Show Embroideries s sOn One On of the U le fV Tew W w s in n J Women Jire engaged d thee the D De DeV V mand 68 eds th tb Supply 1 Embroidering shoulder knots cap eap de do devices devices vices sleeve and belt symbols for foJ the officers officer of every department and mIb tary organization in the land has to he wrought in gold and sliver silver on the Ule heavy h y broadcloth h And women do this work Even expert men needle workers never attempt it for it requires a deft deftness deftness deftness ness and delicacy of touch peculiarly feminine although it bears no slightest i likeness to the embroidery done on pIt pliant pliant ant fabrics We seek eek out good military mn r em embroiderers embroiderers embroiderers they dont have to hunt for forus forus forus us said a I prominent outfitter See I this number 5 6 on this shoulder knot The officer is In the Fifth artillery and ands andis Is s getting a new uniform Not many man I workers could execute told fold embroidery as smoothly as this It H requires years of and understanding to handle such material The experts make good Incomes and have hae things their own way vay They stay at home and take or orders orders orders ders We Ve are glad to give them all the time and material they wish to effect such results Now Ill show you what we call stock work The eagles and em emblems emblems emblems on some ordinary steamship companies uniforms The lines are ar scraggy and inferior compared with the experts work Yet a woman able to direct a work room of girls doing this grade of insignia in Iii Our factory gets ets 30 a week Military embroidery Is done wl with h the finest of gilt or SlIver silver tubing on heavy stuff much stiffened Sometimes we have women ama amateurs amateurs amateurs come here to get material to work Insignia for their husbands husband and broth brothers brothers brothers ers uniforms They have been taught embroidery have done quite beautiful work they soy say and are confident that after practicing with the right mate mateI material I rial lial they will succeed in doing a de tie device device vice satisfactorily We Ve give them the measurements proper materials and V some hints how to begin and they go off but invariably return saying they cant make the figures look fright Then we take the materials they bought and have the markings done in shape No amateur embroiderer however skilled she may be in tapestry silk or linen or even evenin in doing beaded work has ever to my notion made a device d vIce for a soldiers coat or cap that was fit to look at She Talks of Her Ber Business I have in my head now the insignia of every military naval and depart departmental departmental departmental mental device used in the United States said s id a skilled embroiderer I must keep up with such matters mattern in or order order der tier to be able to fit each device to the rank it belongs to without instruction The Te cavalry the artillery the in infantry infantry infantry fantry the engineers corps the staff aff of physicians surgeons commissaries all have different badges b and belong belongings belongings ings My lIy books would show all the various changes hanges in insignia that have occurred in governmental matters matter for forthe forthe forthe the last forty years I learned the w work ork from a regular French and started in as a girl just jU t when the civil war created crested a demand for such ser service service service vice To learn military embroidery is isa isa isa a likely profession for any young girl Two of my best assistants began with me as errand girls when barely barel 14 years old It is not work that affords re remuneration remuneration remuneration from front the start Persistent apprenticeship is required before b fore re rewards rewards rewards wards begin But once mistress of the craft one has good paying interesting Interest ng work for a lifetime Each time an officer is promoted there is a o change of emblems In peace peacetimes peacetimes peacetimes times the military companies want their uniforms and equipments kept up There here are dress parades Decoration day public and ceremonial demonstrations demonstrations demonstrations to keep the insignia ball rolling Then the military and naval academies now demand superior equipment for their ranking officers In IIi foreign coun countries countrIes countries tries the court and contingent cere f p m i NW r 11 v l 21 1 THE TUE EE RON HON ETHEL GERARD S fathers Kent and Lancashire places pieces her establishment and grooms are her own and she takes a vast amount of pride In her mounts and their keep keepIng keeping keeping Ing To sail like a grasshopper gra over fearful hazards ha of hedge and water spend all day in the saddle addle in spite of mist or rain and dance far into IIno the morning is no uncommon feat for this tireless young oung lady who already has a greater number of brushes to her credit than any other fox hunting woman In England and whose large wi wistful blue eyes full red mouth ad small white hands would never lead the casual observer to believe she could lift a horse over a five barred fence I and in a rough hunting field smilingly take risks that strong men would re refuse refue refuse fuse fue I Unlike most young women whose time is most happily spent in the sports and with horses the Hon Bon Ethel is the very glass of off fashion With Lady Lur Lurgan Lurgan Lurgan gan she shares the honor of setting the hunting mode and boasts a ward monies make much call coll for orders ind decorations Paris baa v ways led In such matters but the work is much better paid for tor in this country and the orders have been lavish of late years The work is like bead bend work and yet et It is not she adds displaying the shoulder badge of a Third cavalry of officer officer fleer with the figure fI re 5 built bunt in firm firmand firmand firmand and solid soUd on the yellow groundwork You must take up the tiny sections of tubing bit by bit on the needle and sew It fast to the foundation but an ac accurate accurate accurate curate eye for proportions and a steady hand Is needed to get the effect smooth S Once done it ansi and symmetrical wrong V cant be altered There axe are no flowing lines and fancy innovations as in em embroidery embroidery with silks or crewel Every Everything Everything thing is exact formal disciplined as in inthe inthe inthe the military service Small ILme Eme Factories S The women who do the high grade military embroidery are nearly all gen gentlewomen gentlewomen gentlewomen who shrink from public no notice notice notice tice They learned the work deliberately deliberately r at the hands of older experts and pursue It quietly quiet in home surroundings that bear evidence of refinement pros prosperity prosperity prosperity Seldom does one operate alone aloneo She trains helpt rs is to her own standard of expertness And her being able to take large laige orders and execute them on time is a convenience to the tailors tailo 1 These private work rooms show noth nothing nothing nothing ing of hurry or disorder The ma materials materials materials used are expensive and must be betaken betaken betaken taken care of No department depar ent can ean be slighted from the cutting out of f the foundation samplers to putting on the of gold cord that define the mai markings kings It Is the matter of cutting and designing as much as asgood asgood asgood good work that distinguishes the art artist artist mt embroiderer of military gear from the mere follower of the trade The neavy cloths and foundation samplers are laid piece on piece for many thick nesses and then cut out somewhat as V tailors goods are cut but with a knife p different in pattern from any knife used in other trades Accurate cut cutting cutting ting greatly facilitates tes the needlework ers efforts The cutter and of figures and emblems used in military routine Is called a In the old world countries the Is a recognized artist In the United States the wom worn woman woman an work wins the praise of oC all military officials who wear It And many a general and admiral much pleased with the well wen executed Insignia Insi ia of his uniform sends personal thanks to the embroiderers and when arranging lug ing for further outfits stipulates s that the Insignia be worked only In her par particular partIcular particular workshop under personal direction direction direction tion I cannot get helpers enough just 5 before Decoration day or any special V demonstration said one of two sis sisters sisters tern who have an embroidery plant in ina ina ina a big city uIt It is skilled work that I must have and skilled labor in our line Is hard to get I have many man r dis din disappointments disappointments appointments Young girls with taste t tand and ambition are so eager these days to go Into something that will yield re vs returns returns turns almost immediately that they th Y neglect any profession requiring much practice Our Om work is Js a profession not nota a trade if jf well done The demand Is certain the pay high the work of in intrinsic IntrinsIc intrinsic interest Yet girls will work for years in order ordet to dabble in water watercolors watercolors watercolors colors or oils to no purpose or to get inefficient knowledge of music They try millinery which only offers oters work half the year or domestic needlework that yields scarcely anything I often wish opportunity to draw their atten attention attention tion to this comparatively uncrowned field I have to stay tay in town all sum summer summer summer mer to execute orders Until just before the civil war every bit of insignia used in the tIte United V States was s imported Then the tle foreign w women omen recognized a new field and came camf cameto cameto to cultivate it Now the pupils they trained have work ork rooms roams in all an the big cities of the country OLIVE F GUNBY robe of near thirty habits She was one of the women who introduced and popularized the voluminous box hunt bunt hunting huntIng buntIng ing coat for bad weather Her thirty habits are made for wear with th thirty different hunt clubs after alter J J hounds she Is entitled to ride and every even habit has a collar of a special secIal of 01 the hunt with which it must be worn White on the collar is s for blue lue is for the Quorn etc and these habits habit are as carefully changed chang d for the huning in the various coun counties counties ties as Emperor Empero Williams William s uniforms are changed at the demands of mili mill military tary occasions and the etiquette that prescribes r the costuming |