| Show JL I 4 i J 7 4 c I. I I 4 1 a. a r 1 p i S S S S S 5 3 S r 2 4 45 gj if 5 4 r z i 4 4 4 t W 4 S r rm t ML S 4 S S i 5 S 5 5 fit S t ji S1 4 a I s S- S S b ii Evening Gown of Black Net Embroidered Jet and Iau i BY LADY GORDON DUFF-GORDON LUCILE S HIS week I am a.m. am sending you rr THIS some orne pictures of at evening gowns which will vIII bo seen this coming season First let et me speak of at the black gown cown net This Is Is I think one of ot my favorite creations an and models Its most noticeably notice notice- ably new features are the arrangement of at the tho train and the addition of ot a quaint little corselet which will I promise prove pro exceedingly becoming be be- be coming coming- to any figure of ot the approved and Indeed most necessary slender- slender n ness ss So much for tor contour contourS while hUe next so that you may be equally well Informed as to coloring let et me mo chronicle an un- un of at whose pi uk Is so delicate that It Is hardly distin distin- froni tho the skin Itself though Just at the a still softer sorter transparency trans trans- of ot colored tulle is added to make maleo the dividing line between tho the body and bodice even oven more elusive and difficult of at discovery Narrow stripes are broidered In cr crystal crystal crys crys- stal s 's tal beads and bugles on the till about the ankles this this- gives place to a transparency of ot chiffon and trails of at little pink roses festooned above a narrow bordering fold told of at palo pale blue satin All AU this dainty detail Is quite plainly and prettily visible through h the veiling overdress of ot black net with Its heavy y I bordering device of Jet The fhe train too being primarily black blacks though It Introduces Intro Intro- introduces duces at the left side a band of vivid passion flower purple net all wrought with stones and beads and bugles In THE NEW EVENING OWNS GOWNS The Bla Black l Net Dress the Bg New Lily LUy Elsie Dress S the Shoes for the New Slit-Skirt Slit S 0 ino tue same glorious color while then tho the I right side is In Its turn finished ott art with a narrow trellis trams beads work of ot tiny jet let The corsage of ot th the black ried ned net Is carrIed car car- in a hl high h point at either t the he close side onto transparency of at flesh-colored flesh net which follows faithfully all the pretty prett curves of at the shoulders and arms A bordering lino of ot diamonds s showing howing on tho the skin alcin therefore make a 0 while a bracelet band of ot p purple urple and diamond fine tine embroidery embroider e e fastened about th the arms Is Js et eb Of this same purple too too Is t tIo b corselet Its novel that shaping lit lit- b being eing marked out by a a. shining tracer k Ii o of at f Jet and diamonds tracery ann and divided b by a central c b ornament of paste whose whoso barbarIcally bar- bar beautiful design blazes out a against little loops of at peacock blue and g shot green silk the Jeweled girdle I e ends being lined with the same silk a und and nd broidered with purple as well p paste aste as The purple and black plumes of ot that most original head-dress head are aro all grouped at the back while banded low a about bout tho the forehead and the sleek s smooth hair Is a a. fold of ot the peacock peacock- h hued silk Another equally beautiful creation I ts think t hink Is tho the Lily Elsie gown Iown also s shown hown on this page This Is a dress dregs made famous by the lb l lo el lovely ovely actress In the Duke of ot Luxem Luxem- b lb bour bourg Its film filmy net of ot faintest possible b ble le pink being all wrought with diamonds dia dla- m monds mons and silver and crystals while m man many any tin tiny roses more definitely pink I In n tint are Imprisoned In the shining meshwork which borders the under t transparency of ot pink flesh-pink ninon th The Tho narrow satin bordered train h hangs angs quite separately from the skirt a and nd so 80 can be thrown easily over the therm a arm rm and out of ot the tho way when dancing Is I s In progress this being an arrangement arrange arrange- m ment ent as much appreciated b by the general general genral gen gen- e eral ral company as by the Individual ew w And f then then to complete the delicate c color olor scheme the tho soft sott blue of or a summer s sk eky ky and the deeper tone of ot turquoises s seen een through pale-green pale sea water are brought together In the little diamond broidered corselet and the Ion loni chiffon scarf which han hangs s far down one side of tho the skirt blue being again the chosen color for tor the last ornament The cloak which completes the gown is of the faintest pink ninon whose transparency transparency though though at one side al almost almost almost al- al most covered with satin and silk and silver reveals reveals Just a hauntIng hauntIng hauntIng haunt- haunt Ing suggestion of at those Inner blues arid and littering glittering traceries of tho the gown The different shaping and anti arrangement arrangement arrange arrange- ment of at each side Is noteworthy and new and tassels you see Bee pIa play a promInent prom prom- meat part In fastening and finish I want vant to mention too the new beaded caps which will be seen this year ear The They are ornamented with cornelian carnelian cornelian cor car nelian and other brightly colored beads Shoes will play a prominent part f among the dress novelties of t the comIng coming corning com corn ing season Reason owing to the combined shortness shortness of ot made tailor and walking skirts and the further fact tact that these will will often b be slit silt UP for some inches at the side or when buttoning down the front will be loft unbuttoned near the hers hem an and then turned back In a single envelope elope point There are In fact a dozen different devices for bringing feet and footgear Into full view Even en the lengthier draperies of afternoon and evening gowns Cowns will achieve the same desired and when and when the feet teet are pretty prett desirable end I And then to make the whole effect still more eye arresting shoes of f the S most strikingly bright colors colors' will be bo worn oven In the daytime and the tho winter win- win tor ter purple red green and rO royal al blue and antelope being modeled into that most favored shape which Is finished off with a wide flat bow this for preference pret- pret being mado made In the same sarno soft sott leather If ribbon b be used the difference differ differ- ence enco in texture is bound to result In a 11 certain difference of at tone Another shoe which is likely to enter into ri rivalry rl- rl val valry with its popular predecessor 13 is made mae wI with th a Ion long vamp and In tact mat continues Its glove fitting career al almost almost almost al- al most to the tho ankle Its place of fastening fastenIng fasten fasten- ing being at the tho left side instead of ofIn ofin ot otIn In front as usual and the tho rather wide silken laces being drawn into a Jaunty little bow high up against the ankle It undoubtedly has Its charms but butI S I would advocate It only In the tho soft sort neutral shades of ot gray and fawn tawn or again In black the lower lowar cut far ad model being more suited to the brighter h ter colors already noted But the newer shape Is being enthusiastically enthusiastically b by somo people for evening wear when mado made In satin to match the gowns ns and embroidered all allup allup allup up the tho front with a graduated g device de of ot otI I cr crystal stal b beads ads and bugles of ot silken thread tho the side bow being of ot silver S tissue and its ends fringed with the thc shining crystal beads while sometimes to suit the different colors gold Is substituted for the silver and aria then again Jet beads and look well J on a background of say 7 cerise eone or royal roya blue blu saU satin Some of or the uie white lI shoes too banish tho the crystal beads bonds altogether r and uso only gold cold old In their device while high golden olden heels aro are a prettier and fascinating fasci fasci- feature S But In spite of ot the de decorativeness of ot their d design which I admit and as be ing a novelty must duly proclaim my own o personal preference will always b be given to shoos shoes of ot the simplest possible style le as 88 these do not Increase the apparent apparent ap ap- ap- ap parent size of at the foot root foot an the trimmed varieties are sometimes apt to do nor do-nor nor by reason of ot their elaboration be the rivals Instead of ot the tho unobtrusively harmonious companions of ot the tho gown For the same reason too I would al always always al- al W ways s 's choose the tho plainest plainest but but also tho the finest finest ot of silken stockings stocking's finished oft off at the aides with self colored silk clocks and would not permit to be worn with any of or my model gowns a black stocking which from tram ankle to knee at the outer edge cde shows an Interlaced interlaced Inter Inter- laced of at cerise or emerald ribbon ribbon rib rib- bon tho the Introduction of ot this thin particular ular ular not not alto altogether ether pretty novelty novelty- being belnA of or course duo to the promised popularity of ot the up slIt skirt Very long and wide companIoned companioned compan compan- by giant muffs mus are likely to be much favored I fancy taney though I always think that their combined effect Is apt to be bo Just a n. little cumbersome Infinitely In In- finitely more chic Is 18 the contrast be between be- be tween a a. of say skunk fur tur fastened fastened fas fas- fas- fas at one side with a cockade rosette of ot satin and a a. muff mutt of at the largest possible possible pos pos- sible proportions and pillow shaping Of Ot course to secure this particular smartness of ot effect you must needs sacrifice sac sac- nc- nc something of ot protective warmth and If It If being a chilly y mortal you are not prepared to do this thin I would recommend mend to your our consideration and choice a blending of ot either skunk or black blackfox fox and se seal musquash In your our long stole and big muff for the black fox In particular while being exceedingly becoming In Its silky softness cannot with with any truth at any ony rat rate rate lay lay lay claim to durability Any y one and every one 5 r S s S 2 1 S. S IF I t r. r 1 r 4 i S I S l 0 L I s 4 4 4 3 L 5 3 S 2 4 5 r y Y j on Flower Purple turpIe J I II II I i I t I A. A L The Novel I Beaded S Cap A Th A r Whose I i. i l Brilliant it tN j Coloring Will I S Make It 0 5 S t r Conspicuous I 1 if This Season who has ever T T gone ne through ngn th the tb path pate ful experience of at seeing a a. a costly fox skin akin degenerating degenerating- Into speedy shabbiness ness nees owing to tho the rubbing of or the soft Bott fur at the sides will m be ready to appreciate ap ap- ap- ap predate to tho the full the new arrangement arrange arrange- ment moat which At one and th the tame same time protects protect the fur and ad ads da to It ifs Ita deco deco- decorative appearance S STILE TUB TIm LITTLE TOE TOB IS IB PASS PASSING ISO American women will have only four r toes on each toot foot in a thousand years from now no because they theT w wear r shoes too small naU for tor thorn them This Thia In m time will pinch the little toe of at each foot toot out of ot existence said Dr Franz Fran Bergman a physician of at Berlin visit visit- ingin the United States to study AmerIcan Amer Amer- ican cart life The great pity of ot the loss of at th the tho little toe will be that the men will have t to suffer sutter for the folly tolly and the vanity of or the women said the doctor It will take generations to bring bring- about bout this change chanCe in the anatomy of the foot toot but It Is coming In fact tact It Is already in progress Philadelphia North Am American can 5 I J I r L t S S 5 S c tr 4 1 I- I S r S mat 4 i i. i Cloak Ie S 4 S. S Y a 1 S l J J S S 1 S i-S S rn Lii y yI I Elsie r Lenin 4 U Gown Show J 4 1 J t tio 1 i i t t 1 f jJ I I t J 4 S l f r I I If r c V A Lucile Evening GOTO I S for fat and Made Famous by bj S Beautiful Lily Elsie |