Show I U J 0 u 0 u SKIRTS KIRTS THAT SWEEP THE INSTEP COME I INTO TO FASHION IN A NEW SILHOUETTE ey y y Were i ere e Ad Advanced ui in Anre America r a Year Ago but Were Are Arc R Recognized as Leada Lead- Lead I foot No ot t Successful S Today a They ThY Factor in Dress There Is a Tendency to Pull Them U Upward P in Back After Other Tf War time Fashions They icy e Remain n Exceedingly Narrow arrow at the Hem Henl and the Effect Is Graceful j already a n. nation nt of ot We lye e are ue The Individual errs tho mass masses masse's about race of ot tre- tre Is e's es snot not It rat n. significance Isn't It a thriller thrill thrill- o ene dour alive and taking ones one's bo ho thing thine to n Ii er 6 stir sUr of or tho times when art art In t the happening each ach our It Is hint bingos are that few who are arc alive e today other epoch of oftie would Suld have havo chosen an any tie bC he world in In 11 which to live 11 Wo Yo o can cm caneo cano t eo o things shape and reshape them them- elves vu before our eyes oyes World orld movements mO are not the only Ir tint that engross us I adjustment of or our own lives to meet takes n n and abo ab ab- o orbs oba our Interest There Thero are Me those rho like the old w ways S 'S those who do donit doot doot ot nit ot Fisi 1 m a Co change chance from tho the cr cradle dle to tono ho no grave iora crave either In their own lives or orn ornS n nS nt t those these about them Their order of or offling orl l fling nS' nS is a as established as the move move- movement rt ment t of ot tho the stars The They prefer such i venal and nd moral quietude But oven o b thrilled In this hour hour against heir Inclinations The They find that life liCe s ea us suddenly become absorbingly vital along with tho the rest of or tho the orld odd In Inton tun new horizons and new now The They are arc a bit fri frightened cannot tail fall to bo stirred There must ha have been something n of ii di thrill when whon the cul early Americans gin gin n to find out cut the hl u o of the continent on which ley ey ha hid had stepped from their little eats ats there must have I teen een something this iS when the Crusaders went forth I Reformation of or n ft Nation Th The civil ci war may be honestly called of oC a n nation to today a is the es- es o of tho the birthright o of 41 t l na- na otti We Vo have havo merely been going ton ron Ton Ton- and lust lusty for fill fifty years today tr tre e forward suddenly finding ln ln cJ grown rown to mins min's measure What concerns th the nation concerns l le The reformation of a Uon atlon which Is taking pl place cO toda today weans leans that each individual in it Is as- as the new powers and the tho new fer action reformation lon means the re- re Ey Dy E one ono o oi of the particles that Hint ste Hi the mass of or people We 0 are arc no II V t longer er extra extravagant children We P are arc economical l conservative e grownups Now the tho w woman's womans ans an's part In that re reformation reformation re- re formation Is s tremendous ous Her tier problems problems lems lena are Just as great as those that face the m n. n In fact thc they arc are great great- rent rent- er cr Tho rho late laic Joseph Josrph Choate once said a g ay i we all all remember In his toast to the Pilgrim Mothers that they not only stood the same dangers a as tho the Pilgrim Fathers but hut they stood the Pil Pilgrim Fathers Father Ono One may say of the women of today that the they not on only I stand the hardships that the tho men stand but the they b give VO up their bc best beat t-be- t loved men to death It Is therefore only right that the appeal to tho the women on this side of the water while the bono of their bone honc boner anc an and the thc flesh of or their flesh flash are fighting fight ing ing- ingon on the other aide lIdo of ot the water Its It's a al to o ask of wom women n In any riny epoch but It has hns been asked h by Life nd Nature r s E Eve e The celebrated Dr Jowett of New NewYork NewYork ew York who has been called by his king and country to preach In Great Brit BrU- Britain ain nin once tragIcally cd in hl his sermon on Mary Magdalen that where- where over ever there is a woman there is the shadow ot of a l Cross ClOSS Tho The part that women are doing Inthis in inthis inthis this country Is to re regard clothes and food as o of fundamental importance There are thousands who do not quite see Eee the var war through this looking glass and who feel fe-el that time tho kitchen the sewing room and the nurs nursery n should be entirely given up for 01 surgical dressings and committee meelin meetings S This J Is too big bib a 1 subject to discuss Each In individual must wor work out her own p But nut one outstanding truth rises above all the tho others which is that It If the children are well taken care of or an and If Ir clothes are at their best through a minimum of expense then the women are aro doing doing- their part The They have uwe no elS easy task cor fronting thim lh Tho rho fool question his has no place In a fashion stor story hut but tho clothes question Is Its Ita paramount subject Pacing the Xe Nen Sermon Sennon August Is 15 a serene sereno or stormy month as you OU look at nt It You may determine to wear whatever wh clothes faded an and shabby b until the limo first tint frost flost demands a warm frock but If Ie you OU do this tills j you ou are not making the thc best of things You will find that all about you O ou women arc arc extraordinarily keen about their appearance ap- ap today toda Those who were slop slop- I s v IT T OF MILITARY sf RAID TOUCHES m F t HE EE NEW EROE ERGE FROCKS I I I J N I 4 H J.- J. I Hi JQ tr t tt I L t rJ y yi 11 r i p. p 1 L jr bT TT r I 1 I I T r i I 1 l 7 J r oj t. t 1 01 d r. r a I L d k kl kr l r 11 i 1 1 al po vl c t IL 3 J. J 4 Broad road silk Hercules braid is used in conventional titles lines across the front frontis this is skirt of thin blue serge The sides are lre treated in an unusual manner taro 7 p aro slightly full from to waist arc held down by the braid Y he hips hills and then flare nare into fine fine r At the left is a a. blue and At the right is the new white striped flannel suit pale Pille gray and blue striped the coat lined with Chinese Chi Chi- flannel suit with tho multiple mul mul- nese pongee It is simply 1 tiple pockets There are arc cut without trimmings trimmin 8 l two on each hip and one and even omits mits buttons on each side of the front down tho the front of th the hem horn These are i rr 8 i called package pockets I l i tt ti 1 44 4 1 4 7 t I r C i 1 r I I i I r ij 1 f 1 Ia f Ji j J 1 l. l E i 1 r. r t. t I J I c RA i I t f r hd 3 t J. J 1 t j J to 1 7 I f J t tp if i 4 It 11 t J. J J. J w. w i 3 LT r f or f t ff s Li T I i J py have ha those W who 10 were sha shabby b have become smart those who ho were unstylish have pulled themselves them them- selves es Into the picture o of the hour Clothes have ha undergone tho same samo transformation as ag everything else elso In America Economy an and conservation are art tho the l keynote e noto of dressing but ut only the 01 very Indifferent or tho thu overburdened bur over and morbid woman Is careless of her appearance The word morale has become the foundation stone tone of this war an and women women wom wom- en who are arc keenly emotional hol hold on to it as ns to a They must not be morbid and the they must not be shab shab- by Optimism must shine from their tacos faces and their clothes This Is I a part palL of or their burden and the mass mal s of women women wom wom- en have risen to It as is w women omen omen can cm be bep depended p upon to do in allY any national emergency So summing up all this an and making matIne- our appearance a part of ot the morale oCa of oC ofa ofa a nation the question bobs up as to how best to dress between now and the first frost If It spring clothes arc are still doing doing- dut duty the they are arc undoubtedly undoubted faded an and 1 shabby If a woman has been In active service sel The They must mut be lie ic- ic or covered One set Est et of women women buys bUB new things another set buys burg ne new coverings co It is a n. question of ot taste table an and comfort Attract the Popular I There Is small hope hop for a top coat coal these days das It Its career was abruptly ended when nhen capes became the fashion women in indulged ul e in tho the loose picturesque Quo cape capo two years ago I ani and clung to the theory that it was the comfortable and suitable type of covering o for a frock or a suit The shops finally lIy took up the theory theor ann nn offered loose wraps at all prices from 15 to 10 IO There is no diminution In the fashIon fash- fash Ion Tho The economical Cal woman finds that thata a a. fresh new covering can hide a n faded adell adellor or dusty gown and give s one a feeling of or self respect in Irl pu public places The rhe new cope capos arc ro suitable for oat Olt suits as asell aswell yell well as frocks and their fabrics run the gamut amut Satin Geor Georgette elte crepe all tho heavy Chinese silks striped and plain tarr taffeta tn broadcloth elo velour r and chiffon are aio chosen chose how ow mo Limo lO top coat cont has lias become Decomo a part n of A costume and It oven even permits a cape to ho bo worn o over It If it II Il Is rather fascinating as is a redingote It resolves es Itself Into tills this land kind of oC garment limit hut when hen It Is of or crepe do de chine or 01 c soft satin Balin It Is slipped over o a severely I plain chemise frock of oC another color rind nd forms forma a a. These new top tot coats follow ollow tho the path blazed b by the jackets that belong to suit quip in that the they do not nol fa fasten It en In front In Jn fart tart they do not Pretend to lo oven ovon me meet t in front The They aio aro broad enough to r roach reach ach across tho time chest ami and waist but bul the fashionable trick Is to push the fronts back until they are arc almost al almot almost al- al most mot und under I the arms In order that thal a 1 abroad I broad e expanse of th the frock fiock rna may show i Do not run lun over o this Item as an nn In Insignificant Insignificant In- In lIi significant one It IK is a fashion that Was wis v s b begun un In Paris Pails five months ago when whon the first warm wen weather ther broke into being and it has hns ruled since Inee then In Amer America ln wo we arc ro Just JURl beginning to take It up with an any r ani and by hy the tho lino we have established d It as a af f fashion our cold coM weather will make malce us lh the fronts front of to bring 0 om our coats together and f fasten them snugly from collarbone collarbone collar collar- cOllar I bone to hips If one uses use a Jack Jacket t lon long or short abort I a as a redingote rc the need for f fastening will not present ll Itself eJ for or the cold weather will bring in hi the cape of ot cloth or fur tur with Its Ils its huge collar and ande tv e c ema ma may wear an any kind of oC costume it Herein lies llos its value to the economist l. l The The- black and white while combination combination com cont- Is brilliantly done In capes that are worn on the street as lS well as ns asto asto to evening e affairs The Tho bo body Y of or the cape Is of or black satin an and the decorations decorations decorations decora decora- are arc of oC white while satin The vv leather eathor Is hot enough to permit these thin fabric capes to be bo worn during all tho the The a multitude walking hours They cover covel of ba bad details In a gown that could not do service ser If exposed to the searching searching search search- in ing sunlight Trick of or Ii In Fullness at nt Sides Side The idea of pulling back the tho fronts of or a redingote oto or jacket In order to show a wide expanse expanse of or gown oWn beneath Is 13 not a mere Idle trick that Is con- con Thin Thill Striped So Soft finish Flannel Is Taken Up for lor or 1 Mid Mid- season Coat Suits Worn With Colored S Silk rl Shirts and Sailor Hats French Fashion That Has Cone Come to Ameri America ca Six Months Late but Finds 11 Many any Advocates A An Another n nother other New Nelv Silhouette Is the Broadening o of the Sides o of Sl Skirt rt and the Flatte Flattening nin s sIs o of the r e Front merit and Back Bach Which Is an Adaptation o of a Spanish Skirt Without a Far Far- tl r in ale I fined to one ono garment It Is part of ot a I widespread movement mo It Il establishes a certain silhouette It Jl Is a dominant note In what hat Paris has done for the American tra trade e for tor three months ItIs It ItIs Itis Is a bit lt new to us but it I Is to look Into It well and consider It se seriously seriously se- se e- e because after all tho the silhouette silhouette ette Is more Important than the choice of material or color If It you ou get your our lines right you ou can take talo a great deal of lIbert liberty elsewhere in your our costume This new trick is la definite a n. attempt to put funes at nt the sides eldea of or the figure fig fig- uio ure and nd therefore broaden the tho flat tat outline out outline out out- line that is presented from rom the front or the buck back Sh Short lt t Jackets j arc are pushed back to give 11 under the tho arms long IonS ones are pushed back to give gl ful ful- ness from shoulder to knees nl new frocks arc specially designed with this silhouette in mind There is a a. smart new v blue serge from Paris that has all its arr arranged arranged ar ar- ar- ar r ranged n ed from under tho the arms arms arms' to tho the hem of ot the This fullness Is ma made e eup up imp from rom a succession of or pleats that are held in over o the hips by bands of military military mili mili- t l' tary braid bral that cross the middle of or the front and seem to broaden tho the outline b by several inches There is no effort to widen willen the hem o of the tho skirt by hy means of its It is securely pressed or stitched In place for as skirts grow longer lonser thc they grow row narrower Skirts Skin n Begin in to Sweep Siege SN l Taste Instep It Is difficult to talk of or economy econom and conservation conser in respect to a n. brand brand- new fashion that Is hurled at us out of or the blue Yet the combination comb Is not only possible but oftentimes satisfying sat sat- What is called the new skirt was advanced last December In America by American designers and it ha had been exploited hero for house gowns six months before so BO it Is not new It night might ht be bo called calle a purely American design design design de de- sign although h the house that exploited it for tho trio evening e Is 15 under tho the strong strong- strongest ng- ng cst est French Influence However Howe it was an independent action and ha had nothing to do with inspiration from Paris Tho second d house that thal started the long skirt for COl the street acted In an independent ent manner This skirt was not taken up although h It was constantly worn by the woman who designed it We rc arc rather rathor slow to catch on to a n new fashion but when we do like it we overdo it Therefore it is likely that tho the long skirt will HI be become become become be- be come an In accepted thing In mass before be- be before before be be- fore Thanksgiving This prophecy ma may maybe maybo 1 bo be 0 wrong It Is no time lime to tn forecast I anything in an any quarter of or life But nut the tho propaganda for tho the long skirt IsI is I I sinking deeply Into the hearts of or wom- wom UNUSUAL CAPE IN BLACK J. J SATIN AND WHITE j r 1 It t hangs loosely over the figure fig fig- I j J jJ lil Y i ure and is pulled upward in and nd fast fast- fastens 4 folds sarong fashion ens at the waist with a loose J girdle It is lined and piped I k I i with white satin and the unusual unusual unusual unus unus- ual cape is also of white satin The deep cuffs cufis are fastened rj with jet links 1 t 0 n a 1 r y r f f f. f to t I. I i i 1 TT |