Show new look Is given to autumn styles by bustle silhouette by CHERIE NICHOLAS pr J 0 raf T xa A g R A 9 ax C 0 W da V a 7 HATS in a name well plenty judging from the consternation and furore the mention of bustle in connection with the new fashions for fall and winter has caused immediately at the mere suggestion of bustles bustled being revived in modern styling came visions of the amusing monstrosities we of this day have come to associate with the has been fashions of the long ago As a matter of fact the bustle motif that has succeeded in giving to contemporary fashions such a decidedly new look is far and away from the antiquated bustle of our ance stresses A more accurate way of expressing the bustle theme as is today is to speak of it as back fullness to achieve which designers are most ingeniously introducing clever drapes bows and peplum effects done in a conserva tive manner the emphasis given to back full ness in current styling has opened avenues of thought to designers in in consequence of which the dresses and coats and jackets shown in the seasons seasons collections have taken on an entirely entirely y different and refreshing note of interest with the I 1 new back fullness the simple black dress that is heralded as a perfect autumn first becomes a model of high style distinction the various treatments of the back fullness theme as den de demonstrate n on strat ed in the illustration conveys the message that there are back full nesses and back being interpreted throughout the mode w with ith not necessarily any two being alike see the afternoon dress of voguish velveteen shown to the left in the picture it shows clever manipulation via the peplum method the spectator sports dress centered in the group of lightweight woolen modifies its peplum fullness to a conservative degree the sheer black afternoon dress to the right has a wide sash technique which arrives at back fullness in most pleasing fashion the hat designed to complement the bustle silhouette of the dress has its own bustle which goes to show that milliners are also subscribing to the bustle theme in the inset a pretty evening formal again illustrates the prevailing idea of bustle effects the bustle is detachable to be worn at will stiff crisp silk taffeta yields beautifully this matter of back fullness is not confined to dress design the new coats have had to be tuned to the bustle ei like e fu fullness ness of the gowns over which they must be worn in consequence many of the smartest coats of the season are styled with that thought in mind some take on fullness at the waistline others are made with lines that flare from neckline to hem at the back dressmaker coats of this type made of fine broadcloth or velvety surfaced woolens rank at the height of fashion with them a separate fur piece is inevitable which is met in the revival of long fur boas and stoles that recall quaint fashions such as our revered grandmothers wore reaction to the new bustle vogue is seen in the revival of stiff handsome silks as they so successfully yield to bouffant drapes and bows released by western newspaper union |