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Show t !t '- ' ' '' " I IN THE MAGIC EAsfT'ft 5 Stroota of tho EfyptUn Cnpltnl Q I If - i f I I (SPECIAL- CORRESPO M DENCEI H Q 8 Nothing in Cairo Is so eloquent of change as tho streets. Fifteen years ago one could see In tho Mooskl Bazaar tho true Eastorn city, with Its 1 narrow crowded lanes, its aocumula- , tlons of filth and rubbish, Us brilliant splashes of color, nnd Its strange, tin-f tin-f mistakablo smell. So tho old rosi er dent will toll you, but now In tho A Mooakl and tho lnnes loading off It, I as well as In the warrens behind tho I Khodlval library, you will see puffs I of patont medicines, sun helmets, and Greek shops with polyglot lnscrlp- tlons and glass fronts. Even now thcro Is much that Is Oriental survlv- ' 7 ing in thoso quartors, whllo a few hundred yards away you aro In wldo I ' and airy thoroughfares swarming i with tho same mixed population that 1 clogs the Mooskl, but In all elso dif- r ' forlng little from many Mediterranean cities. Thero Is n difference, to my mind a happy .inference, between Cairo and London, not to montlon other European Euro-pean capitals. Thero aro newspapers in Cairo, It Is true, but they hide their j light under a bushol, and you aro ofton ., --- compelled to seek them Instead of """" "oJ.. pursuing you. Thero are newsboys news-boys and nowsboys who cry. tholr papers at nightfall In Cairo, but as far as my own experience goes thoy nro.gonerally only to bo heard around cortaln fltrcets, and, baring ho win-f win-f - ncra, no latest betting to shout, their voices lack that frenzy which Is characteristic char-acteristic of tho camolot. But If thero j are few nowsboys In Cairo, tho city s has substitutes In tho art of produc- lng nolso In its donkey boys, who shout by day, and Its musicians, who f.. celebrate wedding feasts by night. To tho untrained European ear each of tho performers on the tom-tom, or darabukeh. drum, tambourine and flute appears to bo extemporizing Independently, In-dependently, and the combination of . -- extraordinary sounds cannot bo said 'to havo a tranquillizing effect, especially especial-ly between the hours of 11 at night a, - and 1 o'clock In tho morning. A mar riage among tho better-class Mosloms is the signal for a musical orgle which may last for an entire week, and tho strnnger, after listening with a tolerant interest to tho fostlvltlos YiJf-r .yMonday and Tuesday evening, reels ' f( certain Impatience when the quavor- lng cries of slngoni and the thud and clash of brass and parchment disturb ,. his first sleep on tho third and fourth nights. I To tho tourllst tho native quarter I of Cairo moans Cairo and tho Mooskl 3 Bazaar, but these two districts aro r - Ty no means as Oriental to-day as Ij other less-known divisions of tho city. If A tram runs through Old Cairo, and - V- tho Mooskl Bazaar is changing, but west and southwest of tho citadel there la a raazo of lnnos and alleys I ' -which bear but llttlo trace of Western lnfluonco. Tho ground without the walls Is one gigantic rubbish heap, an unending series of mounds of broken ' potshorda and crumbled brick, hldo- blado of. grasK jn tho cemetery, nothing noth-ing but ankle deep dust on whjeh cquaro dtrty-whlto buildings and misshapen mis-shapen whitewashed tombs are flung. Tho bulldogs contain tho burial placos of tho rich, and within their walls It may bo possible to seo something some-thing bonutiful, somo token of lovo for tho d.cPn""ft' '"J , a gnlous shape hi granlto or marble. But tho" outer walls present only a horrid and unrollovcd bnrencss to tho eye, and tho doors and shuttered windows aro i 11 V JK 31. V " -0 f JLK sl7 r VV4 C jJ I JKf " i"ifT ff W Native Arab and Wife. 9 ously bnro, and tenanted only by a ' ow quarrymen and wolfish pariah 'M dogo. To tho moundB succeeds a - groat comotory that thrusts ltsolf, in V all lta uogllgonco and Bqunlor, between M tu0 citadel and tho tombs of tho m Mamolukos. Thero Is no leaf or 1 poorer ami rovisiev thnii In tho Mooskl, Moos-kl, so you will occasionally notlco that tho llttlo groups Bitting outsldo tho Arab cafes spit on tho ground with disconcerting unanimity as you pass, and the children dear llttlo lnnoconts whom you try to avoid treading "down, w'totlCllafi'to'Dwnjour'fathcr, the- frtvtfrite curao j-lrtPthh country. , After long, wanderings fa thoso streets you get back w'ith some -clief Into tho better quartors. iThcy may be defiled in tho eyes off the ymist by Europoan advertisements but tho aro cleaner. "Tho Magic East" has been coleb'ratod by scores of pools as a Motivating nnd luxurious goddess, tho spell of whoso beauty is more powerful than tho wisdom of tho West It may be, but does not the goddess at times appoar to us In tho gulso of a slatternly "genoral" with more than a partiality to dirt? Mosque of Touloon. lockea nnd barrod, whllo around thom tho tombs of tho poor, rising three or four feet at most from tho dust, seem to differ only in slzo from tho stones, potsherds, and battered tins, all tho meaningless litter that tho Band and dust have not yet quite covered. When at last you And your way among tho houses and shake the dust of the gravoyard from off your feet and clothes, you find yourself, in narrow nar-row streets rull of sharp turns and crowded with beasts and mon. Under foot tho road is nothing but dunt In ono place but in another slippery with trampled green stuff, orange peel and tho slops that are thrown from tho houses. Tho smell of njanuro and wood ashes Alls tho air, save where now and again you catch tho acrid, smell of long unwashed clothes. There aro no buildings hero that strangers como to seo. Thare are only mean streets and llttlo cafes, with rows of brown mon sitting with their knees up to their noses on tho roadside, road-side, and shop fronts whore marvellously marvell-ously tawdry handkerchiefs hang in rows on clotheslines. In, this quarter Europeans are rather Infrequent visitors, visi-tors, and tho natlvo population is |