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Show Woman's World Cottons Steal the Spotlight For Cool-as-a-Breeze Fashions KEEPING cool is the first consideration consid-eration lor summer clothes. The other consideration, which in the past has too often been neglected, neg-lected, is style or smartness. Style is difficult to achieve in a summery dress because no matter how lovely, it can take on the appearance appear-ance of a rumpled, dowdy thing within an hour after you've put it on, simply because the weather takes all the starch out of you and your dress. Because it is difficult to keep cool and at the same time look well-groomed, well-groomed, I'd suggest you concentrate concen-trate on the simpler fashions for summer. Pleats are very nice, but tl.ey're hard to keep well-pressed when the temperature's soaring. Ruffles may look very nice on a blouse for a dressy suit, but they wilt easily when you're perspiring. perspir-ing. All this is said to suggest you consider the choice of a summer afternoon dress carefully. Look at the work of the country's best designers de-signers and you will always see simplicity sim-plicity the basic note, the guiding factor in a dress, suit or coat. Another factor that has an important impor-tant bearing on your style is the fabric you use. You would hardly consider a waffle weave for a ruffled effect, nor would you consider the cool but weighty mesh prints for lots of furbelows on a dress. If you want to look cool and collected, then you'll choose your print and color with a lot of care. Unless you want to appear very gay, don't buy red unless it's relieved re-lieved by plenty of white or neutral. Nor do I suggest you choose a very warm shade, like orange or yellow-orange. yellow-orange. Take your pick from the pale yellow yel-low tints or cool colors like green, blue and violet. Brown and black with touches of white or neutral are also very attractive. White is difficult to keep clean In some sec- i i darts are mighty important in making mak-ing the garment fit you. The neckline neck-line may require more than one or two darts to make, it fit snugly. The darts at the waistline may have to be a little smaller than shown in the pattern. Perhaps the underarm darts should be just a little deeper to give you good line. All of these little things can be determined by basting first, then fitting. A recent bit of news suggested that we women were spreading across the hips much more since the war than our designers anticipated. antici-pated. And, they tell us, that does not apply only to the older women, but to the teen-aged youngsters as wpll.' Because the skirt fit is so important impor-tant it's a good idea to baste the entire skirt in place before attempting attempt-ing any sewing. Slip the garment on, and if the seam allowance has been too generous, you can always let it out. If the garment is too snug, it may be necessary to place panels at the sides to give more room. At any rate, it's better to know"just what the score is before you put in those hard-to-rip stitches. Don't feel that just because you're sewing on cotton that you can afford to be careless. Whereas cotton cot-ton used to be an Inexpensive material mate-rial before the war, it is anything but that now. A good piece of material mate-rial deserves just as good treatment as you can give it. lj you have dress-length material. . . . tions of the country, but it is cool to wear, and particularly nice for dress-up. Cut Your Pattern With Architect's Precision Remember there's nothing hard about any part of sewing if you work as a professional. Naturally this will permit no slip-shod cutting or careless fitting. If you are working very carefully and with fabric which is quite expensive, ex-pensive, it may be best to cut and fit your pattern of Inexpensive unbleached un-bleached muslin. This can be run together on a machine with long stitches just well enough to hold it through a good fitting, and then ripped and used as the pattern. The easiest way of keeping the material from which you are cutting cut-ting in a straight line and even fold is to ta?k it lightly on your working work-ing table. Clerks try to keep material mate-rial straight when they cut it for you, but some fabrics are so slippery, slip-pery, this is impossible. It is better bet-ter to take a little time to get it in hl&tu ShaMlo - H Kl MUlH 1 w Make a pretty afternoon frock. line, "to Me straight" before cutting than to have a dress that does not set well. The little notches on your pattern which are designed as tucks and |