" .i - " "t- I ' The Charm of Good Taste is Always Simplicity The Wool Trimmings Make. Their Debut Now York, Oct. 1C. There is a kind of breathless interest hero in Now York, over tho battlo of tho bustlo nnd tho straight silhouette. Today, ono Is suro that tho long skirt and tunic, In other words tho straight silhouette. Is triumphant; tomorrow, to-morrow, thero may bo seen so many charming examples of tho bustlo i frock, both on tho street nnd on tho stage, that one thinks it surely will bo accepted. However, at tho present pres-ent moment, tho ono-plcco dress nnd tho frock with tho long tunic seem to be tho favorites. "? umm0m Seinl-FIUcd Dress of Velvet. On tho stage, to bo sure, tho bus tlo Is most attractive. Thero Is somo thing very graceful about tho fall of soft materials In pleats or drapory, whether it bo at tho fcldo or In tho back. Sashes, too, aro used to obtain ob-tain this effect, thus sllltly breaking break-ing tho straight lino. Tho materials materi-als nro upusUly velvet or. duvetyn, In any of tho soft shades of tho present season. Simplicity IMhs CI wnmt. Tho slogan of "A.wrle.'fn Fash-Ions" Fash-Ions" has brought out some wonderfully wonder-fully Interesting things. Indeed, thero Is no reason why tho Amorlean" designers should not bo ' tho best Judges of tho styles nast becoming nnd nmiroprlato to tho American woman. Tho slightly Wtted waist, not unllko tho first form of the basque, hns tho tunic that Is longer In tho front than tho back, and tho ankle-length skirt. It Is truly tho costuino of tho lady, and tho Illustration Illustra-tion hero shows somo of tho nowost features of this stylo. The points of tho waist nre wclghtrtl with balls and chains In tho form of amber bends. Tho beads aro used Instead of a tie, too, coming from under tho collar. Tho velvet of tho dress falls In charming folds, and tho pointed collar and deep cuffs nro of heavy satin. Needless to add that this Is a costumo for thoso occasions when ono wishes to bo particularly woll-dressed, woll-dressed, without having that "dressed up" fooling. And Now Wool Trimmings. From Paris, uncensored, conies tho report of something now In tho trimming trim-ming lino! Tho voguo for knitting and crocheting has revived so much Interest In that Interesting art that a now fad has sprung up. Wool trimmings nro used on everything, fiom tho slmplo sorgo dross to th moro elaborate nftcrnoo i r-Wir i- Thero nro bands for hutH,,,h(.lis, ., J or collars and cuffs, nil in shades soft or brilliant, as tho occasion demands. de-mands. Thoso trimmings nro even, In somo casos, supplanting tho uso of fur on suits nnd coats. Shawl collars, col-lars, mado of angora or brushed wool, nro considered very modish. Rail trimmings, crocheted in bright colars, and round flat flowers of wool embroidery, can bo used both for hat.i and dresses. Just think how smart you can bo, with vory llttlo effort on your part, If you can knit or crochet cro-chet nnd can sparo tho tlmo from the dull-gray and ollvo-drab sweaters you nro turning out by tho wholesale for tho sailor nnd s oldlur boys! Tho work goes quickly and Is pleasant, besides being so very effective. Tim suit for Afternoon Affairs. After all, thoro Is nothing that can tnko the placo of tho coat suit, that old stand-by of ours. Mado of velvet, vel-vet, velveteen or any of tho soft wool- en materials, It can bo trimmed with fur, velvet, or left untrlmmed, just ns It pleases you. Tho ono Illustrated Illustrat-ed hero Is very slmplo Indeed, tho sldo-panel- effect of tho coat Is ono O .M ClLI. Tho Stialgbt-I.liie Silhouette, of the newest features of this season. sea-son. Hero tho straight sllhouctto Is apparent; tho tight Bleeves nnd the narrow skirt seem to cmphaslzo It. And So It Goes. Do you remembor your dressos of 1913, tho year before tho war? If you have any of horn put away, get thorn out, fpr tho styles of today soem to bo roturnlity; to thnt year for inspiration. Skirts aro tighter than thcy-havo been. 'Vlio much-talked-of busOo la! not unllko tho drapery wo nil woro then, and tho sleoves nro very much tho samo. Of course, thero nro small changes, nnd big ones, ' too, Hint overy ono can see. Thero is a fnsclnatlng llttlo shop Just of of Fifth nvonuc, that lays' great stress on "typo." What Is your typo? Do you look best In tho long straight things that glvo height and slenderness? Or aro you blender blen-der enough, nnd bo can look llko Princess Charming in tho bustlo effect? ef-fect? jvyhntovor Jt is, stick to It. This ycaY you c.-ui, and you will bo backetl-by fnmous designers no matter mat-ter which of tlfta two silhouettes you choosp! Si ..