Show ARMS W aft am p n I 1 1 p 01 11 ak t A T M ga women do H heavy eavy work in cyprus prepared by the national Was hInston D 0 lying almost at the CYPRUS northeast corner of the mediterranean sa once farned famed for or the copper which hears its name ns as an island steppingstone stepping stone and exchange center tor for ancient civilizations t the traveler if ho he takes the barren ride from the port of Larn harnaka alka to the c altal nicosia through a chalky wilderness Is likely to jump to the conclusion that cyprus Is drab and wholly uninteresting but half balf ort ori cyprus veils her charms modestly masking her beauty in remote mountain valleys and along the northern shore where no steamer stops except for carob beans destined as provender for spanish cavalry horses the best way to reach cyprus Is to steam from beirut into the sun pun set eel glow and dock at dawn in fama gusta harbor beside Ot hellos tower where chero the dark skinned moor in flamed by lago smothered his desdemona once Fam agusta rich and wicked had a church or chapel for very every e day in the year it Is a graveyard of old churches now some sunk in ruin one or two still used to house the glittering panoply of worship one changed into a mosque starkly simple as a prison cell but with a mecca alecca ward pointing the soul to paradise the walls of Farn agusta are massive and high with monts cut from the native rock on which the tas has rise ana aa with gun pl platforms adfor nis or caval cavallars cavaliers cava liers lers overlooking them from within at the lunil land gate there was an almost unique ravel ln or out works wark which was useless and tit at another corner the masterly ma ina sterly martinengo bastion which was merely futile looking northward one sees the site alte of salamis Sala rols six nilles ailles away when ichen paul and barnabas landed in cyprus salamis was a roman capital little by little lis its various forums find and market place are being rescued from the drifting sands sanda gunj an viper infested brush brash salamis m enthusiasts would gladly use its ita byzantine name con stantin stant la for it la Is disconcerting while trying to hang a splendid past onto a lot of sadly fallen columns to have visitors exclaim that they have hare always wanted to see the site of the battle of salamis Sala which occurred COO miles awaul great treeless plain from salamis westward to the he american copper ore ducks docks ni at kara vo there stretches the great kibat treeless plain of the with however a miniature forest at syn crabl und and or orchards charas surrounding many of the he villages at places as around this plain Is rich wl with th waving grain or dotted with golden threshing floors where the driver sits in nn an easy chair atop the ox drawn thresh ing sledge elsewhere rock strata toward the sky disen agriculture but rare Is the view alep in ili which some laaden footed Is not dragging a plow along the north run the kyrenda mountains which one labels mere hills until he fie tins ins climbed to buffa vento castle or to st larion and looked down with awe on plain and sed sea strung out in a well defined and craggy ridge they guard the pleasant northern slope from the central plain strong sea winds sweeping south blow tho the trees treen lopsided toward the jillis hills south of the Mesa orla are massed the mountains that culminate la in Tro odos oa the cypriote olympus cutting the northern fact face of that mass are neighborly valleys traversed sed by shrunken ten streams the ahe most charm ing bit bite of the whole island north of salami Sala rals one of the he prominent fic barches parches relies Is occupied by kantala castle baque the fl hundred undred chambers the uen men of cyprus here a distinctive tive costume a straw lint hat with a mushroom brim a plain shirt sometimes with a jacket voluminous turkish trousers whose seats are tucked tacked into their belts for cross country walking and heavy leather boots with their tops turned do down wn and tied above the cat calf the women do little to keep olive the aphrodite tradition one of their I 1 sex ot of atheni them they are rarely pretty gr even good inching oW ng being 1 i 4 ia heavy of feature and clumsy of form forin and their voices are harsh und and shrill but how could any woman be beautiful who works from sunrise till dark for a few plasters a day kyrenda a resort place in spring the prize resort of cy cyprus Is kyrenda Kyr enla almost overhanging over liang ing the town st hilarion Hll Hil arlon astle castle of gros eros clings to a crude crag beyond the horseshoe harbor miniature of corsican bashlas Rust Bast las there Is tho the golden mass of korenta castle dwarfing dwar fing the white and opal town set on a green slope between gray mountains and blue sea across the waters to io the north the snowy heights of the tha taurus hung like clouds lt people come to korenta to see the castles the monastery and the pleasant slopes planted with grain and dotted with olive dive and carob trees they remain until the canth s are old stories the phoenician rock cuttings have lost their first mysterious challenge and the harbor has bus become a mere incident the climb to st SL ni larton begins through green grain nelds fields passes under dusty olive and shiny heaven sent carob trees whose sweetish dark brrown brown pods poda the prodigal son would fain have eaten zigzags toward a rusty cliff tops the pass behind lind and comes to the plain from which rises the rock pedestal for this romantic ruin but when one has scrambled among the evergreens ever greens whose roots are splitting medieval battlements apart the roma romantic I 1 antic castle high and inaccessible liar lias disappeared and ali there re are only some decrepit walls forgotten for gotton by the titans who tossed them there bella pulse false abbey a mere picnic jaunt from kyrenda Ky renta Is the finest ruin in cyprus the cloisters from j whose graceful archways arch ways vandals havo have torn away stone breres tr eres ies are still beautiful the refectory with its swallow nest wall from which ewh lectors electors once droned dronek to eating monks ap la almost intact the abbey stands tit in a pleasant hillside town bowered in fruit trees lovely views from bella patse the best view Is from a hill to the northwest to the left there Is the gently sloping plain verdant with crops and dotted with trees with a jade strip ot of sea making lace on brown rocks undecided as to whether to ally itself to the deep blue of the sea ca or to the varied greens of the countryside where the slope becomes steeper there it an idyllic vil all lage with milk white minareta mina spearing up thron through gli the dark foliage to the right tile gray mountain overhangs steep slopes up which the vl village alling ling lias fins pushed ua its lemon and orange trees its mulberries and par gar dens the lower bulwark of the town in its way ns as the mountain itself Is this thin massive goldbrown gold brown ruin whose reta retaining inin wall rises like n precipice of hand worked stone above the fertile fields america owes its incomparable collections of cypriote lote art to chesnola Ce snola who lived at a time when nn an american consul could deff the turks and boast of outwitting them ills ilia hook book makes spicy rending reading in ili these days in ili the widespread site of Lain housa to the west of korenta Kyr Ky enla renta another famous treasure was found smuggled out of the island and sold by y tin an armenian to 10 the late J T pierpont nt morgan for a sum that still calces cypriote lote mouths water for treasures found one third of the he intrinsic value goes to the finder one third to the owner of the land and a third to the government amid atie tie debris of rises a monolithic clistil of obscure origin said by natives to be a venus temple tempie n hole in the floor door Is explained us as the tomb of a priest of aphrodite A stones diiro away Is the monastery mafie imade without hands dropped full grown from haave i La owes its green freshness t to 0 a perennial stream which emerges from a barred cavern in the mountain side in Ln the current price of huge juicy lemons Is tor for a shilling shifting the juice Is expressed bottled widimir sugar and kept for a year or two without ter fermenting it malea a roost most refresh ing drink but bu tit at 18 for n cent lemons are hardly worth picking ant and file lie ground la Is often covered with lui deeny inz brull 4 any L |