Show PEACOCK GOWN GOVAN LEADS W WAY A TO SUMPTUOUS A i Every Woman Realizes y Thata That tat Her Secret Desire for or Good Clothes Has Burst Durst Forth a r in n t te e Sunshine That Has Ilas Conic Conte Upon the World Cyril World Cyril Maude Says that l Gorr Confessed essed That Her He One Desire Has Been to Become a Butterfly at the Conclusion o of the War ar There Thoro Is no doubt th that t the signing of ot tho opened th tho lid to n box lux of at butterflies In tho form of or gayly al dressed ed women thc they have halo fluttered flut flut- gored out Into the sunshine 5 of ot peace and the tho vivid colorings splash about In social life In a way that enhances the exhilaration of or the thc hour No Xo woman Is proof against os the tho Seduction se seduction se- se of or alluring clothes Mind you ou there aro are thousands of or women who think the they aro arc and who argue and andre andreason andreason re reason and protest against this s 's duc- duc tion But nut It Is there Have p you OU over O known knon a woman who said that she hc cared nothing for good looking clothes and yet ct spent two t hours hour horns on her and found faunl several hours a week In which to overlook o s o gowns gowns' It Is foolish to den deny the pleasure pleasure- sure sure- able ablo Impeachment that women care for clothes Nothing In this world I is 8 II i unwise as to create Illusions about ones one solf and ones one's race Tl ero are nrc women women who do not carry carrr out their secret desires there are hundreds who whenever they Hie try tn to carry carr them therm out make malte n a dismal failure there are others r 1 who In the press pres and whirl of activities time limo timeto to permit their ties tics tics have hn no minds to dwell upon what they like In n nr r cost and no to chan change lI their wishes Into frocks But tho the feeling remains re remains re- re mains In every cry womans woman's heart that she would like to be w well veil ll dressed and nud when she he represses with false argument u ment her delight In and her desire for clothes It is like f seating the little colored colored colored col col- ored boy bo tho on-tho on the steam valve e of ot the holler boiler o of a Mississippi steamboat Cyril CrU Maude tho English actor expatiated ex et- upon This subject at nt lunch the th theother other day and told two to Illustrate Illustrate illustrate Illus illus- It He said that t Mrs t said to him Mr lIr Maude you ou realize that I am a a. hard working Woman dont don't you You loo have havo a firm belief that no woman has been more strenuously uc- uc 1 live In the worl worlds world's s 's activities s 1 have And yet et here Is my secret ilo- ilo sire I 1 want to be a n. butter butterfly When this war sr Is over over I want to bo be dressed 1110 a n. butterfly and nd flitter to and froIn fro tro froIn In pleasure Mr Ir went on to sa say that Mrs Irs added tho the last part of oC itin tho the most whimsical manner showing that she was a I. I true woman to the core tore fore Tho The second story was that no ono could realize in the work o of munitions In England wh why it was that over o a thousand girls applied for work to one factory In a a. da day while none could be begotten begotten gotten otton to go so to another factor factory Upon Investigation of or the matter the women who all spoke out at once said that It was because the successful factory factor had tho the most moet becoming caps In their uniforms Mr Ir Maude aude added that It was vms necessary to change chance the C caps pl viand and co costumes In the other place before thoy they could set get the women t to apply l 1 there for wor work I B By Dy the way waY and and this has had nothing I whatever to do with clothes but merely merely mere mere- ly hr gossip gossip Mr rr Maude Maude- also said that th tho those 1 factories were most i successful f where they had dancing j teachers at nt the tho noon hour In j were given Ihen to tho the pupils w lu j I danced dr steadily until they were rail 1 back ck to the th th- machines and the the Idea don i proved ed nn an enormous success So Eo runs human nature 1 Why try tn to tn make out that It Is different Il Its It's a I very cry glorious thing after tHer nil all nil this this human tinman hu tin- man nature and It do doesn't hurt us to acknowledges acknowledge the tho defects and cracks in ir It It Who was It who said that humanity humanIty humanity human human- I ity was tar far fn fascinating and Sand lovable lov lov- lovable able than hm It was s human New Clothe d Irom Prom Orient I Well Mrs Is not tho the onh woman who tho wanted to bo be a L butterfly I In n so ardent a wa way that she sho burst from rom the cho as soon an nR tho the armistice went wont Into effect and turned herself out Into the In radiant colors col col- ors At this season of or tho the year ear there therele Is le an nn good chance chanco to show ones one's self of off In bright hues for the southern season beckons and even cn those thoc who havo o not tho money tho the time or tho the Inclination to drive In the Georgia WOO 3 to dance at night In tho the Geor Georgia ln clubs club to swim elm In Palm Beach Deach waters or to frivol In tho the Cocoanut grove s can still follow tho the trend of or j J t. t I IJ I J I yh 4 I 4 k L 11 d Tb Till u en c gulf lf snit nit lt U L. J of link jink tweed d. d and tb the e h hat 1 is I of or whit white c lIk I I I I it 11 I L x t e. e i 1 c C i r r r t a f Fit 1 tl I r. r I lI l- l rill f rill N r. r II I I I t 1 1 11 si LI L- L I 1 j j j I I r p- p i Afternoon tr frock k of ladle f c r trimmed n v cron I lace lu nor ti nII i 1 of rind kite hUe chiffon I s t None the fhe fund of tiC tin one sleeve MCC MI I. I In of tit teen chiffon and ami the I of or h It r In tint In r of tiC i white velvet vt pith r nt RI one Unc i bide Th S l-S I i 1 o nl horn norn by Mr Mrs W on 2 Y Illon nt at athe he the reception In 1111 i 0 i peacock II K JO gUnn n 11 a Mill It was nN Ilind i i n 11 n Due n for for- the wife Ife of or the President of nt J 1 1 the lip grilled H to 10 gear r- r nt nl her first public rip l In Purl furls It It Is of or midnight tune blue brocade The hc l n J. J lit h. u p peacock eje In lIn silver r. r J I j I 1 I I r r J I 1 ri I Y t 1 rf t J 7 M 11 i o I C t i i. i 1 I Ir Iii i r I i x 13 i hit I 1 I fashion that Is 15 launched for these re resorts re- re sorts I There fh re Is li nothing startlingly I new In Inthe Inthe inthe the silhouette that need frighten one away from the tho clothes one ono possesses but all nIl tho the signs sl of or the tho moment Induce orie ono one to believe belle that tho tiro orient will again rule In th the contour of or the fig fig- I sure ure Nothing el cl else o could explain ln this definite change in the tho drapery draper of or tho the skirt It has tilted upward in back for a year cor It now how tilts up in front American and French designers Joined hands In making gowns that were reminiscent remIniscent reminiscent rem rem- of or the 1880 1860 periods and even en our street frocks wrinkle against our heels and show our insteps livening Evening gowns owns show the ankle and a segment ses-ment of the tho Ie leg In front There Is a definite change e In theline the line lino of the tho drapery as ns it goes around the figure I re It no longer hoes goes oes upward toward the spine but drops down at t tho spine spino and goes upward to the front of or the tho waistline There Thera Is no longer a bustle In hack back or a bow bov but there Isan is isan isan an immense medallion of or cl clashing beads or a n huge huso ornament made of or crystals and silken cords to catch the drapery In front Ono One sees ses old oil and the bazaars rs of Delhi Deihl when these new lIew gowns flash across the tho eye CC and ones one's memory flickers flickers flickers flick flick- ers back to tho the history of ot Babylonia Tho street frocks h have he e none none of or tho the undulating undulating un un- I movements mo of oC the tho Babylonian an and Egyptian eras eras It ft is true but hut thc they J y t r p I 1 J r I 1 J 1 r 1 1 I I S One One- piece One I ce frock roCk of nr gray jerS jer- jer embroidered In dark 1111 1 1 Uh u sn h o Of J r crepe dc de deI chine k 1 I I i 1 or I- I g I i- i iS S S- 1 I I J do not nol depart rt front the newly newly established dr drops p lisped silhouette Their drapery I d downward In tho the back and It Is usually a i drapery of folds which is tho primitivo prim prim- o wa way n of managing fabric on the human figure Only In tho the most severe c tailored t suits do th the tho smart women permit n a short hort sl skirt null and tho the a cleavage o between tho the French fashions nn and tho American ones In this respect has hall never been bridged It J Is whispered 1 by those with high knowledge o of or affairs In Paris that thit th the smart mart over thero there havo o len length th- th cried their skirts considerably for Jor th tho o approaching American trado trade In Feb Feb Feb- The They realize that the tho American America did not accept th the very iery short skirt i In n Its well dressed set for they wore confronted confronted confronted con con- fronted with the fact that the clothes clothe s the they sent here last st autumn were no not f bought until the they had been lengthened d Splendid ph i 1 Gown Go South It dill did not need tho Impetus of tit tho o I revival rc of or southern to brin bring t about tho the recrudescence of or splendid d evening I enn frocks They sprang Into beIns being be be- lug Ins as soon BOon soon as peace opened the lb 11 1111 1 of tho the box Tho They Thoy were tho first rca real 1 butterflies that fluttered Into the sun sun- shine Satin was as Taffeta dl did I III d not hold a a. chance I ag against brocades broc that tha I Leonardo da tin Vinci would have havo loved Jo It Is said that these brocades have o been bee n kept on tho the shelves for Cor years ears and that tha t it Is now Impossible to get ret enough o ot them for the quick demand of or women n for tor sumptuous clothes A few of or them theta I i. i The Exodus to the South Where TT a Gay Se t P Permits its the Designers to Launch a Br Broc oc oci ti i Have Ilave Rested on Shelves ves for or 1 Years ears Be cause T i No 10 tl Demand for or Such Splendor and This is F i 1 Ousted Satin in and Tulle I stalks stalls grow grow- In such profusion The gown own Itself Is li cut straight ht and slim stint with in an exceedingly narrow narro hem homo anI and the embroidery Is done dono ao so softly and gently senti ono might So say that it does not present a startling contrast to tho the surface surface sur sur- face on which I It t Gr grows s 's There is a n white velvet et gown own for tor afternoons under the warm southern sun un which I Is made mado moro morn brilliant h by n a black taco lico hat a black parasol and black sa satin Un slippers worn vorn with white I silk open work stockings dice nox Effect It Is obvious that the Americans will tr try to exploit the thc box like silhouette launched h by Paris last season for man many of or the new v gowns arranged ell for the south as alleged niles or 01 rea really to start st women omen Into a new trend of fashion a athe at atthe t the turn of the season are aro cut on ott thos square shapeless lines lints that Callot Callon and Doucot Doucet strove to mak make o popular six months ago o. o I 1 1 7 7 Y i r rI I 1 1 I y n i I 1 t r tIt i r 1 It r t I I r 1 I I J are arc metallic and glisten like old armor armo r that has become rusted and discolored d There Thero Is ono one frock in red green an angold and d gold brocade that shines like some o othe oCth of oC df f th the pieces of or mediaeval al armor armOl found it In museums There Thera aro are other otho brocades broades In white that are arc embossed d with Ith crystals and anal Jewels and anel there thero ar aro 0 ml midnight blue dull silver and deep re red d brocades that look as ai though they be be- long Ions to a fifteenth century canvas f In n the tl-o Louvre Lou Probably the they were wore made mad before the tho war ar broke out an and wore tore the then n submerged cd b by tho the demand for far r o materials None Nono but an expert In th tho 0 manufacture of ot cloth could tell fro from m whence they came cumo but It was as an Interesting Inter esting spectacle connected conn with Uh tho tIn 0 coming of or this peace peace this leaping Into tit tho o l light ight of at brocades that we have ne never naves r een cen I Thero There Is h a n. p brocade which whit h i has been superbly handled In a n gown gow n I that gives give ono one an nn In Instant tant thou thought ht of at a R proud peacock peR sunning H itself olt On an ancient an ancient an- an garden wall By Ey this times time tho 0 Is well 0 known in Europe Europa I If It no non not t In n America for It t was wan made to BOO goo tho tin brilliant light that falls upon n a hl high hig h place It Id hi not only worn b by one who Is i In n Europe but b by other othor exceedingly ills shed w women in this countr country wh who o duplicated It It Tho The foundation color o of or f tho brocade Is Iff midnight ht blue and tho tin design n stamped on It in sliver silver In is a n Pea cock e eye Tho skirt la 13 wrapped about aboul the ire fig and null the cuirass bodice vory or ory i low Jow front and back Is tarnished silver r not wonderfully embroidered red by 11 hand l d I In massive n a design of ot tarnished silver an and large larg rhinestones The train ii Is h ro s rs r rounded at the to top attached to the th o bodice just Juat un under er the tho shoulder or blades and slopes outward and onward tI till 1 It t spread spread- on the tho floor loor like lIko a n. peacock peacock tv v tall It is il s of or the tho brocade untouched 1 h bv by cry crystals lint but lIf lined with cloth clot of ot silver which h I keeps It In place Truly a sumptuous affair It IB is nothing unusual to send t Color Color- l less leRi ess gowns owns own to Southern resorts resort bu but t there hare h Is something very ery unusual in th tho manipulation of oC white for 01 the time present presen t season Ono One gown of white silk slUe Is embroidered em- em broidered with a brown design n especially su suggestive of at those thos e s southern swamps ramps tho the tall brown brow n r d df f I I i i I s 1 i i 1 1 1 Q r I 1 y l sulk crepe t trimmed rhum tl with II 10 n a D corn and n It 1 jiu Iris y r 1110 Ii done clone In woof Tho rho kirt In Js gathered l Into A n baud band In front ironi and nud left lett loo Loose e In tho file Lack back I The sport 1 suits sulla which n a. a nr vo h save the square 3 many pockets and sleeves and thero there loose are on ona oae cut after the manner manner Of gown which resemble not as a coffee sack S Saro Some of are aro bellIes M ns tho the house heus tended its g gown OWn to b be bu ee difficult a fashion for tor th the shouldered AmerIcan IQ Ift t wear it ft ono one has a slash tho the hem of it it gal gat Parts arts into y a 1 ruffle at the 11 a n. circus clown clo m s fled collar at the slightly and the painted lips of or to so women tho the illusion woul would completo complete |