Show k Daughters of Eve SEW l1RISI i JIILLIXER Decided Clumprc of Shape Material mill Lining Paris Feb lI have just come in from a forenoon at the milliners where 1 accompanied the agent of a New York house who was buying for some of the most exclusive trade in New York and also attern hats andbon nets for Easter openings As he gave a number of orders It will be very easy to show what New York will see and wear for spring and summer sum-mer The early millinery put up in Paris houses is bewildering this season for ther js much to be seen that is new Not everything by any means is fresh but the season is producing an unusual number of changes in headwear that make milliners exhibits exceedingly attractive at-tractive As we vent along theagent explained explain-ed some peculiarities of the American trade I tradeWe import many French haH that i are never duplicated because American AI women have made wonderful strides in j their millinery in the last few years Instod of waiting for Lent to do their shopping and waiting for openings I many women now make their first purchases pur-chases in January from the very first I eonsignmpats our New York people receive re-ceive frcfm Paris A woman will buy three or four bonnets i bon-nets at that time She gets the novel I tics the original ideas of the Paris makers ma-kers before they have been worked over dozens of times and puts them away until the season calls them out She gets something no one else has because be-cause there has been no time to copy 1 I them 4 > Iore women took that plan this year than ever before I judge from the cables 1 set requesting more hate Just imagine the change that must have taken place in American womens millinery when it is A fact that where we used to Import half a dozen French hats for the season and copy them le peatcdly now we begin the season with ten or a dozen times that and continue to receive importations right along Here is ColoTtfbeTr and I am going to find garden hats GARDEN HATS WITH LATEST IDEAS IN BOWS And garden hats they were Of course thej are broad brimmed and have all < the attributes of size and form a garden gar-den hat is supposed to possess but even the petite piquant attendant had to assent to the suggestion that the real reason they are called garden hats this spring is i because of a close resemblance they bear to a flower garden j gar-den I denOut of nine or ten classified tinder that caption not one but would make their wearers look like peripatetic flower flow-er bed Not only was a profusion of one kind of flowers used but a bewild cling assortment was applied A homo milliner cant handle mdre than one I kind safely but these Parisienncs weave artistic combi two or three sorts Into I nations The buyer finally settled on a creamy i white elitine lace hat the brim of I at nothing which gradually tapered to the back and the outside wire of the I brim was over an inch from the edge of the lace The small crown was of I laue the edges being allowed to appear prominently On the brim with the tips meeting in front were laid two I sprays of purplo velvet Martha Wash inglon wall flowers The back of the hat showed the marked trimming change of the spring millinery It was the latest idea in bows It was made of threeinch heavy satin ribbon of a deep burnt irangr color There were six loops l cadI five inches long confined in the ter with only one knot and the Ire I-re arranged like the rays J r Ii t i IJ his bow was simply caught I 3 8 bKlT of thr > > imwithot t any trt1r I Iftr vith the other trimmings Wl1d Itfo the effect of sm immense HbU f However that bow on the j bade of hI C hats will he the caprice i > f the pring if Paris is followed nothcr garden hat was ordered here which illustrated another of the new ideas that may suit American girls It was of Tuscan braid of a creamy color The wide brim was turned up I in front and instead of having the trimming cover the front of the turl11 cdup brim the latter was loft uncovj erpd while pink flowers were caught at the top on the edge The back of this hat was turned down and here wa a bow of black velvt ribbon at past three inches wide It also had the star arrangement except that it i < onsiFted of various lengths and two notched end I l itself had brim at i Th < > hat a narrow T the tides j and the front was very deep I with a medium breadth in the back WALKING HATS j A walking hat that came from Co > i cW 1 y e t t I fcV sjrXj 1 1 t tfJ1 I 4 tiU i lic7L I U hijq = I HIl 1 H l fih 9 r ftowu ll > r 1311 4 i t fS rfJff jJ L 1 f11 v v I < J M j r h y A < = l 1 S 111111 i I 1bJ I l tfrI f1 > t lr u1 Jr oJ AUDE ltfs J I lombes was Tatlier conservative but i may strike the tastes of women who I bite the Gaineiborough effect on the brim I The straw was black milan braid I I and the trimmings front view were I I i entirely of blac1 < French Spanish lacej This lace is a combination of Chantilly I Chantil-ly method and design with Spanish lace designs It was arranged to forma form-a standing frill in front where a narrow j I nar-row cut steel buckle extended across the front of the CrOwn The brim was I I quite broad and rolled up on both t ids A black plume and a couple of j I Jeep roses trimmed the back where 1 I the brim was cut off A new idea in materials is ruflled lace and a yard of the French Spanish lace seven inches inch-es wide ruffled was fastened at the back of the hat to be thrown around the throat throatTAN TUSCANS Rebouxs hats are by far the most I i comfortable for general wear and the buyer mentioned eral wellknown New York women < r whom he was hunting Reboux hat They have a chic appearance and at the same time are good wearing Mats J thoroughly envied the Avemen who will wear a cduple oChats tye prjdered there One was suclia beauty and I do wish I could Jinow which endto jthe Woman who gets itTill clect to weal ic i Many t e I I hats are made so that cither end is i equally suitable wearfor the front II and when one doesnt happen to suit the other is quite handy I The hat I was so pleased with was of 1 tan Tuscan braid Everybody will see tan Tuscans in many forms and styles for the rough straw is a great go and will probably be liberally patronized patron-ized 1 It was a small hat half toque S half I I j i turban nondescript in shape At one j I end it was bent to a little peak and two rosettes of moire velvet with oxy dized cabuchons set with rhinestones were on each side The other end had l more rosettes and little twists of the velvet holding two black quills carelessly care-lessly thrust in Theres a fascination about a hat that is like a double end I teamer with a pilot house on both ends S i Another hat in the same material and color had a fourinch brim in front just indented a bit on the edge to breakS break-S the curve while it gradually tapered to an inch in the back where it was bent upward slightly to fit over the Psyche I knot of hair The attendant put it on I and really it was just the sort of a hat I a man particularly likes to see on I a S woman There were no vagaries about it It was medium low crown and the trimming was all low A narrow jabot of white moire ribbon was laid around the brim starting from the middle of the front and extending almost to the back Above the white jabot was one of black moire ribbon which was puffed in the back between the crown and edge of brim A stiff black aigrette on j1 S j 1 Lu XEWEST TAM BOJYIfETS each side of the front had graduated ends which were caught in the center of the front with a jet buckle Buckles of all kinds particularly the narrow ones of rhinestone and cut stee1 seem to be very numerous on everything ev-erything from little bonnets to large hats TWO ILLUSTRATIVE BONNETS I must speak of the bonnetSFbecause they will be a source of much perturbation pertur-bation of spirit and hair dressing I fear Camille Rogers was our destination for bonnets Two that are coming to New York will serve to illustrate the new features very thoroughly They are really the beginning ot the poke bonnets worn long before our times They come as near having earflaps as is possible and escape it They arc of straw and if a bonnet was flattened out it would be a triangle trian-gle with one long side and two short ones that meet in a point over the fojehead They arc generally flat on the top but as a concession to our late craze for everything high in front many of them have an aigrette in front or couple of straw loops 55 Sponge braid of different weaves is the new material A sponge straw bonnet bon-net of this form I have described was olive green in color with two loops of bmid strip d with an oldrose band of straw fastened in the middle of the front there the narrow bonnet was bent in just a trifle The loops stuck up on an angle and right on the edge of the bonnet over each temple of the wearer was arranged a cluster of many colored roses ranging from natural colors col-ors through corn color and up to eminence i I S S nence pink Recall the old bonnets that had I skirts or capes on the back This new I one had one row of green straw ar i ranged like the first row of one of the old skits and the strings were twisted twist-ed around this and came down to a I point behind the ears These strings were of doublefaced i ribbon olive green moire on one side and white satin on the other S The other bonnet built on the same 1 lines was of a ribbonlike crinkled tissue tis-sue paper in bronze brown and alternated I alter-nated with green straw In front was an aigrette in most exquisite metallic effects combining bronze brown and green I There will be a chorus of ohs and i ahs and oh dear mes when i I these bonnets are shown I do not I i think this kind will be generally worn fin I the United States until late in the 1 summer or well into next fall They are a great change however and have already bee taken up by Paris women j They are not very conspicuous and no doubt have a reign ahead of them but when it will be general is hard to i predict S j TAM OSHANTER STYLES i The Tam OShanter crown seems to S have been purchased quite freely for American women Some of them are mad of velvet or lace still others have double Tam crowns of straw and I even triple Tarn crowns are used as In a black tuscan which had a wreath of magenta roses crushed between the recond and third crowns with a twist I of white moire on one side of the front instead of a stiff aigrette From Virots there was a unique Combination called a Spanish hat from the colors employed in it It had a Tam crown of black velvet A rhinestone rhine-stone buckle caught the Prince of Wales tip and black aigrette which were on one side of the front The portion of this hat that fitted on the front of the head was a fivepointed I pIece of corn color satin embroidered heavily in yellow straw a couple of bits of a pink rose were crushed beside I be-side a coupleof corn color satin moire antique rosettes in front 1 The agent explained that socalled Easter millinery is always a me lange a trial heat as it were in which I many shapes and colors are tried on the Jongsuffering patrons of millinery and that it is never safe to predict I what the American woman wjll take to her heart und formally adopt for general favor There certainly is a I sufficient number of novelties to sat isfy the most exacting JULIE GILLIES |