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Show TJIAVEL IN NORWAY CORRESPONDENT PRAISES H08-PITALITY H08-PITALITY OF CITIZENS. See Little of the Midnight Sun Houses Very Like the Log Huts of Our Own West Americans Always In Favor. (Special Correspondence.) When wo seo somo places for tho first time, wo find thum less than wo oxpoctod. With Norwny, It Is qutto tho other thing. It has more rocks, moro waterfalls, more hospitality and moro weather than I anticipated. The dull nnd chilly dnys along tho coast toward North Capo (which, by tho way, wo novor saw at all), and on tho voyago south from It, was Illuminated Illumi-nated by tho sun of royalty, but wo had only ono glimpse of tho midnight sun. King Oscar of Swodon nnd Norwny broko upon our sight at Troraso. Ho stood on the bridge of his yacht, a grave, white ftlng, giving tho saluto of a naval officer. In that gray haired man stood nil that Napoleon's conquests con-quests moan to-day cf earthly glory, tho descendant of that Marshal Dcr-nadotto Dcr-nadotto who grasped and held what Ills chief, who gavo It, lost himself, a crown. Tho midnight sun appeared for us but once. This Is how It behaves. It goes down to tho edgo of tho horizon of tho sea Just liko any ovoryday sun. There It stays a bit, and swings along at tho vorgo as If playing a slow game of bowls; then climbs In n reluctant sort of way up Into tho sky ngaln. Thero was a lady on our ship who had taken this trip In 1S90, nnd told us that she left Hammorfest, going north, a dull, cowering, commonplnco Httlo town, nnd when she reached It on turning south, It wns n roaring mass of (lames, the inhabitants fleeing flee-ing for their lives, nnd their shrill screams coming to tho oars of those on tho ship. Tho captain sent to ask what ho could do to help, and they cried to. him to hurry on and send them food and clothos from tho nearest near-est port. Tho reindeer woro a disappointment to mo. They looked small and HI fed, I thought, when it number of them Avoro rounded up with their accompanying accom-panying Lapps for us to seo. I had expected them to compare moro favorably favor-ably with their owners than they did and why they walked Indian fllo round nnd round a heap of stones, upon which two or throo among them took turns in standing still, I am not Btudentl enough to dctermlno. All I could lpmRlne was that they might havo hpbrltffl thjyoliiUtiTfcini Ta-CooforsJ Ta-CooforsJ who uscaTo nwlng nromid tho circle at the pole. After wo left tho ship at Dergen. tho real fun of tho trip began. Wo saw scenery from that tlmo on, but wo saw the peoplo, too. Their cheek bones aro sot higher than Is common with us, nnd they often seem to havo tholr oyos narrowed, half-shut, ns If from agc3 of looking at bright sun and waves; but I liked them from tho first. I liked tholr hard rod color and tholr yellow hnlr and the frlondll-noss frlondll-noss of tholr glanco at tho strangers as thoy passed. Tholr faceB looked ns If their hearts opened outward. Itlco tho windows of tholr houses; and, though thero was no lack of courtesy nnywhero In tho width of Norway, thoro was no sorvllity of manner. That never belongs to peasants who own their bit of land as theso hnvo always done With tho oxcoptlon of tho train an thoy pass hotween your companion compan-ion and yourself on tho scat beforo him. Tho lad, always a small boy, makes encouraging sounds with his mouth to tho horso between tho Bhafts. Tho stocky Httlo beast, with bis mano cropped tc a stiff, erect brush, dashes away over the perfect road, and the panorama of snovcov-crod snovcov-crod heights and tumbling cascades, bits of greon grass at their foet, thick with all tho flowers of tho wholo summer massed togothor, begins for tho day. Thero Is no tlmo for a procession of blooms here. Tho Httlo whito "In- Laplanders with Reindeer. noconts" of our April aro growing sldo by sldo with tho golden rod of our fall, and tho dandelions, daisies, panslcs, buttorcups, yarrow, clover and a score besides, aro all there, too, hurrying Into flower beforo tho quick cold comes. Now nnd then tho boy cries "Pr-r-rl" and tho horso stops short. It has a sound ns If made by a person per-son shivering with cold. All northern north-ern nations appear to uso it. In Russia Rus-sia it Is Just tho samo as hero. Tho houses scattered up on those heights and wastes of Norway aro very lrKiTtke log huts of our own West, tho same shape, tho samo size. Tho builders stuff moss between the logs, nnd tho roofs look different from thoso of tho kindred dwellings at home, for a layer of birch bark has been spread upon tho boards, and over that another of turf cut Into squares and fitted closo together Upon tUlfr growB grass In which flow-Y3JBBjcWy,Woom)s, flow-Y3JBBjcWy,Woom)s, so .ftrfat thes tops "Uf'-liir tho houses appear Ilko pieces of the fields lifted Into tho nlr. Out from tho doors beneath these roofs the little children ran to look at us. Both parents were always In the hay Holds, piling the scanty crop carefully care-fully upon racks that looked like short fences built up In tho center of tho spaco. Tho wisps thoy laid across tho rails were very small, and every particle of tho dried grass was gleaned. Tho young girls were nil up In tho rough huts put up for them to live In, high In tho mountains, while In tho summer thoy tend tho cnttlo. which nro drlvon up thero to food where tho grass cannot bo othcrwlso gathered. Thero these red-cheeked girls stay, making butter nnd cheese, spinning und keeping an oyo on tho cows, pigs nnd goats, among tho melting snow patches nnd tho flowors and grass closo to them. It seemed quito a fashion for ti girl to bo at- Laplanders and Hut. from Bergen to Voss and a stoamcr up tho magnltlcont Ilardangor fiord, whoro tho mountains Inclose tho narrow, nar-row, winding way which, ngos ago. fought its path through them Into tho hoart of tho hind, we drove across Norway In the queer Httlo gig of the country. It Is on the principle of tho hansom, han-som, somowhat, tho drlvor sitting behind, be-hind, though not nbovo, so that his rolno aro forovgr sawing at your arms tendod by a clean, whlto pot pig. I saw several such chaporonos of lonoly young flpur.s, but novor n dog, "A bonuty bom of murmuring sound Shall pas into hor faeo." Wordsworth bollovod. Woll, If running run-ning water can glva this grace to womnn, hir.. Is tho plnco for It to do I so. Days went In which tho nlr was vocul with ensoudoB nnd fonmlngtor-ronte fonmlngtor-ronte from dajvji till It should hnvo boon dark, ajjc$rdlnp to all' precon colved Ideas of night hours. It norer was dark at all as a matter of fact. Onco In a while wo saw at tho stations sta-tions a' man who knew a Httlo English, Eng-lish, and his fnco always lighted up when ho found wo wore Americans. Wo seem very popular there. Tho Kngllsh buy tho people's logs that wo saw clogging tho streams, or rather that part of tho rivers on tho lower slopes to which thoy ware confined, for there Is a very clover arrangement arrange-ment of barriers, chained lines of logs, which pnn tho drlvo Into Its quarters at each sldo of tho mlddlo channel of the stream. England is their market, b.ut America Is tho homo of tholr sons, and tho heart goe3 out whero tho children aro. Wheu any of tho emigrants como back they always seem to havo money Jingling In every pocket, n young woman told mo In Chrlbtianla when I asked her about tho matter of their success, but fow over como back at all, she sadly added. |