Salt Lake Herald-Republican | 1918-09-15 | Page 14 | 'Keep up the Morale by Wearing Bright Colors,' is Plea of Soldiers and Sailors

KEEP UP THE MORALE BY WEARING BRIGHT COLORS IS PLEA OF SOLDIERS AND SAILORS lEE i OVER A MILLION YOUNG MEN ASK THAT THE WOMEN OF THIS f r COUNTRY DO NOT DESCEND INTO THE DEPTHS OF OP DARKNESS I IN N THEIR CLOTHES AND THAT THEY ABANDON SOMBER I COLORS FOR THOSE THAT ARE LIVELY AND SPIRITED THIS SPIRITED THIS f REQUEST MAY BRING ABOUT A SEASON OF BRILLIANT COLORATION COLORATION COLOR- COLOR t IN WOMEN'S APPAREL AND THE SHOPS ARE APPARENTLY APPARENTLY APPARENTLY AP- AP READY TO MEET THE DEMAND E ft 11 Is tl the hour to talk taUt of or colors and nd f Wo ha have ha been given Civen a comprehensive comprehensive com com- outline of ot wh what t to expect Inthe In Inthe Inthe and wo we have made mado the new fashions up our minds t to r accept or reject as hS asue we ue choose c f. f The Details of ot autumn clothes have Ja teen bun digested b by u us The ion long skirt the continuance of ot sashes the growing importance cf of collars and cuffs an and and- the relinquishing of ot the attempt to rake nuke stiff high collars cottars fashionable have e filled us with that we know now enough h to make a n start L W Women Women arc are ld tt ll In opinion as to the wisdom wl of or Introducing a long skirt it t 0 this hour The They also question the that has been i adopted for or the daytime hour hours They protest rather violently against the tho effort ef effort et- et f fort rt to continue short sleeves In the tic thet t fa They found their objections on sound basic principles The They Insist that t war activities a are hampered b by long on skirts that th deep In the daytime does docs not look businesslike and anti that short hort sleeves elec are arc an absurd fashion at st a time when one must pay 3 for tor button two 11 glove clove o e. e and far ar more for forone forone or orne one ne that wrinkles to the tho elbow Vh are these things done Is fa th the question of oC the majority of ot women The fhe be soothing answer Is that they are lone ilone for or the same reason that one substitutes an entree for hea heavy meat unco In a while white in the the- menu Women's taste lute In dress as their taste in food becomes dulled and satiated b by a constant contant contant con con- tant stant repetition of ot severe severo and wholesome whole- whole some s-om diet A l bit of foolishness now and nd then such as an entree or a short elbow sleeve e a n souffle or a deep decol- decol In a luncheon Gown sown Rives gives Ives a n fillip to the Jaded appetite We Yc feel like dressing up and going going- on again with more buoyancy It Is merely a question question question ques ques- tion of stimulating the appetite in order arder that more moo activity ma may result To the onlooker it does docs seem absurd to bring about aboul such things as short sleeves when hen there Is a 8 scarcity of and a long lone skirt at a time o of 01 the th most Intense activity among amons- women women wom wom- en en n but the comfortable assurance is that no woman need choose these fashions fash fash- ions loas unless she ehe so 80 wishes Once LOnce upon a time there were arb arbiters I tera All AU women ran after a bell bell- wether thor ether Certain women advanced nd ce certain tats tain fashions created b by certain dc- dc eigners In Paris The American shops g ordered the clothes that had been successfully suc- suc c worn by these certain wom women women wo wo- m men n the they were cre given J out In mass maES to toilie ilie American woman and she bou bought ht them at nn any price between 15 16 and fhe e war Var caused a decentralization of or orLle style Lle Designers ners crea created shops of of- R ij I ferell women bou bought ht according to their purses but tho the certain selected womer who had held In their hands the power to cre create to a few fow fa fashions by ex by ex plotting them with C every Cry ry of bodily gesture and facial liveliness H disappeared Maybe fabe they went Into mu mu- factories maybe mayLe the they became Red ned Cross s nurses s nurses Isn't It Montaigne ne who suggests that all womankind Is di divided dl dl- vided Into three those lasses las those who be tt belong long Ions to the cloister the tho hearth or the street and that some score only find their true truc vocation through a cataclysm Argument nt I h Rife nul Anent Co Colors Color lorn Discussion does not lICIt stop n at n the details de details details de- de tails of ot the silhouette or at th the incomIng incoming ing and outgoing of ot certain selected fashions It shuttles to and fro Cro through the web of ot women about the selection of colors for the autumn and winter Philosophy psychology Y l history of ot wars and nd peoples it ay war enter Into these arguments All 1111 discussion of or this epoch IB 18 based on n hl higher and more complex reasons than ln personal like hiker and dislikes and the rejection or ac acceptance acceptance of or c certain fashions in women's women's women's wom wom- ens en's apparel sets gets Into this conversational conversational conversa conversa- environment as quickly as any other patriotic movement At the moment the tho discussion concerninG concerning concerning con con- colors Is whether or not the they should hould be e worn for Cor the th duration of or the war Something quite marvelous has happened to the dye dyc system of or this country countr so that t women do not have ha to base their choice of or colors on what they he hey can get Limitations and restrictions restrictions are to a lar large e extent removed remo We c seem to tu h have he e mastered the art ark of oC dyeing In three years with more skill than the pessimists believed belle was possible pos pos- sible It was on this rock that much of the the commercial shipwreck ck in women's women's women's wom wom- ens en's apparel was prophesied Well tho commercial mariners have havo had this rock blown up b by the chemical engineers engineers engi enl and one now sails salts smoothly on on the sea sen of oC colors color It Is the psychological quality In 11 hu hu- human human man nature that is back o of all this argument argument ar ar- about a accepting colors Masses of at women think that black and blue and brown should be worn until peace is declared with ourselves among amons- the victors Others Insist that this Is the very time to brighten the moral atmosphere atmosphere atmosphere atmos atmos- phere b by adorning ourselves with the plumage of at para para- paradise lse birds The soldiers a million at a time agree ree with the latter class The They ur urge e Individually and collectively elv the enlivening en eq I eq-I Il livening of or the landscape b by tho the most moh attractive gowns that women can wear They want nothing dull about them They refuse reuse to see gee nn any attractiveness whatever er In khaki uniforms on women Thc They beg beg- for fripperies furbelows and I S I II I i m I t Y i I 4 a t s r I I r rZ i j. j I I Z J rr i y r O r b br r 41 I i c I a O l r c I ti tir tit 1 J r t tI I I I i. i j ti 4 I a. a R- R c 1 1 coat suit of the heavy new now n material that imitates cs soft peltry I s e short skirt has two bands of the material and aid the slipover tunic at the hem and h has s a pocket on each hip Notice the immense ia a which is a fashionable feature of these slipover jackets i V I II 1 I f l g. g y 1 a e er L J r i r rF F e t. t t I IA iI i- i uit p r I I S L I s 1 r t r I 1 I r. r r rI I II I I II I I I ti i i I r t of L f I 4 f 1 1 It 1 r 41 f Q t R.-t a r o I loY Y Beaver trims the smart coat on the left of velour de lame bilte and the there c is a ba bag of beaver to match On the right is a sleeveless vest of sealskin worn with ith a blue serge frock fock There is a pleated skirt with embroidered panels at the sides which hang below the hem of the skirt frills They ask for sashes gay a colors colors col col- cOI 1 ors and jaunty hats lats Mind you OU this this question Is not one I that ends with the psychology a. a of or the tho I masses It dips deep down Into the Ute vitals of ot the commercial bod body It has hns I disturbed thousands of or manufacturers I and thc they are anxious anxiously awaiting the tho verdict of or the women as to whether r It shall be black and brown or red and yellow ellow l if thc they find Ind that brilliant colors colors col col- ors are arc a drag on the market their personal onal fortunes are Involved o which means that their taxes tase and 1 Liberty loans and Red fled Cro Cross H gifts must be sorely restricted i l If the world of or women decide against demure colors and a. a uk k for Cor the tho brilliant tones that have always alwa's been a n part of oC the warrIors warrIor's warriors warrior's warriors war war- equipment then black and anti blue and brown materials will be shelved It I Is a stiff stilt question and nd the worst of or It Is that there Is no exact way v to nn answer It with finality You arc tho people to 10 you decide decide you the till women of or this continent With Kith the Pre President of or the United tales States asking that mournIng mourning mourn mourn- ing lug shall only onh be observed ed by means of or a band and anti a gold star with the tho soldiers of or two continents a asking that enlivening colors colons be he dl displayed displaced h by their womenfolk what Is your our duty I Conservation holds back from rom brilliant brilliant bril bril- coloration through fear rear of or being misunderstood and regarded as f frh lv olous but the world worM has changed Its entire attitude toward the symbols of or suffering and sacrifice since the word sprang prang from the hearts of the French rench people to the lips of ot all the world There you have o In a nutshell the reason for this debatable ible question th that a is h 11 hanging S- S SIn In G over o us ush h while lie t the tho he a autumn au au- u- u fashions arc are coming cominS' In Tho shops will give I e us red blue Sf green ten yellow ellow plaids stripes Chinese o I brocades Ba ban bands s nn and I all the glory of Byzantium and tho rho Aztecs Wear car them If it you ou will Too row s ing The American woman strange to En ray cay I Is not violently addicted to bright hl color colors col col- or ors The rea reason II why this I s difficult ic to explain lies In iii the fact that the nation nation nation na na- na- na tion Is young oun and excessively hely buoyant As a child snatches at nt red so o does doca a anew new nation nallon grasp ai at it Jt Europe h has 8 alwa always 9 wondered at our persistent selection cf cr somber comber colors color A ca celebrated academician came camo from I Europe to America three times an and 11 I each ench time lime ho expressed himself as ns fear fear- fearfully fully tully depressed as w well as af amaze amazed at atthe atthe the continental use lIse of or black midnight 1 blue and dark era gray lie was peculiarly peculiarly lul arly Impressed by the elimination ot of brilliancy in women's apparel boc because use ho found such lI lively lIly ly and spirited personalities personalities per per- here He lie Insisted that our women are far tar more vivacious In mass than th the British or the tho French that their gesturing may not be ns as full of ot vivacity YI as that of ot the average c French Frenchwoman Frenchwoman Frenchwoman woman but that their mental attitude toward life life- Is 15 far more mote spirited He lie made a n study of ot the situation Tic Ile dipped Into It from the p psychological chul the national a and nil 1 01 tho thU racial l viewpoints and nd when ho he was on the point of or throwIng throw throw- In lug Ing up the entire subject as too subtle and anti hopI hopeless R for tor him to fathom he suddenly suddenly sud sud- denly denh exclaimed It t 11 k Is after all nil tho the Puritan You h have ve clung to John 1 c I t 1 l t 6 Jv I 1 Jul II d I It t m mm mr m r Q i Y Le rr I I II I I Autumn gown of heavy satin in I deep Jeep tan with tunic trimmed I I with w wide d bands of beaver This I is the kind ind of frock that is advocated advocat d dI dI I I for winter with the addition of a aI aI I velvet or fur coat z r t 4 fit jI st ste i. i e 00 Alden and forsaken for Geronimo It Is difficult by the way to make tho the French people b believe that wo WI have ha not an Indian strain all through 11 us and that wo we do not pia play with baubles and vv w wear ar strings o of beads b with plea plc j i- i ure and Insist upon re red l quills for tor our hats I have ha detailed this puzzled study tudy of or ofa ofa ora a famous painter because It s seems Slem II to pre press t home ver very strongly at this tills moment mo mo- ment It seems cem to point out that toas we to c. c as a nation turn to tJ somber colors rather than thun glad colors Therefore it 11 itma ma may not be Le possible to tu stop llop us from flom becoming a continent of or sod sodden cn figures figure going to and fro In dark and Ind drao tones that tha t heighten ten woe Increase depression depression depression de de- de- de and dull lull the ce eye The entire effort of those who ho would have ha u us dress s well this autumn Is toward colors and against somberness Keep this well in mind as you ou go SO forth tomorrow to look over autumn clothes I I Do not believe that t you OU havo have the tho genius gen gen- ius lIs of Paul or can Indulge In Inthe Inthe inthe the primitive madness of an Apache and choose violent colors that do not mingle le but hut on the other hand hantl lo do not dismiss the entire question of or coloration coloration coloration colora colora- tion from your our mind and choose a 1 dark It blue a a. dark gra gray or a black frock Features Cn C u of Nety e 6 American me l' l l lon There Is no disposition to conserve conservo color on the tho part of or designers In AmerIca America America Amer Amer- ica who have gotten their ahead of oC the exhibition o of new French clothes which v will witt come about in th the next net three weeks week Th do tJ try to consorts conserve I wool In ding so they follow tho Iho French and English plan of giving 1 frocks frock a wintry look b by adding paltry r. but the they have e no hesitancy In using I ma materials that arc often Ct considered DESIGNERS OP Or AMERICA TO DO EVEN MORE THAN GOVERNMENT ASKS IN CONSERVATION OF WOOL FOR SECOND WINTER OF WAR AND NEW GOWNS APPEAR IN SATIN TRICOTS SILKS CREPES AND IMITATION WOOLENS TO TO TO USE PELTRY ECONOMICALLY ECONOMICALLY ECONOMICALLY ECO ECO- BECAUSE OF WARNING THAT IT MAY BE SCARCE AFTER END OF THE YEAR THROUGH LACK OF MAN POWER HIGH NECKED HIGH NECKED EVENING GOWNS WITHOUT SLEEVES LAUNCHED IN THIS COUNTRY AND FRANCE GREAT BRITAIN AND AMERICA ACCEPT NARROW DRAPED INSTEP SKIRT AS DECIDED l' l FASHION I I I I I I I I suitably only onh for spring and early autumn au au- Crepe de do chine thin velvet et heavy chiffon cloth taffeta faille heavy satIn satin sat sat- tIn t- t in and ami man many of th the tricot weaves cs that Include silk jersey may be bc considered the everyday run of or new materials Serge Scree of or course C Is included It com comes coms 3 first in the middle and last The American designers who have ha chosen these materials In various patented pat tat patented tatI names for their gowns have ha not used fur as lavishly la as 15 was wan prophesied There Is alread already a a warning that we weI ma may not h have hav vo l peltry In a few rw months as there are aro few trapp-arr trapp left and not enough h men to prepare preparo the skins Bands of or peltry arc are used on Items hems of ot skirts high collars cottars and gauntlet cuffs are aro cut In shapely fashion but hut there therea Is a perceptible glimmer of econom economy wherever er fur Cur Is b added d to a n thin material material material ma ma- to give e It a n seasonable appearance appear appear- ance It H I Is IR well that the amateur in clothes Be warned warmed ahead of oC time of or this probable probable probable able scarcity of peltry In order that she may use at nt this