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Show STUTTGART. At the Iloyal Residence and Capital of Wurteuiuurg. A BUCKING AXD A WET WALK. llMo8C8 in Egypl" well Played. The Uno Public FouutHluw are JTut To. Special Correspondence of tho Herald Stuitoart, October 15, 1877. With lingoring, longing, backward turned glances we bade adieu toLaki-Geneva toLaki-Geneva and the pleasant friends ai Pension Chevallier and set our faces lor Stuttgart, study stupidity, and semi starvation with other alliterative allitera-tive imaginings; heightened or rather deepened by our regrets at leaving the dolce far nientc atmosphere tf Lausanne. So homelike had been our life in Switzerland that we seemed to bo newly started for "foreign parts" and really gave ourselves credit for great courage in again braving the world of strangers. Aa if to fix the ' outlines of lake and mountains more firmly in our memories, our road lay high on the terraced slope of Mount Sorat, and the view of the wooded points and shaded corners ot the lake recalled pleasant reminiicencas of various excursions in row boats at early morn and by moonlight, aod the delicious strains of music floating over the water from the terraces ol Beaurinags. 1. and D. are accomplished accom-plished oarswomen and Em. and I boast of our accomplishments at the rudder, but the two first-named have the advantage of us when they talk ot in uncle, unless it may be strength of lungs, where we have tbe advantage, advan-tage, for we did the Biuging. We re called the evening when the girls were so indignant because the "stupid boatman" refused to let any boats go out on account of what we thought only a pleanant breeze, but which soon rose into a driving storm compelling com-pelling ua to seek shelter and sending us borne in a carriage; aud again, the morning after tbe storm when El. sitting lazily upon the stone quay, her feet dangling over the water, suddenly found herself gasping for breath, drenched from head to foot by a tardy wave which Bomohow had been left by the tempest, and her drip ping, penitential walk back to Lair sanne enlivened by laughter and dry tvit. So with pleasant conversation and sundry bunches ol grapes for refreshment refresh-ment we sped northward over viaducts and through tunnels, beyond whicb we crossed an undulating fertile dis trict which reminded us of the mid-die mid-die states at home. I wonder il Baedccker bag ever been to the United States? We are unable to consider ourselves as to ni a hod at all the thing which he murks with an asteriik as a bd of applause. We have been through loDg tunnels before, be-fore, and as for viaducts, have we not rounded Cape Horn? Even tbe ens pension bridgcB do not take away our breath, after Niagara. Bucdecker should go to America by all means, and then write an European guide book, with reduced adjectives tor American travelers. We stopped over one train at Freiburg and were richly repaid by a ramble around tbe uld city, than which we have seen nothing more interesting since wo. viaited Nuremberg, and above all were wo impressed by the hour we Bpent witb the organ, the greatest, most perfect instrument of it-H kind in tbe world, I do not know who played it, I only know that it talked and sobbed ani entreated and moaned and whispered and stormed, until we were wrought up to the highest pitch and disnolied in tears. Aa we left the presence and emerged from the gloomy cathedral i into the light of day, my daughter, to break the spell, remarked as she wiped hor eyed, "Mother looks aB if she had been at a funeral." And yet it was not sadness, but an ecstasy beyond be-yond words, the very remembrance of which brings the tears to my eyes as I write, why, I cannot tell, lhe prayer from "Mosei in Egypt" I almost hope I may never hear again, for any other utterance of it would Beem aacrilegi-l ous. Baedecker describes tbe cathedral, cathe-dral, tells of its tablets and carvings, of pictures of saints and stained glass i windows. I spont an hour there but saw nothing; I brought away nothing save a consciousness that it was a temple, tbe earthly abiding place of that divine organ. In keeping with our exalted feelings all earth aud air seemed to harmonize, for surely a more beautiful day was never seen, and as wo took a sun-bath in crossing the long suspension bridge Mother Nature geutiy restored our disturbed equilibrium. Beneath us rolled the crystal Hiirim. On either side ot the defile the banks of rich emerald groen wore laid out into pleasure grounds with winding graveled walks, down which we went to see the old town with its remains of fortifications. It was a queer, unsavory old place with al-ohitecture which to our modern eyes seemed purposeless and we tried to conjecture what human needs could have inspired such cumbrous piles. One curious street leading from the lower town to the council hall high up on the hill is like a flight (tf stairs, carriage wuy and all, and must be worse than our 'corduroy swamp roads to ride over, lean iruaciao its having boon used fur ponance in old feudal days when tho now rusty gates in the wall were opeoed at sunrise and closed at sunset aud mailed warriors kept watoh in the towers. Kuddy choeked, square-built square-built Dutch or rattier Swiss babies, wi'.h cunning little tight-liLting quilted caps on thoir heads swarmed in exposed suuuy places, while their mothers washed the family linen at the public fountains which uvory-where, hutli in (Jermauy aud Switzerland, are devoted to all sorts of culinary purposes, pur-poses, sucb aa washing clothes dree ing and preserving salad,, cleaning ! been glasses, etc. Washing Beemed ( to be the only active enterprise carried i on in this dreamy place, and tbe rail- ' rod the only thing stirring. We were jut too late- to attend the I annual agaicultural fir of Switzer- i land, which cloned the week before. The empty booths were still hung with wroithi and festoons ot laded flowers ornamented tbe grotesque centuries-old statuary of tbe fountains sigus of festivity depanted. In front ol the council hull stands a venerable lime tree aged 400 years, it the legond - is to be believed which uarranted that here tbe victory of Morat wat announced announ-ced by a young soldier of Freiburg, a messenger trum the battle field, who rushed into the town, waving over his head a twig and with the word "victory" "vic-tory" upon his lips expired from lows of blood. Upon the spot where tUe hero toll the twig which he bore in his hand was planted and has ever since fired the Swiie heart always inflammablewith inflam-mablewith patriotism. Now in its old age, its wide spreading branches rest tenderly on a frame aupported by Bione pillars, while Boats in its hl lowed shade aflord shelter and invite repose. Here we were inclined to linger, but railroads like corporation: "have no souls" and the time iw approaching when wo must bo on our way to Borne where we expected a brilliant surjiet to be awaiting us, with all tho glories ol tho Alpine afterglow, after-glow, of which we bad henrd so much. Iu this we were doomed to be disappointed, disap-pointed, for before we reached Brno the last ray ot sunlight had disappeared disap-peared and our first impressions oil the city were by gaBlight. 13. G. H. |