Show COLORS IN COSTUMES t Flowers Used to BrIghten Dullhued Dresses + CORRECT THING IN SKIRTS J k MUST FI rii SE AS FAR AS THE KNEES + Lofty Coiffur S Adopted ExclWively By F ashionab1e WoJ1en orNew YorkToll Pom1adourOyer Brov B g Ve1vt o nd Skewered With Gold Pi t S Spe1d1 Corresp ridence New York Dee HIt was a novelty at the beginnIng of the winter for those who Vore sober green and brown street owns to dash in the necessary high lights bj the use of brilliant breast knots of natural ilowers VIolets used to be the chosen walking flower but now l woman muflled to her cars In Persian lamb or sable pins on her left breast a flat bouquet as bIg nearly as a dInner plate Of DUrlle orchids or scarlet carnations backed with a widesDread fan of maidenhair fern A great deal of attention Is gIven to the method of Dinning these In place A rosette of ribbon echoing the tints In the flowers is usually 50 placed as to wholly cOVer the stems In the evening 5Dangles still reign supreme and golden sequins on a black or white transparency 15 the high st achievement of the dress rnalters are But not by the use of spangles alone is one entitled to a front seat among the welldresscd for the SlJangles are only one clement in the lavish ornamentation of the cods sold for evening wear Spangles and pearls sDangles and cut crystal beads and ribbon trImming all three applied ap-plied to wide meshed silk net or spangles wrought In with white velvet ribbon lDd gilt braid are among the I favorite combinations An exquisite i evenIng dressdestined to be ultimately worn by Mrs Astor was of white satin over which fell a skirt of black silk muslin At intervals the muslin A Smart Chasseur Shape I Ii i was cut out In SDaces as large as the Dalm of ones hand and patterns of I black Iaue heavily worked with gold spangles rind grej pearls were let in Anothr costume for an eQually fashionable woman was of willow green satin garnIshed with raised flowers made all of ostrich plumage stripped from the stem and fastened down with embroiderr stitches The pattern followed was that of Virginia Clematis and as the wearer of this glorified raiment moved about the petals if one may so call them of the flowers waved and vibrated at every steD It would reQuIre the aid of a colorists color-ists brush to convey a genuine notion r the splendors Y some i these I modern evening gowns and ret they are nol all by any means as costly as they sound Spangles are more radiant than expensive unless one undertakes to wear the new acettes that are lately over from France These are of all sizes and are colored differently on either face Most beautiful are those called amaranthine a strange green ihmld on one side and deeply purple pur-ple on the other They are not attached at-tached to the fabric bj means ot holes through the center but must be so seton set-on that at every motion they swing about showing first one side and then another A black velvet costume resplendent with a vine motif worked out in amarlDthine angles Is one of the sights that would have filled KIng SolomOn with humble astonishment A VICE REGAL SLEEVE In a discourse on evening dress it would be Incomplete not to mention the new arm decorations that go by the title of the vice regal sleeve Lady Curzon herself originated this fashion which comes to us from India where i tile less sleeve you wcar the greater i our Dh siC Acomfort J Inrjoidc the nrm from the shoulder 1 strap down passes to the wrist a band r of jeweled lace or painted muslin or 1 embroidered satin It Is only two inches and a ha1 wide and It is held to the arms by means of a lacing of pearl strings or gOld cords or ribbons that eotch in eyelets along either edge of the outside of the arm This forms a lattice work through which the I round smooth member show urettily and at the back of the hand the strIngs I of earls or cords or ribbons knot in t a long bunch and fall over the fingers i The evening boa is not only not oh I solete but is more in evidence this season sea-son than ever before Smart women wear them to the knees made of the I rl 1j 1 j 1 AL H > > softest liberty silk poppies petals falling fall-ing one thickness over the other The center of the boa is usually c long roll as big as ones finger stuffed with wool and thoroughly impregnated with souvenir du jardhi a deicate and popular pop-ular new perfume There are not many thIngs more fashionable this month than fur toques or tiny pompadour bonnets with one exalted dazzling white feather flaunt ing in front MInk and chinchilla and smoked Russian fox are the bonnets most sought after whIle their close rivals art toques of antIque velvet in automobile pervenche and dahlia with three brown eagle quills cocked up in front By day women continue to arrange ar-range their hair according to the die tates of indIvidual taste and comfort I while by night the rule seems to be steadily in favor of lofty coiffure Gauze butterflies with spangled wings and bulllon bodies measure sJImetimes eight inches from tip to tip of pinions and such queens of clothes land as Mrs Stuyvesant Fish Mrs Goelet etc carry all their hair up In a small tall knot forward of the crown This pushes a light pompadour over the brow To the small tall knot is fastened fast-ened a huge bow of black velvet ribbon rib-bon that is i not wrinkled and through the hair the knot Is passed and crossed by two long pronged pins shaped like i flat skewers and showing most land i ful jeweled beads This is a head decoration easy to copy for the hatplns of French gilt with heads of large irregular prorls and paste diamonds show off to great I athantqge and small outlay by night I Jottings made here and there 111 the realms where goodly and various raiment rai-ment occupies large time and thought record the extensive use still made of black taffeta Women continue to wear whole gowns of it at home and I in the mornings and Instead clf bands of black velvet they show the crisp dusky surface of skirt and body powdered pow-dered oer with large and small loose hanging black silk dots Let It be mom tioned in a stage whisper that any woman wo-man who Is ambitious to folIo the latest fashion can buy a box of these bets or balls very cheap and herself In one morning tack a score of hundreds on to her black taffeta costume REINCARNATION OF SHAWLS There is every indication that before the next new shirt patem comes out there will be no more honored article of wearing apparel quoted than the hitherto humble and inconspicuous shawl For a good dozen of lustrums the shawl has hidden its diminished size and fringe in the wardrobes of elderly ladles Without the least warnIng warn-ing the shawl has become exceedingly modish Exquisite creped liberty silk squares with fringed edges and colored borders in Persian pattern are an essential part just now of the evening toilet The crepe squares are sometimes deliciously embroidered or even painted and assume as-sume in good part the duty long ful filed by the boa At home In the afternoon after-noon womon wear exquisit imported Japanese shawls of mingled wool and silk in pIgeon throat purple or white and pine leafgTeen pinned like capes on either shoulder so that the front points can be thrown back or drawn forward at will while in the rear thq shawl hangs like a large loose hood A new fringed sills shawl very much worn woven in the shape of a Scotch mans plaid or a torreadols scarf is caught on one shoulder and allowed to swing clear or is drawn up close about the figure Less costly than these arc scarf shawls of wool gauze with bands of bullion or colored silk alternating with the wool THE COSY CARDIGAN Comment and experiment are equally busy with the cardigan jackets r and smart cnilted silk waistcoats that skaters wear or that women adoDt Indoors OVer thin shirtwaIsts The caligans are exactly as men wear I them save that a little silk Is mixed I with the wool of which they are quilted In the majorIty of cases the cardigans are lone in dull smokegTaj reseda green brown and midocean blue wool but bound about the edges wIth silk rIbbon of a clear and penetrating pene-trating color Women who cling to capes as wraps have found the cardI u x < 6 gans of very real value and comfort I and they utilize as well the wadded waistcoats These are cut as high or low as you please in front are I most often of a dull soft silk outside and h light layer of perfumed lambs wool lying between the outsIde and I the lining i stitched in diamond form ana the brightest sIlk Occasionally in place of mere machine ma-chIne stitching a delicate vIne is em I 7 k fu i t A MAT INEE BONNET broidered this way and that over the J waistcoat front while the back is of heavy doublefaced satin drawn In J at the waistline under a ribbon band and sliver or jewel set buckle THe gayest buttons fasten up these waistcoats waist-coats that skating and sleighriding lDdsnow gOlfing women affect ana with which they wear their watches exactly as men do Long and most interesting are the runes that relate to the newest fanles in taffeta silk skirts The dernlere cri as the Parisians say is a skirt of stormgray taffeta velours that fits like a tire to a wheel as far down as the knees and then flares or is thrown out to use dressmakers vernacular All around It touches the ground and then to accentuate this bellbottom aspect a flounce of crisp silk muslin Is cut out on the slope accordion pleated and edged with a j 0 r sr u A DECEMBER CAPOTE ruche of pInkedgray taffeta and muslin In consequence of these maneuvers a woman In such a skirt is apt to measure thlltyslx inches about the his and a hundred and thlltysix around her feet but this is Quite as it should be for all her carriage car-riage and evening house and calling toilets come under approximately the same dimensions ILLUSTRATIONS OF FASHIONS The two hats given this week tell their own tale They are both of antique an-tique velvet their folds disposed over cinnoline frames The velvet Is drawn i up h dkerchle shape in the toque ec if i p I I I c I 1 1 1 1I 1 I 4 j A i > I 0 cmtIBTMAS PARTY FROCKS and the corners knotted In front Through the knot Is run three eagle quills The larger hat of Chasseur shape Is a smoJegray velvet ornamented orna-mented witlia large paste buckle in front from which flow back two long periwinkle blue plumes The chIldren In the sketch represent what young people are wedringfor festive fes-tive functions this winter Their plna I fOles on sober everyday occasions areas are-as often as not made of blOwn Turk ish linen beautifully decorated In linen embroidery done in blue red and green the only stitch being thq simple crlss cross that the eastern needlewomen know so well how to use It is noticeable notice-able that corduroy for boys aa well as girls is I mOle than ever in use this wintef and that children have all but x = i < d iri 1 i usurped the use of brown beaver as the fur trimming for their cloaks caps I II and capes iI |