Show It Copyright i HIlS by the iho McClure Newspaper j jO 0 i T O Taken FroIn Will V am the Conqueror 7 Surely Would Have D That MU 0 I FRANCE FLINGS MAGNIFICENT V WAR LIKE GARMENTS UPON A 1 HAPPY WORLD AND WOMEN WEAR SHORT TUNICS OF BURNT ORANGE AND SCARLET EMBOSSED WITH COLORED BEADS 1 AND COLORED WOOLEN FLOSS FLOSS BRIGHT BRIGHT BROWN LEATHER AND COLORED BUCKSKIN ARE EXPLOITED AS DESIRABLE 1 FABRICS FABRICS THEP THERE E ARE TUNICS THAT ARE COVERED WITH FRINGE AND EMBROIDERED LIKE THOSE WORN BY MARY l GARDEN IN NATOMA i i Some historians may know lenow when th the tha junto JunIa started It Its career as aa a fundamental funds funda mental fashion In the clothing of ot the race but no one has stated the tho exact data dato ato with an attempt at accuracy ac- ac curacy Thoro There are many who believe belle that It as the first garment worn by Adam Adamand Adamand Adamand and Eve when the they realized that clothing was to be a a. necessity to their The tunic really followed the mantle and from Elijah to 1 William I Ilof of ot England Is a n long lone Ion long spell In history but wo we know that the tho former wore ore a a. mantle and the tho latter a a. tunic Julius Caesar occupied a place In the theun theun raun un between cen these two out but ho wore a n no toga o a Beau Brummell brought In coats coata i n nd Geor e IV picturesque as ho was In his blazed the path for tor forthe forthe the ugliest clothes that the m men n on onIs thIR Is planet have havo ever e worn f 1 The Tho tunic was a n masculine fashion MS e 8 most garments aro are that women kink are Bre their own Tho The critics of or hIs this gen generation fall tall upon women and mite them hard for tor their fripperies and nd frivolities the whims and ca- ca prices rices of 01 their clothing and yet et thc these e I critics are men who do not seem to realize that all tho the centuries of pro progress grog ress tess ress of or the malo male part of or tho the human humm lace grace ace were ere given ghen over o to caprice and In apparel aa ml well as ns to defeat defeat de- de feat and victory Ictor In arms I Man an having put aside the continuous tous ous US gossip about his clothes tho the G eo- tra that went ent toward their purchase and the volumes of ot history that ho he has filled with his fashions from king to peasant mn may think that woman roman should also banish such Inter Inter- eats cuts There Thero Is Ia no basis for tor his reasoning reasoning reason reason- ing and It has no philosophy behind It It Man was as none the less a R. ma cent cent animal gifted bitted brawn and brain and achieving achieving- the great elve milestones of or civilization because Iho he never nevor ceased to think about his clothen and exhibited thorn them proudly In camp and halls John Paul Jones Is ie none the less the treat Creat figure tlc of or the American naY navy his waistcoats were wera counted b by the dozen and because he wore them In Francs France and on shipboard with the tho gayety and exciting eagerness that thata a no woman gives to a a. now frock William WilHam the Conqueror cared a good deal about clothes so did Dagobert that great reat French fighter of or the seventh sev- sev nth century who gave save his namo name to toa a cuirass that Is again In fashion As one of ot the tho best dress historians says Gladstone ma may be bo remembered b by his collar Whistler by his lock Burns by his blue suit Bult an and Henry VIII by his little little lit lit- tle tIe flat cap Tunic Tunie of ot the he Conqueror If it f you have the time to look up old illustrations of or famous historical days day you will find a thrilling excitement In fn th the similarity between the garments worn b bj by the people of ot those long ago days das who have hae come down to us aa li familiar n names mes since childhood and the clothes worn tOda today The French designers have s shown lown a 1 anice nice lea delicacy and an unerring sense of to the fitness of or things In going back to certain stupendous phases of ot British and nd French history for the new fash- fash lons ons It was natural under this im- im ulse uIse for tor them to reinstate the famous tunic of ot William 1 I I. I He He tho the conqueror was French first and British afterward afterward after atter- ward ard and therefore In taking 0 one of ot ofIs otIs Jils Is costumes as ne a a. model for the modern modern modern mod mod- ern woman the designers united In cress ross resa the flags and ana traditions of ot the Ule ri I still Is a n dominant part of or the cos- cos tum turnery r of or the well wol dressed woman The recent editions of ot It which have arrived e from Paris Pari are more mora faithful f copies of 01 tho the original l than tho the first ones They Introduce tho the elbow length r I router outer sleeves widely opened at nt the back of or the elbow In a slight curve cur I and tho long IonS tight that reaches to tiro wrist Tho The similarity between tho the eleventh elo century and this hour of ot tho the twentieth century Is even en moro accentuated b by bythe bythe the loose Joose capo cape wo wear which Is something somethIng something some- some someI I thing of ot a copy of ot tho the one ono worn orn by tho Conqueror His was buckled at nt the th shoulder and many of or ours aro are buttone but but- tone toned Tho fact that ho wore leather thongs crossed like puttees on his legs and that our war women and their followers wear high leather boots laced aced In front and sometimes strapped and buckled at t the top Is is still another touch h of or kinship The women durin during the the reign reign of ot William William Wil Wil- liam Ham the tho Conqueror also wore tunics but they had none of or tho the appearance ap ap- p of or those worn by tho men I yet ot the designers In this countr country andin and andIn andIn In Franco have ha copied them quite Quito faithfully It Is from that era that we wo get got the two sleeves sleeves ono one short and andopen andopen andopen open tho the other tight and long long and and also the tho V-shaped V neckline which Is cut In a semicircle around the tho neck and then drops In a n narrow Y shaped V-shaped slash over the chest Certainly you OU o havo observed ed both these features from tho the Conquerors Conqueror's time In all tho the garments of or tho the hour They run through them as M a n central thread A holding to together ether tho warp and woof woot of ot tho fashions Then tho the tunic became a doublet and then It grow grew so short that it left the tho waistline entirely and under Charles CharlesI I it became what the historians of that day a described as a n. new short jacket And yet ot when Charles II replaced Cromwell It was wa tho the fashion to wear a petticoat over o the trousers- trousers vcr very much In tho the fashion of ot the tho Scotch Highlanders Perhaps men felt rather ashamed of ot himself in breeches and sought to cover er them b by a substitute for tor tho the tunic Then there thore came the tho revolution In mens men's clothes in October 1666 It was tho the bod body coat Introduced to the tho ho notice o of Charles Stuart by John Evelyn a n tailor and which has since ruled the l masculine portion of or the world In more or less Jess ornate and gorgeous forms torms 1 f I r t 4 c ct t T 0 j f d f t 1 d M y X r r gl 4 d I II allies aa as they have havo been united on the battlefield K c It was this William by the way who J introduced into England from France Franco tho iho absurd fashion of ot shaving the hair ut t t the tho back of ot tho the head head head-a a fashion which t. t which has created a wave of sensationalism sensa sensa- sensationalism in Washington where it way waa of or the excessively Introduced 1 by ono one smart young matrons matrona from New York who admits that oho afro is willing to do du Anything to bo be different It is not notto notto notto to bo ho believed that tha this latter fashion which has como omo into tho thorn worlds world's history history his his- tory now and then thon since sinco the days das ortho of or tho conqueror will win b bo be taken taleen up b by women but hi his hla tunic has ha been and aUlI Oriental tunic of terra cotta and gold gohl brocade with narrow girdle at hips of terra cotta cott tied in the back Tho Tim long outstanding cuffs aro at the top tb p of fashion 1 I J J i i lJ i. i t i 3 F r J. J N j J J y f 1 I I L r 9 Ai- Ai I rii I 4 r 1 9 f- f l t I mi l 4 ta taI V. V I f l 1 c r Peplum blouse of white whito georgette crepe with panel front of ermine erne and narrow ermine belt the embroidery is done in gold thread On the right is a cuirass blouse of heavy black satin with a a. row of small silver tassels tassels tassels tas tas- sels down the tho front and at the wrists It is worn with a a. skirt and cape capo coat of gray cloth I l It was In France much later that I the tho women of or a gay hay con court rt thought it would be fascinating to adopt this splendid coat worn by the kings and from that hour dated the revolution re In women's clothes which resulted In tho Anglo Anglo Saxon Saxon tailored suit sull of or rough cloth War nr and ond the c he Tunic No doubt tho the clash of 01 arms In Franco France brouGht ht back to the tho minds of ot the designers designers de de- e. e signers Iners tho the long lon centuries of ot warfare that had preceded tho peace since 1870 Tho The tunic was tho the fundamental part of or the British warriors warrior's costume and tho the cuirass that glittering breastplate breastplate breast breast- plate of or steel and antI highly polished metal was was tho the symbol of ot all fighters So Fran Franc c Introduced the tu tunic lc of or that other and primitive warfare which she thought thouc-ht had gone gono forever and su suddenly sudden sudden- deny den den- ly y found one ono August morning that it had come to her with all tho cruelty of or the tho early centuries She did her best to enforce this Into tho the fashions of ot other countries but with small measure of ot success until late lato this aut autumn mn After steady persistence persistence per per- a l. trick she sho has In the making of ot all her forms of ot art tho least elst of which Is fashion she found that AmerIca Amer Amer- ica lea had suddenly awakened to tho the comfort comfort com com- fort and beauty of ot this garment It Is difficult to persuade American women to go without shirtwaists They borrowed borrowe tho the Idea of or a wash shirt from man as they havo o borrowed all their fashions and they feel teel and rightly so that there thero Is la an element of or cleanliness In putting next to tho skin throughout tho the day hours a garment s that can no go to the tho tub Tho Thu tunic does not go 0 to the tub and tho the Only tonly way to keep keen It entirely fresh Is to Wear I It t over a sleeved long muslin lining which man many women do A A. corset cover is of or little avail be because it Is 13 not high in the tho neck or long In the sleeves Tho The careful caro- caro ful woman finds rInds that a u. sufficient number number num num- ber of white while wash muslin linings such as are put into one piece frocks aro are necessary a adjuncts to on one lingerie The Tho best est shops hops by tho the way malee malce length hip-length f linings of or stron strong sturdy flesh colored silk with elbow le length elbow sleeves that hold hoM the shields and just lust the slightest e In front front These are not attached d to the tho piece one-piece gowns gown thc they aro are Included ed In lr tho price and making of the tho frock track but arate arato arc sen separate sep sep- garments which may go o to the cleaners cleaner's as aa often otten as one desires Ever Ev Ev- er cry woman who vho him has struggled with tho the problem of or keeping tho the lining of or a I. I cloth coth gown Cown fresh frosh when it Is part of or tho frock realizes the tho burden that Is Js lifted from tho shoulders In Jn this Innovation of oC detaching the lining Somo women order three or tour four or of f U Use these se half fitted Vre linings length hip B so that thc they may never nO bo be wanting In freshness Practical and ond Ornate Blouses Tho The tunic and the tho outside aro are one ono and tho the same thing thin You ma may call It a cuirass or a blouse with a l. l peplum or a Chinese or whatever namo name suits your fancy tancy The elemental fact Is that tho the fashionable blouse of or to today today to- to day hangs from shoulders to hips it may bo be girdled It may not Its alcoves may be cut according to the tho fashion of ot William I or the they may bo be after tho the manner of ot Da Dagobert obert of ot Franco long France lone lone- and wrinkled to tho the wrist Building on this foundation the de designers de- de signers In America and Paris Parts have e thrown caution and economy to the J I winds and accepted this new blouse In Ini i i such such an extravagant extra manner that the they 1 seem cern to be making up for tOr that time e A i 1 when the they lot let It rest neglected Jn In the thearl dark arl corners Tho cables from Paris Insist that coat suits aro arc much smarter than one one- piece frocks for tor tho the woman woman of ot fashion and her followers but hero In America oven even with the Impetus given to tailored suits in the earl early autumn tho the pendulum pendulum pendulum pendu pendu- lum appears to have havo swung back tp to one piece frocks and luxurious wraps of or fur tur and velveteen Probably with tho advent of or early spring with the southward bound tourist the tho coat cont suit will regain the prestige of or October If It It does docs these extravagant short mediaeval mediaeval me mo- tunics will have havo a high chance chanco for tor development I In the tho Interim they are aro worn not only with heavy tailored suits but as tops to separate skirts It is in this department of or dress that they arc aro most brilliant There arc aro I some dressmakers who feel teel that women will no longer longor order entire frocks If It the enthusiasm for these bril- bril 1 I M i II c c. c ti J c. c i U Ir J r t y 1 t r rr r Y Yat at t 4 r runic Tunic bl blouse ones of tan tan colored colored jersey embroidered with circles of French blue wool w oL It is worn worn with a blue blua skirt I II I r ft THERE ARE CUIRASS TUNICS MADE r OF GLISTENING KING COAT MAIL AND METALLIC CLOTHS AND THERE ARE OTHER OTHERS OTHERS' CREPE DE CHINE OR CHIFFON THAT HAVE F FRONTS MAi 1 LIKE BREASTPLATES PRACTICAL BREASTPLATES PRACTICAL TUNICS ARE E MADE WOOL JERSEY AND E EMBROIDERED WITH j ANGORA A OTHERS OF VIVID VELOURS-SOME VELOURS ARE GIRDLED AND so soRE A ARE RE NOT i. i 1 I llant accessories grow row In strength However there thero Is no reason for tor despair I In that for tor tho the tunic blouse as It Il Is displayed at this hour In Is no mean thing to make maleo and no poor thing to purchase Its fabric and the ornamentation ornamentation ornamentation tation put upon It bring the tho cost wen welt up beyond the tho era n average e purse But Dut the best part of oC It Is that the amateur can make these things at home homo for they havo hao nothing but straight lines an and t are arc built from loosely hanging widths of ot tho the material And Ancl yet et there Is danger In the work of ot tho the amateur especially I If she is guided by this hasty description for forIt forIt forit It Is tho the tunic of ot the tho Conqueror thre Is In fashion not tho the smock of ot the th French peasant or the blouse of ot tho the Russian or the gorgeous coat of oC tho the Arabian potentate Tho The widths q must outline the tho figure and they must cling to tho Iho hips and the tho armholes must be bo cut with precision and per per- The whole attempt of or fashion fash- fash ion to today ay Is to throw tho the tl figure uro Into 1 L I I r 1 1 i LI t i I I S 'S Sa Si i a aL to L S I jj 11 r yf y- y l lI J f I- I YZ 4 2 P PI I I Outside blouse of gray velvet embroidered |