Show J I. I 50 t 0 l k 1 1 i 0 mr- mr I. I rJ i 4 J r 1 Rt r I 7 1 Smart Ways A 1 n t of Adjusting Color Tones r kI to Wearers X i I its 1 1 Dark q With X ith b r 11 I I Ct 0 11 A I I r S Locks i I I Vj d I 1 j s Black and White t Frock Skirt Frock Skirt t I of Black 1 w a t tl Lined with White Blouse of White While i l fl y t Chiffon wisht with wish 1 r. r y t r Black Satin 41 4 D Design Flower f.- f. I ith n n c Co 1 2 t Tea Gown r 4 of i h u 0 1 1 1 Cerise j r 0 I i 1 f N w y Y 1 n b bOrange 1 i Orange and l Pu le Chiffon ChilIon X roc o ti 11 iMi JUf b. I k V JI i 0 t I. I r 0 a c 4 q J 4 t 44 oI 1 1 If J C i t j r 4 0 t o. o c 0 I. I 1 1 m I r J. J tk t. t r h r t. t r o 4 ti r r i A 1 By y Mme Frances I The Famous Creator r of Fashions HE raven-haired raven girl expresses a THE I type of feminine loveliness that has brought joy boy to the artists of all the ages from the first crude drawings s of the Egyptians who contrasted straight black locks lacks with the vividly barbaric stripes beloved be be- loved lo by the subjects of Rameses and Cleopatra Cleopatra Cleopatra Cleo Cleo- I patra on through the pages of history to the Moderns 1 who find in black hair a perfect perfect per per- foil for the highly keyed colors of Leon Bakst and the Futurists The raven locks of gave Bakst the inspiration for his wonderful stage settings settings settings set set- tings featuring the brilliant color pictures of which that darks dark sprite rite of Dark Russia was the centre entre represents the Slavic type of the black haired black haired beauty The Russian woman combines the Slav with a touch of the Magyar I at its best and gives us a vivid type Russian women are celebrated for their beauty frequently having black hair with blue eyes eyes' as the J Irish colleen who is the joy of poets as aswell aswell well wen as of artists The haired black-haired beauty is most distingue distingue dis dis- tingue when arrayed for the street i in n 1 black which may be relieved with furs preferably lynx seal or silver fox Sable Kolinsky and ermine are also good on th the j haired black-haired woman White fox should r be worn with discretion in the street although al al- al though white makes 3 a wonderful trimming J for an evening coat cf et t white or cerise velI velvet velvet vel vel- I vet both of which are ideal colors for the 5 haired black-haired woman For evening black is also ideal The most striking haired black-haired type possesses fair skin although the warmly sympathetic tones of the olive complexion i if endowed with rich color is very lovely f I f The magnolia complexion of cream creamy whiteness which is characteristic of the Creole beauty of New Orleans also contributes contributes con con- tributes a beautiful haired black type The term Creole is is often misunderstood mis The Tho 6 proud Cr Creole le blood is a mixture of Spanish and French and is in no way vay to be confused confused confused con con- fused with the octoroon mixture of the Ethiopian and Caucasian ra races es Vivid colors are worn with great dash by the raven-haired raven girl especially for street wear though they must not be carried carried carried car car- ried to excess Scarlet is is especially well adapted for wear with lack hair although again I must caution discretion An over amount of scarlet when worn by a black- black haired woman is apt to make her appear ordinary and commonplace Crepe meteor chiffon and velvet are the best fabrics for exploiting this color with black hair The debutante brunette may occasionally wear scarlet tulle but unless very simply developed developed developed de de- de- de it is apt to make her undesirably conspicuous Black and white is extremely striking on the haired black-haired woman and she need never hesitate to employ this contrast either in afternoon or evening wear Cloth of silver is a better choice for her than cloth of gold because the sharp contrast of the white of silver is is better with black hair than the tawny glint of gold Crystal is ideal on the haired black-haired woman A gown developed in crystal or beads is wonderfully lovely with black blackhair hair Such a gown is illustrated in the evening evening even even- ing model Primarily there is a foundation foundation tion of flesh-colored flesh chiffon that shows i in n the bodice on one side which is is heavily embroidered in metallic flowers of gold silver and bronze Over this flesh-colored flesh foundation i is draped a wonderfully graceful graceful grace grace- ful fabric ic white chiffon heavily beaded with silver and crystals This is suspended suspend suspend- ed from the right shoulder and wraps around the body at the left side reaching across the back where it is again lifted to the right shoulder and falls in a long graceful train faced with cloth of silver The girdle consists of two lines of color the upper mauve and the lower lowerr salmon The de resistance piece of this wonderful wonderful won won- gown is furnished by the vivid note of color contributed by th the fan of cerise ceris ostrich whose soft plumage unfolds unfold in Ii J w 1 II 2 J Y 77 j II r II Ih a I II s a f f. f t t t. t k i 1 ir r r A t tr ts v. v 1 i iV V f f. f t JC r J A t f I OJ I o 1 r Ho r 1 I. I Blouse of Scarlet Chiffon V Velvet cIvet Over Black Satin Skirt vivid contrast with the pale and metallic tones ones of the gown This is an ideal evenIng evening evening even even- ing costume for the raven-haired raven beauty W Won Wonderful on erful also is the coloring of the robe which is is called Intoxication tion Boudoir apparel competes with the most formal forma evening gown in colorful love love- liness mess This robe is particularly rich in color combining cerise with flame and orange The skirt is cerise chiffon One side of the surplice drapery is orange and hangs in long folds from the left shoulder to the floor where it merges with the cerise train The other side of flame- flame colored chiffon falls like a scarf in double lines over the arms anus The girdle is made mada h M o t I I t 1 J j 1 0 Gown of White Chiffon Beaded with Silver tt m and Crystal Draped Over Black Chiffon of cerise chiffon through which is apparently apparently apparently drawn the drapery of various colors which hang in long flowing sashes The grapes that entwine the girdle blend the colors of flame cerise magenta orange Oralge and purple with dull gold leaves This tea gown conveys the impression of diaphanous ous lightness All the drapery is picot- picot edged and it floats and sways with the lightest gesture or motion of the wearer a Nothing could be more than these warm tones combined with the mellow mellow mellow mel mel- low loveliness of a beautiful haired black-haired woman An Air afternoon gown designed for blackhair black blackhair blackhair hair is shown in the tunic model The blouse is scarlet chiffon velvet of black and is is worn over a draped skirt satin The blouse is slashed back and front in buttonholes that are bound with gold Through these slip a sash of black satin which crosses and ties at the front The bell with t bound sl sleeves eves are also supplied buttonholes and a scarf of black char char- meuse This fabric faces the sleeves A Around Around round collar of cream white Venetian lace completes this picturesque gown which is worn with a smart of black satin pierced with a pearl pin Another gown which is is striking with black hair is the black and white model developed in chiffon and The kimono blouse of white chiffon is ap- ap with leaves and flowers of black This trimming is extremely decorative The round neck extends in a a e J f ft fron ron down the centre narrow U U Uline line of black ch chat bands sti which is is of outlined with also bound WIt wu 1 h The sleeves are meuse black The high girdle snugly outline the figure The skirt is draped in unu side that sWin gs lines in in the overlapping ankles to display a facing free around the that further of white ThiS white of black and the contrast ha hat t velvet r with black is worn a gown which plays no favorites in the color off at an scheme A black feather shoots angle on the right side and a white feather gds fins another another angle on the left Very v rJ h rih vm c chic is detail of this costume IS every 5 1 With black halt hnit na J Jand is s wonderfully effective and fair skin 1 |