Show Fakes T Fashion Fas From F I France nce 1 akes n o English History r I o 8 og AND STUART ARE RETURNED TOBy TO TOt S g COAT t SMART WOMEN AND HENRY II STRAIGHT LOOSE FA b ax N BY THE LOOSE CORD OORD GIRDLE WORN BY HIS QUEEN QUEEN QUEENi g WIT t OF 0 ESPE ESPE- i ORIENTAL ORIENTAL HIPS REMAIN IN FASHION BLACK THEATRE GOWNS AND BLUE FOR r y 1 v III H nenn nry II 11 to 4 from lent cry cU that i i Jumps 1 1 1 fie 4 but ud d boots and andis andt ICI 5 l is f seven leaf F Fashion lon Inde indeed d S t It t a trifle elite Periods period of ot the torl worlds world's lh the tKO tsO She Shet tl 1 thea without tr td c a and a from rom on one sE d i t from tr rills It a 0 frock tit Jr sad and ransacked for tor three thre has u to record cor to r strange LL decades that thal a a. f tn r cs 1 is realties reaUze probably ACA r t r. r sox fashion the ess lons ot of those these Iss tier hoot nil all the are ages to d the ou thin as fash- fash euch Such ue a If who build them hC irr er ornen till this u era ot of war as an to Oto t. t Ii on TV gas u t lt period Vo foresee that the t to worlds world's progress Win In tb the a k t i u designers at atas f tb the 11 pt i i as 8 It has hall done don Pt years r Startled per y as have ha been startled at nt ati Ight p Ii 11 z tremendous time limo like d at to In i a 4 battles fl hi his mighty make es a kh Si II should go co of on en play nc ec t we n-e clothes r JO la theme of ot the SI J o about bout through his hiss t o I tl s br t In mother other l lands than l f have e gotten designers ro g of tl the from g n the Napoleonic er era ll av Iny i Is that hat inspiration olon- olon J a source every ever d aJ tits II from it f of this one man roan and that Difficult to find some something thin t omitted Very Yen true td teen nn n Created Fa Won then from the 1 in nt ns I a lone Ion Ct cry successive through h lIu s tWI j clothes to the costumes a e f r which were r. r swirled In Sn at td e of or the emperors emperor's a sway and andt b by the fife treat great ta t sa e suggested at ate h hen In London given en olas ICI ball of or women omen and e a re men reen n in t Mr plaids at al which the th chief chief- and cone coni con- con fling flinK lib e fod Highland looked on as at a a. war war- If- If i CIo uli Indians American not root much that wasla was tA hr J. J there was all i In la fashion during that thai span whatever er And In Trance l t r y hue hate done these da days has haR It its It rna rna- tn copied cople 1 from al j the Napoleonic era and not 4 M lake lit ee original source hitter history writs writes Itself out In through h the dA days J. J pas PU T will in the very en fashions 1 the t b be credited to the great breH IS WO t now credit them to the of et Napoleon apoleon and h he credited els to I Greece Asia Spain nand and that Slav n it shall never M 1 know n 01 we art c certain phases of or t fashion fi tine Ie however er that were vere more MI t rd primitive th than n the tho Nal Nak Na Na- l k t er in era adopted These TheA are Teru- Teru uk u- u I 1 k Ac n Indian Japanese Japanese- and w lie e also alo e have gono gone back bae to I j periods I of or mediaeval d his his- 7 lilt such uch as Josephine I dui t r r Mm Mme Im n cared cared tc L nd ad wo OUi I ill not nol ha have hae e el trey li Q r were ere He arranged with lel lose leso IP 7 T 1 we tre use th thorn then m toda today J l of ot fashions says ays that la la I th those Jt da days like Rome nom apI ap- ap wim from the vanquished languished all alt It ItoM I K 4 the taking l But Dul it oM th t which was wai a present tl which I hl b was I last Jut W WI Wo We on U J. J have tono hM rolled up un u our ourn O ur nr I n ti H. H Hue lad flipped dipped lp t d our arms and hands it t 0 the It to stratas tu of or the put past and I bird to fashions that Wr wore were Ite lilting for to other outer warlike tal t f We e Tine TUT to Eft l. l I a ni U u once Olce a time In ins the be- be 14 fth Consulate when h n rub fashion ion h 2 M turned tol toward rd the ancient J t 2 J in lh the channel and borrowed sa hi ro 00 fc teen drat This was all done don In a u t tt M I C b by certain sections Jr but the e Paris Parl ners now novo Ut titre f h ll T. T a i. different Afferent ono ono and friendliness i j t of looking among amone pre present nt a tor lor n knowing full tull fully r r icH i nce that th they t are arel I ua y l t itt e hal ha gone on one back k to British ter I.-ter the may ma remember to t JM t an d A Palestine and Unit Unit- b 1 i to roil tta and ande Starr hall I lek L to tC L ia l tc G costumer Y Yi woes e Is ls i g Interested Injected ini In i a has hu thou thought ht little let lets lets' e U it I seems a It strange 14 f the ten t I rUIs 1 design la I hr on n n front bon om the world dehr de- de 1 of or the lne season u. u hould o lovite the th fashions dL C 3 Juxtaposition of ot 5 o h. h t has sae eve 7 arisen arise In ln St n trench rench J. J r so o CC could ld t to o 5 likened d to this this' ll 14 lle Ise neat mat find th the I 1 su r reason recrudescence In the f 1 act t that I e pU v was as sand cand- tandI eth tee een n the th tu ho 0 Charles t whore hol I I 1 l to Paris Faris kJ L Is s a preface to toor l h I t and O wo We mayten may I ten dyes out n na ns was WA P. P tor tor or whom the N tL n gl a L sight sigh and andIs t Ct lIlan 1 1 Of Is s new Wyly I afore tHore those t which the tho ford or V rd had ben arty an nn ann I tot o Henr n was ling king f In te n look ing O oter Cr er Crof It a book or of the s shown n I of ot th thin r. r and nd now near bf la In n this nn nl tho tI further r In dress I is t tie first L a Its l a. a It frock roc l. l ot of 5 exam plc ot of thin this sins aim QI creat created In Paris nerd idely t Cb Ito In this COUld I I or of o 1 Int nto history tt l th the a r t n work or by tho rho ot of Item HenrS Wo 1 I hai from rt t Is Lou lr Poul- Poul St of tt that It the reason n for the tho I Jt itt Un especial from sow t It t hi neck to heels tg t With Ith O ti IC bout about t dot the and Lud andt t 0 of In front ris Ss tn in long itch wafer a line out out- t of lorel C to I. tt k neckline that was as It rte th the k king it lu a aM ad tt t tas t 1 as 1 Stephen It Is la n nt T t Dirt of at our h vr er with hardly bardh a thought tho ht oJ of Its connection with tho the long Ions ago abo who I went from tho the city with the terrible terrible terrible ter ter- fate ata that or e every American choo child will Inow of ot as lons Jong as learning learnIng learning learn learn- ing lasts laste and that o cr every mother aiu am wife Ite here toll today vaguely aguel connects wI wt nU tho ho rea reason eon that her man Is s over there The The- hanging 81 sleeve c 0 which should I. I In right of ot hl history tor bo ho worn with till typo of ot gown has been left to tho In dl the a crag woman ac tho the straight ht line the cord cortI often otten tho the fastening In tho the back bu Inserts a long tight sleeve e Not that the sleeve alcove Is unknown t t. t present fame It Is s so o often worn fh Mia ha the designers designer o ha created un under er sleeves slee of ot velvet ot or 01 fur in tho rho oJ of fashion to fill 1111 In tho the hiatus between Ithem It Ithem ithem hem and tho the wrist but as s a 1 rule It I 1 put on another kind of or frock Tho The strong difference between now nou and then then- thenIs Is that the brown cl nn and Its man many followers t arc much nar- nar narrower rower than tho frock worn In Inthe inthe inthe the twelfth century When h n Cromwell Com ll n Reigned Those were wore severe eO ta fashions when Crom Cromwell ll Interrupted the tho pleasure pleasure- I j jt 4 r d I I iI iA i A I I II II I i I 9 1 I I 1 Y I 1 p 4 i I J. J I Above is a a. gown of gum col ored velours showing tho the square contour contour contour con con- tour for which fashion fashjon is headed The back of the skirt is pleated the front plain Under the square bodice there is a sash of Indian red Indian red crepe At tho right is shown a street suit taken from Cromwell's rule in Britain Brit Brit- ain am It is of dark-blue dark cloth with two rows of tiny silver buttons down tho front a battlemented hem horn and wide linen collars and cuffs loving ln Stuarts Some one has said that lint when AN wh hen n Charles Charp II canto came to the throne ln with a n sigh of ot relief 1011 aside her hair skirt to show that sho wore a L trill sill ll ono one beneath On the the- outside who sho o o was waR 01 very vory Puritanical Purl Purl- however ho for tor fashions kayo o and will always reflect hl history tory and tho character of ot those who 10 0 And yet et ct the designers designer have o found fount a good field for sartorial adventure nd It i. i In En English costumer of ot that epoch I Just Juat recently there thero has appeared sorts with battlemented t hems hem a 1 strong sign of ot those thos- times timet and a L double low of ot buttons on each cuch side sido o ofa ot of a 1 lone long straight front opening The Th wido Ido linen collar and antI cuffs cutt arc tiro added arMed and I ono one tees sees that it Is a n now non fashion Not ot ot ro so ne new but equally Cromwell eH tan last Is the sleeveless 1 s blouse or short tunic that our chops sell ns as casually as the they once did the American I hll f waist These a also alio I O were wro tt hl at t the hem hm which ours are arc not but bur th they al also o showed tho the full tull sleeves of hit 1 l l r lt l Tn rn tho 11 n n the the- 1 I a i 4 Y r rf f f 1 r r n. n A tea 1 v I Ii i I V jL 1 t i k ti I II L Ii w J r Ml K 1 Street hat t o of seal seal brown ravn silk plush h d dr with pleated crown and rolling pointed point point- A fr ed brim With it is worn the new r neckpiece a of f fur m with one end run 1 through a wide buttonhole at the side Below at the right is a brown velveteen vet vel f I k frock taken front from the time of E Adele of Louvain sh showing o the English Eng Eng- lush lish fashion when she was wag queen of j t Henry y II It is s trimmed e with its many Jf t 1 ar r rows of narrow twisted fringe and v has a loose cord girdle I r a aIt Ir Irr It tY t t ti- ti k li t r Sf ro f ii i t tM I IJ J I M w t I t t I s t w a r r r r rr r S J t Y 1 1 r A to I tr t tv v s sf f f eff j wa l LM t th h Kc l r- r non man cho chine o t the tho ruhr hurt hirt la in chow and rc barred stripes As we c v wear em this other tot COlt the tat bait I tI ono one with Jon Ion 11 ev fal- fal nr it at lj th n i rr J Lot Ill not nor b toI lr iv th effect Is 11 goo good It provides pro r. r variant from front limo tho accepted styles i Ics of ut Jackets Jacket Iti It Itis i n is which is a fashion the hc I French rench designers are arc striving hard to ta l'-ta lish The Tho slim shim lines of ot this coat Keep tho widths from awkwardness and thu small armholes al aid tho the clean cut look r The of or lire tho OrIent It ma may be a happy fact one that gives cause for rejoicing that designers design design- ers have havo no objection to bunching the countries tt when hen it comes como to tu fash- fash Ions To put tho the oriental hip drapery alongside tho ho coat coal ot or Cr Cromwell and r tho chemise of or Adele of ot Louvain Is legitimate business I Alls All's v wen well ell that thal once looked well might be bo their motto and antI they go 0 on making a 1 sartorial Tower Towel of ot Mabel for fOl forit if it a n. costume could speak this is what would happen in any representative o gathering Tho The orient Is always too seductive too easy of ot imitation to toese ese vo constant usage l' l there may mast have inay have been periods in social history when whoa it would not have 11 been boon possible to per per- Buado aundo well placed women to appear In Inthe inthe the clothes of ot the tho temple girls and those of tho the bazaars b but wo we dont don't happen happen happen hap hap- pen to belong to lo one ono of them We have stopped aL at some seine things in inthe tho the Ja last t six years but we have gone gono far tar cr very cry far Sc Sedateness has entered into cry ery during tho the last two years of ot this I warfare but now when victory is 18 on tho the lips of or all wo may see Fee a a. return to license in that may make prewar fashions 1 appear anaemic Lot Lotus Lotus us hope liopo that JO Joy wont won't be too tined fined If It there thero Is 18 a pleasing sedateness with freedom from and drabness drab drab- I ne ness then wo will see leo good costumes Already there lucre is a n gracious way of employIng em cm which cannot be ho I nU es Inthe in objected to by even tho the hip hit drapery whoso whose arc aro the tho sign and antl symbol of the eastern castern dancers There Thero Is a a. tendency to combine colored col colored col- col ored orell satin with black thread lace bee inthe In Inthe the oriental frocks which takes t away wa tho the in inthe the suggestion of ot cast except tho the swirl of or fabric that goes about tho the hips The lace pis is b caught in front with witha n Q great or of jewelled embroidery embroider and antI tho Ito entire frock suggests a new use for old lace laoo to those who have o of or It stored away I The lie A l M t of uC I ace By Dr this time Ume It Il Is quite apparent to oven the casual observer er that old lace hurts Ims conic come into Its Ita own again L aln and that there thero is a a. revulsion n of feeling a against clan severe s neck Ii lino no except b by women who ho know luo ticy look oot r rely well In r u ud b t s Merin It If I N JH not t a especially trying when cn the dorr e Is 18 square but ut when round or lr shaped Y it t d a n v with Uli remarkably regular c K ca- ca t- t I tures tun 8 to carry it tiff off This refers reters to I I r Jay day frocks froLks There is no to relieve relle e the neckline of or evening gowns when they arc are deeply as thebo the tho bo bodice is rarely of ot hen heavy or opaque material ma ma- Tho Introduction of ot an afternoon frock roc which now means menns' a frock worn for tor lunch as well as tea ten but not for tho limo ordinary purposes oC of shopping or orwar war Ivar work u with ith a t deep shaped U dee dec ec- ec e half hair filled In with a n tucker of or lace Ince and outlined with a flat ruffle of or orlace lace has not met with sufficient popularity popularity larity to lu insure a n reasonable measure of success and und ono one hears on o er every silo side the lime of or pleased acceptance with u a fashion that gives cs one a 1 chance to ha have vo the tho face raco softened Against J t Judgment there thero are arc a no host of ot objectors who insist that the tho severe evero neckline is smart an and that the tho theother other is 16 out of or tho ho picture but as 33 soon as enough well dressed women adopt tho Igo advancing atI method then sh she who la is out of the picture will tJ be In it It It t Is merely a question of or tho eye Ic We 0 ate oie the tho victims of or t familiarity with objects otherwise there herd would j ol J tot ot bo ho that complete completo change chang In the fashions which occurs season on In lit and out It was quite sin sUI surprising to sec ace ce how quickly Quick for tor Instance women put their shirtwaist collars inside tho rho neck of their Jackets when fashion ordered them loom in in and now non that fashion sa says a collars ollars out the tho flat bands band of ot lace Jaco arc are appearing as If It b by magic The Tho sailor collar ollar canto came out of or fur coats and antI disappeared dis dis- appeared from blou blouses oH almost overnIght overnight overnight over over- night and antI the thc long Jone- collar may give Ivo way to the tho Cromwell and antI Stuart kind before before before be be- be- be fore Christmas The Than stole of or fur is I again wain the tho style In Paris Parl the cables say and hero here tho the COil coachmans coachman's collar has hn taken the place of ot the fox Cox 00 on Jackets tail and many natty cloth clout blouses So it |