| Show WOOLS AND CANVAS I i Two Materials in New Guise Dominate the Spring Season REIGN OP HUSTLED MEJRTS All the Fresh Frocks are Fluffy and Elaborately Trimmed With Velvet Vel-vet Ribbon and Lace Summer Hats Are Very Romantic in Shape and Scheme of Decoration New York March 10001 and linen are the materials that will be predominant predom-inant in spring wardrobes Less silk will be worn than ever before save as trimming All this is due to a sudden inspiration on the Dart of manufacturers manufac-turers to prove what altogether lovely goods challie barege and worsted grenadines can be when woven very soft fine and wide and decorated with infinite taste No silks so far seen show anything in figuring to compare with these woolen materials though foulards are evidently bound to have another season of patronage EXQUISITE WOOLS The challies for 07 as one may properly prop-erly call them are distinguished for their satin stripings either six or eight broad bright bands running lengthwise of every yard or prettier still groups of the tiny shining lines while a few i very new bolts of goods show satiny dots dice and dashes In colorings the challies vary from the richest commingling com-mingling of tHe handsomest oriental tones up to clear high lights in adorable ador-able lilac rose faint greens and tender blues that are destined tp form the most enchanting afternoon and evening gowns The sheen of the omnipresent satin stripe lends them an unusual brilliancy bril-liancy and value which when combined com-bined with the new ribbons and laces brings out results that can hardly be appreciated from mere descriptions Fantastic vines minute dresden pat g t 414 II FIGURED CHALLIE terns bourbon bouquets interwoven Persian and what are called pallet designs de-signs appear in countless bright tints on these light wool surfaces with their dark backgrounds The pallet designs are nothing more than a conglomerate I weaving in of five or six harmonious i I bright tones following no especial pattern I pat-tern as appears so often on a painters pallet Again the colors will simulate I checks or really lovely broad plaids Nearly all worsted grenadines are shown so far in deep cool greens browns and blues varied with grouping group-Ing of black satin stripes whereas the linen canvas is for sale no longer in the pure unbleached brown alone This Is to be bought in hemp gray dark red heliotrope cornflower blue and a half dozen more colors and intended like the worsted grenadine to have Its broadly open mesh laid over crisp changeabletaffeta linings RUFFLED SKIRTS It is worth the shoppers while taking tak-ing note that every one of the abovementioned above-mentioned new goods possess the triple virtues of light weight modest price and ample width to the yard which the poplins foulards and etamines of last season could hardly boast It is easy enough however to find an adequate I supply of attractive materials just at i 1 f t I < the moment when truly an economical I pocket between the temptations of j summer wools new French percales and fresh Parisian organdies Is I emptied In a trice The makeup is the I puzzle though any woman can take I to her heart the maxim that when in doubt put another ruffle on your skirt You can make your ruffles long or short intersperse them with tucks inserting in-serting or have no flounces at all using an abundance of overhanging puffs A symposium In ruffles is shown In the pretty frock of figured challis Its sleeve bodice and skirt frills are all done out of liberty ribbon the figures of which nearly imitate these in the j goods itself while the hat is one of the 1 new cavalier shapes in black chip 1 i Golden brown feathers face the brim a scarf of lustreless cream silk binds the crown and from double sprays of jet springs out a tuft of brown paradise para-dise tails The hats of this romantic shape featherfaced or bowered In plumes I are falling into the void left by our winter picture hats while for rough I wear we are going almost universally to appear in rough sailors They are not hard heavy varnished American straws but of cool Swiss chip and coarse Bavarian willow plait in becoming shades of green bright blue clear ripe straw yellow and even a dazzling pink Satin ribbon and i closeknit hawks wings they are usually us-ually trimmed with or a band of gay red and white geraniums which promises prom-ises to be the springs favorite flower USING VELVET RIBBON The figure in the brown barege gown 11111 f I1 AL t S Mi 4z e BROWN BAREGE wears a chip hat decked with geraniums gera-niums and green leaves to correspond I with the pretty suit of brown made over green silk and ornamented with ecru renaissance lace This is applied in tabs all about the hips fitting down on top the deft arrangement of box plaits that gives a most satisfactory effect of a flounced skirt below Three imitation cairngorn buckles gather the waists front fullness and a narrow black velvet band puts a last touch to the neat bodice Little by little the trimmings of black velvet ribbon are coming into use after having long been popular on the other side where even at this late date accordeon plaited skirts continue to be worn To show one of the ways this velvet ribbon is applied the cut of an evening gown gives a fair illustration This is a pale lilac figured satin striped challis Its full petticoat banded with three clus I ters of ribbon in groups of five Broad lilac satin ribbons cross over the shoulders shoul-ders while two loops of black velvet hang out to simulate tails and are I caught by bright jet circles Such a dainty dancing suit is meant for the post Easter frolics while already I al-ready the women are having their linen canvas suits put under way These are made almost without exception flounced and decorated with brown batiste ba-tiste embroidery The lavishness with which embroideries of all sorts are going go-ing to be used is emphasized in the pretty central figure in the group while white cotton needle work Is being sold verily by the thousands of yards for N1i EJ 1fl h4ii I 1 Afi I 1 53I i w v L r r I 7 I I I K p 1i p I D PT 1H TWO ELEGANT HOUSE GOWNS gingham gowns and even for embellishing embellish-ing the percale shirt waist THE PERISHABLE SHIRT WAIST It would indeed seem at length that we are destined to lose the neat cool simple cotton bodice of beloved memory and use so overwhelmingly is public taste in favor of fragile lawn dimity and madras garments made with three perky little frills running down the bosom ruffled wrists and ruff collars The smartset Indeed of the new waists are made with yokes back and front of embroidery deep embroidered cuffs fitting fit-ting close from wrist to Qlbow and alas the tail outside the skirt belt One can now scarcely Und a shirt with I A ii j H I starched stiff cuffs while many are oj offered for sale with amplo white embroidery em-broidery sailor collars falling over the l shoulders Lace in an abundance is being applied ap-plied to suits still In process of making c The shopkeepers are especially proud of their handsome wash laces for cotton dresses woven to much resemble the pretty real mechlin and needle point while on the favorite silk of the season sea-son the crisp rich inexpensive jacquard j jac-quard taffetas a deal of lace draping I Is observed The lacehung taffetas are designed especially for spring calling 1 and carriage toilets and bring out some I new fancies in sleeve trimmings as I displayed in the sketch The fact Is women are keenly anxious to shed even I their spring coats in order to take notes on each others arm trimmings 4 4j 4 j j1 < S TrT A TAFFETA CALLING SUIT < and anything novel that comes from a clever modistes work room is echoed about with wonderful celerity All the best mousquetaire sleeves have a cording cord-ing up the outside seam or lacking this a puffing and many a smoothly fitting satin one owes all Its decoration to a cluster of little lace frills on the shoulder and a silk muslin band and big bow at the wrist > Big soft wrist bows have taken the place of the plaited frill that used to Tall over the knuckles and some women whose proportions of arm are such as to challenge the admiration of the beholder be-holder have their sleeves fitted from wrist to shoulder as tight as can be endured So close indeed is the silk or satin drawn that anything like free and easy movements are utterly prevented pre-vented and just a whiff of chiffon at top and bottom relieves the exceeding exceed-ing rigidity of line There Is recently noticed an undeniable tendency among the women to fasten a neck bow under one ear and make the bow tight and bright by the use of strass buckles though the ruff collar still predominates predomin-ates and the girl with a handsome throat cuts things quite flat at the base of it In the morning rolling white linen collars and stock ties yet have everything their own way and in the afternoon outside the dress collar a string of beads is considered In very good taste indeed In the heaps of spring frivolities of course there are ruffs and really pretty ones of the wide new plaid ribbons woven partly of taffeta partly of silk muslin quilled to form a short neck boa and finished with bunches of purple silk violets to fat n iinilAr thp chin Others ar made n of very sheer dotted lawn ribbon rib-bon that comes from the loom with a lace edge and still a third transparent ribbon has its satin edges fringed with violets and then plaited into a boa Any woman who attempts to make one t of these neck decorations herself should remember that at the back the quilting quilt-ing must be taller and fuller than under un-der the chin where It should really diminish almost to naught and be completed com-pleted with a couple of scarlet muslin roses or a knot of yellow and purple pansies NINA FITCH |
