment as to the them mysterious m deviations that feminine V taste can enn take talce may be committed but butas as a rule the experienced departmental buyers can gauge to a nicety wha what will please their customers and it seems likely from present indications that lace and embroidery are to assume an im importance Importance Importance greater than ever in future fashionable I wear Real handmade lace as we all know stands st outside the caprices of the passing mode and much might be said as to what wha t the revival of this delicate handicraft has Ims done in Ireland where at 01 this time some of ot the finest t work of the kind is being turned out But the trade in the ma products isone is one of ot no little commercial even International import importance importance Importance ance and the competition of of Plauen and andSt andSt andSt St Gall presses very closely upon Not Nottingham Nottingham Nottingham Yet t in the lace trade there is isa Isa isa a degree of reciprocity that is not ot al always always always ways found since Great Britain largely for climatic reasons can produce a bet better bettel better ter tel thread for purposes than any other country and to Man lIan Manchester Manchester chester those who will compete in re regard regard regard gard to the finished manufacture must come for their material V Time was when Nottingham and Ca Calais Calais Calais lais were supreme as cen centers centers tens The products of the English ma machines machines machines chines had characteristics entirely their own while tho those e of the French reproduced reproduced reproduced the features of the Spanish and Chantilly types Plauen rose ro e into se serious serious Senious rious rivalry somewhere about isso when the development of machinery made that order or of lace which has be become become become come generally known as Edelweiss a possibility Now strictly speaking Edelweiss is not a lace at all but is isan Isan Isan an embroidery upon a foundation of net or tulle supplied for the purpose It was new It lent itself to many novel nov l effects and It attained 3 a popularity which in spite of fluctuations has been fairly constant Nottingham Not however had not much faith in the venture of rather more than a quarter of a century ago and permitted what has since proved a great branch of the Industry to pass away Then came another ad advance advance vance of which Plauen took Instant account In the history of modern dress whenever It Is written there will willbe willbe willbe be a place for a chapter on the part that chemistry has borne In it Fashion In the Edelweiss varieties was waning aning for the time and means m ans of utilizing the machinery were urgently desired when hen the discovery Was made that the very ery light foundation of t pure wool could J be e employed which immersion In ina a chem chemI I ical bath would entirely destroy leav leaving l av ing the lace wrought of cotton threads Intact Thus the whole range of gui guipures guipures guipures came Into possibility and with them thema a new ne field of effects and motifs of V Van an elaboration un undreamed undreamed Undreamed dreamed of ot could be produced and dress through this chemical discovery received one of the most notable addi additions additions additions to its decorative scope ever made to tolL It V VAt At St Gall GaU the embroidery principle has been carried yet further It Is from there with its great school of applied art that so many of the dainty muslins with their o D jour effects and anti the enor enormously enormously enormously popular of this season season have come and some of the designs now being b ing prepared show charming Ideas Very Ver delicate with l flounces and fine guipure motifs and insertions ins are notably good and embroidered ered trim trimmings trimmings trimmings In V exquisite colorings will be bea available a for the trimming of next sea seasons seasons seasons sons washing frocks T here are also hints to be gl of ot luxurious IU urious lingerie and underwear In such directions as ag agthe the white satin embroidered in empire garlands and sprigs In demand by the fashionable or of the worked lawn flounces for under underskirts underskirts skirts Even in babies pelisses and lit little little littie tle tie hats there would seem V to be dis distinct distinct phrases of fashion and quaintly pretty are some of the former ormer in cream cashmere with several graduated straight rows ro V s of openwork open work rings as V V VV V V S bordering |