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Show Youth and Grace in Woman's Dress Toor mndntne! Ilavlnpr n hive of the beautiful and a dlsorlniinntine, taste in dross, and beinK fortunate In (lie possession id' n long purse, she Rtlll Is as badly off as Flora McKlimsy, with nothing to wear unless she fins succeeded In retaining that sl'.n tdl-hnuetle. tdl-hnuetle. I'mler the autocratic rule of designers, observes a fashion writer In the New York Times, an Ideal has been ereated and a standard established, estab-lished, and life, as to clot lies, is simple sim-ple for the woman who meets the requirements, re-quirements, thouirh otherwise It Is a problem requiring devoted attention and involving many dillieult ies. It Is as If the whole world of fash-Ion fash-Ion makers had conspired against Hie w vman who is smart, yet not neees- I' ' Maize Silk Etamine Embroidered in Scarlet Floss With Coral Ornament. sarlly slim and eurveless. The most tempting models are for the boyish (Inure, (In-ure, and to plnue'thom further beyond the reach of any other, the original Kroneh models are confined to sizes no larirer (lain "IIS." The saleswoman usually displays this to the timid, almost al-most apologetic customer, as Icing "the very largest size we carry." This applies, of course, to the women wom-en who long's to possess the original and wislies to avoid, if possible the Irksome experience of belli;.' lilted. She of the youthful tlirure, witli fresh s;:in and hair of natural shade, still finds that, unless she has kept iier flLMre 1 and avoirdupois: within bounds, she is "Imrd to fit." and. being a plump Id. 1s distressed to find that the type of frock that was charming on a "per-fpct "per-fpct .'if." looks finite different on her. It Is a sail disillusionment and warranted war-ranted to ruin the best dispositions. To be un-'ylphllke Is handicap enough, but to have arrived at '.he period when one must acknowledge or be reminded that moyen-age stylos are the correct Hiinir for one is to realize, they say, (lie first gray In the otherwise other-wise bright fd;y of a merry world. Tor the woman of fashion w ho has put off this somber day by being Industrl ins In training, the way Is si 111 pleasant and the best and most beautiful things created by Parisian artisls are for tier as long ns she desires them. Hair can be camouflaged, dog collars are 'or telltale necklines, angel sleeves soften (ihdrp angles and many nnother trick may he turned. lint when moyen-age adds silver to the hair and pounds to the figure there Is cause for (lesiilr and (hp question of dress becomes Routoly Important. French Women Reticent. It is something a French woman never admits except to herself. W'tnit-pver W'tnit-pver Is becoming she will wear, and she critically views herself and derides de-rides that Illusion and effect com,- of emphasis of her points of charm and of HtibordliKi I lag, negallvhig. as It were, the marks of the years and the evidences of too much enjoyment of ease. She knows the value of hnvlug hair perfectly i-oiffed and hands and feet Immaculately clad. Those points are called to the attention at-tention of wistful 'Moms by Hie designers de-signers who go Into the psychology of drefs. and II Is Hoy who take the age out of nioyon !ige In their designing. Some of Hie older arlMs, Worth. I'aquln. Iirceoll, liodfetri ma lor hands In (ho art of gowning women -Roomed to have a special ..oh"e In liiia Inipoilanl service, mid lliclr elli'iila ioOl-fd lllwil'S I'll WOli imd M( bee,, in Irmly drefoicd 1'iat the evidence of n:-o was n rt I it Ico !l v ortened ii n I dignUhd. I'.nt lln' i' h -1 not tl'.o standards of in day to met. Judged by her slllioiielle so II be de r'guciir nriv e onion in tlie-o times lire; v.oiir iiinHiin:: she eliootes, and u..ii;lliv i he I- win 1 1 1 , for Annrl- call o.-imeii are I'lndlllltes III lll'ile imd .1 vie I or llo'iii Hie host ilosli'liers of 1 . 1 1 1 j 1 1 i.n.) A 1 1 ' I'll have worked out models (hut will please the fancy and comfort the heart by keeping youth and grace in the llgure. The fashionable woman of a generation genera-tion ago was unaware of the nnhi-tecture nnhi-tecture that reconstructs the llgure to the present model. To summarize, she wore stays, and crinoline, and bones. These belong to the Dark Ages, as far as concerns t he modern woman ; which greatly simplifies Hie task of the modiste who helps (lie nihldle-aged woman to express taste and style In her appearance. The waistline dropped to the point of the hip was the life-saving Innovation. Innova-tion. To that is drawn the I mg V-shaped neck, the gracefully tapered shawl collar, the wide cascading cape, the jabot. The skirt, in slight drapery, is caught usually with a motif of Mowers Mow-ers or jeweled ornament, or a garniture garni-ture that trails in lengthwise line to the bottom of Hie skirt. One-Piece Gown, Real Test. The one-piece gown, the real test, has many variants, the essential of w hich is the coat dress. This, In light or heavy materials, is becoming to every llgure of any proportions. The gown proper is made in a straight model, with a panel, like a full-length waistcoat, whether plain and lilted, or plr.ltvd and held by a belt or girdle. The tunic, which may be three-quarters, three-quarters, seven-eighths or full length, Is one of the most comfortable and entirely en-tirely satisfactory models suitable for older women. The silk jersey tunic for daytime and the headed tunic for evening wear were brought out several years ago. Isolated, single and "extreme" "ex-treme" styles, that took at once. They concealed so much, softened so much and were so altogether slenderizing that they have been developed and diversified di-versified Into every type of tunic possible pos-sible to the designer. Worth, Iteer, Jenny, Molynrux, Cheniit are now giving us one-piece gowns. Jenny, Alice, Bernard, I.oulso-houlanger, I.oulso-houlanger, I'remet, Doeulllet, I 'recoil, to mention special and representative designers, present Interestlr.g variants of the tunic, and Polrot. I.anvln. Jeanne llallee, Doucet, I'atou are among those who illustrate the savins grace of a slight lift of the skirt In draped linos. No preceding season has offered an much Inducement in material for slender slen-der modeling and graceful drapery. The soft silks, crepes, voiles, mnrqul-seite, mnrqul-seite, and nil the shades of weaving in sheer fabrics respond to Hie artistic designs cannlly established for the clientele to whom It matters so vltiliy. Shown in Knitted Wear. All these are successfully illustrated In the knitted goods light, gossamer woolens, silk jersey, mslianara erope eponge. pongee and alpaca. l'lails the tunic of narrow plaiting entire lone, slender panels, and rows of buttons outlining the frock f r mi) V '1 's I 7 Pi i r I . rJ'-'4 w.yi Scml-T.iillcur Designed to Slenderize Silhouette; Built of A:p'1r-a- top to bolloln, liccelll ua lo length and have a slenderizing effort and are somehow younger and more chic tlnin Ihe plainer models. Some of Hie most eehcive tttops III New York are oner I,,,, Iheie ueml-talllellr suits 111 while, whllo iind lilai k or collars In stripes, mid -1 1 1 1 1 j 1 - marked barn. One Hmi Is lil. ed by ultra fashionable women is mi Informal mil lit skirl of w hile ors y. I .;i 1 1 cil ; o eihloloio of crepe, elllblolll-oieil elllblolll-oieil In colored crewels, and Unco-qtllirl'T Unco-qtllirl'T f-voaler eolll of the einy, with deep 'haul collar, large poilels, and naiiow' belt of glace khl. 'I lie o el I 1 1 1 1 lO. loin 111 in; Ihe l nee. Is Ihe answer lo many dillli all Ies In the summer onll'il for moyen ago. It Is soli, supple, yel stl'iiighl, illopplin; wlih IM own welj;hl, and Is worn nn belted. ' I, r beneath, wlolliel It Is plain, killed or Muring, inhln grace lo the llgure and Is llat'eilni: to feel and aril.h'H. |